On Cars, Bikes, and Following Your Genius 車、自転車、直感を従うことには

Update from the future: Just to give you a preview of what is in this very long post: I am basically writing about my decision to stop using my car that I eventually did sell, and how I came to the decision. That’s basically it. If you’re looking for funny stories about farting and misspoken Japanese they’re not in this one. If you’re looking for quotes from transcendentalists and a dissertation on the advantages of bikes over cars, look no further.

Alright gang. We’re back.

I know, I know. It’s only been a week! Steven, you just wrote such a doozy, and now you’re coming right back around and giving us another other one, not a week later?

And to that I say, you bet your sweet bungus I am!

I’ve got things to tell you! And like I said, “A squid won’t cook itself,” well neither will a blog post write itself, and these things must be written, lest the moment pass, and they are forever gone. I believe, this is true with ideas, that with all ideas there is a certain window of action, that you have where you can seize an idea, and do something with it, make something out of it, or let it pass, and its moment will be gone. And perhaps you will have another chance at it, or perhaps not. This idea, the one I want to share with you now, is a fruit that has been maturing for some time, and I think it is now as ripe as it will ever be, and the time is as good as any to pluck it. So sit back, get comfortable, maybe grab a snack, some nice squid hearts, maybe a squid soufflé (I actually don’t know what a soufflé even is) and let me tell you about my little experiment in following my genius, and deciding to live life without a car.

The first thing I need to get at is the following your genius thing. I am not a genius, but I can follow it, and that is why I decided to stop driving my car for the month of March. Motorless March, I called it. I actually almost sold it, and even went to the length of calling up my dealer, taking it in to him, having him look it over, and then coming to his question, “Do you really want to sell this? Do you really really want to sell this?” and promising him that I’d really think it over, and after two of my close friends recommended that I try out a carless month first, and see how it goes, as a trial experiment, before fully plunging myself into the world of the no-car, only to find that it does not suit me all that much, and I am pained to go through the process of getting a new one, or to suffer with the ramifications of my poor and impulsive decision. But, while I did at their suggestion hold onto my car, prior to starting this experiment, I strongly suspected that I already knew what the outcome would be, and here we are, at the end of the month, and I can say that I was entirely correct in my suspicion. After an entire month without my car, I can say that not once, not a single time, did I think, “Man, I wish I could drive!” But what I did find myself thinking, time and time again, was the exact opposite, that I was glad that I didn’t have one. And so I will give you some examples, but you have already seen some, if you read my last post. On embarking on this experiment, somehow I had not even considered all of the merits of my decision to ditch the car and walk to school, but that came to me as I was writing that last post, and is even further support for the case of going without the car. So, I will give you some concrete examples, and what I’ve learned from this experiment, and the goals of this post then are two-fold – if this can be a lesson for you on following your genius, or a piece that challenges you to see your car in a new light, then I think I can say that this was a successful one!

First, on following your genius. I have mentioned genius a few times now, and what am I talking about? I am using genius in the way that our man Henry David Thoreau uses genius. I usually end my posts with quotes, but for this one, I need to give you a quote now, because this quote, primarily, along with some of Thoreau’s other compelling words on genius, was the catalyst, that brought me to cross that critical threshold between thought and action. So here is the quote:

“If one listens to the faintest but constant suggestions of his genius, which are certainly true, he sees not to what extremes, or even insanity, it may lead him; and yet that way, as he grows more resolute and faithful, his road lies. The faintest assured objection which one healthy man feels will at length prevail over the arguments and customs of mankind. No one ever followed his genius till it misled him. Though the result were bodily weakness, yet perhaps no one can say that the consequences were to be regretted, for there were a life in conformity to higher principles. If the day and the night are such that you greet them with joy, and life emits a fragrance like flowers and sweet-scented herbs, is more elastic, more starry, more immortal, – that is your success. All nature is your congratulation, and you have cause momentarily to bless yourself. The greatest gains and values are farthest from being appreciated. We easily come to doubt if they exist. We soon forget them. They are the highest reality. Perhaps the facts most astounding and most real are never communicated by man to man. The true harvest of my daily life is somewhat as intangible and indescribable as the tints of morning or evening. It is a little star-dust caught, a segment of the rainbow which I have clutched.”

It’s long, I know. Thoreau writes like this. Emerson does as well. Perhaps that’s why I am so enamored with them both. Thoreau is a man who catches star-dust, who does greet the day and night with joy, who felt bad for his jailers, when he was put into jail, for not paying taxes to the state of Massachusetts for something like seven years, because he did not support slavery, and Massachusetts was profiting off of and enabling the slave trade, at that time, and he felt that his jailers, after imprisoning him, thought that they had him confined – but he could not be confined, because in his heart he was free, much more than they, because while physically confined, spiritually he was as free as a bird. Actually, he thought they, and the state itself, were entirely pathetic, after that incident, as Thoreau was, taxes excepted, as good of or better than any citizen you could ask for, and was not in any way a threat to the state, and yet they imprisoned him. Thoreau lives by his genius, truly; that is one example, and another I could give is the whole fact that he moved out into the woods and lived there alone for two years, because he felt like he should, and he ended up writing the masterpiece, that this quote is from, that is Walden. I included the full length of this quote because I thought that, given that he includes them in the same passage, there must be a link between following genius, and catching star-dust, and when I think about this experiment, and even the outcomes of my walking to school, that there is a connection there.

So like I said, this quote is ultimately what got me to embark on this little carless experiment of mine. It is the reason why I pulled the trigger. About two or three months ago, I did something I had been meaning to do for a long time, and had never got around to, which was actually figured out exactly what my income and expenses were. Prior to this, I just knew that I was making more money than I was losing, and that was good enough for me. But I could only stand saying not being able to answer questions about my life financials so many times before I felt like it was necessary that I got the answers, and so I did, and I found that I was spending about 2万円 a month on car expenses, (about $200). I thought at that time, entirely jokingly, “Hey if I didn’t have a car, I’d save 2万円 a month!” And then this thought was followed by another, “But, of course, I need my car.” I can say now that not only did I not need my car, but in the same way that I was better off walking to school than driving, I am better off living without a car in all other aspects of my life, than having one.

In the days after I did that little, getting my affairs in order business, that thought of getting rid of the car kept coming back to me. I thought about all of the reasons why I needed my car – there weren’t many. I thought about all of the reasons I should give it up – there were many more. Why did I think I needed my car? Convenience, was one. Convenience on its own is hardly a good reason to do anything. Another, was freedom. Paradoxically enough, I found that I had more freedom without the car. That’s really it, in a nutshell. Why did I think I should give it up? This list is much longer. Obviously, for the environment. Also, for the savings. Those are good enough reasons, but there are other, more powerful, and less apparent reasons. I thought that, like walking to school, going without the car would put me outside of my comfort zone. After being here for as long as I have, as anyone inevitably finds themselves becoming after doing the same things for an extended period of time, I have gotten quite comfortable in many aspects of my life. I’m happy I can say that’s so, but if we take Emerson’s words, “People wish to be settled: only as far as they are unsettled is there any hope for them,” to heart, then it’s wise not to get too comfortable, and so I felt that this would be a good way to shake things up, raise the difficulty level on my life a bit, you could say. I will get into this when I talk about public transportation, of which, as a result of ditching the car, I now have many stories. The other of the more subtle reasons, I would say, was that I thought that getting rid of the car would force me to better prioritize my time. Having a car is a luxury, for me, and not a necessity. With it, I could visit my friends in the neighboring towns and cities on a whim, I could make trips to the grocery store, to the mall, to the 100円 store, when I felt like it, and I had many times come away from such trips thinking that they had not been all that necessary. Without a car, acting on impulse suddenly becomes much more difficult, in that sense. And so, the bar, or the activation threshold, for me embarking on any mission, quest, escapade, what have you, was now much higher, and I thought that, and I found that this was true, that it would force me to make better use of my time. And reflecting on it, I find that the same thing is true with my internet usage. I have no internet in my apartment. When I’m lucky, I can connect to my neighbor’s WiFi, but that WiFi is fickle, and will more often than not allow me to connect once a night, only to give me the results of my first search, and then dry up and return no more. When on that tenuous signal, I am aware that at any moment it could vanish forever, and that alone keeps me from attempting most internet activities, but often when I do try them, the internet will teasingly flicker on and off, and I will quickly lose patience with it, slam my laptop shut, and quit whatever I was doing. And this happens, the quitting, because whatever I was doing in the first place, was not all that important. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have tried to do it from my apartment in the first place, where the internet is so unreliable (I say the internet, it’s not even mine. I should say her internet, Nagata sensei’s.) When I really want to use the internet, I will either go visit Nagata sensei, or I will sit outside her apartment on the steps, where I can enjoy free-flowing, uninterrupted internet, and do my business. And I keep my business quick, because I’m most likely sweating, or shivering, with a sore rumpus, from sitting on a step of solid steel and concrete, and craning my neck down to look at the small, dimly lit screen on my lap, and so I am, because of all of these hindrances, efficient with my internet time. Unfortunately, as much as I would wish otherwise, I do have relatively low self-control, and if I had ample internet access I may not even be writing this right now, but would instead be watching English Premier League highlights on YouTube, or searching about how Rogain serves to promote hair growth (for a friend, of course), or something like that; something that I could be doing, but probably don’t need to be. By significantly raising the threshold for the ease of doing something, anything, you have to put in more effort to do it, and the decision to put effort into anything becomes more meaningful the more effort that is required. Thought, as well. Because now with my excursions, like with using the internet, the effort to action threshold has been raised, and I now have to spend a little more thought, and potentially a lot more energy, on whether I want to do something or not, and I think that this has been an incredibly effective way at delineating what in my life is worth my time, and what is not. I have turned down invites that I would have accepted if I had a car, because I didn’t. How interested was I, really, in going then? I have gone through the trouble of taking the time to learn how the busses work, and riding them, to get to the city to play soccer with some friends. That then, was clearly important to me. But not only has it forced me to weigh more considerately what is important to me, and what is not, but it has also forced me to plan out and be more efficient with my time. Before, I would go to the mega-superstore Trial. Trial is up on a hill and is out of the way for me. Because of the fact that it’s up on the hill, and I can’t even bike up that hill, in this entire month I’ve only gone to Trial once. Instead, I stop by Direx, as I pass there on the way back from Ozu High. I’d rather go to Trial, yes, and especially because Trial has my soba, and Direx doesn’t, and I’m actually pissed at Direx, because the last three times I’ve been there they haven’t had my soba, and I’m worried that they don’t even carry it anymore, and I’ve wanted to grab one of the store workers and say, “Hey, don’t you guys know that people like soba! You’re going to lose people’s business! Order more soba!” But even in my soba-rage, I can’t dump Direx, because it now just makes good sense for me to stop there. It is the most economical and efficient thing for me to do. Another point – I wanted to go to Kaldi, at the mall Hikari no mori. This is about a fifteen to twenty minute drive to the west. With a car, I would have gone. I wanted to get my natural peanut butter, which is way better than unnatural peanut butter (isn’t it weird to say that? But if what I get is natural, what else is the other kind but unnatural?) and my muesli (how do you pronounce this word?). Now it is an ordeal, and I had been mulling over when I would make the bike trip out there, when I was struck with the brilliant idea to ask Goto sensei, who I know lives in the Hikari no mori area, and frequents the mall, if she wouldn’t mind picking those things up for me the next time she goes, and I’d pay her back. And so, last weekend, after waiting a week, I got that sweet sweet Line message, “I’m at Kaldi!” And then I had my natural peanut butter and muesli, and I didn’t even have to go to the store. And when I say that paradoxically, I had more freedom as a result of my decision to ditch the car, this is partly why. While could be seen as now an increased reliance on others, I see it as a forced, economical restructuring of how I go about my business, and that restructuring has resulted in me coming away with more time, and less distraction. I can and will rope decision making fatigue into this, because why not – I’m even saving myself from having to make such decisions, about whether I should go to this or that store, to this or that event, to do this or that thing, as anything that I could, or would only do with a car, is immediately ruled out, and I consider it no more. You would think that because I don’t have a car, it takes me longer to get places, and so I would spend more time in transit, and would come out of this all with less time, but I have actually come out ahead, through virtue of the increased effort to action threshold (I keep calling it this and other things, I am not sure exactly what I should say here is, I keep thinking back to the concept of activation energy, in chemistry, which is the amount of energy that has to be supplied in order to make a reaction occur, and in this analogy, my action is the reaction, and the energy required to take the action consists of whatever might factor into the taking of the action, for example cost, time, benefits, etc.), and the fact that when I travel now, it is an experience, and so is never time wasted. That is another major point to be made about this, but I feel like I’ve mostly already made it in my last post, when talking about all of the beautiful things I get to do and see on my walk to Shoyo, that I don’t get from the drive. Whenever I go anywhere now, I go by either train, bus, bike, foot, or another’s car, and in any of those save the bike, I am not required to do anything but confirm every now and again that I’m still headed the right way, and then I can go back to fully engaging my senses in whatever capacity I like. In driving, you are a pilot, and while you can daydream, and sightsee, and enjoy the radio, or have a conversation, you can’t commit yourself to any of these things fully. On a bike, you do have to pilot, but that’s different than riding a car – that’s more sport than work. Riding a bike is exhilarating, especially in Ozu, where there is almost no level ground, where the roads are so narrow that you are almost crushed to the wall by passing cards, where the maze of cracked sidewalks and side-streets and street signs keeps you weaving, dodging, ducking, panting, coasting, endlessly engaged. And another perk about the bike is that you’re almost always in motion, and when you’re not, it’s simply a nice reprieve. Highways? You pass under them. Crosswalks? People stop for you. Traffic lights? Button you push, and turn green they will. (That’s a Yoda quote. It could be at least. I wonder if I thought to write that sentence that way because Yoda is green. The human brain is a mysterious thing..) When you finally do just have to sit it out at a light, you’re about ready for a break anyways. And the bike is the other reason why giving up the car brings more freedom. On the bike, you are truly free. You do still have to find a place to put your bike, that’s true – but bikes are much smaller than cars. I biked right into the heart of the city just yesterday, right into the heart of what they call the machi, the network of narrow streets, tiny stores, a densely crowded spot – I biked right up to the street that had the two stores I wanted to visit, and I leaned my bike up against a wall, and I stepped out onto the street, no worry about finding a place to park my cumbersome car, and at no expense. And on the way there, I passed car after car after car, stuck in waiting, mired in limbo, and I would fly right on by, with the sun in my face, with the wind rustling my shirt, with my heart pumping, and a medium grade sweat on my shins, because I wore thick sweatpants, and it was way hotter than I thought it’d be. As I passed them, I couldn’t help but think with smug satisfaction, “Suckers!!”

One thing about the car – the car keeps things out, but it also keeps you in. It insulates you, and that’s alright, when you need to be – but how often do we need to be? I’d rather be thrown out into the chaos of the world than snugly shielded from it. (Typed while sitting in a comfortable chair, at a comfortable desk, in a comfortable apartment, at a comfortable temperature, in some comfortable sweatpants..) But you get what I mean. I don’t want to be snug all the time; there’s not a lot to be learned in being snug – I want some action. When I made the decision to start biking, I knew I would have to be biking in the rain. This was something that would often come up when someone tried to suggest to me the folly of selling my car. “What about the rain?” They would say. Well, what about the rain? That would be a problem, if we weren’t living in the 21st century, and didn’t have such beautiful products as entirely waterproof synthetic body suits, but we do. This is what you see the students, the bikers, the motorbikers, wearing, in inclement weather, fully shielded from the elements of Earth like astronauts from the elements of space. I took a trip to Handsman, and got myself a similar suit, after trying on several, and deciding which country, of the pack of body-suit-producing, atrocity-committing countries all vying for my yen, I would give it to – and out of China, Myanmar, and Vietnam, I settled on Vietnam, as while they’re communist, I hadn’t yet heard about any recent atrocity committed by the Vietnamese. In this suit then, I am entirely impervious to whatever the wicked winds of Kumamoto want to blow my way, although large balls of hail would still take me out. When we talk about freedom, again, here is another example. As no one, under normal circumstances, naturally wants to be soaked by the rain, we tend to avoid it, and an umbrella helps with that, but you still have to deal with strong winds, if it is windy, and stepping in puddles, and finding a place for your umbrella, and making sure you don’t forget it, and if you do, making difficult decisions about how to get a new one, or waiting for a break in the rain, or biting the bullet and getting drenched in it. When you have a full body waterproof suit, none of this matters. You don your armor, and out you go, and there your worries end. In fact, what would before have been an annoyance, is now a joy, as it is incredibly joyful to walk about in the pouring rain, without a care in the world, to be completely impervious to it, to be able to laugh at it and revel freely in it. That is freedom, and it strikes me in similarity to that feeling I had on top of the mountain, standing there and looking the blizzard in the face, or in the onsen, finding warmth and moisture in the dry cold of winter – it’s a feeling of turning the tables on the elements, taking them head on, embracing them with open arms, defying them; and you can’t help but come away from such encounters with a little more life in you.

I talked about following genius. I had the thought then, coming back to me, that I should stop using my car. I did some pre-experimentation. I knew that the only real thing that could be a pain for me, without the car, was going to my special needs school, which is about a twenty minute drive from my apartment. Before going fully into the no car life, when I was yet still mulling it over, I had a free Sunday, and so I decided to make the trip then, and see how bearable it was, if it was something I could do twice a month, how long it would take, how sweaty I would get. On that trip, something happened, something that I took as a sign, that really affirmed that this was genius that should be followed to its ultimate ends. On the way to this school, I take a road west, for about fifteen minutes, then I turn south, pass through a neighborhood, go a bit down another street, and I reach the school. At that turn, from going west to south, at around that point, there is an enormous hill. This hill is striking in the same way that Mt. Fuji is striking – this hill is a mini-Fuji, because the land all around it is so flat, and clear. I have always wanted to climb this hill, and I look at it longingly whenever I make the trip. That day, as I came back from biking to the school, I thought, why don’t I climb it now? And climbed it was. I met an old man, who showed me the path to the top, I found a secret lake, I walked along ridges and up and down winding trials, leading me who knew where, but I had no place I particularly needed to be, and could lose myself entirely in the exploration. And when I got back, I thought about this. I had passed by that hill so many times in my car, and had always wanted to climb it, and never did; and I pass by it once on my bike, and it gets climbed. What more needs to be said? I think, for me at least, yet another fault of the car is it restricts spontaneity, rather than increases it. Having a car, you have to find a place to park it. You have to put gas in it and think about the gas in it. You have to get into it and step out of it. You have to turn it off and turn it on. You have to open and close the door. And while they sound like little things, I think all such little things, and especially cumulatively, form a barrier to spontaneity. On the bike, rather, you are encouraged to be spontaneous. You’re in motion, you can park almost anywhere, you can hop and off at a moments notice, nothing has to be turned on or off, you are the gas, you are not bound by streets, or even logic. That logic that keeps you bound to the fastest routes, to the most efficient paths planned out by Google Maps, does not apply on a bike, when you can turn down any road you like, on a whim, because it looks promising, where you can slide through back alleys with ease, change course without hesitation, stop at any moment to get your bearings, and readjust your course, or to go ahead and allow yourself to be lost. So, with Thoreau’s words, to follow my genius, and the climbing of the hill, to encourage me to keep following it, I decided that I would take that step, and go from thinking about giving up the car, to doing so.

I have yet to write about any of those moments where I was glad that I hadn’t biked, except with the climbing of the hill. I haven’t given you any specific examples. I haven’t told you about the impact that I’ve had on others, and I think this is always an interesting thing, when you try things like this, when you make these changes, that you will affect not only your own life, but consequently the lives of the people around you, without you intending to do so at all. I find this happening often as a result of being a pescatarian, and it was happening here, is happening here, too. Lewis, who replied, “Indoor human.” when asked if he was an indoor or outdoor human by my friend Kento sensei, told me two days ago that he biked to get groceries; Emily now wants to buy one, and was asking me this week where I bought my bike and how much it cost. But I want to touch once more on the genius bit, because I think you can see clearly that in this instance, for me it was entirely the right decision to follow it; but how did I know it was genius? I think the true skill does not lie so much in carrying out the genius, because once you begin to carry it out, the events and consequences of it will unfold naturally, as a matter of course. The hard part is discerning what is genius, in the first place, and then choosing to act. I can’t say that I have a real answer for knowing what is genius or what is not, what is a good idea, what is a proper intuition, an inspiration, that should be heeded; but somehow, I knew that this was so. That may just be the magic of genius, that it just comes to us, and if we give it the time, and the consideration, and the conviction, to carry it out, seeing not where it would lead us, and crushing it not in its infancy, giving it fuel, allowing it to light, instead of smothering it out of fear, uncertainty, comfort, laziness, or one of the many other such extinguishers, then it can have the power to take us to new heights, to expand and enrich our lives. All it may take is the simple asking of the question – what is your genius saying to you now? And that may be what gets you on, and if you don’t have an answer, then what will get you on the hunt.

I could say more about my dabbles in public transportation, about the fear in the eyes of the girl sitting behind me on the bus, when I turned around in my seat and started speaking to her, to try and ask her if I had missed my stop or not, and how I had in fact missed my stop, as I discovered as I got off of the bus at the end of the route, at the main transport hub in the city, about how I tried to get on a fancy express train and was politely told to get off, as I didn’t have a ticket, and hadn’t reserved a seat.. but I think I’ve more or less made my point, with one final addition. I mentioned that there were many situations in where I found myself glad that I hadn’t used a car, and none where I wish I had, and here’s one of them. I had been regularly playing soccer with some college students at a college in the city, (Kumamoto city, I realize I keep saying “the city”, and you might be thinking, what city, Steven? What city?) and the school year has ended, and they’ve all graduated. We had our last session, of soccer, sushi, then Fifa (they all wanted to play me, I think I played seven games of Fifa then, nonstop, more tiring than the actual soccer) and then a final going out to dinner. And if I had driven a car, we would have said our final goodbye there. But I hadn’t driven a car – that day, like the last time, I had come into the city by bus (unlike last time, successfully), and for this reason, they gave me a ride home that night. I ended up giving them a tour of my apartment, re-gifting almost all of the alcohol that I had stockpiled through various adventures onto them, talking about our futures, and otherwise having a real, proper, final goodbye. Not that it wouldn’t have been if we had ended things there, in that restaurant parking lot, after the dinner – but it would have been different. It just would have been a different ending, the car ending, and I thought about this too, in the passing days, about how that was yet another situation, that turned out for the better, through not having the car. This, then, would be an example of something that I could not see, when deliberating over whether I should or should not pursue this genius, and I think this is prime example of how, when following your genius, things will happen that you could not have predicted.

Well, I think we’re at the end here. This engine is out of steam! I hope that I’ve convinced you to follow your genius – I will keep following mine. You might be wondering, what will be the end of this car saga? I do still have the car. I think it would be at the dealer’s now if I hadn’t been told that I may be going to Aso to teach again, and if that happens, I then will be forced to own, and use it, out of necessity. But the lessons have been learned, and cannot be unlearned, and even if I go back to a life with a car, it will never be the same.

Update: I’m coming back to this after two days. I wanted the instant gratification, but I thought it’d be better for both of us if I gave it some time to sit and see if any more thoughts popped into my mind afterwards, to be added in. About the car, there isn’t much. I think another interesting point about it is that there was some resistance to this idea, some questioning of it, some “Why would make life harder for yourself?” “What if you regret it?” “Please don’t do it!” and I am glad I ran this idea by my friends because they 1. gave me the idea to do a trial run of the no car life, instead of outright selling it, and 2. they showed me that my idea was solid enough, as I was forced considered the merit of their concerns or arguments related to it, on top of my own, and after that, I still ended up following through. So, even if your genius is met with resistance, and perhaps it always will be, don’t let that stop it!

I want to add one more thing to this post, because in this post I’m trying to share a little insight I feel I’ve had recently, about the following your intuition to good ends, and here I have another small insight, or lesson, that I’ve learned, and don’t know where else I’ll put it, and so here it is. Do you know about the dongle? That little white piece of metal and plastic, that can connect two differing types of ports? My dongle was an AUX to whatever that small charging hole in the iPhone 6 or 7 is called. It’s about an inch long. Well, everyone knows that dongle is a piece of garbage. Such a thing really has no right to exist, but exist it does. It is an incredibly inferior product, by design, being so bendable, and thus vulnerable – but I think it is also probably just made with the lowest possible quality ingredients imaginable, so that it will break as soon as possible, and you will be forced to either waste your money on a new one, or finally out of frustration upgrade your headphones to ones that are not AUX, and match the new port. Until they switch the port on you again, and then you have to get yet another pair of headphones. Soon the port may be a thing of the past, with wireless charging and headphones, so that might not be a concern.. but that doesn’t matter to me at the moment, because I have a pair of headphones, I’ve had a pair of headphones for about 6 years now, and they are an incredible pair of headphones, and I don’t want to stop using them, and so I buy dongles, to connect them to my phone, and after buying the third dongle, I will never buy another dongle again. But the lesson is that, I should never have bought the second dongle, let alone the third, because I knew that they would break, and the problem would never really be solved this way. I complained about the weakness of dongles, as I searched for my third, a few weeks ago, about how stupid it all was, but yet I wanted it now, because I wanted to have my music, and I didn’t want to do the work to find any other way to solve this problem. After my second or third run with my new dongle, after making it about a hundred steps from my apartment, my headphones were filled with a hellish, grating, metallic screaming, the sounds a robot might make in its death throes, and I knew that it was done, and the fact that I was an idiot, confirmed. Putting band-aids over a deep wound will not help it close – at some point, you need stitches. Every time I bought a new dongle, I was just buying a band-aid, and not stitches. This was a poor temporary solution to a problem – it was never a permanent fix. And why bother with temporary solutions, if they will only cost you more time and energy in the long run? If you have a problem, and you have to choose between temporary and permanent solution, unless for the time being you have to choose the temporary, to get to the permanent, then never choose the temporary. That is the lesson I learned from this dongle business, and I’m thinking I might just tape it to my wall, next to my notice that I had gotten a package, that was being held for me by a local shipping company, that I procrastinated on, until one day I finally made the call, and was told, “Huh? That was a month ago. We sent that back.” I will always wonder what was in that package. That slip is a reminder to me, not to procrastinate, and especially not on the receiving of packages, and my dongle will be another reminder.

And now, we are officially finished! Will you ditch your car? Will you follow your genius? I don’t think I mentioned it, but the train line, that goes all the way from the west to the east end of Kyushu, is about a ten minute walk from my apartment, and the bus stop that goes into the city is about a two minute walk. That, with the bike, and having friends, made it significantly less daunting to go completely no car. But, even if you couldn’t go all in, any time you could trade your car in for the bike, or the walk, give it a try, and you might find that you benefit as much as I did.

So.. As they say in the Looney Toons, “That’s all folks!”

じゃあーまた!

“Do you eat squid?” 「イカ、食べられますか?」

My friends.

I hope you are living your best life, and if you’re not, I hope you’re working your way towards it.

I feel obligated to start this post with an apology. I’m sorry. I know that we had a good thing going, some consistency, in the length of my posts. This is why I’m apologizing, because now I’ve gone and written one that is about three times longer. Prior to this, every post had been created in a single, heroic, instantaneous outpouring of spirit – but not this one. As I sat down to write this, time passed, the hour drew late, and I realized that finishing this story in a single sitting would just not be possible. And this distressed me, somewhat. Up until this point, I have never left anything to be come back to and continued the next day, or in a few days, let alone had a work that was pieced together over the span of several sessions, and I think up until this point I had avoided doing this for two reasons, the first being that I was afraid I would lose some consistency, that I would come back to the story having a different feeling or having no idea how to pick it back up again, to find those past threads of thought and start weaving them once more; and the second, that I am a sucker for instant gratification, which is what you get when you start, and complete, something in a single interval of time. I thought about these things, when I realized that this post was going to take more than a single day to complete. At the end of the first day of working on this, I had to end the day knowing that I had not yet finished, and had yet more work to do, and I didn’t like it – but the next day, as I was walking through the school parking lot, J.R.R. Tolkien came to mind, and how he spent a total of seventeen years working on The Lord of the Rings, and I thought, you know, if he can do that.. I can probably spend a few days working on a single post. And there was no other way to do it, as this story just didn’t want to be told in fewer words, and I would not forcibly restrain it. I had also written this one again by hand, meaning it is fully-baked, and so I couldn’t see how long it would be, and am surprised that it’s come out to the length it has (I measure the length by the time WordPress tells me it takes to read my posts). Up until now, they’ve all been at around 15 minutes, and this one’s coming out to 35. And that’s why I’m apologizing! Because I’ve gotten you used to the short and sweet, and am now setting this beast of a post before you, and asking you to read it all. Well, I’m not really asking. You don’t have to read anything I write, obviously, you’re all here by choice. But I want you to feel good about the choice you’ve made, and so I hope you do enjoy it, as long as it is. And I recognize that every word I type in this preface is serving to make an already long story even longer, and so I’ll shut up now, and let you get started..


In the last post, I told you that I had another story for you. About another food that starts with an s. I told you that it was squid. I am not going to do to you what I did with the bowl story, which was to tell you that I had a bowl story, and that I’d tell it to you soon, tell you that it was coming, and to keep putting it off, letting it hang, promising, next time, next time, before eventually conceding that next time was a lie to you and me, and that we both needed to accept that it would be told at an undetermined point in the future, and leave it at that. No, I won’t do that again. That was just as annoying for me as it probably was for you, because I knew that I had made a promise, and the burden of fulfilling it, and the acute awareness that it had not yet been fulfilled, and that each of my subsequent promises became hollower, and flimsier, and the thought of the bowl story started to fill my thoughts, hanging over me and haunting me with visions of an actual bowl over my head.. I won’t make the same mistake. You get the squid story here and now.


It’s also just better to tell it now, while it’s still fresh. In that way, the eating of a squid, and the story about the eating of a squid, are not so different. So, the squid story.. where do we start?

I guess we start with the day. It was Friday. Last Friday. At the time of me writing this, it was last Friday. At the time of typing, it was last last Friday, and incredibly enough, at the time of me posting, it was now last last last Friday. At the time of you reading, it could have been any number of Fridays ago. And none of that really changes anything, does it? I’ll still say it. Friday is a Shoyo day (Shoyo High School), and that means I walk. It takes all but seven minutes to walk to Shoyo High School. On the way there, I go uphill. On the way back, I go down. I make a total of three turns, on this walk, the third being the turn onto Shoyo school grounds. It’s an easy walk. You might imagine, then, that there would not be any need to drive there, and you’re right – yet, for probably the first year of my ALT career, I drove to Shoyo High School. Why? One, I guess, is because I could. When you have a car, you drive places. That’s just how that works. Two, and this was more of an excuse to justify not walking over anything else, is that, on that uphill walk to Shoyo, there are about fifty to one-hundred students, a small student army, marching rank and file along that road; pilgrims making their daily pilgrimage to their temple of learning. By giving up the car, you must become a pilgrim, a priest among the pilgrims. This reason is sufficient to keep at least one of the Shoyo teachers living in my apartment complex, Nagata sensei, and perhaps all, from making the walk to school. “I’d have to walk with the students!” She tells me. There are three other Shoyo teachers in the complex, and, whatever their reasons are, they don’t walk either. I have a fantasy, a mental image that I think would be pretty funny if we played it out, that at least once, one morning, we all met up outside of the building, said, “Morning. You guys ready?” And we all made the pilgrimage together. It would be a spectacle, absolutely. I think we would also build some nice camaraderie. Anyways, horde of students be damned, I started walking, after I had the thought, “Why the hell do I drive?” And it turned out that the decision that thought inspired, the decision to walk, was one of my great decisions. Some dominoes, when you push them over, will knock over one, or a few, maybe a handful of dominoes, as a consequence – and some dominoes will activate Rue-Goldberg machines. This domino was the latter, for the number of interesting things that have happened as a result of my decision to ditch the car were as many as that of taking that first step in the Rue-Goldberg sequence.

Off the top of my head, here’s what I can list. When teachers would ask me how I come to school, a popular question back in the day, I’d tell them, “I walk!” And they would always reply, “You’re so healthy!” This, paired with the fact that I’m munching on a steady diet of nuts, seeds, and raw fruits and vegetables throughout the school day, leads them to think that I am healthy person, and possibly the kin of some small furry mammal or bird. Of course, giving my fellow senseis the impression that I am the epitome of health is great. It is, however, a relatively trivial thing, compared to the number of incredible bug-related discoveries I have made along this walk. You would think that over the course of a seven minute walk through a semi-rural Japanese suburb, there could not be all that many incredible insect-related discoveries to be made; but you would be wrong. On this walk, for example, I saw my first ever ゴマダラカミキリ, that is, a gomadarakamikiri, named after the large white spots that pepper its black back, resembling goma seeds. I saw this enormous black and blue beauty, clambering up one of the tall, thick blades of grass in an undeveloped lot in my neighborhood. The moment I laid eyes on it I froze, whispered “Oh my god..” softly to myself, and ran back to my apartment to get my camera (my good camera – of course I took some precautionary shots with the trusty iPhone). And upon returning, and not seeing it, I was nearly frantic, until at the last moment spotting it trudging around down in the thick bases of the blades. I was a bit late for work that day, but I made up for it by enthusiastically showing anyone who made the mistake of showing me any shimmer of curiosity, any flash of interest in me or my camera that day. “Sensei, I’m so glad you’re here, you’ve got to see this, you must see what I found this morning.” To which the responses were, “Good Steven sensei, good!” (Shota Sensei) “Is it a bug? No, I can’t look.” (Nagata sensei) “Ah, it’s ゴマダラ虫ね.” (gomadaramushi,ne) (Hase sensei). And it was because of this sighting, that when I saw that they had one day cut down the grass in the lot, I was aggrieved, and complained to my neighbor, Tamanaga san, “But what about the kamikiri!”
I also saw a スズメガ (su-zu-meh-ga) (I’m writing this in Japanese because I don’t know the English for it), a brown, feathery, fighter-jet-esque moth, adhered to the sheared dirt wall of the hill that the road cut into, blending in sublimely with a smattering of dying leaves and hanging roots (I don’t say perfectly because I did, after all, see it). And I think the only way I had been able to spot it was that I had now had a trained eye, having had taken in several hungry local boys (voracious, fat, orange and yellow spotted black caterpillars, with sharp, switching tails) and being curious about what they would become, and not having the patience or desire to wait until I could see it for myself, looked up their final form. I ended up raising two different types of caterpillars, last year – and that was an experience that helped to get me through the early days of the corona era, and is a story unto itself. There are several other bug experiences I can name – spotting assassin flies, not knowing at all what they were, only that they were big, menacing, and had white butts, and finding a massive ant den, nested in the side of a vertical, stacked rock wall, with the boundary of the den lined with miniature pink and white flower petals. But, bugs sightings and good impressions aside, there was yet another positive to come out of this seemingly small decision to walk, and it was by far the best – joining the pilgrims.


Every morning, then, unable to section myself off, cloak myself in metal and glass, and dash past them, I was now a part of them, a part of it, that procession – coming up and out of my neighborhood, stepping out onto that perpendicular road, and merging into the flow, joining the uphill march. In the beginning, the students were surprised to see me; so much so that some of them would jump up, put a hand to their chest, and cry out, “Oh, びっくり!” (Surprised!) Although, I suspect this was due less to seeing me, and more to hearing English. The girls in particular are slow walkers, shuffling their feet, carrying on conversations, and I like to keep a brisk pace (I’ve got places to be you know, mainly, the school) and so I would often find myself overtaking them, and tossing out a genki, or sometimes not so genki, “Good morning!” which would so often startle them. Again, whether it was the unexpected sight of Steven sensei, at 8 in the morning, or an unexpected hearing of English in the wild, or the fact that they are shuffling their way to school in a sort of half-dazed stupor, driven by instinct like a zombie to new hunting grounds, and are being shocked back into the world – or a combination of all three (this is probably the answer), I don’t know. Some days, that would be the extent of our interaction, the students’ and I’s; but some days, I would find myself falling into stride with one, or two, or three students, and we would walk together, and have a nice conversation. These have been some of the most relaxed conversations that I have been able to have with the average student. They also give me the chance to connect with students who would otherwise have no engagement with me at all. For most of them, that was a welcome opportunity; but my mind is taking me back to a boy who said the words, “Oh no.” as he saw me and realized I would be walking with him, and talking to him, on the way to school that morning. He was unfortunate enough to be the only one around on the way to school then, and so it happened that he became my buddy for the walk, like it or not, and he didn’t, based on the look on his face and the number of times he would say “Oh, oh no..” after I would ask him a question, or really just say anything at all. That conversation was a struggle for him, and I could actually measure how much of a struggle it was, because he had a habit of repeating my questions, or what he thought were my questions, to himself, in Japanese, which I would understand, and think, “Ah, close!” or “Yikes, not even.” But he tried, which is the only real thing I can ask of any of my students, and I saw him visibly relax when we finally reached the school and parted ways.

One of the most interesting conversations (if you can call it that, and I think you can) was just recently, with a girl I will call Translator Girl. Translator Girl was walking ahead of me, as we were going home, walking slowly, on the other side of the street, and as I neared her I could hear that she was singing. She was completely oblivious to my presence, until I was about right across the street from her, when she noticed me, giving a little squeak and an embarrassed giggle, and putting her hand over her face. I thought that was cute, and I crossed the street and asked, “What are you singing?” And she pulled up the song on YouTube and played it, and sang a bit. I said, “It’s a nice song. Why is he singing about a cat?” (The song was called neko (cat), and the only thing I really understood from it was that the singer thought his friend had become a cat) And Translator Girl holds up a hand and says, “Sumimasen,” and proceeds to type out a lengthy explanation into Google Translate. And I’m standing there thinking, you know, this is fine, song lyrics are difficult to explain and she wants to get it right. She finishes, and holds up the phone, I read it, nod and say, “Oh, ok!” And then I ask another question. And she again says, “Ah, sumimasen,” in a very soft voice, and goes back to the phone. It was the third time she turned to Google Translate that it dawned on me – I was not going to hear this girl speak any words to me other than sumimasen. And so, from that point, until we got to my apartment, as she was walking to her complex just a bit deeper into the neighborhood past mine, we carried on a conversation in this way. Together, taking a few steps, me, asking a question, us, stopping, her, typing out her response into Translate, holding up the phone, me reading it, acknowledging that I’d read it and understood, and us, taking a few more steps. When we finally reached my apartment, I said, “Well, this is my apartment!” We stop, and I wait for her to type out her goodbye. She holds up the phone, and it reads, “Sorry, I’m shy.” And the final message, “But I really enjoyed walking with you today.” Flash forward to the next week. You would not expect a girl who cannot carry a one-on-one conversation (verbally) with her ALT on a walk home from school to be his ally in the classroom, but she was. That week, I had class with 1-4, the fourth class of first years. A difficult class, unresponsive, apathetic, one of the (fortunately) very few classes I have where trying to get them to answer any question or talk to me in any way is like trying to pull teeth; a class where your “Good morning!” Is met with one good morning in response, and the follow up, “How are you today?” with complete silence. When even the customary, conditioned, introductory “How are you today?” is met with silence.. you’re in for a rough time. As the class dragged on, and my 100% answerable, I-know-you-know-the-answer-questions were met with increasingly greater resistance (What is the driving age in Japan? When can you drink alcohol? When can you vote?) there was one girl willing to speak up, and to my surprise, it was Translator Girl. We had bonded on that walk, her and I, and now, in the middle of this unforgiving lesson, she wasn’t going to let it flounder, not too much. She had my back. I was benefitting from that lesson I had learned early on, through my participation in all the different club activities, festivals, and events – good relationships outside of the classroom translate to good relationships inside the classroom. My walks with the students were even inspiring enough to prompt Ms. Shizuku to write, as her comment on a class’s collection of farewell letters to me, “When I met you on my way to school, I was happy.”


The final of the great things that started to happen when I ditched my car, was the fact that I started seeing my neighbors, the Tamanaga clan, much more frequently. I wrote a bit about Tamanaga san before, my first Tamanaga friend, living in the house across the street, posted up on the hill, in front of my apartment complex. He lives there now with his wife. His son, daughter-in-law, and two grandkids, Yuta and Riku, young bucks around the ages of five and seven (I think, I’m not good with kids ages) were all under the same roof, until maybe a year ago, when they had a new house built a little further up the street (you could throw a rock from one house to the other)(or something less dangerous, but still firm enough, like a marshmallow, or a Nerf football). And the household divided, like a cell that has undergone mitosis. Naoko san, the “Momma san” (Japanese people do say this) is often out in the morning, getting ready to take the younger buck, Yuta, to school, at the same time that I leave for Shoyo, so I often pass by them when they’re coming out of the house, or getting into the car. Sometimes I’ll see Yuta sitting in the passenger side car seat, looking down, and I’ll stand in front of the car and wave until he notices me. Sometimes I’ll catch Naoko san and we’ll have a short conversation, and wish each other a good morning, and I’ll tell Yuta to have a good day. All that good neighborly stuff. On the way back, then, I’ll often run into Riku, who will be walking to or from his house or his grandpa’s, Tamanaga san’s, usually wearing that iconic, bright yellow hat that Japanese schoolchildren wear, and I’ll hey, “Hey Riku.” Sometimes he’ll just say hey, and sometimes he’ll tell me a short story, that I either won’t understand, or won’t understand why he’s telling it to me, but I always appreciate it either way. I can understand him a lot better now – I remember our first hangouts, where he would spew forth enthusiastic torrents of totally unintelligible Japanese, and I would turn to Naoko san, or Tamanaga san, and say something along the lines of, “What is this child saying to me?” And they would often respond with, “Wakarimasen.” Even they did not know. I also often bump into Tamanaga san, out and about, and sometimes Tamanaga san Jr, his son. It feels a bit strange to call him Jr, because he’s younger-middle aged and totally built, almost as wide as he is tall. He has the exact same build as his dad, in that way – they’re both solid squares of power. But I don’t know what else to call him, as I don’t know his first name, having forgotten it like almost every other first name that I’ve only been told one time. This was actually causing me some trouble, when I was first getting to know them, because I was calling them all Tamanaga san, and finally Naoko san said to me, when I asked where Tamanaga san was, “Steven, you can’t call us all Tamanga san. It’s confusing. He is Tamanaga san.” And she pointed to Tamanaga senior. I know all the other names, but not the Dad’s, and someday I will learn his too. But for now, he’s Tamanaga Jr. The only member of the Tamanaga squad that I don’t usually see is the Mrs. Tamanaga (Okusan, wife), at least not out in the street. This all means that, on any given day, if I am going to Shoyo that day, there is a very high probability that I will find a Tamanaga on the way. It’s nice to know your neighbors, to be on friendly terms with the people living around you, to know who’s inhabiting these buildings, who’s tending these gardens. It gives the neighborhood some personality. It makes me wonder what it’d be like to live in a small settler town, where everybody knew everybody, where you couldn’t go anywhere without bumping into people you knew, or what it’d be like to live in an old medieval town, taking your goods to the market, passing everyone by. I imagine some of those little interactions would be welcome, and some would be dreaded, but at least you knew who these people were. Compare that to the gargantuan, multistoried apartment complexes, full of hundreds, if not thousands of people, all living in a space of several thousand or hundred thousand square feet, sectioned off into their own little boxes, all, or many of them, strangers. There are many ways of living, many different kinds of human experience. But to get back to it, last Friday (we are now talking about last Friday again, although it was actually two Fridays ago, or depending on when you’re reading this, possibly many Fridays ago, if you care at all) the Wheel of Tamanagas was spun, and this day it landed on Tamanaga Jr.

I told you, the man is thick, a walking slab of muscle, and so it was not surprising to find him that day, walking to Tamanaga san’s place, wearing a T-shirt and shorts, and looking quite comfortable, even though it couldn’t have been more than fifty degrees Fahrenheit out – although it was sunny. I trailed him for a bit, trying to avoid breathing in too much of the smoke coming off of his cigarette, before catching up to him, giving him a nod and a “こんにちは。” He looks up, replies in kind, and then looks back down. Knowing that this is more of an American greeting than a Japanese one, but not knowing how else to initiate a conversation, I followed up with a “Genkidesuka?” (I say this is more of an American greeting than a Japanese one, because it is similar to saying “How are you?” and that’s just not a typical Japanese greeting, although they certainly do say it. A similar point.. Americans often like to end an interaction with “Have a nice day!” And I would often say this, and I still do say it at times. But after I was once met with total confusion by a cashier at a home improvement store, and was laughed at by one of my coworkers, and was told that “Japanese people don’t really say that,” I have learned. My friend tells me though, that, as a foreigner, I can say it and it’s cute – so I still use it.) Tamanaga Jr, to my genkidesuka, while still looking down, replies, “Genki, genki.” It seems that he’s thinking about something, and a moment later, he looks up and over at me, and says to me, “イカ、食べられますか?” “Do you eat squid?” I don’t know why he’s asking me that now, but I do know that I eat squid, and so I say, “Yes, I do eat squid!” To which he replies, “Chotto matte kudasai.” (Wait a minute). He heads back to his house, with me following behind, and invites me in. I’m standing in the entrance space, admiring pictures of the kiddos posing in some traditional Japanese dress, and the most recent of their artistic creations, and soon he comes back, says, “Sorry for making you wait,” and hands me a plastic bag. And this is how I found myself returning from my walk home from Shoyo, that Friday, with a bag containing one squishy, slimy, freshly-caught, football sized squid.

Ok, maybe it wasn’t quite football sized – but it wasn’t much smaller. I actually thought, based on the size and weight, it must have been at least two squids. People often give me things – things that I have to cook, things like daikon, and Roman Broccoli, and bowling ball sized citrus fruits, things that I am immediately intimidated at the sight of and would never buy at the store, and I know the people who give such things to me never realize how stressful it is for me. “Oh you know, you just chop it up, add a little so-and-so, it goes great with so-and-so, just do X for 5 minutes, then some Y for 20, and finish with a little Z, and you’re done! And don’t forget to wrap it in wet paper towel! At least, this is what it sounds like to me, when they’re explaining it, and this is in English. In Japanese.. What? What did you want me to add? What am I supposed to do? And for how long? What is this thing even called? Who even are you? In such situations, nine out of ten times, I will fall back on a tried and true tactic – the re-gift. This is one of the top-tier strategies that I have developed for coping with my life in Japan, and is particularly important if you are living that life as a minimalistic, clean-eating, not-cooking human being. The re-gift is a total win-win-win. The person who gave you the gift is happy, the person you end up re-giving it to is happy, and most importantly, you’re happy. That is, as long as you didn’t have to go to any extraordinary lengths to do the regifting. I tried this strategy out with some wasabi packets I had been coming into. I can’t say it was really regifting, because they weren’t gifts, but rather I had bought them, as they came with the Direx sushi I was fond of buying, along with packets of soy sauce, but those I did use. At first, I never thought anything of it. When I didn’t use a packet, I just would empty it out, clean it, and recycle it. But after doing that a few times, I couldn’t help but feel that it was just wasteful, and that there must be someone in this school who would like to have this wasabi packet – I just had to go through the effort of finding them. I am true to my convictions, and so the next time I had a wasabi packet, instead of washing it down the drain, I took it the teachers, starting with, naturally, the English department. I first tried Goto sensei, my tantoshya, who sits right next to me. If she took it, I wouldn’t even have to stand up to get rid of it. I asked if she wanted some wasabi. She was eating onigiri. (Is not usually paired with wasabi). She declined. “Umm, I don’t really eat wasabi with onigiri.” Then, leaning over, and extending my voice to Kawasaki sensei, at the desk one over from Goto sensei, “Kawasaki sensei, wasabi?” He pulls out a packet of his own. “I’ve already got some, thanks.” I now have to stand. I get up, and walk into the larger office (we’ve separated ourselves as a coronavirus preventative measure). I try Hashimoto sensei. “I’m ok.” Hayashi sensei. “I don’t like wasabi. Too spicy.” Finally, Chestnut Mountain. “I’ve already finished my lunch.” Desperate, and having now exhausted the low-hanging fruit, the English department, I turn over to Sanaoka sensei, the tall guy who didn’t laugh at my Kumamon-falling-off-the-train video, and say, “Sanaoka sensei, how about a wasabi packet?” And he laughs. “No, haha. No, no.” This was significantly more difficult than I imagined it would be, and I was now tempted to consider this a failed endeavor, not worth the time, and that I already tried anyway, and this little wasabi packet was destined for the sink, and subsequently the recycle bin – but then, as I walked my way back across the office, I noticed Fujimoto sensei, and I knew I had found my man. You see, Fujimoto sensei is my kouhai. The kouhai senpai relationship is an integral part of Japanese culture and any school-related Japanese anime. It is complex, and yet, it is simple. Kouhais do what senpais tell them. That simple fact, and the fact that I also hardly ever talk to Fujimoto sensei, meant that the chances of him rejecting my wasabi packet were slim to none, regardless of whether he likes wasabi, is allergic to wasabi, or the food that he was now eating was wasabi friendly or not (it wasn’t). I walked over and up to his side, and announced, “Wasabi for you!” And set the wasabi packet on his desk. He looks down at the packet, and, after taking a moment to realize what is happening, that Steven sensei is at his desk not only talking to him but also giving him a packet of Direx sushi wasabi, he replies, “Oh.. thank you!” And it had been done; the re-gift was a success. This was certainly the greatest length that I’ve ever gone to find a use for something so insignificant, out of principle, and was also the only time that I’ve ever abused the senpai kouhai relationship. After that, I made it much easier on myself – I just set the wasabi packets on Goto sensei’s desk, along with some choice motivational words. “Hey, keep up the good work.” Wasabi. “You’re doing great today.” Wasabi. “You rock.” Wasabi. Realistically, all this really meant was that the wasabi packets were being stockpiled in her desk instead of mine, but that didn’t matter. I had done my job, I had passed the burden, I was now relieved of all the responsibility of ownership that came with that packet. I think that at the time of me writing this, it’s safe to say that there are between four and seven packets of Direx sushi wasabi sitting snugly in the top right corner of her desk, unless she’s thrown them out. And I do think she’s even used one before.
So, what I was getting at here.. when I’m given something, especially something that I don’t want or have no idea what to do with, there is a stress. Tamanaga Jr.’s squid fell into the second category, and on any other day, the acquiring of that squid would have been a crisis for me. That Friday, however, it wasn’t, because of, coincidentally, another mollusk; or rather, a girl with the name of a mollusk, Maimai.


Who is Maimai? Maimai is a friend of my friend Emily, an ALT living in Nishihara, a small village to the south-east of Ozu. Emily and Maimai are best friends, and go on many adventures – in particular, surfing adventures. Being good friends with Emily, it was only a matter of time before I was roped into their adventures, some being fun (camping out on the beach, stuffed toe to head in a tent meant for two, being accused of “manspreading in my sleep”, spending the day being destroyed by giant waves while choking on sea water) – and some not fun (camping out on the beach, trying to spend the freezing night in a tent with no blankets, as I forgot to bring blankets, and that is slowly filling up with water, as I forgot to put that seemingly trivial pyramidal flap called a rain fly on over my tent (“I wonder what this is for?” I at one point asked myself), so I ended up moving to my car, which wasn’t any more comfortable, only less wet, and attempting to sleep, being at regular intervals shocked awake by especially violent shivers, and waking finally to find that the ocean that day is furious, and will not be accepting any surfers who are not willing to drown for their thrill) (I needed at least two weekends to recover from this one).
So, Maimai is adventurous. She is the reason why Emily, and inevitably, I, started going these grueling yet enjoyable weekend camp-surf trips. She is a lover of nature, and the great outdoors, traveling, taiko, and carpentry. She lived and worked in California for a few years, and so, we can actually have lengthy conversations without my brain melting. As the Japanese say, she is very perapera when it comes to English, and a commonly spoken phrase between Emily and I, as we discuss the machinations of the Japanese language and the fascinations of the culture, “We’ll have to ask Maimai.” Her name is actually not Maimai, but Maiko; but I immediately took to calling her Maimai. “Does anyone call you that?” I had asked her, to which she replied, “One of my friends does, but I don’t really like it.” I didn’t know it at the time, but I found out later that maimai is another word for snail, and is made up of two of the same kanji put together, the kanji for dance, 舞舞 In other words, the word for snail is “dance, dance.” Things like this are why I love the Japanese language. Maimai claimed that she doesn’t like being called Maimai, and for awhile her initial response to my use of Maimai would be met with, “Don’t call me that.” But that phased out once she had discovered her retaliation: Sven Sven. Maimai crafted this after Annie, another ALT in the group, living to the east in Aso, the town with the largest active volcano in Japan towering over it (they also have really good milk), and Emily attempted to dub me “Svenny”. It had something to do with my Swedish heritage and the name Sven being a popular Swedish name, and getting a kick out of saying “Sven Svenson”, “Sven”, or “Svenny”; I didn’t understand any of it and I genuinely did not like it, and Maimai picked up on this immediately, and pairing the uncomfortability of Sven with the repetition of Maimai, Sven Sven was born. It has gotten to the point, where, like a dog, or a child, or anything ever that has been named and is aware enough to realize it has a name, I’m now trained to respond to it, automatically, as I did last week, riding my bike home through the center of Ozu, on my home from a day at Ozu High, and I heard “Sven Sven!” called out to me from above. I looked up and saw Maimai standing on a second story balcony, waving with one hand, and holding a hammer with the other. Maimai enjoys carpentry, but she also gets paid to do it, and carpentry was the reason why, along with a proposed exchange (copies of Studio Ghibli movies for Japanese classic novels – she settled on Akutagawa Ryunosuke’s Kumo no Ito) Maimai was coming to visit me, that Friday afternoon. And her coming to visit me, that Friday afternoon, was in turn the reason why I was not, like I would have been on any other day, not in crisis mode, after receiving a slightly-smaller-than-a-football sized squid from Tamanaga Jr. And Maimai did not know it then, but she was my saving grace, my guardian angel, my ace in the hole; because Maimai was going to help me cook this squid.

The rest of this story is essentially a case study in what happens when you give two people of moderate cooking experience and adventurous spirit a squid to cook, and let them go at it. Being the surfer, carpenter, outdoorswoman that she is, I knew that Maimai was not afraid to get her hands dirty – and yet even then I was surprised. Before she had finished replying to my question, “Have you ever cooked a squid before?” (The reply was, “No.”) She had it on the cutting board, already halfway torn apart, body cavity open, and organs spilling everywhere. Before I could finish thinking my next thought, moving on from “How the hell do we start?” to “What the hell do we do with all these guts?” Maimai was saying, “It’s pregnant!” And showing me a hundred tiny golden eggs – like squishy, ovaloid balls of tapioca (my high school girls would not appreciate me making this reference). There are two kinds of people in this world. There are people who, when given a squid to cook, waste no time in tearing it apart; and then there are people who spend more time thinking about how to tear it apart than actually doing it. Typically I am a adherent of the try-it-and-see-what-happens method, but in the face of this squid, not so much, and I suspect that time I dissected a squid in a college Zoology course had something to do with it, for I was trained to look at organisms in a more anatomical sense, than a culinary one. The next thing Maimai shows me, as I’m struggling to collect the copious amount of organs, eggs, and unrecognizables, is the beak, as she hands me a small, black, dense sphere, and says, “The beak!” As I peel back the flesh to get a better look at it, and not a second after I’ve satisfied my curiosity and set it down, I hear Maimai gasp. “すみだ!” (Ink!) I look over and see that, after a particularly aggressive rend, the body cavity is now flooding with black. Our squid is now bleeding ink. Vigorously. As the surgeon cuts, and the blood overflows, so the surgeon requires a quick aide, to clear it out, and give them an unobstructed view. I instantly recognized my role, and I performed it well, moving the squid over underneath the spigot, applying calculated, periodic blasts of cold water, filling up the sink basin with jet black ink. Had we known about the sumi before, we noted, somewhat regretfully, and with all the pragmatism of a surgeon surgeon-assistant team, that we could have saved the ink and used it for calligraphy. But even professionals make mistakes – especially when they’re not professionals, have never even received any training, have never even attempted to do surgery before, let alone on a member of a different species. Maimai was fast, the squid was surprising, and I could hardly keep up, but somehow, at the end of this flurry of slime and dismemberment and evisceration, two things had, like magic, materialized: a cutting board with a heaping mound of tentacles, body flesh, and mantle, and a bowl with everything else; everything else being the hearts (yes, hearts – squids have multiple; three in fact, as genius Google is telling me now – two branchial hearts, on the sides, and one systemic heart, which is central) eggs, gills, stomach.. with the head neatly placed on top, to cap it all off, eyes facing out, scowling eyes that watched us the whole time and said, “If you don’t make me delicious I swear to God..” And I ate those eyes, but not at first. First we had other business to attend to. Sashimi business.

We had a lot of cooking to do, and we did the easiest of it first, which was, no cooking at all. We ate it raw. Needless to say, after all that disembowlment, (there are an amazing number of words related to destruction, and the destruction of an organism) we were quite hungry. As we worked, Maimai had given me a piece to chew on, and even raw, the squid had plenty of flavor, even a bit of sweetness. However, paired with soy sauce and wasabi, like most other raw, savory delicacies, it’s full flavor potential was unleashed. As with all things that achieve such a level of deliciousness, it was gone too soon, and we were on to the next question – what to do with the rest of the body? There were some bits that were too thick to be eaten raw, comfortably, and that we had to find something to do with, something that did now require some culinary skill. As we enjoyed our hard-won sashimi, Maimai had listed off a few possibilities, and they were all impossible, given the fact that, depending on how many days it’s been since I made my last trip to the grocery store, there are anywhere from one and nine different ingredients in my apartment (excluding spices and Tabasco, of course – you know I keep a well stocked spice shelf). All impossible, that is, except for one. I don’t know what the appropriate cooking-related Italian word to use here is, of the myriad cooking-related Italian words, but it was one of those, plus squid. A little tomato, onion, garlic, butter, and tentacles, and bada-bing-bada-boom, we had ourselves a five-star Italian squid dish. A nice glass of red wine would have complemented it well – but we would have had to finish it quickly, because with our next dish it would not have paired as nicely. For the last dish, as far as dishes go, is where things got interesting. The flesh had now been consumed in its entirety, and what was left? Nothing but the naizou. The guts. And the hearts. And the gills, and the eyes, and the eggs, and.. you get it. Throughout this adventure, Maimai had been asking me, “Should we eat all of it?” And my answer was the same, every time. “Mottainai.” No waste. If it can be consumed, it will be. This did not really stem from a desire to eat squid eyeballs, although there was naturally some curiosity there. As I am an inquisitive person, so I am also an inquisitive eater, and it’s not often I get the opportunity to add something really exotic to the list of interesting things I can say I’ve eaten (some things I’d put on that list: sea urchin (bad) chicken brain (not bad) chicken eyes (bad) jellyfish (neutral) raw horse (good with soy sauce) natto (fermented soybeans, worst)). But the desire to waste nothing was not a matter of hunger, or curiosity, as much as of respect. This squid died so that we could live, and I felt that eating it was the only way to pay it proper respect. Eating all of it. Here Maimai’s knowledge of squid-related recipes came up a bit short, offering only one solution – marinate it and make a soup. Marinate is not a word in either of our cooking vocabularies, but even if it was, we did not have the time, or the ingredients, or the will; and so we did what I do with anything that you don’t boil, microwave, blend, or eat raw – we chopped it up and fried it. Now, here’s a culinary tip for you: How do you know when your squid guts are done cooking? When they smell enough not like squid guts that you can stomach eating them. Another tip? As you cook your squid guts, consider (properly) removing your squid’s ink sac. The choice to do so or not comes down to whether you would prefer your finished product to have a nice grey, grainy, charcoal-like glaze and texture, bathing in a pool of black darkness, or not. And here the difference is, surprisingly, mainly an aesthetic one, as the ink doesn’t much change the flavor profile; or at least, that is what your tongue will tell you, even if your brain finds it hard to believe. Squid organs are surprisingly palatable, although they need some good spicing, as without it are quite bland. The eyes may be hit or miss. If you imagine eating a savory, saltier, but just as explosive cherry tomato, and that sounds alright to you, I’d say go for it, and make sure your mouth is closed when you take that first bite.


In the days following this squidly experience, there were a few things that really struck me. One was how willing Maimai had been to dive, hands first, into the world of squid cooking. There was no fear, there was no hesitation, only swift and decisive action, guided by intuition. There was, to use a phrase Maimai has recently adopted, no dilly-dallying. (and she taught me the Japanese, ザボっている, zabottieru) Maimai operated on a modified version of that old truism, regarding doubt, and working: When in doubt, cook it out. The second thing that I found myself left with was the lingering and acute awareness of having just consumed an entire animal, from head to tentacle tip. Think about it – when was the last time you had, by your own hands, butchered an entire animal, opened it up, laid eyes on its fresh, raw organs, reduced it down to little bits, fried it up, and ate it? Prior to this, I would have answered “Never.” to that question. But all of the meat that we eat starts off this way, as a whole being. And to get to the point where it’s a beautiful red patty, or link, or thigh – it has to go through this process. If not by your hand, by another’s. It’s a whole different way of seeing things, to have squid sashimi served to you at a kaitenzushi restaurant, arriving via conveyor belt, appealingly placed on a small round plate, sitting atop a perfectly sized bit of rice, looking trim and beautiful, as you sit and teach your friends about American dad jokes, versus having squid sashimi served to you at home, served by you, after having just dismantled the whole squid, and hacking off those bits of sashimi yourself. Either the way the end result seems to be the same: they’re both food. And yet, one of them feels much more like food than the other. After feasting on any number of my favorite kaitenzushi sushis, of which there are many, I have never felt inclined to say thank you to the sushi, to neither the fish, the rice, the seaweed, nor the mayonnaise (you might be surprised to hear that there is mayonnaise on sushi – Japanese people like mayonnaise) that make it up. But after eating that squid, I felt, and still feel, a total gratitude towards it. The Native Americans, after a successful hunt of their prey, the bison, and the deer, would pray after a kill, and waste none of the animal’s life, because they felt this too. Logically, conceptually, I know that the piece of squid sashimi that adorns my kaitenzushi sushi at one point came from a living, breathing, inking squid; I know that the shrimp in my ebi fillet was at one point several pink, scuttling shrimp. And yet, I really knew nothing about how it got there, what that process entailed, truly, or how it would make me feel, until I had done it myself – and I will now never look at a piece of squid sashimi the same. I have long thought, if I had to raise, catch, kill, and prepare everything that I ate, how would I eat differently? How would it change me? How would people change, if everyone had to, before they could be allowed to eat a certain animal, hunt and kill one themselves, or see it happen? Should you be allowed to gorge yourself on animal flesh, having never had to yourself face all that was necessary for it to arrive at your plate? Would you want to? In the way that the cooking of this squid did, I wonder how I would change through the experience of butchering, let alone hunting and killing, a pig. Imagination, words, facts, even video – none of it is comparable to lived experience.

The third thing that struck me was this: I am living in Japan. Of course, I know I’m living in Japan. I’m reminded of this every day, by the thousands of juicy orange spheres (mikans) at the grocery store, by that enormous active volcano spewing ash off in the distance, by the illiteracy. I know I’m in Japan; but there are still some moments that stand out to me as being even more Japanese, as rising above the daily average of Japanese-ness, as extraordinary, distinct moments, that really grab me by the shoulders and shake me and say, “Hey, hi, hello, it’s me, Japan! Still like me?” The earthquakes are good at this too, because they have the power to do it literally. (We had an earthquake in my area here a week ago that was a 4.2. When it started I was home, and I first thought that there was an enormous truck passing outside of my apartment, or a train, but then I remembered that neither of these things would be possible, and so, “Hey, this is an earthquake!”) The squid was not so much of a shoulder grab moment as an earthquake; or say, last week was, where all of the teachers at Ozu High gathered together to watch a live broadcast of the Prime Minister, Suga Hideyoshi, and the Emperor, Naruhito (who, fun fact, most/many Japanese people don’t know the name of, because they typically refer to him as Tennousama, emperor) leading a.. what do you call it.. a kind of national grieving, a memorial service and a reminder that ten years had passed since the Touhoku earthquake, the 9.0 earthquake and subsequent tsunami that leveled entire cities and triggered the Fukushima meltdown. This was more subtle, but it was another such experience all the same. People just don’t give out fresh squids in Indiana. And while that may seem like a small thing, all of these small things summed up are what equal my life here, and are what make it so interesting to me, and that keep me here, and make me want to stay longer.


The day after our feast, the first thing on my mind was the squid. Maimai and I had wondered how our digestive tracts would handle the squid’s, and mine handled it just fine. I woke up with an empty stomach – the squid was no more. At least, not in the form that you would consider it a squid. It had been eviscerated, macerated, then disintegrated, and was now being absorbed, and re-appropriated, becoming me (or, what was not absorbed, soon to be leaving me). Whether it was destined to be a part of the one who it had fed, or to be recycled back out into the greater ecosystem, where it would all end up eventually, its duty was done; its part was played, and the cycle of life, upheld. For this, along with going the extra mile and giving me a good story, I have to say thank you, squid. I think I also have to say thank you, Maimai, for without you the squid would have brought me considerably more panic, and certainly a less compelling story, and to Tamanaga Jr., for giving me it in the first place. And I think then the only person I’m leaving out is his co-worker, who caught it for us, and thought to give it him.. but if we go down that road, we would also have to thank his friends, who helped him catch it, the captain of the boat he went out on, the makers of said boat, the various crabs and fish that fed the squid..

And the squid story is finished! The end! We did it!

This took a real toll on me. The typing, more so than the writing. I hope you enjoyed it – maybe you’ve been motivated to go out and try cooking up a squid of your own?

For the time being I really have nothing left to say, if you can believe that. I am all written out. But, like I’ve been doing, and want to keep doing, I’d like to leave you with another quote. It just seems like a good way to wrap this business up. I don’t have any quotes related to squids, unfortunately..

This quote is again from Ralph Waldo Emerson (when I first typed this I typed ‘Walph’ and instantly thought of Elmer Fudd). And it’s short, and short is good, right? Easy to remember.

“Power ceases in the instant of repose.”

If I could apply this to the story and make it relevant: “A squid won’t cook itself.”

That’s it! I want to say one more thing – I said that this story wouldn’t be written in less words, and that is true.. but I was encouraged to spend more time working on a piece in part because of all of the good words that I’ve been getting from you all, and without them I don’t know if I would have been so willing to do so. To everyone who’s been reading and enjoying these posts, and has told me so, your words mean a lot to me – and if we ask how much, apparently enough to get me to write almost three times as much as usual. I write with all of you in mind, and it wouldn’t be the same if you weren’t reading it. So thank you!

皆様ありがとうございます!

Until the next! Jya mata ne!

Sweetpotatoholicism さつまいも中毒

To use the greeting that I’ve recently taught to my good friend Hiroyuki the cat sensei: Howdy partners. (Actually, I only taught him “howdy”. We had a nice conversation about it after I said, “Howdy!” to him. I told him that howdy is a fun greeting, not a standard one; it’s cowboy talk. He asked me, “Do people in Texas say howdy?” And that’s how I learned that howdy is in fact a standard greeting in Texas. I am a big fan of howdy.)

A few weeks ago, I started doing something that was new for me. Well, I guess I started doing a few things that were new for me; the fasting, and the “no-poo”, being the two that come to mind. I’ve told you about those things, but I haven’t told you that I’ve also stopped buying eggs and yogurt, previously staples in my diet. And what’s in, you ask? Sweet potatoes. Pure, unadulterated, boiled sweet potatoes. Earth’s gift to man, Ozu’s gift to Steven. I think I’ve mentioned it before, but Ozu (my city) is kind of a big deal when it comes to sweet potatoes. The mascot is a sweet potato (Karaimo-kun), and the city has a sweet potato festival. I’ve missed the festival twice now – both times it’s been brought to my attention in the days afterwards. “Hey, did you go to the sweet potato festival?” This happens often (my friend Lewis asking me twice if I’ve signed up for the Japanese Language Proficiency Test after the registration window is closed) and in such situations my thought is the same. If only the question had been, “will you” and not “did you”. But I know it’s my fault, and it still happens that I have generally very little idea of what is happening in the world around me – the 3rd was a major holiday, called Hinamatsuri, which a day for celebrating and wishing for the successful growth of young girls, and is the reason why you see creepy dolls in all of the stores in the weeks prior, and I never would have known it, if a teacher had not come up to my desk and said to me, “Steven, do you know what today is? It’s Hinamatsuri,” like she just had a notion, a little inkling that popped into her head as she walked by my desk, that said, “You know, I should probably tell Steven sensei that today is Hinamatsuri.” Her intuition was spot on. But, going back to the sweet potatoes, there is no more bountiful place in Kumamoto, probably in Japan, and possibly in the world, than Ozu – at least, it is certainly the only city that has an enormous, shimmering golden statue of a happy humanoid sweet potato outside of the city hall. Last year, in the sweet potato season, I had had my share of sweet potatoes, and I enjoyed them, for a meal here and there. But this year, things are different – and the difference is entirely due to one, Chopin-playing, glasses-wearing, Ozu-High-School-student-teaching, Kuriyama sensei.

I will call her Kuriyama sensei, but she goes by many names. She introduced herself to me, as some of the other teachers have in the way that I’ve talked about before, that can increase the odds of whether I remember their names or not by about 1000%, by converting it to English, as “Chestnut Mountain.” (Kuri being chestnut, yama being mountain). I thought that was just a beautiful name, and I will still call her Chestnut Mountain at times, and I think it is fitting to her personality, as she is sweet, like some of the best chestnut flavored sweets in Japan, and solid, reliable, force of nature, like a mountain. She told me, early on, that the students had dubbed her “The Great Angel”, and this woman is as angel-like as any you will find. When I had first come to Ozu, she would frequently bring me cups of fresh coffee. I don’t drink coffee (or energy drinks, or sweets, or umaibo – a popular kids snack that I recently realized, to great delight, literally translates to “delicious stick” – or any of the commonly gifted gifts that my Japanese coworkers love to give, creating the perpetual issue of me stockpiling goodies and treats and being forced to come up with new and creative ways to unload myself of them) and so the first time she gave me the coffee, I said, “Oh, thank you so much!” and took it like a good boy, had a few sips, and then after soaking up all of the good working vibes that having a hot cup of coffee at your desk can bring you, poured it down the drain. And after the second time, I said, “Oh, thank you so much!” asked Hashimoto sensei next to me, “Want some coffee?”, took a few sips, and poured it down the drain. And this continued. It is a dance, a fine line, between knowing when to accept gifts, and when to get out of being given them. But after the fourth or fifth time, I knew – this cannot continue, and I had to come out with it and say, “Chestnut Mountain sensei, I appreciate the coffee, but you know.. I’m really more of a water guy!” Of course, the fact that she would go to the effort of whipping up of fresh cups of coffee for me was never lost on me. And after that, the daily gifting was no more – that is, until sweet potato season came around.

It’s amazing to me, when I now think about how long it’s been, but this probably started one and a half, even two months ago. One day, then, Kuriyama sensei had brought me a sweet potato. I can’t remember that first potato – I didn’t realize how significant it would be. Unfortunately I have no mention of it in my journals. At that time, I had no idea that this was the signaling of a new saga in my life. But if I could go back, there are two things I would record – when I got that first potato, and how many potatoes I have gotten since. That day, then, Kuriyama sensei came to me. “Do you like sweet potatoes?” (and actually, this is almost exactly how another story that I have for you starts, only swapping sweet potatoes for another starting-with-the-letter-s-food (it’s squid) but that’s for another time.) And I, like any self-respecting Ozuinian, replied, “Yes, I do like sweet potatoes.” She then proceeds to hand me a small, purple, plastic-wrapped sweet potato. She says to me, “Microwave it for a few seconds. Enjoy!” Now, this potato is distinct for two reasons. The first reason, which I could see immediately, is that it’s smaller than the other sweet potatoes. Compared to the usual suspects, it was about a third of the size. It looked like it been shrink rayed. The second reason, which was made clear to me when I ate it, was that it was steamed. Up until this point in my life, I had only ever eaten these sweet potatoes one way – my way, the boiled way. And, there is nothing wrong with that way; but on that day, I learned that it is an inferior way. Kuriyama sensei’s small, steamed sweet potato was unlike anything I had ever eaten before. A perfect moistness, a perfect sweetness, a perfect form, that fit right into your hand, like a purple, sweeter, mushier chicken nugget. After the second day I had received a potato, and the third day, after I had received a potato, to my utter joy, I realized that I had found myself in the same situation as before, except infinitely better. Every time a potato was bestowed upon me I showed my complete gratitude – Kuriyama sensei, thank you, this is fantastic, these are incredible, I love you. At one point I said to her, “You cook a lot of sweet potatoes!” And she said to me, “Yes, I am a sweetpotatoholic.” And at the time, I simply thought that was funny – it didn’t occur to me then, I didn’t see then what road she was taking me down. After the fourth potato, I too was addicted. In the span of two weeks I had become a full-fledged sweetpotatoholic. I wanted more – I needed to know her secrets, her dark art. The day that I devoured the fifth, after I’d gotten my fix, I crossed the staff room, walked up to her desk, and said, “Kuriyama sensei, tell me. How do I do it? How do I make the potato?” And she revealed her art to me. Unfortunately, it is a complicated art. Involving steam, newspapers, ovens. Tools of sorcery that I am not familiar with and am afraid to experiment in. She told me that the sweet potatoes I wanted were the small ones, called Beni Haruka – the other ones weren’t worth my time. Beni Haruka, a masterful name, a name imbued with class, a name I would give to my dog; perfectly fitting for such a potato. She showed me her stash – a picture of a large cardboard box filled with tens if not hundreds of sweet potatoes. I didn’t question it. I just said, “I will pay you for them. Let me buy your sweet potatoes.” And she said, “How many do you want?” To which I replied, “How many will you give me?” The next day, she showed up with four (of course, all free). After this conversation, I promptly went out and bought several bags of beautiful Benis, brought them home, and worked my own dark magic on them (I boiled them). They were phenomenal, albeit inferior. That day, my life changed.

Our conversation was a pivotal moment for both of us. Kuriyama sensei recognized, we are birds of a feather who eat sweet potatoes together. We are now bonded in sweetpotatoholicism, and she has taken it upon herself to ensure that I never get free. She doubled down on her efforts, and since that day, every single day that I have been at Ozu High School, I have received a sweet potato from her – always perfectly steamed, and wrapped in plastic. In the beginning, when she was converting me, it was simply the giving of a gift. It has since become a game. The question is no longer whether I will get a sweet potato or not on any given day, because she knows, and I know, that I am going to get a sweet potato. The question is now, how? And the ways are many. She is sly, she is cunning. She will come to my desk, to all appearances, on a matter of business, with a inquiry; an English question, an update on the club, some school news – it’s all a masquerade, a pretense, a feint, meant to draw my attention away from the sweet potato that I find myself holding in my hand at the end of it. Passing her in the staff room, she finds ways to work them into our interactions. I mention to her that I’m fasting. “Oh, you must be hungry then. You could use this.” And a sweet potato appears. I come back to my desk from a series of grueling back-to-back-to-back sessions of About Me Bingo – sweet potato is waiting there to restore me. I found that after a period of time, I had even come to rely on, to depend upon my daily sweet potato. There was a day where I had forgotten my lunch, and the first thing that I did was turn to my tantosha, Goto sensei, and say, “I’m gonna’ need that potato.” And on a day just last week, when I had again forgotten my lunch, I said the same thing, and was met with “But Kuriyama sensei is not here today.” And I was destroyed. What was a gift, then became a game, then became something even greater, even magical, a mysterious force. For there was a day, last week, where I thought I finally wouldn’t be getting the potato. Opportunities had come and gone, and I had been saving some of my chocolate for her, 86%, all day – but the potato never came. For as long as I thought sensible, I held out, but in the end I gave up hope. Today there would be no potato, there would be no exchange, and so I ate the chocolate. After I had said my “Otsukaresamadesu!” (“I’m leaving now!”) and had stamped my inkan (ink seal that I stamp on a paper that says I showed up to work), had swapped out my inside-of-school-shoes for my outside-of-school-shoes, I was halfway through the parking lot and had turned the corner of the building, and who greets me but none other than Kuriyama sensei. I give out a surprised, “Hey!” She replies with, as she conjures it up out of her pocket, “Steven sensei.. your potato!” That meeting did seem to be accidental – she expressed as much surprise as I did – but I couldn’t help but come away from it wondering if there were higher forces at work. Mystical forces. Potato forces. I’ve never felt guiltier about eating chocolate. I had given up on her; but she had not given up on me – she still had the potato.

As you can tell from the story, this is currently a big development in my life. And what I’m thinking about now, is something I’ve been thinking about recently, about how there are certain people that just make your life brighter. They have a certain shine about them, a certain radiance, a charm, an aura, and interactions with them never fail to bring some of that brightness into your day. You have a certain synchronicity with them; your cogs match, your pieces fit. I am lucky enough to have a number of those people at my schools, and in my circle, students and teachers alike. Kuriyama sensei is certainly one of those people. And it strikes me now that another one of those people is Matsuzaki sensei, at Shoyo, who also gives me daily produce. I’m seeing a theme here.. From her, I’m getting weekly dekopon, or shiranui, and this is an interesting thing, that she told me about – there are two names for the same fruit; they conduct a “special test” and if the sourness level is above a certain threshold, it’s declared a dekopon, and if it’s at or below, a shiranui. I could have them switched. I probably have them switched. In both cases, they are one of the greatest citrus fruits you could possibly grace your tastebuds with. (I’ve typed tastebuds and autocorrect is telling me I’m wrong. I won’t change it – I like tastebuds as one word.) But, about these bright people.. I think about this now, I think more acutely, because I know that some of them will be gone soon. In Japan, the school year ends in the spring. The third years have already graduated (there are three grades in Japanese high schools). The new school year will start in April. At the end of March, the teachers will leave, and new teachers will come in their place. This is a quirk of the Japanese school system – teachers are rotated throughout the prefecture. They typically work at a school for a few years, but they can for as many as ten or more, in rare cases. My tantosha, who is one of these lights, will be leaving. So will Matsuzaki sensei, who has done her duty and will now be enjoying the freedom of retirement (she’s very excited about this). I knew about their leavings, but I was caught by surprise this week in a conversation with Kuriyama sensei and Hayashi sensei, after Ozu’s graduation ceremony. Hayashi sensei is having a baby (due in two months, she hid it well, I never noticed) and Kuriyama sensei has worked at Ozu for ten years – she’s on the chopping block. I asked if she would get another year, and she said to me, “Do you think Kouchou sensei likes me?” (Ultimately, it is the kouchou sensei’s (principal’s) decision, who stays and who leaves). I asked for a percentage and she gave me 50%. The winds of change blow strong this spring. If she goes, it will be the end of an era.

I wish they would stay! But, so is life. The world is ever in flux. Sweet potato season doesn’t last forever – but when it goes, new seasons take its place. Specifically, I think it will be nashi season soon (the Japanese pear). And that’s an interesting fruit, kind of an apple-pear hybrid, with the skin, color, and flavor of a pear, but texture and shape of an apple. I embrace nashi season with open arms!

It’s funny – I started this post by saying that I started something new a few weeks ago – and I haven’t even told you what it was. I’ve spent this whole time talking about Chestnut Mountain and her sweet potatoes. That sums up about perfectly how I write these things. Each one is a creation, as unpredictable as the shape of an island after the eruption of a deep-sea volcano. And what I had wanted to tell you in the beginning was completely insignificant – it was just the capstone, being blown off by the pressure that had built up inside that crusty, magma-laden chamber. Still, we’ll get to it, but not tonight. This magma has cooled!

I’d like to leave you with a quote. Recently these words from Ralph Waldo Emerson’s Essays have been resonating with me.

“If you are true, but not in the same truth with me, cleave to your companions; I will seek my own. I do this not selfishly, but humbly and truly. It is alike in your interest, and mine, and all men’s, however long we have dwelt in lies, to live in truth.”

That’s it! I have added a widget that enables you to be notified by email whenever I post, if you’d like to do that. It should be right under these words. It is also now easier to find my blog. If you just search maninjapan.jp you’ll find it. Apparently, it was hard to find my blog via searching, there being many other man in Japan blogs (one man, garbage man, and tallest man; we should form a coalition of men in Japan). I still don’t think I show up in the search, but everyone can remember maninjapan.jp, especially me, which means I can now tell my friends how to actually get here, instead of going through the whole, “Well just search it! No no, not onemaninjapan. No, I’m not garbagemaninjapan! There’s nothing special about me! Just maninjapan! What do you mean I’m not showing up!”

Anyways.. Jya mata ne!

UPDATE: She came today. I’m deep in reading NHK Easy News. I hear, “Oh! You have plenty of food.” *Noting my stack of apple, mikan, chocolate, and cereal/nut/seed mix* She casually places a potato on my desk. Before I can even say thank you she’s moving on, and I say, “Hey, wait, wait.” And put a piece of chocolate in her hand. When this is all said and done I might just have to show her this post.

My special secret is: I’m happy 僕の特別な秘密は、僕が嬉しいということです

Howdy ho buckaroos.

This title was inspired by one of my student’s responses on a worksheet I gave them. It’s the end of the year and we’re doing About Me Bingo. The students had to fill out some things about themselves, the basics you know, favorite color, artist, food you like. One of the questions was, “What’s your special secret?” This got some good answers, and I enjoyed reading all of the students special secrets, like “I have an older sister,” and “I don’t like English,” but the one that really tickled me was, “I’m happy.”

And these days, I am happy! The Happy Light is here, the White Knights have made their charge, and the Cruel Mistress is vanquished. Today it was a bright and sunny day. My friends and I were sweating in the sun as we played soccer. The first trees are starting to bloom, the plum trees, and I am blooming with them. They resemble sakura but they bloom earlier. Last year I actually did mistake them for sakura, not knowing any better. As the days grow longer, so my mood is uplifted. It’s amazing how much of a difference a little bit of light can have on your disposition. We are not so different from the plum trees.

There’s a lot going on in my mind these days, and a lot of it is scattered, and is not so much good story material – but I think that enough time has passed and I owe you guys something. Every day that passes I feel a stronger urge to write, and I think that at this point there’s no better way than to just start and see what happens.

I’ll try to tell you some interesting things..

One thing that has been a fixation of mine for some time now is fasting. Like a fly buzzing around my head, it has floated around in my thoughts, always popping up during those periods of time where I’m free to think about whatever I’d like to think about, and my mind is wandering. In the beginning I wasn’t thinking about fasting. I was just doing it. I had gotten a little chubby, had a nice chub-chuberoo going on, and I had pretty much gotten sick of looking at it and talking about how I should do something about it, and so I did. Losing chub is not complicated – I started burning more calories and eating less. This was around November I believe, and I’m sure I also ate less because of the effect that winter has on me. I went from eating a hearty amount of food, as I acquired a habit of eating larger portions as I went through a muscle-building period, because I wanted to look like Captain America, to eating probably half of that, and spending a good deal of time hungry. And after awhile, I noticed that I had started to feel sharper, mentally and physically. I hadn’t given that much more thought beyond, “Hey this is interesting!” until one day, when I was at Shoyo, and I ordered the bento lunch. I used to eat the bento lunch every day at Shoyo. I would give the office 400円 in the morning, and at around 10:30-11am, I would find a big, beautiful bento sitting on my desk. (The hungrier you are, the more beautiful it is. In actuality the palette is a rather lackluster spread of grey-brown-white, not the most visually appealing thing to eat). I stopped eating the bento, partially because it was pretty lackluster, and partially because I was trying to cut down on food. But one day, I came in and had forgotten to bring anything for lunch. I knew I would need to eat something, and so I ordered the bento, and when it came, I did what I always did, like what everyone does, and I ate the whole bento. And why that was significant was because after I ate that I went from having a mind like a razor sharp katana to a should-have-been-thrown-away-three-months-ago disposable razor. I was a souped-up sports car who had just driven over a spike strip. Basically, my mental acuity, along with my productivity, was completely obliterated. And I thought, holy crap, what is actually happening? I used to eat that bento every day! I wondered if I had always felt that way after eating the bento, or if it was just because of the sharp contrast between my two states, going from fasted to stuffed, and it left a lasting impression on me. That was really the moment when I realized that there was something to this.

So, that was my anecdotal evidence. After that, what kept rolling around in my brain was a single sentence, coming from Obama’s “Dreams Of My Father.” After moving to New York, to study at Columbia University, he briefly mentions some of the habits he had adopted during that time. One of those habits was fasting on Sunday. There was no explanation as to why, and that kept coming back to me. Obama’s a smart guy – why’d he do it? That stuck in my brain, and so after this had simmered in my mind long enough, I took a dive and did some research. What I found was pretty interesting.

When I first had that epiphany, the bento-inspired one, I had done a bit of research, but very surface level. I got as far as the words “intermittent fasting” and popular fasts. I got a list of the reputed or empirically supported benefits, I thought, seems good, I’ll keep eating less, and so I did, and that was the extent of it. I knew that it was good, but I didn’t know why. Apparently that wasn’t enough, because fasting continued to stay on my mind, and so last weekend I sat down and I took a deeper dig. Quickly, I found my way to a TedX talk that I believe is about eight years old, by a researcher for the National Institute of Health in the US, named Mark Mattson. This fifteen minute talk was totally fascinating to me. People knew that eating less was good for them as far back as 3800 BC, based on an Ancient Egyptian quote, “Humans live on one-quarter what they eat, and on the other three-quarters lives their doctor.” But what people couldn’t do back then, that they can do now, is understand the biomechanics of why. I won’t say much here – I think it’s worth it to watch the talk – but I’ll say a bit. People have known for some time that restricting calorie intake results in greater longevity. Mark Mattson became interested in fasting, because his primary area of research is age-related neurological diseases, like Parkinson’s and Alzheimer’s, and was looking to fasting as a way to help treat or prevent such diseases. What he found was why fasting does have a significant positive effect on the body and brain. To my understanding, this is why. Your body stores glycogen in the liver, and uses this as a primary energy source. It takes about twelve hours for your body to exhaust this glycogen store; less if you perform rigorous exercise. People who are relatively sedentary and eat three meals a day almost never exhaust this glycogen store. When you do, your body needs a new source of energy, and it turns to ketosis. Maybe you’ve heard of that before, that might be what the keto diet is all about, I haven’t done any research on that. Ketosis is a process where your body turns fat into ketones, and it turns out that ketones are really good for your brain. Ketones are used to produce what are called neurotrophic factors, which are, to my understanding, proteins that stimulate mitochondrial activity in the neurons in the brain. They also stimulate neuron growth, and do good things for your synapses and dendrites (increase the number of connections or increase connection speeds perhaps, I’m not sure exactly). Basically – you get smarter. This is not the only benefit of fasting – another benefit is that it encourages apoptosis, which is programmed cell death, which is where your body kills off and clears out old cells, making room for new ones. Mark Twain wrote, “A little starvation can really do more for the average sick man than can the best medicines and the best doctors.” That may be why! There are other measurable benefits as well, reducing inflammation in the body is another I can think of. Inflammation is a primary cause of cardiovascular disease. Who doesn’t want to reduce a little inflammation in the body?

When I learn about things like this, it just makes me realize that I still have yet so much to learn, that we have so much yet to learn. I just wonder, how much is out there that if I knew about it, it would change the way that I live, now, today? I think about all of the things that are already known, that are already discovered, but are yet undiscovered to me, things that I’d love to know, and have yet to find out.

I have now adopted an intermittent fasting strategy that seemed appealing to me – I’m eating from eleven in the morning to seven at night. I was already not eating breakfast, so this has been easy to do, I just delayed when I started eating by a bit. What’s really interesting is how at first I would find myself so hungry in the mornings, and now, while I do still find myself hungry in the morning, it passes quite quickly, and I can go on without a problem. It seems that our bodies tell us we’re hungry more out of habit than out of true need to eat.

The other things I’ve been thinking about.. I’ve been dabbling in public transportation and I hadn’t shampooed for twelve days, until today, as I got a haircut. I thought about telling Funai san, “Leave off the shampoo,” but in the end I let him suds me up. That’s another thing – the shampoo. Apparently there has been a “no-poo” movement around for a few years. I guess I’m doing that too.

I could keep writing… it’s been an eventful time. I can tell you a little story – there has been a little bit of drama in the prefecture in the past week. On Friday morning, I was at my desk at Shoyo, and I was greeted by a genki older teacher, in his usual genki fashion, saying “O-hayo!” He is the only teacher who greets me with an Ohayo only, as it’s more casual, and the way I understand it is he’s older and he’s earned the right to say Ohayo to whoever he pleases. And this reminds me of a joke that I also learned recently, from Sakamoto sensei, who is also a sensei of great interest. Sakamoto sensei is a kind and caring teacher, but he has that special talent that might be bestowed upon all kind old teachers, where he can put a third of the class to sleep within the first three minutes of class (these are the students who have decided from the beginning that it was nap time) and the next third to sleep by the end (the students who tried valiantly to stick it out, but succumbed along the way). I think only the final third survives with my help, or by having a true love of learning and/or the English language. Sakamoto sensei has a peculiar trait where he will start the class with a greeting that is totally unpredictable in its cadence, intonation, and volume. I have thought long and hard about why this happens and I don’t have an answer. It may just be an uncontrollable outburst of the raw joy he feels at being able to start another English Conversation class. When I first had class with him, this initial proclamation would burst out in such an unexpected and irregular way, but with such enthusiasm, that it was nearly impossible for me not to laugh, and many of the students would. It’s generally a variation of a phrase like, “Good morning everyone, how are you today?” And it would come out in a way such as, “Good morning everyone, how ARE you today?” with the ARE being the climax of a curve of increasing enthusiasm, or the crest of a wave of vocal energy within the sentence. Or perhaps, a “Good morning everyone, how are yoU TODAY?” Starting off seemingly normal, but ending with an explosive finish. What is even harder to catch in writing is the way he will stagger the phrase, on top of the already random surge of energy within the sentence. Comedy is funny because it’s unexpected – Sakamoto’s class greeting is comedy for this reason, coupled with the fact that he is so completely unselfconscious. To all appearances, he does not recognize that he is doing a humorous thing, and the fact that he struggles to read his crowd may be a big part of why so many students fall asleep in his class. But he does mean well, and his heart is certainly in the educating of his students, and he frequently will bring props into class (recently he brought in his new shoes, they were about six different shades of brown, he scored them for about $20) as topics of conversation, or focus on local or global news. Anyways, as we were walking to class, I told Sakamoto sensei a joke I had learned recently, and he chuckled. Then he surprised me by responding with a joke of his own, and here it is: A man says, “Minnasan, Illinois gozaimasu!” He meant to say, “Ohio gozaimasu.” Get it? Let me break it down. Ohio is one of the only states that most Japanese people know, along with New York, California, Texas, and Los Angeles (one of the most given responses when I ask a class to name US states), because ohayo gozaimasu is “good morning” in Japanese, and it sounds like Ohio, so it’s like there’s a state named “Morning.” Minnasan means “everyone”. Minnasan, ohayo gozaimasu is a common way to start a morning class or meeting. Illinois gozaimasu is what you say when you get the state mixed up. You can insert any state, Illinois, Kentucky, Florida – but you’ll have more success if it’s a state the Japanese person you’re telling the joke to knows; otherwise there will only be confusion.

Alright, that was a tangent. Where were we..

I’m at my desk, teacher comes up, says his “Illinois!” Shoot, I mean Ohio. (funny?) He says, “Ohayo!” And I reply with the usual diligent, “Ohayo gozaimasu!” And as that’s usually the end of it, I turn back to my desk – but then I notice, he’s hovering. This is a very rare occurrence. Perhaps only once before he’s stopped to talk to me after the ohayo, after many an ohayo. I turn to him, seeing that he wants to talk. He’s looking down, and I give him a “Genki desuka?” (how are you) and he quickly responds, “Genki.” And I can now see clearly that there is something on his mind. He looks up at me, with a somewhat somber face, and says, “Ima, toraburu.” (Now, there’s trouble.) And of course, whenever someone comes to me talking about trouble, they’re talking about America, and so I immediately reply, “America?” And I’m already steeling myself to have a conversation about the latest American atrocity. He says, “Yes. ALT.” And now I’m really on alert. So there’s been trouble with an American ALT. I’m already thinking of what and who it could be. My mind conjures up a list of names. As far as American ALTs in Kumamoto, I know most of them. I’m thinking, oh boy, do I know them, are they a JET, and what did they do. He tells me it’s big news, on the front page of the Kumamoto newspaper, and he’s got my full interest, and I tell him I don’t know about it. He looks around and asks if anyone has a newspaper, and then tells me he’ll bring me a copy of his, and then leaves me momentarily to my imagination. I realize that I could probably find this online, and so I turn to the computer and search up the Kumamoto newspaper, which I had never thought to look up online before, but will now be checking it frequently, and I found the article, #1 on the ranking of popular articles. I scan the headline, but the kanji are difficult, and I can’t read them. I give the article a click, read it through, and come up with this: he was a guy, he was working at Luther High School (a private Christian school in Kumamoto City), he hadn’t been in Kumamoto for long, and he wasn’t a full time teacher, so he wasn’t a JET, and he had imported 3 grams of something. What that something was, it was now time to find out. I copy and paste the first four kanji of the headline into my dictionary, and I come up with two words: liquid, and marijuana. Yikes.

Right after that, Ohayo/Ohio sensei returns, and shows me the newspaper, and sees that I’ve just looked it up. And then, I didn’t really know what to say. I said, thanks for telling me, I didn’t know him, and it’s a good thing it wasn’t me right! I thought that would get a laugh, because I think it there would be few things I could do that would blow the mind of my coworkers more than be arrested for importing liquid marijuana; but he was taking this all somewhat seriously. Marijuana in Japan is totally a no-go, so this guy really messed up. He will probably go to prison. The only thing I know about Japanese prison is from a conversation between the friend of the dad of the 6-year-old main character in the manga I’m now reading and the main character, when she told him that her dad had banned her from riding her bike because she rode without a license. He said, “It’s good that you didn’t get caught riding without a license, the police would arrest you. Do you know about prison?” and she says, “The place where you eat cold rice every day..” and he says, “Oh, you know about it!”

So that was my drama for the week! I wanted to write a bit about kanji, but I think this is where I’ll wrap it up this time around. We can save that for next time. We have all the time in the world to talk about kanji! Here is the link to Mark Mattson’s TEDx talk. If you’re interested in what I was saying about fasting, you should check this out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UkZAwKoCP8&ab_channel=TEDxTalks

And that’s it! I hope you’re surviving winter and if you haven’t seen the White Knights yet they’ll be there soon! I’ve just finished reading Thoreau’s Walden and.. man. Some books just find you at the right place, at the right time, and this was one. I could write a whole post, a whole series of posts on my takeaways from it. It seems like I found myself quoting almost every page. I can’t give you all of them, but I can give you one.

“Rather than love, than money, than fame, give me truth. I sat at a table where were rich food and wine in abundance, and obsequious attendance, but sincerity and truth were not; and I went away hungry from the inhospitable board.”

(Two updates I’d like to make)

Good article I found yesterday: https://jamesclear.com/good-bad-intermittent-fasting

I was asked how long a fast can be before it’s detrimental to your health, and so I looked that up, mainly out of curiosity (I’m not trying to test that out; 18 hour fasts are long enough) I’m not sure what the exact answer is as far as when fasting is doing more harm than good – it must depend on the person, and when your body starts to break down muscle; but it struck me that in the opening lines of the article, the author is, just like I was, referencing Obama. He brought the big BO in for another reason; he was touching on the power of the fast as a way to reduce decision fatigue; yet another reason to give the fast-life a try! But I wanted to add a little disclaimer: I spoke with my friend Madeleine about intermittent fasting and she brought up a good point that the author also briefly touched on, that women, and specifically menstruating women, may have a different experience when fasting, and possibly not a good one, as it can affect their hormone levels. She mentioned to me that most of the studies that have been done on fasting have not focused on women, and so that would be worth looking into.

Another update: There is one more thing I want to say about Sakamoto sensei. Along with his glorious class greetings, he has another particular habit that’s interested me. Whenever he’s done working for day, before leaving the teachers’ office (the teachers work in a shared, open space) he makes a point of coming over to my desk and saying to me, “Goodbye Steven sensei, I’m leaving for the day!” Of course, the other teachers say goodbye to me, and I say goodbye to them, but unless I catch them on the way out, or in the hall, it’s not a personal goodbye, but rather a communal goodbye, an announcement to the entire office. Sakamoto sensei goes out of his way to give me a personal goodbye, at the end of each day. And I quite like that. Only Sakamoto sensei does this, and I think this act is a Sakamoto specialty.. but now that I think about, it could also be because literally no one else leaves earlier than I do. This is something I often feel very guilty about, my early leaving time. It’s hard not to feel guilty as I look out across the sea of hardworking teachers and give my “otsukaresamadesu!” (this is often translated to ‘thank you for your hard work’, and that’s more or less accurate enough) and they respond in kind, and I know that they will all be there for possibly several more hours, grading their papers, holding their meetings, while I am a free man, walking my five minute walk home, making myself a hot bowl of delicious soba, putting my feet up, going for a leisurely run, cracking into a good book. If any of them then, at that moment, think to themselves, as they give their otsukaresamadesu in reply, “Oh Steven sensei, leaving so soon! You must be tired after your long day of bingo and preventing students from getting any work done during cleaning time!” I have no defense. The life of the ALT is a blessed one indeed. My close friend Matsunaga sensei assures me that no one despises me for it – I hope that’s true. It’s probably true. Whether they do despise me or not, Sakamoto sensei certainly doesn’t.

One day, on a day where I left not soon after him, I thought, “I don’t do this for anybody. It makes me happy. It will probably make other senseis happy. I should give it a try.” And I hesitated for a moment, as I was struck with a counter-thought, “Ah, it’s not worth bothering anyone over. You’ve said your otsukaresamadesu; you’re a free man.” But after I had taken a few steps past that sliding office door, I wavered again, and Sakamoto sensei’s influence won out. Someone was getting a goodbye. I walked into the adjoining office, up to Matsuzaki sensei’s office, like I have many times before, to ask about a lesson plan, or to tell her thank you for a dekopon (delicious sour orange), or try out a new joke, or ask a Japanese question – but this time, I just said, “Hey. I’m going home! Have a nice night!” And she was happy!

オオカミと白い騎士 Wolves and White Knights

Major Update: This post was written in the winter of 2020. I have just passed through the winter of 2021/2022 almost entirely unscathed. Kept my stride the whole time. I wrote in this post that I would have to live with SAD my whole life. But I have this time around made an incredible discovery, and that is light therapy. By blasting 10000 lux of light into my eyes every morning this winter I was able to get the light that my body needs so desperately in the winter, artificially, and it made a huge difference. I used a product called Luminettes, and would highly recommend them to anyone struggling with SAD, or who just feels that they could use a boost to their energy levels, or struggles with waking up. They have been truly life-changing for me. If you are SAD, do not hesitate to bring light therapy into your life in some form!

For the one seeking redemption for their cursed soul, there is the church. For the one seeking water to cure their parched lips in the waterless desert, there is oasis. And for the one searching for life in the middle of a bleak and desolate winter, there is onsen.

I’ve been in a strange, tense state.
I blame it on the winter.

I’ve been unable to relax, unable to unwind, spending every minute striving, enduring, or otherwise holding myself hostage to a certain strictness, and for what purpose, simply because I can’t find it in myself to have any “wasted time”, since I’m not doing what I want to do, even though I haven’t the slightest idea what I want to do really is. I only have a vague, ceaseless, unyielding dissatisfaction, and my answer to it seems to be spending every ounce of my dissatisfied energy on anything that I could consider to be concretely productive, that I can feel justified about doing, and I’m starting to wonder if perhaps I’m getting some kind of masochistic satisfaction out of denying myself any pleasure, or perhaps I’m just angry that nothing seems to be bringing me pleasure, or satisfaction, or if it would, it’s for the wrong reasons. At any rate, although I haven’t had much fun this winter, I can say that my Japanese, as a consequence of this self-imposed period of monasticism, has improved tremendously.


Yesterday, I bought a book, titled “Wolves and Wild Dogs”, replete with full-page graphics of lean, menacing, sharp-toothed hunters, pulling down boars and bulls alike, and I think that what may have drawn me to this book was that there was something in those images, of the shocking, wet white fur of the Arctic wolf, artfully bounding an ice floe, of the matted white and grey, brown-tinged Eurasian wolves, with their piercing gazes, posing boldly out in the frigid tundras and snowscapes, something in them stirred up something in me, and maybe I felt that I too, was like these wolves; gaunt, hungry, hunting.

The alternative to this mindset, for me, may be depression, and that I won’t do.


Again, I blame this on the winter. I have no doubt that I am a fortunate benefactor of that aptly named illness, SAD, seasonal affective disorder. It’s something I’ll never escape, only something that I will learn to live with, considering most places bar the equator have seasons, and one of those seasons will be Winter, that cruel, grey mistress.

If it were possible to do so, I would wholeheartedly like to step into the ring with Winter, and take it down, dominate it, physically express my pent-up disgust and dislike of it, as relief for me, and punishment for it. But Winter I cannot dominate. And Winter I cannot escape. And so, I can only defy.


While Winter is crushing in its oppression, there is yet a place where she holds no power, and that place is the onsen. What everything Winter is, the onsen is her antithesis. It is the only place where one can go to escape the iron chains of chill, the smothering blanket of unyielding and endless grey, the savage spell of flesh-cracking aridity. It is sacred ground, the onsen, and from the minute you step into its domain, you are freed like a citizen of East Germany taking their first step across that dividing line. Winter, be damned! you’re free to declare, as you brazenly strip off your armor, and stride forth, naked, utterly exposed, something that is completely unthinkable, could not be tolerated by the cruel Mistress, but again, this is not her domain, and it must spite her to no end, knowing that all her hard work is being in an instant undone; for the moment one steps into that steaming, sacred bathhouse, one is restored, and the icy grip of Winter’s clawed hand, shattered and melted, dissolved and replaced with a vigorous, shrouded aura of vitality, of life.


It was not in the summer that I understood onsen’s power. For in the summer, one has an altogether different, much inferior enemy, the eternal and omnipotent humidity, and a steaming hot bathhouse doesn’t do much in that battle. But against Winter, onsen is an impregnable fortress, one that the enemy, try with all her might, cannot take, one that undoubtedly frustrates and infuriates her, as her foes, her oppressed subjects, return to it again and again, to be protected and restored, re-equipped and reinvigorated, given new life to continue the fight.

If only I had an onsen closer to me, that I could seek its splendid shelter every night! Were I a wolf, then the feeling that takes hold of me when I walk into that onsen must be akin the feeling a wolf has of securing a hard-won kill. For they are both a matter of freedom from oppressors. Freedom from that sharp, aching, gnawing oppressor, hunger, for the wolf, and freedom from that silent, looming desolation, Winter, for me.


There was one other place, one other time, when I have felt in full defiance, stood in absolute insolence of Winter. On top of a mountain, fully equipped for battle, with a slicing whirlwind whipping about me, blasting my eyes and howling my ears, with the monochrome palette of white earth, black rock, and grey void before me, I could then shout, Winter, you are nothing to me. And in that moment, it was absolute truth. I could look her right in the face and lay down a direct challenge, and take a resolute stand; I could fight, on my own terms, a direct fight. I could step into the ring with her, for once, or so I felt. But this was me, trying to dictate the terms of our engagement, and Winter smartly declined them. No, we fight on her terms, and it is not a fight that she will have decided by a single, all-forces-mustered mountaintop brawl; it is a fight to be won through endurance, through enduring a series of grinding skirmishes, attempts at gradually whittling, crushing down the main forces into nothingness, occurring over a period of hours, days, weeks, months. Or, like the garrison of a castle town, too strong or too costly to be overpowered, who has found themselves surrounded and under siege, by a vastly superior force, and who has no choice but to endure, to hold out, to send out the messengers and pray that reinforcements come. But unlike many of the answers to the prayers of the inhabitants in a besieged city, reinforcement from Winter is certain. There is no doubt that it will come; the unfailing Spring. Like a thousand glittering steel-clad knights, astride their gallant white horses, coming up over the hill and into full view of all, radiant in the shining sun, Spring will come to strike fear into the heart of the fiend Winter, and recognizing that her attempted conquest is at its end, she will draw off, and the siege will be broken, and the people, liberated.

The white knights are close. I can feel the warmth of their horses’ exhalations in these new, daring, spells of sunlight and warmth. I know their arrival must be soon, I can count it in the passing of the days. The people are ready for liberation! They hold the image, the soon-to-come sight of hooves trampling over the hill, high in their consciousness, lighting a fire in their souls, raising their clenched fists to the sky, crying out, Come, O’ Glorious Knights, Come!

(I am now reading Moby Dick. Clearly Herman is rubbing off on me. It’s a good book. At this moment I would rather be cooped up in the quarters of a whaling ship in the middle of the ocean than in an apartment in Ozu Town. Although as I type that now, I imagine that it’s at least warm and sunny out on the sea – but when Ishmael and his crew embark on their whaling adventure, it’s the middle of winter. Which is quite fitting, isn’t it.)

(This is entirely unrelated, but if you are as blind as I am, do not buy clear glasses. Can’t find them when you set them down.)

(Happy New Year to everyone, we will have a great 2021!)

The Bowl Story – At long last, and fully-baked 茶碗話

From The Future, A Preview: This story is about my buying a bowl from a local noodle shop. I use this bowl every day that I am home. I eat everything out of this bowl. It is a big bowl in my life. This is the story of how I came to acquire this magnificent bowl.

Alright. We’re back.

Yes, it’s finally here. What you’ve all been waiting for. Maybe you thought it would never come. But it’s here. The bowl story.

Let’s go.

Right off the bat, I have to tell you. For this post, I’m trying something new, which is why it feels weird to be calling this a post. I’m writing this post out entirely by hand, instead of typing it out first, as I usually do. I’m doing this because of something that our good man Barack Obama said, when he was talking about how he writes everything out on legal pads (his medium of choice – for me, it’s scrap paper that I’ve accumulated at the school and taken home, failed or overprinted copies of worksheets and whatnot). He writes first, he says, because it helps him to avoid “half-baked thoughts.” That stuck with me, and as I don’t want to be writing half-baked thoughts, and posting half-baked posts, I thought I’d try doing it Obama style, this time. Although, if blog posts are anything like cookies, half-baked may just be best.

Without further ado, then, let’s get into the bowl story.

This story is really about a bowl. I eat out of this bowl every day, usually several times a day. I have four bowls. One I made, two I inherited, and one I bought, and it’s the bought bowl that this story is about.

The story takes places many months ago. It was the day that James, the Ubuyama JET, was leaving Kumamoto. He has since been succeeded by another James, from Australia, who I had met for the first time on Christmas Eve, at our small Christmas party. He’s from the Gold Coast, is allergic to nuts, and raw strawberries, and tomatoes, had never seen snow before coming to Kumamoto, has a different pronunciation for merry, Mary, and marry. He comes from an area of about 800,000, to a town of, what, several thousand at most. His new house is surrounded by trees, with only two neighboring houses, where the school administrators stay when they don’t want to go back to their real homes. His closest grocery store is about 20 minutes away. His car has immediately failed him. The engine light came on, and when he got it checked out by a mechanic, the mechanic plugged his computer into the car and said, “Well I’ve never seen this before!” Which is always what you want to hear your mechanic say. He will probably have to buy a new car. So Australian James is having a nice welcome to Kumamoto experience. We did try to give him a proper welcoming, and show him a good time, American Christmas style, and he tried snickerdoodles and cinnamon rolls for the first time. I asked my friend Ryoka chan if she had had cinnamon rolls before and she said, “Yes, of course. Why?” And I told her that my new friend James hadn’t, and she was shocked. Her words: “What? How does this happen?” Which is a great question that I will ask James about the next time I see him – how and why are Australians not eating cinnamon rolls.

At the party, we played a round of rock-paper-scissors. That is, we played the American version. Now, you may be surprised to hear this, but there are other versions of rock-paper-scissors. Other variants. The Japanese have two. They have the Japanese version, which is jyan-ken-pon, and then they have their English version, which is rock-scissors-paper. For me, who’s spent my whole life playing it rock-paper-scissors, who has known nothing else, this just feels wrong. Australian James (I think we’ve found our nickname here. Australian James has a nice ring to it. Like Indiana Jones. Who is known in Japan as Indy Jones. I discovered this when I was telling my classes that I was from Indiana, which unsurprisingly almost no one knows about, because it’s not Texas, New York, Florida, Hawaii, or one of those big cities in California, and when I would say, do you guys know Indiana Jones, they would stare at me blankly, and then I would sing the theme song, and then they would say, “Indy Jones!!”) Australian James taught us yet another way, the Australian way, which is paper-scissors-rock. Somehow this one is more palatable to me. I think I don’t like ending on paper. I’m writing about this because when we told James about the other American version, rock-paper-scissors-shoot! He said, “Yep, that’s just like Americans.”

Annie, Emily, and I were taking American James out to lunch, before his flight to Tokyo. He had taken a new job in Saitama, teaching kindergarteners. This was last April, I believe. Annie gave James a ride to the Kumamoto airport, which is a ten or fifteen minute drive from my place in Ozu, and so we had lunch in Ozu, at a place that Emily’s predecessor (the ALT before Emily, in the JET world we call them predecessors; some people call them ‘preds’, but the first time I heard that I immediately thought, ‘predator’, so it hasn’t really caught on with me) had taken her to before he left. This place is よも麵 (yomomen), a small, unassuming local noodle shop posted up next to the Ozu public library.

Our squad shows up at about 2 pm on a Sunday. We walk in, are greeted, and directed towards to ticket vending machine on our left. This machine is frequently found in noodle shops. They will take your order and your money, and issue a ticket in return, that details your order, that you then give to the staff. I really enjoy these ticket machines. So we turned to this particular ticket machine (I’m now wondering what this thing is actually called in Japanese – I know vending machine is 自動販売機, jidouhanbaiki, or 自販機, jihanki, for short) and started to peruse the menu. At this time, I took it upon myself to read what was written on each of the buttons, and explain the meaning, to my friends, who are all at least as Japanese savvy as I am, James much more so, and so they could quickly point out all my errors. “See here, these are the hot noodles. This means hot. And these are the cold noodles. That means cold. And these are the happiness noodles. This means happine-” “Those are spicy noodles.” And here, in my defense, was a mistake that anyone could have made. The kanji for happiness and spicy are dangerously similar, as is the case with many kanji. Here’s happiness – 幸い、and here’s spicy – 辛い. Tricky, right. And here’s two more tricky ones – 士 (samurai)土 (ground). And then there’s 末 (end) and 未 (not yet). I guess this is what happens when you have tens of thousands of these things. There’s just gonna have to be some trickery.

I do like the idea of happiness noodles and I think someone should be selling them.

So anyways, after reading almost every label on the machine, mainly to myself, as the friends stopped listening awhile ago, it was my turn to order. I had decided that for me, I didn’t need to know what I was ordering – I just needed to know the price. I was incredibly hungry, and so I just wanted max food, and at a noodle place, this means whatever is the most expensive. So I found the most expensive option, all the way down at the bottom right, put in my money, pushed the button, and got my ticket. I handed it to the nice looking store owner, a younger-middle-aged woman, and sat down at the end of the row. And so this was the beginning of what would become an unusually eventful restaurant experience.

It turned out that out of all of the tickets, I should have read mine, because right after sitting down, the woman came up to me and said, hesitatingly, and in good English, “Um.. Excuse me, but, this is takeout. Do you want takeout?” My friends are amused. I look at the ticket, and it says, お持ち帰り, omochikaeri (literally meaning, “take home”. It’s definitely takeout. I tell her that I want to eat in the restaurant, and that I chose this because I was really hungry, and it was the most expensive thing on the menu. She understands, and asks me if I want hot or cold noodles. I think about it for a moment, and tell her, cold. She gives me some money back. She turns and starts to walk away, when I suddenly remember to slip in a, “肉なし、できますか?” Nikunashi, dekimasuka? Can you make it without meat? And she turns to me, in confusion. After a moment, she replies. “But, this is a basashi restaurant..”

I’ve mentioned this before, about how every prefecture, even every town, has a specialty, or multiple specialties. Oita has the toriten that I told you about (the rare chicken), and it has yuzu, a green citrus fruit, and Kumamoto has ikinari dango, and basashi. Among other things. Basashi is horse meat. They eat it raw and they eat it cooked. I’ve had it both ways and cooked is definitely better. Being a specialty, you don’t eat basashi often, and you can’t just get it anywhere. Most people usually only eat it for New Years. It’s a delicacy, you could say. So you can imagine what this woman is thinking, when this guy walks in here, to her specialty basashi restaurant, and tells her, leave out the basashi, and this after ordering the most expensive thing on the menu without reading it, because he’s hungry. Whatever she was thinking in that moment, she had no problem accommodating me, and after confirming that I was fully aware of what I was asking of her, she set off to make it. So, our relationship was already off to a fun start, her and I’s.

Now my friends and I are sitting, talking, waiting for the food, and after a few minutes, Annie’s bowl comes. I could say that Annie’s noodles came, but in that moment, the noodles were the farthest thing from my mind. What was on my mind, then, was not the noodles, but the bowl, because the second that I had laid eyes on that bowl, I was struck with a thought, and the thought was this – That is a really nice bowl. On reflection, I realized that I have never been struck by a bowl in this way. I wonder if I ever will again. But this bowl, as soon as I saw it, I was aware of it, it’s quality, it’s shape. To me, it looked just like the shell of a conch snail, like the queen conch I had spent some time working with on my study abroad in Belize. It was large and layered and spiraling. It was a nice bowl. And I comment on this to my friends. “That’s a nice bowl!” I say. They look at it, and give some slight nods of agreement, a pretty muted response. As Annie goes in for the first slurp, and I’m still watching it. I say to them, “It looks just like a snail’s shell!” Annie looks at it one more time. “Yeah..!” She says, noncommittally. It’s clear that I’m the only one so moved by this bowl, but it does not frustrate me. I think more about the bowl. How I’ve never felt this way about a bowl. It is a fine piece of craftsmanship. Where did it come from? Custom made? Did they make it themselves? My bowl comes. I then note the size – it’s a sizeable bowl, larger than any of mine. A great size. As I’m eating, I make yet another comment to my friends. “This is such a nice bowl!” And then I added, half-jokingly, “I wonder if they’ll sell it to me!” And Annie replies, “You should try!” And at first, it wasn’t a serious thought, not entirely. But after her response, I realized – I should try. This bowl could be mine, and all I have to do is ask. The shopkeeper must already think I’m somewhat ridiculous. I would only be living up to the first impression I’d created for myself, by straight-up asking her if I could buy this bowl. I have nothing to lose, and a bowl to gain. And so, the next time she walked by, I caught her attention. “Excuse me..” “Yes?” “This is a really nice bowl. I was wondering, uh.. can I buy it?” My friends are now laughing, but I’m not – I’m completely serious. The shopkeeper is unsure what to say. She thinks about it for a moment. “Well, I’ve never sold a bowl before.. and they’re all used. Is that ok?” I reply, “No problem.” She thinks for another second. “Ok,” she says. “Just a moment.” She goes into the back of the store.

I am surprised. It’s farther than I thought I’d get. I turn to my friends. She’s going to sell me the bowl! And now the question is forming in my mind. What will I pay for this bowl? What is my maximum? What can she get me for? I try to come up with a good number, if she asks me for a price. I want the bowl. Clearly, I am moved by it. I am impressed with the quality, the design. I am also not a man who knows anything about pottery or bowl-making, and so I have no idea what the real worth of this bowl is. 1000円?4000円? I can’t tell, but I settle on 2000 being my maximum (that’s about $20), although I probably would go for 2500, if it came to it. If she asks me to give a price, I don’t want to offend her, either. If I go too low, maybe she’ll think I’m not even worthy of having the bowl after all. I’m not trying to rip her off – I want to give her a good price for the bowl. I’m thinking about these things when she comes out from the back and walks over to me. “Ok,” She says. “I have a bowl. It’s used. You’re ok with that?” I say again yes, and then I ask the question. “How much?” Hoping she doesn’t have me name a price. Wondering if I’d really hold to my maximum. She thinks for a moment, then says, tentatively, “Mmm, 500円?” And I couldn’t believe it. “Really?” I said. For that price, I’d buy five, ten of these babies. I almost told her then that I’d pay more for it, and part of me felt like I really should give her more for such a magnificent bowl.. but I said nothing more than an emphatic, “Yes!”

For having never sold a bowl before, she knew how to wrap it. I walked out of there with my new bowl, bubble-wrapped and encased in cardboard, feeling like a brand new man. As we left, I said my many arigatougozaimasu, and promised that I’d be back. Bowl aside, the noodles were incredible. And I’ve since been back, and I made sure to thank her again for the bowl, and to tell her that I use it every day. I think like me she must have a fond memory of that day, because it can’t be often that one of her customers orders takeout without wanting takeout, requests basashi-less noodles, and asks to buy a bowl, all in the same visit. I told Mr. Parker Junior about the bowl, and the story, and when he finally got to see it, I said “What do you think?” And I don’t think he was too impressed with it. But whether it impresses anyone else or not, that doesn’t matter. It will always be a special bowl for me, not just because it is functionally and aesthetically flawless, but because it also has something else, something better: a story.

So, that’s the end of the bowl story. It came out to be about eight pages of fully baked thoughts. I feel like a weight has been lifted off my shoulders. This is a significant moment, an achievement, a milestone in this blog’s history. The day the bowl story was finally told!

I’ve already written so much. I wanted to talk a bit about the clothes. I don’t want to write much now. My hand is cramping. For now, I’ll just say this. I am investigating. This is a complex issue. I’ve since bought a sweater and a pair of pants. Expensive, somewhat. Made in Japan. The pants were 100% cotton. Where does the cotton come from? The sweater was 66% synthetic fiber. On synthetic fibers – 35% of the microplastics in the ocean come from synthetic textiles (according to a report from the International Union for Conservation of Nature). We absorb toxins from these textiles through our skin. Not good stuff. There is a lot to consider. I also bought some secondhand clothes. Did you know that only 10% of the clothing in secondhand stores is sold (as of 2015)? I’m starting to acquire a lot of little facts like this.

Anyways, that’s it for this post. It’s the holidays! Ho ho ho! I should be writing about Japanese Christmas. I can sum this up in a single paragraph. They like Kentucky Christmas (ordering KFC takeout on Christmas). Last Christmas and All I Want For Christmas Is You are the two most popular Christmas songs here. Japanese snowmen have two balls in their body. None of my students know the name of the reindeer with the shiny red nose. They also don’t know that Santa lives in the North Pole, or that he’s married. Most of them don’t know that bad children get coal for Christmas. Some of them know that people give Santa milk and cookies. Some of them know that the toys are made by elves. (When I pose this question to my students, “Who makes the toys for Santa?” I often get the answer, “Small human.”) Only kids get presents, in Japan, and the parents usually put the presents on their pillows, even when they have a Christmas tree. Some people put up lights and decorations on their houses, but not most. They do not know about gingerbread houses or gingerbread cookies. They do know about stockings, and snowball fights. I have told my students that they should get presents for their parents for Christmas, and I don’t think anyone is going to take me up on that suggestion. Home Alone is popular. I guess that’s a Christmas movie? I didn’t know that. I’m not a movie guy. I have surprised more than a few Japanese people by telling them that I haven’t seen Back To The Future.

Ok, this is the end for real. I hope you had a Merry Christmas and are gearing up for a fantastic New Year. Happy Holidays, and unless the hot fire of inspiration strikes me before then, see you in 2021!

Part 2 – The Fall (Destruction of the Back, moving on with life, chilblains, Kappas) 背中の破壊

Howdy ho buckaroos.

I think about you guys. That’s really why I’m writing this post right now. As opposed to say, in a week, or a month from now, when I might finally get around to writing because I feel worked up about something and want to spin another story. But this time, I’m writing because I feel a bit guilty, I suppose, and because with time passing, there will be no difference in the outcome of the post regarding “The Fall,” and so I need to just get on with it. I also think I should stop making you guys so many promises about future stories, but maybe just for my sake it’s a good way to keep me accountable, and not let too much time pass between posts.

So, I promised you a part 2, and here we go! (Don’t ask me about the bowl story, one thing at a time now.)

The Fall. I tried to write about this twice, actually, and each time I sat down and wrote a few hundred words or so, attempting to craft an epic, full of irony and intrigue and life lessons and cultural education and yada yada, and both times it just wasn’t working. And I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s just not going to work, that way, and all that really needs to be said is this: I threw out my back while playing in the sensei handball tournament. And there you go. Throwing out your back sucks. I couldn’t move for two days without going, “Ohhh!!” or “Ah!!!” And the people around me would turn to me in surprise and concern. Almost every sensei I knew was in the building that day, because out of the four schools that I teach at, three were there, and so they all bore witness to my thrown back. The senseis who weren’t there, of course, still found out about it, because someone felt the need to announce it at the all-hands meeting (at least at Shoyo), or they had a spouse who was playing (at Kuroishibaru) and so all day I had teachers who weren’t even at the handball coming up to me and saying, “Your back.. ok?” And finally I asked Nakamura sensei, who is a charming home economics teacher, how did she know about it, and she told me it was announced at their morning meeting, I guess as a heads up, so that no one expected any piggyback rides to class, or wanted to have a quick passing period wrestling match. I was treated very well by all teachers, and I do feel extremely lucky to have such a supportive group of people around me. Everyone was bringing me treats, asking me how I was, telling me their personal remedies for thrown back (in Japanese, ぎっくり腰 (gikkurigoshi, another word I will never forget, like shorui, the special papers), and sympathizing with me. Last year, the handball tournament was a moment of peaking for me, scoring many goals, and having a good time bonding with the teachers, and demonstrating my worth, physically, winning the ganbaru trophy in the end (remember this word?). This year, I spent almost all of it on the floor, shivering, surrounded by small children, who became my good friends, by the end of the day, and I thought, that’s really just fitting given how totally wacky this year has been, compared to my last year. It’s hard to imagine that I’m still in the same place, at the same job, as I was just a year ago, because it feels so different, but I know everyone is going through this, the corona days, and we just deal with it how we do. And going on about the shivering on the floor, the floor was ice cold, I may as well have been laying on a sheet of ice, and I was the only person who was stupid enough to wear shorts that day, which I noticed when we took to the floor to warmup, and I have to admit I felt a little superior, like a, well I’m just strong! type feeling, although it was really just because I only have a single pair of sweatpants and I had run in them several times already, and they were not clean in any way, and so I just thought I’d bear it out in shorts, but that turned out to be the wrong move, as I spent the rest of this day on an ice cold floor. And with each shiver, I would groan with pain. And for the next several days, the moment before every sneeze was a moment of terror, and the sneeze itself, pain. But, what I wanted to get back to again was this, that the senseis are incredibly considerate, and they took pity on the poor American that they had inherited, and saw how he shivered, in his pair of shorts, and found all the spare warm things that they had, and by the end of the day he was clothed in Fukukoucho sensei’s jacket, Kawaguchi sensei’s pants, and Nishida sensei’s jacket and blanket.

I had made friends with several small children that day, who were one of the sensei’s kids, and who continually brought me treats. The first time they brought me treats, they approached me very cautiously, like one might approach a starving, wounded bear, and placed the treats at a distance where I could reach them if I just stretched out for them, coming no closer. I asked the youngest girl, who had just turned five, what her name was, and her mom told her to say her name, and she says, “Yuna.” And then I said, “Thank you Miss Yuna.” And her mom whispered to her, “Say you’re welcome!” And the girl just shook her head. But the third time that they came to me, she looked at me, summoning a bit more courage, and smiled playfully, and said to me, “Do you want to play tag?” And this just blew my mind. I could only laugh. It was so innocent. I was laying on my stomach, because it was only slightly more comfortable than being on my back, and I was craning to look up at her, and I felt like some sort of enormous turtle, washed up on land, hardly able to move, and as I am craning up laying belly down on this freezing floor, she asked me if I wanted to play tag. What she really asked me was, “Onigokoshitai?” Which is, “Do you want to play Oni Gokko?” Which is the Japanese version of tag, where someone is the oni (demon) and the other kids run from the oni. And after a second of just wondering how to respond to her, I said, “Yes, but I am not a very strong oni.”

After the tournament Nishida sensei did take me to a massage. It was the first massage I’ve ever had. Professionally. It was 1500円 for 30 minutes, which is crazy, right? So cheap. I’ve been meaning to go back, but I can’t seem to justify it.

That’s about everything I wanted to say with the destruction of the back, “The Fall.” I have to say that I do feel like it was a positive thing in that it brought a lot of other people enjoyment. And I can now sympathize with everyone who’s ever had a thrown back. I told all of my classes that I had gikkurigoshi, and that I don’t recommend it, and I asked them all if they’ve ever had it, and they were like.. no. Which I’ve also done recently with my frostbite, because yes, I’ve gotten frostbite.

Winter is here in Kumamoto. The season has been here for a while now, since early, mid-November you could say that the season had really begun to shift. It’s very interesting how our bodies respond to the shift. For me, personally, I’ve noticed that I hardly play piano anymore, I read much more, and I eat less. The eating thing is also partially because I made a conscious decision to lose some of this chub I’ve acquired, and because I’ve found that fasting gives me a little bit of a cognitive boost, and I’m exploring what that’s all about. Winter in Kumamoto is interesting. Kumamoto is at about the same latitude as Los Angeles or San Francisco (just glancing at my trusty Google Maps). It has a warm and temperate climate. Actually a website has told me that it is most similar to North Carolina. Right now, there are still many flowers in bloom, although it has gotten significantly colder in the past week or so. The sun sets earlier and earlier, and is now setting at around 5 o’clock, which is damn early. I don’t like this season, but there is one thing about it that almost makes it all worth it, and that is the sunsets. The dusk sky here is absolutely incredible. Almost every night I’m thinking to myself, my god this is the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen. It really is that beautiful. The palette of colors is just unbelievable, every shade of pink and red and orange and yellow and purple and blue and light blue that you could imagine. My pictures never do it justice. It does make me think that we are really missing out on something by not being able to see the full, raw majesty of the night sky, every night. I have seen the night sky in its full beauty once, and I still think about it. I wonder how that would change us as people, if we could look on that every night, once again. I am really serious about that. When I look at that setting sun, and the way it paints the entire sky in this incredible array of colors, I feel comforted, and small, in a good way, like there are things in this universe that are just bigger and more beautiful than me.

Then, later in the night, I check my phone, thinking it must be about nine o’clock, and it’s only six thirty, and I think, wow, this is just terrible.

Another thing I wanted to get at about differences in winter in Kumamoto and Indiana, is the way that the people deal with it. Winter in Kumamoto is not that bad. It only snowed a few times last year, and it never stuck. There are no icy roads, there’s no snow days, or closures due to dangerously low temperatures. Now, combine that with the Japanese spirit of gaman (endurance), or ganbaru (perseverance, fighting, I mentioned before) and you will not be surprised by what I am about to say, which is that when it comes to the winter there is a great deal of just, endurance. The insulation in my apartment is horrible. The schools are not heated, usually. The girls are still wearing skirts. They actually are required to wear skirts until December. Meanwhile, I’m wearing my Uniqlo heat-tech thermal underwear, and my sweater, and sometimes my coat. Everywhere is colder than it usually is, because the windows are all wide open, to bring in the fresh air, a preventative measure against corona. I sit right by a window, at Shoyo, and all day yesterday, as I sat at my desk, I was having a nice, comforting, frigid winter breeze blow over me. And also, from yesterday, I can give you a great example of this spirit of endurance, which is, from this example, perhaps indoctrinated into the students while they’re in school. Yesterday was the Shoyo high school’s culture festival, and for that, we gathered all the students, and sat them down on the gym floor, in front of a screen, to watch recorded performances, for almost two hours. All of the doors and windows are open. The gym floor is ice cold. It is a cold day. And all of the students are sitting there, on that ice cold floor, in their thin ankle socks, and the girls in their skirts. And here I am in all my cold-gear, and I’m still cold. And everyone is saying, samui! samui! (It’s cold!) We’re all in agreement about this fact. And I’m watching them, sitting there, shivering, reminding me of my recent experience with a cold gym floor, and I’m thinking.. why are we doing this? What is the point of this? There is a better way.

So I tell you this, so that you can see that while winter in Kumamoto is not as cold, and does not have the same problems, it is still winter, with it’s early darkness, and bearing the cold, and waiting it out. And, with the way things are here, you may find it easier to understand how I’ve been able to get frostbite, here, and have never had it once in Indiana, where the winters are much harsher.

The frostbite story is basically this – at the beginning of this week, my left foot started getting itchy. On Tuesday, it was bad enough that I noticed it, and thought about it, several times in the day, and would wiggle my toes around, but not to the point where I had to scratch it, or thought much about it, as in that there could be something actually wrong. On Wednesday, however, it reached the point where my entire concentration would be disrupted, by the severe itchiness, and at one point I thought, actually, what the hell is going on down there, and so sitting at my desk, I took off my shoe, and sock, and took a good look at my foot. I noticed that my toes were red, shiny, and just the slightest bit inflamed. With the amazing power of the internet, I had a potential answer in less than two minutes – I just searched, “itchy toes in winter” and I found what appeared to be my problem. At least, the toes in the pictures I was looking at were perfectly identical to the toes that were attached to my feet, and so I thought, this seems to be it. However, genius google said that my problem was chilblains, which I’m not sure if is exactly frostbite, or a symptom of it, but either way, it sounded like something that happened to people hundreds of years ago, living in wooden homes, or adventurers out in the arctic, or mountain climbers, and not to an English teacher in Kumamoto, who has lived in a much colder place, and has never had it before. So, one of the perks of working at a school, I walked right downstairs, and asked the nurse about it. She took a look at it, and she said, do you know about shimoyake? And I said, no. And she went over to the computer and typed it in, and she said, “Furosutobaito.” (Frostbite.) And that was it. She gave me some magic cream, which really helped, and she told me to go buy a pair of slippers, because my apartment was too cold, and my feet were too cold. And I was quite surprised, because I didn’t think it was that cold in my apartment, to the point where I’d be getting frostbite, because you know, I still associate that with snow, and ice, and mountains, and such things, but that night when I got back to the apartment, I realized just how damn cold my floor really was, and that my poor feet really must have been frozen, and have been freezing. And I promptly bought a pair of slippers, and when I take them off I’m struck again by how cold the floor is.

I again told all of my classes about this. It went the same way as my gikkurigoshi story. Recently I’ve gotten shimoyake. Or, in English, frostbite. Have you ever gotten frostbite? And they all just look at me like, no, Steven sensei, and what are you doing in your life, that you’re having all these problems?

To me, chilblains just sounds like a word out of a totally different era. I’ve never heard that word before. I’ve never heard of anyone having it. It comes from a time when people put coal in their furnace, or had milk delivered to their door in bottles, or rode a carriage to town. I do feel kind of special for having had it, now.

I know I’m writing a lot here, and I’m not sure if this is all that interesting to you. This will be the last thing I write, for this post, and maybe it will be interesting, but please don’t judge me too much, for this, because I’m going to tell you this in confidence.

On Friday, I was at Shoyo, and I was talking to my friend, Hiroyuki sensei, who is a geography teacher, a young buck, who will be going to teach in Tokyo after this year. He is slender, likes English, has large glasses, and is always teaching me interesting things, and we both like history, so we have good conversations. He is very cat-like, to me, and it’s hard for me to offer a lot of concrete examples of what I mean, here, but you know what cats are like, so just imagine that Hiroyuki sensei is kind of like that. He approaches my desk in the way that a cat might approach you when you’re out and about, one that wants pets, but is alright if it doesn’t get them, or one that is just curious in you, and is coming up to get a better look, and may want to be petted, if it likes what it sees, or if you’re interested, in giving it a pet. Not that Hiroyuki sensei is wanting to be petted, but, you know what I mean. He is cat-like, alright? Anyways, I was talking to him about some Japanese authors, and why Japanese commit seppuku (an honor suicide through stabbing oneself through the stomach with a short sword and then being decapitated), and then Japanese suicides in general, and he was telling me about Kawabata Yasunari, a Noble Prize winning Japanese author, who tried to commit suicide three times, succeeding on the third time, and how in one of his interviews, he made the interviewer cry just by staring at her. Which is when I learned the word, 目力 (mejikara), literally meaning “eye power.” The next day I asked Goto sensei about this story, and she told me that, apparently he stared at her for about thirty minutes, without talking, and then she finally broke down crying. So, it goes without saying, I’d like to read some of his work.

But, in a lull in our conversation, and Hiroyuki sensei is wondering if he should get on with his business, or let me get on with mine, it strikes me to tell him something. I say to him, Hiroyuki sensei, I have a secret. And he goes, oh. I know I can trust him with this secret, and so I tell him, that I’ve been wearing the exact same clothes every day this week (it was Friday). He laughs, and offers some surprise, but mostly interest. I tell him a lot of strange things, so I think he isn’t all that surprised by what comes out of my mouth anymore. I told him about how I don’t really have a lot of clothes, especially warm clothes, and that now that it’s winter, my clothes don’t dry in a day, so I can’t just wash them at night and wear them the next day, and how my suit has gotten a little too small, and how I can pull this off because there are no days where I go to the same school two days in a row, and so I have now found myself wearing the same pair of clothes every day. And he offered that, because it’s winter, we’re also not really sweating, so you don’t smell bad, and I agreed. And then he asked me, what are you going to wear tomorrow? Which is exactly what I had been thinking about earlier that day, because that did present a little bit of a problem, as I would be coming to Shoyo two days in a row, and then it’d be a little risky to wear the exact same pair of clothes to the same school, and so I did have to make a change, somehow. And I ended up wearing jeans, which was the first time I’ve worn jeans to the school, but it was a special day, and they were nice jeans, and so it went well. But that got me thinking, as well as a recent conversation with my mom, who was horrified by this story, that I should probably buy a few more clothes. And that is my goal for today. But, as a final bit, I’d like to explain why it is that I don’t have many clothes, because you might think, like my mom, that I don’t care about my appearance, but that’s not true, because I do. I’m actually very conflicted about clothes, and the wearing of clothes, and so this has become somewhat of a confusing issue for me, and has lead to some paralysis, I would say, on the issue. I seem to be able to come up with points arguing for and against the necessity of clothes, and I go down a path that ends up leaving me with no answers. For example – frugality is a virtue. It is good not to be wasteful. And it is good not to have more than you need. Right? To only buy what you need, or what will really benefit you. I think about that, and I try to live that out, although I think I could be doing a much better job of it. So, I have to ask myself the question, do I need new clothes? And that’s actually a tricky question to answer. You can see that I can wear the same clothes every day, and get away with it, although I might totally be an idiot here, and everyone has noticed that I am in fact wearing the same clothes each day. But then, is there anything wrong with that? Inherently? No, right? I don’t smell. They’re clean. I look presentable. They’re nice clothes. So, why should I change them every day? Now, here we get into the realm of, it’s for the people, to keep up a good impression. I don’t want anyone to think I’m sloppy, or that I don’t care about my appearance, or whatever judgement they may draw from this. So, clothing is certainly important, in striking a good impression others. But, at the same time, how good is it to judge another based on their clothes? How good is it to judge others based on their physical appearances at all, for that matter? I think it is true that you can make inferences about someone based on their physical characteristics, but those inferences may turn out to be totally false, and so in that case, is this a good habit? Now, reasonably, most people probably do not go so far to assess whether their impressions of another based on their physical characteristics are accurate ones or not, and that would really be impossible to do with everyone anyway. You meet so many people, and some meetings are so brief, and it is important to be able to make judgements, to navigate through the incredible amount of information that we’re trying to process at any given moment, and you have to have something to go off of, and many of your judgements are subconscious anyway, and can’t even be really scrutinized, not readily. So then, it is good to dress in a way that you you maximize that chance that someone will have a good impression of you, because, it’s just smart. But, at the same time, if we only judge based on what we see on the surface, we may judge incorrectly. I suppose that I don’t want to fall into any habit of thinking that someone is in any way superior to another just by the way of their appearance. So this is one thing that I think about, when I think about clothing, along with whether or not I even really need the clothing.

I would also touch on that everyone, or almost everyone, must feel good when they wear new clothes, that make them feel sexy, and confident. And of course, those are good things. And humans have been dressing themselves for a long time, and appearances are important in signaling your status, and health, your good genes, really. But, is confidence inspired through clothing, true confidence? Is it well-placed confidence? What has really changed about you, except that you now are going to be perceived as being more attractive, or say, more successful, or however you will be perceived, or however you think you will be, because I suppose what matters more is how you think you’ll be perceived, rather than how you are, in terms of self-confidence. You see what I mean, right? Is confidence based in clothing any kind of true confidence? What would happen to you if your head was shaved and you were dressed in rags? Would you be able to carry yourself with the same dignity? But inside, you are the same person, are you not? So I don’t how I should feel about buying new clothes just to look good. Now, that is the more detached way of looking at it, or, non-emotional, and it doesn’t do anything to change the fact that I feel fresh when I get a good haircut, when I swap out my shoes for ones that I think are cooler. And, I wouldn’t go as far as to say that anyone should feel guilty, or shouldn’t feel confident in their new clothes either. And I do think that dressing is a form of expression, and that is a way to show some personal style, artistry. I guess, looking at it from that standpoint, of self-expression, then it becomes something more.

So, I think about these things, and don’t come to any definite conclusions, and this is before I’ve even set out to buy new clothes. Now let’s say that I’ve decided to get some new clothes, because I want to change the way other people think about me, strike them in a different way, perhaps change the way I feel about myself, shake up my image. I know you can say that it’s just fun to buy clothes, too, but that can be a double edged sword, right. Now actually, before we buy the clothes, there is something else to consider about needing new clothes and about deciding if you really need new clothes. When you get clothes, they have to come from somewhere. The material has to be grown, or made. That takes a field, or a factory. Someone has to put your clothes together. Who is that someone? What kind of wages are they getting? What kind of rights do they have, as a worker? What are their working conditions? Are the clothes you’re buying perpetuating a cycle of suffering, or are they elevating someone out of poverty, giving them economic opportunity? This is thinking about the person – then, think about the planet. How much of an environmental cost went into making this product? What kind of land was cleared for the field for the material? Or for the factory? What volume of greenhouse gases were emitted in the act of bringing this product, and all the different pieces of it, all of the steps that were required to assemble it, to you? Is it worth it, then, for you to buy it? Are you doing net good, or net bad, with this purchase?

Should you buy secondhand? You can circumvent all of these considerations when you buy secondhand. But, what if I don’t want the secondhand? Or, it takes too much time? It’s hit or miss, right? Or what I want is something I just can’t find at a secondhand store? Well, you can still buy something new, but it has to be done with care, doesn’t it?

So, it’s much easier to avoid doing any harm, or headache, for me, by not buying. If we had organizations, government bodies, responsible companies, that we could trust were being fair to the worker, were supporting environmentally responsible practices, materials, etc., then it’d be much easier to buy new things. (I know they’re out there, those companies, and I mean to do some research, but for these companies you probably have to buy online to get their products, and then you can’t try the clothes on, or if they don’t fit you have to send them back, a whole other can of worms.) If the transport chain wasn’t helping to destroy the earth. If my buying these things is also my buying into a culture that tells me that I need more to keep up cultural or societal norms, a culture that is complicated and that I am still not sure about, but am learning more towards, it’s not a good one. In one of my school’s English textbooks, I was reading about the lives of Japanese people living during the Edo period. I believe it was the Edo period. 1603-1868. Edo is the old name for Tokyo, also, fun fact. It was a period of time where people made use of every little thing that they had. People repaired broken things. People reused, recycled, their food waste, their old tatami mats, even their poop. Actually, their poop was regarded as highly valuable, because it was some of the best fertilizer. I think about that, and then I think about how, when I was a substitute teacher, I would watch a third of the kids in a class throw away their breakfast without touching it. A sugary, crap breakfast, made with plastic. I think about how, when I used to work at Menards, I watched them throw away bags of dog food, door locks, mattresses that might have been used once, just because the packaging was damaged, or it wasn’t new, and the employees couldn’t take it (policy), and the store could write any such good off with the distributor, without considering it a loss. I think about how our wanton use of fertilizers has led to massive algal blooms, that consume all oxygen in the shore waters, and lead to massive die-offs of ocean life, and we are not immune either, as the poisons infiltrate the food chain, our water supply, and end up tucked away, nice and safe in the recesses of our bodies, where they can wreck our sperm counts, cause cancer, and deform newborns. I am all for progress, but I want responsible progress. I don’t want to contribute to, to be a part of a culture that so shamelessly and recklessly wastes, poisons, and destroys.

I think about all of this, and then it becomes very hard for me to want to buy anything, beyond what I really need. I wish it was easier to do this, but this culture is kind of a core feature of the systems that are essential to our lives. When I buy my groceries at the store, I take my avocados as they are, I don’t put them in a plastic bag. If I go through the cashier-assisted checkout, they’ll put my avocados in a small plastic bag, if I don’t stop them. Why do they do that? There’s no point to it.

I guess we’ve just totally perverted things. Our way of living is totally out of balance with the natural world. I know that you could consider humans a product of the natural world, and so by extension, it’s impossible for us to do anything that isn’t natural. It’s all natural. So maybe, a better word to use isn’t natural, but healthy. And thinking not just in terms of human health, but in terms of planetary healthy, ecological health. And to think that our health is not tied to the health of the natural systems that we live in, is hubris, right? I’m thinking back to how we can’t see the stars at night. What are we sacrificing in the sake of progress? In the sake of convenience?

I will be thinking about all of this when I go out to buy clothes today. I now have talked myself out of what little desire to do this I had – but the thought of another week of wearing the same outfit is driving me onwards. If you have any thoughts about these issues, because I’m sure I’m not alone in thinking like this, please comment or say something to me. Anything that strikes you or you’d like to bring up.

Anyways, that’s my little Sunday post. I really have to get going on. It is a really beautiful day today. I was just talking about my frostbite, but’s warm enough today that you could almost get away with being out in a t-shirt. At least, I’m sitting outside in a flannel and jeans and feeling a bit warm. There probably won’t be many more days like this until the spring, soon.

I will leave you with this promise – the next post, I am going to tell you the bowl story. Yes, I really will. Whether you’re tired of me talking about it or not, I have to make this promise, for both of us. So I will. Until then!

UPDATE: I went shopping. I bought two pairs of socks. Made in Japan. I found a shirt that I really liked. 100% wool. Made in China. I didn’t buy it. I met one of my English club girls, Green peas, as I was leaving. She’s cute, always laughing. She tried to get me to speak Japanese with her, I wouldn’t do it. They don’t have many opportunities to speak English with a native English speaker, and I’m going to make sure they do it. Also, it’s fun for me to play dumb.

The Rise and Fall of Steven Swanson (Part 1 – Emergence From the Marathon as a Man Triumphant) 誇らしげな人

Hello. Good evening.

I am writing this fourth post. It’s not what I imagined I would be writing about.

How these blog entries take shape.. it seems that they are mainly born out of amusement. At least this one definitely is. Amusement and, suffering.

You might think I am talking about the marathon. I’m sure you want to hear about that. And that is an important part of this post, because you need it help understand “The Fall.” As I’ve titled this post, in my life, in the span of ten days, there has been a rise and fall, and they are both related to my physical state.

First, I’ll tell you about the marathon. Did I die? Did I bleed? Cry? Run the entire time? The last one is correct. Surprisingly, the marathon (I shouldn’t really call it that, it wasn’t a marathon, it was 30 km, I’m going to just refer to it as the marathon, although I could also refer to it at the Charrenji Taikai, meaning “Challenge Tournament/Event”, which is what it is called at Ozu High). That was an incredibly long paragraphed insertion.. I’ll start a new sentence. Sorry this is kind of time wasting, but I have to say that I now find that I have an abundance of time of my hands, due to “The Fall.” And I’m having a lot of fun writing that. Unlike the bowl story, I will actually tell you about this, in this very post. So let’s continue.

The “marathon” was fine. Fun. Enjoyable. Not death. Actually, hardly even any suffering. I think this is largely attributable to the fact that I started the race with the first year girls, and specifically, my English club girls, who are all first years. This was much better for me, and my survival, than if I had started with, say, the first year boys, or the athletes, and I was asked if I wanted to join the athlete group, which I thought about for as short as it’s possible to think about something, without not thinking about it at all, and said, “No.” This is because the first year girls, and especially my English club girls, except for Kanochan, are not fast. They were actually far below average, in terms of their finishing times. So in the beginning, which may have been a treacherous time, for an overly excited first time marathon runner, I was shepherded, perhaps protected against my own untrained and incorrect instincts, which would have been, if I had been with the athletes or even the first year boys, to try and keep pace with some of them, and sacrifice a lot of energy, that would have left me coming up empty before the finish.

So the first year girls were slow, and essentially the opposite scenario happened, which was that I went quite slowly in the beginning, and gradually increased speed, until I found myself burning through my abundance of energy at the end, finishing in a sprint with another first year boy, Takemura kun who I think humored me by letting me somewhat close to him, and then ultimately asserting dominance and dusting me at the end.

Highlights from the marathon..

Japanese people have a flexible and useful word – ganbaru. 頑張る This is a fundamental word in the world of the Japanese. This is a very important word. This word is I’m sure used millions of times a day every day in Japan. What does it mean? Ganbaru is flexible, and for that reason it is a little hard to directly translate it. Here are some of the meanings that I’ve just taken from my trusty favorite dictionary: to persevere; to persist; to keep at it; to hang on; to hold out; to do one’s best. To me, these definitions don’t quite capture the feeling of it, because there are many times when someone will say Ganbatte, or ganbattekudasai, which is a command, or a “please ganbaru” when you might wonder why they’re saying it, as you don’t really feel like you need to be told to persevere, or hang in there, because you’re not currently struggling. Maybe what I’m trying to get at is it’s used pretty casually, but it also can have power behind it, and it just depends on the situation. Maybe the Japanese like this word so much because they are a people of persistence, and I do think that they feel like the answer to many of life’s difficulties is to persevere, and never give up (I learned recently of the Japanese proverb, fall seven times and get up eight). This feeling is embodied in other words that the Japanese favor, such as the phrases shouganai, and shikataganai, which means “it can’t be helped” and “there’s nothing we can do about it.” But I am thinking of one of my friends, who feels that Japanese people are sometimes too quick to use these words, who said, when she was told “shouganai” she was thinking, “But yes! Yes, it can be helped!” And it could be that this mindset leads to one putting up with more than they are truly able to bear, or feeling that they do not have the power to change their own circumstances, when they may. And while I’m on this, I’m also thinking about a theme, or an ideology, I’m not entirely sure what you call a thing like this, that came up often in my book, Japanese Fairy Tales. This theme is that of obligation, and I’m thinking specifically of two of the tales. In one, the obligation is towards the neighbor, and in the other, it is towards the step-mom, but in both cases the level of obligation is the same, and it is essentially that one should respect whom they are obliged to, whether the parent, or the neighbor, or perhaps a member of the royal family, and bear all injustices, and oblige all whims and desires, no matter how absurd or unreasonable, willingly and without complaint. In one of the stories, the main character has a special dog, a very good boy, who finds him some gold, and his neighbor wants to borrow the dog and find some gold too, but the dog just finds some buried trash, and the neighbor gets angry and kills the dog, and the main character is just like, “Oh, my dog!” And he’s very sad, but there’s no anger towards the neighbor, who actually killed his dog. And several such things happen, where the neighbor wrongs the main character, and the main character never blames the neighbor, and continues to oblige him because he is, after all, his neighbor, and so he must. And then the main character is rewarded in the end, and the scumbag neighbor gets his just-desserts. In the other story as well, the main character shows unyielding obligation and is rewarded in the end. I’m not sure how old these stories are but they’re quite old, so this is an aspect of the culture that has deep roots, and is probably why Japanese people may put up with more than they maybe should put up with, at times.

That was a tangent, and is not necessary at all for what I wanted to tell you about the marathon – all you really needed to know was that Japanese people have translated Ganbaru into English as “fight.” Which is funny, because that means in all the situations where they want to use ganbaru, but they also want to speak English, they will say “Fight.” And I think that most Japanese people (by now) know that this is a little strange, or at least funny, but they’re not sure what to say instead, and also it generally gets the point across, and so they say, “Fight.” As an example, I may be sitting at my desk in the morning, and a teacher will say to me (at least in the early days when they knew that I generally understood almost no Japanese) “How many classes do you have today?” And I’ll say, “3.” Or 2. Or whatever. Doesn’t matter. Then, they’ll say, “Fight.” And that’s funny, right. Especially when my class schedule for the day consists entirely of playing English Jeopardy. I’m like.. Hase sensei, do you know what I’m doing today? I’m actually playing games all day. I am almost ashamed to say that I am doing nothing close to fighting today. And I say ashamed because these other teachers are not playing games all day, which is also rare for me, but there is no doubt that my workload is significantly lighter than theirs. So.. Japanese people say “Fight.” When they want to say ganbaru, and if they themselves are ganbaruing (ganbatteiru) they will say, “Fighting!” How is this related to the marathon?

As the native English speaker, it is my duty to expose the students to as much English as I can. For this reason, and because it was also very fun, I shouted at the other students, in the first half of the race, when they would pass me, or in the second half, when I would pass them, were things like – “You can do it!” or “Go go go!” or “Yes, great job, keep it up!” Stock motivational boosters like this. And what I would generally get in response was, “Fighting!” Or, “Ok!!” Or, “Bikkuri!” Which is what the students would say when I would stealthily jog up on them and then shout a stock motivational phrase in passing. (in this case it means, “Surprised!!”) As I got increasingly tired, I just decided to adopt what all the Japanese are using, and which is the shortest and easiest stock motivational booster, and that is “Fight!” Although for the larger groups of guys I would generally unleash my whole set of stock phrases. Anyways, I was just starting to unleash my stock motivational phrases, to maybe the three hundredth group of the day a group of four or five boys, and immediately one of them cuts me off and shouts, louder than any other student had responded that day, “NEVER GIVE UP!!!” I was simultaneously impressed and shocked. After so many of the same responses, it just didn’t see something like that coming. This is one of the joys of being an English teacher in Japan. There are times like this where you’re hit with some English that’s totally unexpected, that leaves you wondering, how do you know this? Why do you know this? Where did you learn this? And for me, in this moment in particular.. How did I manage to leave this out of my set of stock motivational phrases? So, from this moment on, which was probably for the last third of the marathon, I said only one thing – “Never give up!”

There are two other sources that come to mind when I think of entertaining English in Japan. One of those is from advertisements, products, T-Shirts, things like this. I can and should write an entire post about this. You could have a whole blog dedicated to this and I’m sure it’s out there. I have many pictures saved of such English. There were two large posters of a pretty lady I saw just a few weeks ago when driving, on the side of Pachinko parlor (a type of gambling establishment that is extremely popular in Japan – they are not arcades but they look like arcades and have tricked me several times, until I was given this bit of advice from a friend, “If it’s big, shiny, and looks like fun, it’s a Pachinko parlor.”) These posters were simply pictures of the pretty lady, with text at the bottom, and the text said, on the first poster, “It’s Nice season. What shall do now?” And on the second, “Let’s stay healthy today!” Which is interesting considering there are not many hobbies you could choose that would be more corrosive to your health than Pachinko.

Perhaps the greatest of the events that made their impression on me during the course of this marathon was one not actually related to running. It was unexpected, small, yellow, and delicious. It was a banana.

It won’t take long to explain this. (Every time I’ve ever written words such as that I have had to go back and delete them.) But really, this was a short and simple problem. I ran two thirds of the race with a partner in crime, Miss Iwamoto (or, translating that English, Origin of the Rock). Origin of the Rock was the only one to survive, or rather the only one that was willing to subject herself to matching my speed, out of the original group of first year girls that I started with. Origin of the Rock was about half my height, and was a good running partner, because she was from Ozu, and from a part that I knew nothing about, being kind of really in the boonies, and as we ran the course, she gave me little bits of knowledge about the neighborhoods, and their names, and local attractions or points of interest. I was glad to have her company, although I was really worried about her for most of this, wondering if she was really overexerting herself in trying to keep pace with me, and I would constantly ask her, are you alright, and she would say, “Daijyoubu, daijyoubu,” (I’m good, I’m good). Finally, when we came to the last major hill, and this baby was steep, she was not daijyoubu, and I did end up leaving her, which was sad for a brief moment, but I came to run, and run I would. But, before that, we had run a good deal of the marathon already, maybe we were around the halfway point, and we came up to a large rest stop. There were several of these stops along the way, manned by teachers, parents, and soccer players who were too valuable to risk being injured. (Ozu High School is one of the strongest soccer schools in Kumamoto – several of the players are from big cities like Tokyo and Osaka, there are probably over 100 students on the team (it’s run like a small army), there is a wall of signed jerseys and cleats by professional players that graduated from Ozu, I know at least one Ozu graduate went to play in the World Cup in 2008, all of these have had some impact on my decision to stay out of the Ozu soccer club) I was told there would be bananas along the way, and I was looking forward to it, to recharge my batteries, although I didn’t need it as much as I thought I would have before I started, because most of the girls running in the marathon had brought treats, and would give them to me, or swap them with each other, throughout the race, which was very wholesome, seeing these girls stop and swap their various candies and crackers with each other (“Do you want a caramel?” “Have some gummies!” “Ooh, you brought oranges? So smart!!”) So we come to this stop, Iwamoto and I, and we have a rest, and I get my banana, and she gets hers, and I promptly devour mine, and she does not promptly devour hers. And we’re hung out there for a bit, gotten a drink, had a rest, and I ask if she’s ready to go, and she says yes, and she still hasn’t eaten her banana. And so I think, ok, she’s saving it for later, provisional banana, got it. And we get started and I say, hey, I can hold that for you if you’d like, since she’s just running with it in her hand, and she already has a fanny pack, so I thought, why not. So from here, on we’re running, running, maybe a few kilometers pass, and at first I don’t mind, but as we go, I realize, I’m starting to get tired of holding this banana. When we get to the next small stop, we have another drink, and I say to her, hey, do you want to eat your banana now? And at this stop there are also bananas, so I’m thinking, this was kind of a waste of energy, carrying this. So I ask her if she wants to eat her banana, and she looks at me and shakes her head. “No,” she says. “It’s a present for you!” And I’m like.. what the hell is this! You’re telling me I carried this banana, all this way, for your sake, and now you’re giving it to me? This was certainly a twist. Did she panic when they were handing out bananas and took one without wanting it? Was her plan to give it to me the entire time? Did she ever have a plan for it at all? I don’t and didn’t have the answer to these questions and I don’t and didn’t need them – I just needed to figure out what I would do with this banana.

I couldn’t eat it – I was full off of the first banana, and off of the various treats I had received from these treat giving high school girls. I didn’t want to risk cramping or being uncomfortably full. My next thought was to set it with the other bananas. It was a perfectly good banana, entirely edible, and just slightly, maybe greatly, heated, from having been clutched by a jogger for thirty or so minutes. I wanted to just place it on the table of this next rest station, with all the other bananas, but there was a problem. The bananas were all set out in row on a table, and were being watched, by a flock of mothers, and there was no way for me to discreetly set it down without a high probability of it being noticed. And Japanese people are picky about their cleanliness, and their fruits, and with the shadow of corona ever-looming in the background, I just couldn’t bring myself to put that banana on the table. I also couldn’t bring myself to throw it away, because it was, after all, a perfectly good banana. I thought about flinging it into the woods, and decided against that too – and so, it appeared, that I was now stuck with this banana, and for the foreseeable future, until I either decided to eat it, or finished the race with it. With this realization solidifying in my mind, and the banana warming in my hand, Iwamoto and I returned to our marathon.

As we’re running, we’re starting to pass many students, who had started before us, but had since gotten too tired, and were now walking it. The students had a variety of strategies in the running the race. My favorite was the strategy adopted by two of my English club girls, one of them being Chinatsu, meaning “1000 summers,” who I call Hamachi, a type of fish. At our first English club meeting, I was getting to know the girls, and was having them do self-introductions, and asking random questions. I asked 1000 Summers what pet she would have, if she could have any animal as a pet, and she said, “A penguin.” And I said, “What would you name it?” And she said, “Ha-ma-chi.” And I said, “How much?” And she said, “Hamachi.” And her friends are giggling. And I thought, alright, I don’t get it, it’s a strange name, must be some kind of inside joke.. and I write down “Wants to have a penguin named How Much,” in my little notebook. Because you see, what I thought this girl was saying to me was “How Much”, pronounced in the way that Japanese will pronounce English when not trying to model correct pronunciation, ハーマッチ, but what she was actually saying to me, was actual Japanese, はまち, which is a fish. So I wrote down, “How Much,” and another girl sees this and she says, “No, no. Not how much, はまち!”

So that is Hamachi. She has actually since left the English club, for some inferior club that I can’t remember, I think soft tennis (it was months before I knew what this actually was, it’s tennis with a softer ball played on dirt courts). Her English club friend that she was running with, I call Green Peas, because her name is Saya, and saiyaendo means green peas. It’s not all that creative, my nicknames never are, but she likes it, I’m pretty sure. Anyways, Hamachi, Green Peas, and another friend, had adopted something of a HIIT style strategy. HIIT stands for High Intensity Interval Training, which is where you perform a high volume of work for a short period of time, and then rest, and then repeat. They would “sprint” (really just a quickened jog) for an indefinite period, walk, and then sprint again. This did not strike me as a winning strategy for 30 km run, but I didn’t question it, and who knows, maybe it was only phase one of their plan. I don’t know what the other phases were, as I didn’t see them, as I left them behind in the very early stages, but I don’t think they finished too long after me, so they didn’t do that bad. But this HIIT style was especially entertaining for me, because I when first ran up to them they were walking, and I shouted my stock motivational phrases, and they immediately entered into their high intensity state. This only lasted for fifteen or twenty seconds, when then they would resume their walk, and when Iwamoto and I had caught up to them, jogging at our constant pace, I would shout the stock motivational phrases again, and they would enter into another round of high intensity running. This continued for three or four rounds, with Iwamoto and I never changing speed, with them ending in a final sustained burst, and then giving up and falling behind us.

Why I’m even talking about this – student’s strategies, starting off with the banana in my hand, right. Iwamoto and I depart from the checkpoint, banana in hand (my hand), and we’re starting to now pass students who had started off strong, and had since burned out. And these kiddos still had a long way to go. As we pass them, I shout my stock motivational phrases (I guess I should just abbreviate it, SMP). Some of these students are holding their bananas, nourishment for the long journey ahead. As we pass one boy, he sees I’m holding a banana, and he holds up his banana, in solidarity, and says to me, “Yes banana!” We pass another two boys, who seem particularly winded, and I slow down and I ask them how they’re doing, and the one boy is sweating and out of breath, and he says repeatedly to me, “Sugoi, Americajin, sugoi. Sasuga, Americajin.” Which we can translate to, “Incredible, American, incredible. Just as I expected from an American.” Sasuga is a word that you use as like a “Just as I expected” but in a positive way, maybe more like, “I wouldn’t have expected anything less.” So, I’m not sure where or how he formed his image of the average American, but in that moment, to him I must have been living up to it. And I was glad that he had this image of us, and not another, that some others may hold, which is that a large proportion of us are large and in charge (obese). We’re working our way through this procession, overcoming the stragglers, passing a few checkpoints, and we come up to a fork in the road, and lo’ and behold, standing at the corner is my tantosha (supervisor, caretaker, guardian angel) Goto sensei. And in this situation, I would put her into the category of guardian angel, because as soon as I saw her I knew I had found the answer to my banana problem. As we jogged by, without breaking stride, I moved over to her, said, “A gift for you!” And put the banana snugly into her hands. There was no opportunity for questioning, no time for resistance – the banana was in her hands and out of mine in the blink of an eye. As I handed it to her, it struck me just how hot it had become. I think she said thank you, but Iwamoto and I were already making our escape by then. And so, the present had been passed on, and in this way I was relieved of my banana problem.

The bananas were an intimate part of the race. A group of girls, in their finishing dash, came through, triumphantly holding up their hands, and in their hands were bananas. One of the girls had four, I believe, two in each hand, and was holding them up in celebration, like she had just returned from a long and arduous quest in search of the special yellow fruit, and returning to her people victorious.

Goto sensei said to me, this Thursday, “That banana that you gave me became banana bread.” I was happy to hear this. She said something about how hot it was after I had given it to her, and she couldn’t eat it that way. I told her that I was very grateful for her, and she told me that several students after me tried to do the same thing, but she already had one banana, and didn’t need any more. This is a lived embodiment of “early bird gets the worm”, or in this case, “early marathon runner gets to hand their unwanted banana to unsuspecting supervisor.”

Well friends, I have a confession to make. I seem to be getting into a bad habit of doing this, which is to say I’m going to tell you about something, and then not telling you about it. I do not want you to think that I’m not a man of my word. The reason why I do this is because I want to do these things justice, and I’m not always sure how that justice will be done. I’m saying this now so that you are not too disappointed with me when I tell you that I am not going to be able to tell you about “The Fall” tonight. We just don’t have the time. Or the energy. On my part. And I want to do it justice. Of course, it goes without saying that I won’t be telling the bowl story either, and I wonder if I should even stop talking about the bowl story, and just move on, and I have to say I’m somewhat in agreement with you over that, but at this point, I’m in too deep, and I’m going to tell it to you, someday, when all of the other things have been said. But, I have told you about the Triumph, at least, which was the running of the 30 kilometers, with minimal pain and suffering, and that must be enough for this post #4!

Until #五。。Fight!

Update: (Like the picture? This is my favorite plant ever right now. I saw this in a garden in my neighborhood. It’s called 鶏頭、keitou, or silver cock’s comb. The first time I laid eyes on it I audibly gasped.)

The Marathon and Joyfull with Mr. Parker Jr. マラソンとジョイフルとミスターパーカージュンヤ

We did it. The third post. I’m gonna get right into this one because we just don’t have the time to dilly dally here.

Why don’t we have time to dilly dally, Steven? As I’m sure you’re wondering. You probably came here to dilly dally, and you know that I love dilly dallying, it’s true, and it’s hard for me to tell you that this won’t be a day of dallying and dillying.. but today is not that day, because tomorrow I am going to run 30 kilometers.

Do you know how many miles 30 kilometers is? I’ll tell you. It’s a lot of miles. I actually don’t know how many. It’s slightly more than 2/3 of a marathon. For any of you who have ran a marathon, you must know how I’m feeling, you can think back to running your first marathon. I think the most I’ve ever run at once was probably 6 miles in high school, which would be something like.. 10 kilometers?

Why am I doing this? Ozu High School has a tradition. This tradition started some time ago, over ten years ago. And this tradition is a school marathon. This marathon is not optional. It is not normal either – apparently some other schools have “marathons” but they don’t actually mean marathon marathon. Not the whole shebang. Well, Ozu High School means the whole shebang. In Japan, students take entrance exams for the high schools they’d like to enroll in, and I’ve heard that the marathon is something that students consider when they’re thinking about enrolling in Ozu. That and how cute the uniforms are. So it’s a big deal. Last year, I watched, like almost every teacher except 校長先生, the principal, and 副校長先生, the vice principal, who was probably forced into doing it by the principal. Who is, I should add, extremely genki. Energetic. I don’t want to get his age wrong here, but he is at least in his late 60’s. And he is a big fan of the marathon. My supervisor, Goto sensei, messaged me yesterday night and said, “There is a rumor that the marathon will be cancelled. But no one’s saying it out loud. Because the principal wants to run. Really.” (it’s supposed to rain tomorrow, possibly heavily. It’s currently thunder-storming)

So last year, I was a volunteer, helping keep the students alive during their trial. I had a post somewhere in the first third, to give water and disgustingly sweet sports drinks and encouragement, and after all students had passed through that point, I went back to the school to meet the finishers. And there I saw it all. Triumph, defeat, agony, relief, elation, misery, complete and utter exhaustion, friendship, perseverance. It was all there. I saw students end at a sprint, afterwards putting their hands on their hips and panting like some people might after going for a jog around the neighborhood, and I saw students drag themselves and their friends across the finish line, the weakest supported by their stronger friends, limping, in some cases being carried. A fair number of students had bloody socks – my Kikuchi family’s high school daughter couldn’t finish due to injury. And of course, I saw all of this, and I thought one thing – I want in. I personally have two goals for tomorrow – survive, and run the entire time.

I didn’t actually realize what I was signing up for until today, when some of the teachers got on a bus and drove the course. Did you know that 30 kilometers is a long distance to run? In your head, if you don’t have a good concept of distance, like me, such a number is abstract. 20, 30, 70 kilometers.. sure, at a certain point you just get tired, and you keep on running, and it’s no problem. Well today I saw what 30 kilometers looks like, and I realized.. it’s kind of a problem. I was trying to gauge at what point I thought my regret for participating in this would start, and the point that I decided my regret, coupled with suffering, would start at was around 10 kilometers. When we came to the sign that said 16 kilometers.. well, it hit me hard. And this would be bad enough if I was running back on those flat lands of Indiana, but of course, this is Japan, and the masochist who chose the route for the course (a previous principal) thought that it’d be nice to make the students climb a few small mountains while they run their 42 kilometers (this year we’re only doing 30 because of corona).

So I’m running tomorrow. It may just be me, the principal, and the students. Will there be blood? Will there be tears? Will I say “f it” and just walk? We’ll find out tomorrow!

Now, with that out of the way.. what’s this Joyfull business, you may be wondering? But before I get to that, I want to insert a mini-story, which might be interesting as a glimpse into what it’s like to live somewhere where most people don’t speak your language and you can hardly speak theirs.

Today I went to my town’s 役場, which is basically the town hall. It’s the place where ish gets done. I had to go there and get some ish done. And that, like it always is when I go to get ish done in Japan, without my guardian angels Goto sensei, Hayashi sensei, or Nagata sensei, was an adventure. It’s an incredible thing, to understand 90% of the words that are being spoken to you, and yet understand almost none of what’s being said.

I had gotten a letter in the mail, about a car tax I had to pay. I thought, finally, something easy. I walk in, announce, “I’m here to pay my car tax!” Pay it, and leave. But, of course, it’s never that simple. There was a catch, which I came to realize after I handed my paper to an unlucky young man named Daisuke, announced, “I’m here to pay my car tax!” and then proceeded to become increasingly confused, aware of only the fact that this was not going to be as simple as opening up my wallet, handing over some cash, and leaving. My poor friend Daisuke spent about 10 minutes staring into my soul and trying to explain to me what this catch was, and at around the ten minute mark, I had understood this much – there is a special paper that he either needs me to have or he needs me to get. This special paper is related to my shaken, my expensive special Japanese car insurance that I have to get every two years, along with a checkup on the condition of my car. Where this paper was to come from, who it was to be provided by, whether it was already in existence – none of this was known to me. A nearby employee took pity on him, on me, probably more on him, and came over to help explain, which meant that she said all of the things that Daisuke san did in almost exactly the same way, which meant that her joining the effort was almost futile, and after they realized this they had a small discussion, in quieted voices, but of course right in front of me, discussing what the best course of action would be. They had me write my name and address on two papers, and then pay the tax. After I’d paid, I was surprised to receive the special paper, and then I understood clearly what they wanted, which was that they wanted to give me a special paper that I needed to have when I went in to get my shaken renewed, but they didn’t know when my shaken would expire, and they wanted to see my shaken paper first. Perhaps the great source of confusion from this conversation was the fact that there were actually two special papers, the second being dependent upon the first, but that was lost on me until after. Throughout all of this, I probably apologized 6 times for not understanding his Japanese, and said that I was still learning about 3 times, and he apologized to me multiple times for not being able to explain clearly. After this great ordeal was over, both of us glad to have it resolved, we had a brief conversation, one that did not involve total non-understanding. He asked me if I was an English teacher (good guess), and I told him I taught at Ozu and Shoyo. He told me graduated from Ozu High School, and I said I was running in the marathon tomorrow, and he told me that he ran the whole 42 kilometers, and that it was, “Taihen.” (a pain)

Experiences like that always leave with me with a little more motivation to study harder, like a horse when a cowboy sticks it with his spurs, because it’s not a great feeling having that look on your face, that face you have when someone has tried their best multiple times to get you to understand something, that face that says, “Buddy ol’ pal… I know you’re trying you’re best and I’m trying my best and I have to say that I still have absolutely no idea what the hell you’re saying to me.”

I will never forget the new word I learned from this experience, “shorui,” which I take to mean “special papers.”

So that was a highlight of the day, and now we’re on to the main event. The Joyfull story. To start this I have to familiarize you with the most popular chain restaurant in Kyushu (the southernmost of the four main islands that make up the body of Japan). This restaurant is Joyfull. Joyfull is so popular that there are three of them in Ozu. Ozu is not a large town, and all three are located along the main highway that bisects Ozu, so that you can pass by all three Joyfulls in less than 5 minutes. I have been to Joyfull maybe 7 times already, and it was never by my own volition. I am always dragged there by Japanese friends, or Lewis, who also drags me to McDonalds, which I am slightly more of a fan of, because McDonalds has a shrimp burger that’s pretty good. Joyfull, on the other hand, has almost nothing to offer for a vegetarian, there being two or three wimpy salads on the menu, and only slightly more for a pescatarian. I’m not sure what to compare Joyfull to exactly, it’s like a Denny’s or IHOP or Bob Evans or whatever that class of restaurant is. Also, maybe you noticed, it’s spelled with two lls, which I actually thought was unintentional, because of the numerous and commonplace misspellings I see every day, which I am a big fan of because they are often extremely entertaining. But, a friend pointed out to me that it is in fact intentional, like you’re happy because you’re stomach is full kind of thing. Anyways, I’m really not a big fan of Joyfull, and when I go there I use the drink bar cups without paying for the drink bar, because they’re bigger than the pathetic tiny cups you get if you don’t do the drink bar (but I’m a good boy, I still drink water). It’s my way of getting back at Joyfull for having enticed whoever it is that took me there to take me there. Who, most recently, happened to be Parker, or “Mr. Parker Jr.” as he and the Japanese have taken to calling him.

Parker is my friend living to the east in Oita, in a town called Taketa, that is larger than Ozu, and in a more mountainous area. He’s from Nashville, and has a slight accent, which came out just this weekend, when we were talking about The Ring (scary movie) and he says “well” and he’s talking about an actual well that you dig for water, but what he actually said was “whale.” The Mr. Parker Junior name is coming from a skit that a Japanese comedian has been doing recently, where he puts a hood over his eyes and he says, “I’m Mista. Pahkah. Junyah!!” And that’s the whole thing. The first time I met Parker he showed up to the party with a small boombox and played good music for us the whole night. He’s tall, has a huge smile, and is friendly, open, and goofy. He has a great deal of friends, buys mainly secondhand clothes, owns a greenscreen, and makes highly entertaining music videos for his songs. He also has inherited about 10 or more schools, all elementary and middle school, and the trunk of his car is a well organized school supply room. Parker has visited me twice now in Kumamoto, and so it was about time that I came out to Oita to visit him and see what was going on out east, where I rarely go, having previously had no friends in that direction, past Aso.

I came into Taketa, about an hour east of me, to check out a local castle (Okajyo), see beautiful autumn leaves (kouyou), and go to a jazz concert (jyaazu konsaato), with Parker and two of his friends. It was going to be a great day. The weather was perfect, the leaves were at peak color, in various hues of greens, yellows, oranges, reds, purples, and all the in-betweens. After a beautiful drive through Aso, I arrive in Taketa, and Parker is going over the plan of the day for me. We’re talking about where to go for lunch, and he says, “You know, there’s not many places around here. There’s a local chicken place but they don’t have a great vegetarian selection.. and then there’s Joyfull. Did you know, they’ve got corn mayo pizza now?” And immediately, I’m surprised to hear him say that. Because, this is certainly not a Joyfull time. We’re not desperate, and we’re not in inaka, and so there must be 15-20 better places that we can choose from in the immediate area. So I’ve been alerted to something about Parker that I didn’t know before, which is that he is one of the Joyfull people. And more significantly than this, because the Joyfull people are many, there’s another thing that I’m thinking, and it’s this. Is Parker a fan of the corn mayo pizza? This is significantly more meaningful, because Parker has been in America, and must have had good pizza. And the corn mayo pizza, it’s not a pizza at all. Corn mayo pizza is a few pieces of corn and a slathering of mayonnaise on a thin piece of cracker bread. It combines the Japanese obsession with mayonnaise with the Japanese concept of pizza, with corn taking the unlikely role of bringing these two together. To me, corn pizza is like the watered down soup that people make when they have nothing more substantial to eat, and are only trying to keep starvation at bay. You eat it because you have nothing better to eat. The creator of corn mayo pizza must have been in a similar position, and instead of a sad meal of mushrooms and lettuce, had at his disposal only a few bits of corn, mayo, bread. At least, that’s how I see it.. but that’s not how the Japanese see it, because they love corn mayo pizza. The Japanese, and Parker. He saw then that I was not one of the corn mayo pizza people, and threw out another his other selling point. “They’ve got a new apple pie!” So I said, in this moment not really caring, and because I didn’t want to shoot him down, and after giving him some heckling for the corn mayo pizza liking.. Parker, if you really want to go to Joyfull, we can go to Joyfull. But after enjoying a leisurely tour of the castle and the leaves, we found ourselves hungry, and for me, the thought of coming all the way to Taketa, to enjoy it’s new sights and charms and culture, just to end up going to a Joyfull for lunch, it was too much. So I said, Parker, I’m sorry, I know you want to go to Joyfull but I just can’t do it, I’ve never been here before, there’s gotta be something better, something local, anything. And he cedes. “Alright, we can go to the chicken place. It was rated #1 toriten in Japan.” And here I do a bit of a double take. Toriten is an Oita specialty, and it’s an extremely juicy, rare, in the double sense of being slightly undercooked and hard to find, chicken. With that in mind, and with the number one rating backing it, I made a decision, and I ate some chicken. It was the first time I’ve eaten chicken in I don’t even know how long and well.. it was pretty damn good. Incredibly juicy. I was also especially receptive to the deliciousness of chicken after having not had it in so long. If you go to Oita, and get a chance to try the toriten.. I won’t tell you not to. And if anyone is judging me, saying, Steven how could you! I’ll say that I don’t see any harm in eating a bit of meat on occasion, and I would do it more often if I could be sure that the meat I was eating was treated humanely and was grown in such conditions that weren’t damaging to the health of this planet, but unfortunately at this time, such meat is hard to come by, and it’s much easier to forgo eating meat almost entirely. (It’s also healthier).

So.. I narrowly avoided having to go to Joyfull, and ended up getting a chance to try the best toriten in Japan. Which just goes to show you what happens when you avoid Joyfull. After the toriten, Mr. Parker Jr. and I met up with his friend Nick, the other ALT in Taketa, and his girlfriend, Lynn (or Linn, or Lin, I don’t know but I do know it’s some form of that and not Rin, which I called her at first). And Nick is an interesting guy – a little on the short side, possibly coming from the fact that he’s a quarter Chinese, confident, knowledgeable. Nick moves quick, which Parker had given me some of idea of, but which I experienced firsthand when, at the castle, Parker was on the phone with him, and I said, “Hey Nick!” And he made some kind of grunt or other sound that wasn’t a word in response (Parker said after he hung up, “He’s not a fan of small talk.”). Nick is not a fan of small talk, but he is fan of sharing his knowledge, and in our short period of time together, he taught me that the first murder hornet nest in the US was just destroyed, that staring into a red light will help your eyes more quickly adjust to the dark, and that Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo (I do believe it’s eight Buffalos) is a grammatically correct sentence. He looked me in the eyes on two separate occasions and said to me, “Do you know about the _______ effect?” The first blank being Mandela, and the second being Hobbler. I would like to hang out with Nick again. His girlfriend, we’ll just go with Lynn, is a Canadian from Toronto, and she’s not a JET, making her one of the rare non-JET foreigners in my circle. Us four went to a jazz concert, which I could write about in more detail but I’ll keep it short and just say this: the organ player was a man possessed, the cello player had one of the deepest voices I’ve ever heard, and Nick was TikTok (I had to look up how to write this) interviewed by a Chinese woman.

After the concert, we’re making our way back to Taketa, and we’re going over all of the Japanese that we didn’t understand, and Nick is generally doing the filling in of the gaps in Parker and I’s understanding, him being the best Japanese speaker. Some of this included a reference to us, when the singer asked, “Who here is from outside of Oita?” And looked jokingly at us (this went completely over my head) And asked if anyone had seen the James Bond movies (which in the moment I thought, “Is she talking about James Bond?” To which I got the answer yes, when they started doing Skyfall.) So we’re talking, and the conversation dies down a bit, and after a few moments of silence, Parker says to me, “So… what do you want to do for dinner?” This we had talked about earlier in the day, and had settled on just scrounging something together at his apartment. He said he didn’t have any food, and we’d have to go somewhere. And he said, “What do you want to eat?” And I said, “Veggies.” And I was serious, I hadn’t eaten a fruit or vegetable all day – up to this point it had been a produce drought. And Parker said, alright. And it’s quiet again. A few seconds pass, and he inquires further. “But really, what are you thinking?” And I say, you know, I’m serious, I really just want some vegetables, and otherwise I don’t care. We can pick out some things that look good when we go to the store. “Alright,” he says, ambivalently. Then again, silence. Some time passes, and we get back to Nick’s place. We say our goodbyes, and Parker and I get in the car, him driving, and he says, “So what do you want to get? There’s a HIHirose around here (generic department/grocery store thing).” And I say, “Sure, perfect, anything’ll do.” And it’s quiet again. And clearly, at this point I realize, Parker is thinking about something, and it must be related to what he wants to eat. And I’m wondering, Parker, what exactly do you want to eat? A brief moment passes, and then Parker, not taking his eyes off the road, says to me, “Do you wanna go to Joyfull?” And then I realized. Of course. It was Joyfull. He’d been thinking about it this whole time. He had never stopped thinking about it. He had been waiting, biding his time, for the right time to try again, and here it was. Sure, he was asking me, but what was it really, but a plead, a cry for that sweet sweet Joyfull apple pie, that poor man’s pizza. I didn’t know what to say, because it really wasn’t a question meant for me, it was a statement, the way he said it – please Steven, let’s go to Joyfull. And after a pause, I just said, “Do you?” And he looks over at me and says, “They’ve got apple pie!”

So, yes, we went. It cost me nothing, and it meant so much to him, and I am not one to deny another’s Joyfull when it truly calls them. Now we’re sitting there, at the Joyfull, and it’s got a decent crowd, like Joyfull usually does. I’m browsing over the menu, looking for anything more promising than their wimpy salads and finding nothing. Parker says he’s not hungry enough for the corn mayo pizza. Good, I don’t have to see it. I find the apple pie and the corn mayo pizza on the menu. It says, New! Parker never looks at the menu. I know he’s going to get the apple pie, because he’s been talking about it all day, it’s the reason why we came, it’s why I said yes, so he could finally get his Joyfull apple pie.. As I’m thinking about which and how many wimpy salads I’ll order, I look at him, and I say, “You know what you want?” And he says, “Yep.” I decide and say, “Alright, I’m good.” He reaches over and pushes the button, the magical waitress summoning button. And after pushing it, he pauses. There’s a moment of silence, and he stares straight ahead. After a second, he picks his head up, and with an air of decidedness, and a sigh, like he’s just resigned himself to some unmovable act of fate and has no choice but to face it boldly, he looks me in the eyes and says, “You know.. I think I’m gonna get the strawberry parfait!”

This was too much for me. I was floored. After all of this, from the very beginning, from the moment that the specter of Joyfull had descended on this day, since it had reared it’s ugly head and forced it’s way into our plans, it had been about the apple pie, it was always about the apple pie, and the corn mayo pizza, but if it wasn’t about the corn mayo pizza, the apple pie was all that was left. And here he was, on the brink of achieving his heart’s desire.. and yet it wasn’t his hearts desire after all, as the simple act of pushing that button made clear to him. For when he pushed that button, he realized, someone would come, and he would have to tell them, then, what he wanted, and then it would come – and there was no turning back. In that moment, with the thought of the waitress, hearing the chime, making her way to the table, preparing to ask his order, he realized then – apple pie is not what I want. What I want is the strawberry parfait. And that’s what I’ll order. And thinking about it now, what happened right there may be exactly what happens when a bride or groom gets cold feet at a wedding. Up until that moment, they tell themselves, this is it, this is right, this is what I want, this is what’s best for me – until they’re faced with the stark reality that what they’ve been wanting, what they thought they’ve been wanting all this time – they don’t. Parker was the groom, the apple pie the bride, me, the best man, and the waitress the preacher, and when he walked into the church of Joyfull and stepped up onto the altar, in a flash, he understood. He wanted the strawberry parfait.

I had nothing to give Parker but a look. A look of actual shock, of raw surprise. I shake my head and say, “You’re kidding me.” He shrugs his shoulders and says, “I haven’t had it in a long time!”

Thinking about this story now, it brings me a lot of joy. I now don’t know if I should thank Joyfull for it. It doesn’t sit well with me but I think I have to, and I definitely have to thank Parker. What’s interesting to me about this, and what I’ve been thinking about some of these stories I’ve been collecting, is what you can take away from in a day. What stands out as being that defining thing in your day, that thing that makes your days unlike the others, and finds a way into memory, so that when you do a quick scan back through the log, it pops up and you have a chuckle, or a groan, or a good feeling? And for me, and I suspect for most people, it’s more often than not those little things, something unexpected, like this Joyfull, the only thing we didn’t plan for (I should say I, because Parker had clearly been thinking about this) is the thing that I end up writing about.

It’s late, and I’ve gotta wrap this up. Big day tomorrow, there will be slightly more pain and suffering than usual. It should be a great day.

I know I promised you a bowl story. It’s coming. I swear it is. I’ll recycle it and use it as the cliffhanger for the next post. That juicy post number 四!

The Second Post! 二番目 Gobo Goes to Canada and Japanese People Working Too Much

Codo

Goda

Gogo

Goba

Coba

forg

flog

frags

flogs

I spork about frogs.

I spork about flogs.

International Frags 2020

International Flogs 2020

I joined intartnational FROGS 2020.

I spork about flog.

forg

Frogo

Frogs like to dance. The frogs are dancing when they listen to the music.

speach

sperch

spearch

spech

Yes, recently I have given the students a creative writing assignment. Yes, it was about frogs. Specifically, it was about a character I created, Gobo (the speckled bacteria looking thing, who is named after burdock root, which was what many of the students were calling her back when she had no name) who traveled to Canada for an international frog conference, called International Frogs 2020, to share her discovery with the world, and went to a dance party afterward. I drew up four pictures detailing the story, and had students write about each picture – what Gobo was thinking, feeling, saying, etc, and I was surprised by some of the quality and creativity of their responses. What also surprised me, even more so, was how many ways they could misspell the name of a character when it has been written into the title of the worksheet, and is on the board next to a large drawing of said character. What you have just read is the cream of the crop of their misspellings. The worksheet was titled, “Gobo Goes to Canada”, in large font at the top of the page, and yet we got FIVE Gobo variants: Cobo, Gogo, Goda, Goba, and Codo. I’m thinking about incorporating them into a future worksheet, or the next Ozu Times comic strip (where Gobo made her original appearance), as Gobo’s siblings or something (update: I did this).

The day that I checked these worksheets was one of the days I’ve laughed the most. I mean come on, I spork about flog? Can you say that without laughing? Intartnational FROGS 2020? It’s too good. So all day I was sitting at my desk, trying and failing to stifle my giggling. I couldn’t help it. I need to give them more creative writing prompts.

So that’s been one of many highlights of these past few weeks. Other highlights..

Well, I’ll tell you another story in a minute, but while I’m thinking about it..

These teachers work too much. It’s not a secret that the Japanese work too much, but I’m seeing it firsthand, and it’s rough. Overworking is the norm, it’s expected. Every week multiple teachers will tell me about how they’re working too much and need more sleep, a vacation, whatever. In the past two weeks alone I have had five instances of teachers mentioning that they’re overworking. Here they all are.

Today, I’m talking with a teacher friend, I don’t know her name, I am ashamed to say, and she tells me that she’s very tired, because she was at the school working until 9 last night. She told me, “I need to escape.” And of course we laughed, like all the teachers do when they’re talking about working too much.

On Tuesday, I stopped by Hayashi sensei’s desk to tell her about how I just sprayed some kind of cleaning fluid on my desk and accidentally got them on my grapes, and still tried to eat my grapes, and how god awful it was, and how I had to throw them all away (and I did try to wash them but it was no good), and we had a nice conversation about how Japanese people peel their grapes (they peel their grapes and their apples, crazy I know, although some of their grapes actually have a pretty thick peel) – and actually this is another little story – when I first came here I would eat apples at school and I would eat them like a normal person does, which is to just bite into them and enjoy their crunchy goodness, and everyone would be like, woah, what are you doing, you’re not gonna peel it?? And I was like.. no.. why… would I do that? The peel is like the best part. And that’s how I learned that Japanese people peel their apples, and grapes, and whatever else is peelable. I have also astounded them by eating large raw carrots at my desk (which today got three! teachers to stop at my desk. “Is it your lunch?” “I’ve never seen this.” “Why don’t you cut it?”) and eating a loaf of white bread every day for lunch for two months straight (It got to the point where one teacher was asking me daily, Steven, what’s for lunch? Shokupan? Did you have shokupan? And she already knew the answer, she just wanted to hear me say it, and I would always respond, “Yes, every day shokupan.” And she would throw her head back and laugh.

So.. anyways, I told Hayashi sensei this story (about the grapes), and then she tells me she has a headache, and she is working too much, and I told her that maybe she’s dehydrated, and she told me she has drank two cups of coffee today and that was it, and she holds up this TINY mug, to show me how much coffee she had consumed, and I was like, uhhhh you’re crazy you need to drink some water. And she told me, I don’t have time to go to the fridge (the fridge is on the other side of the staff room from her – it would take about ten seconds to walk there). So I went and got her water for her. And we laughed again, like we always do when we’re talking about overwork.

So that was the second instance.. the third was when I spoke with Uramoto sensei, who told me he was tired, because he is ALWAYS tired, because this man works at the school from like 6 in the morning to 8 at night every day, and has an hour commute to and from the school. Every other time I see him he tells me he is working too much and needs more sleep. And we laugh, like we always do. And this guy is always smiling, he is one of my favorites. He is the head of the teaching staff, which is why he has some of the longest working hours out of all of the teachers.

Fourth instance, last Friday, I was talking with Sanaoka sensei, who is also one of my favorites (I have a lot of favorites). There is something about him that I can’t really explain. He is one of those people who is funny without being aware of it and without any intention of being funny. He is very curious about things, and his demeanor is usually very flat, but not in an off-putting way, more in like a he-just-isn’t-really-fazed-by-anything way, and he has this quality where he simultaneously appears to be both serious and completely unserious at the same time. He is also the tallest Japanese person I know. He is like 6’2″ or 6’3″. I can give you a little story about him to illustrate why he is funny. Kumamon is Kumamoto Prefecture’s official mascot. He is a black, sausage shaped bear, with soulless snake eyes. People love him. Anyways, there is a video of him falling off of a train, when he is trying to walk down the steps to get off the train, and it’s very funny. It’s just a good video. They’re recording a news show where they have Kumamon go around and try new things or show off some aspect of Kumamoto culture or whatever, and he has these two guides that do the talking, and then they have some people who are watching from a set and they put their faces in the corner of the screen and show their reactions (this is typical for a Japanese news/entertainment show). So anyways, Kumamon falls off the train, everyone is like, oh my god!, and Kumamon is rolling around, and doesn’t get up, and they don’t know what to do.. it’s funny. And because I’ve dang talked about it for so long, I feel like I owe you the link, so here you go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6f4_OEm1bo&ab_channel=bitoshakure. Skip to 1:30 for the falling off the train action, although the first bit is good too. So.. I told Sanaoka sensei about this video, and I told him to watch it, and he said he would. And I asked him every day for two weeks if he watched it, and he always said, “No.” So I stopped asking daily, and asked weekly, and then forgot about it, and at some point after a few months, I remembered, and I said, “Hey did you watch that Kumamon video??” And he said, “Yes. But, no laugh.”

So, back to the whole teachers working too hard thing. I asked Sanaoka sensei last Thursday if he was having a great day, and he said, “No. Not great. Too busy.” And I said, “Well, at least tomorrow is 華金 (pronounced hanakeen)(which is like the Japanese version of TGIF)!” And he said, “No, no 華金.” And I said, “Why not?” And he says, “Hana means ‘happy’.” End of conversation. Well, not really, because then I said, Kanashikeen, meaning sad Friday, and that got some laughs.

This man is working so hard that he sees Friday as a sad day. Or at least, it’s not a happy day, because it’s another day of work for him. It doesn’t matter that it’s the last day in the week, it’s another day of work.

Finally, the fifth.. two weeks ago, all of the teachers had a meeting. My supervisor Gotou sensei said to me, “You know Japanese people are working too much, so recently we had a meeting about working too much.” She said that some government or specialist guy came in and told the teachers how to work less. I thought, this must have been bs, and asked her how it was. She said nothing he told them changes the amount of work they actually have, and that after the meeting, they all had a good laugh, and then stayed an extra hour late that day to finish the work they couldn’t do while they were in the meeting about how to work less.

Actually there’s a sixth. I said good morning to my friend from Shoyo High School’s office, and he was the only one in the office at the time. He is basically fluent in English because he lived in California for several years (he is actually one of three of my Japanese friends who have great English and have lived in California for a number of years). He has told me repeatedly about how much work he is doing. On one weekend, we had two days off, making for a four day weekend, and he came in on three of those days to work overtime, filling out some forms related to coronavirus that students had to submit to the school. So I said to him this morning, good morning, and asked him if he was surviving. He said to me, “It’s too much. If I had known how much work this job was going to be I never would have taken it.” And that’s pretty much how all of our conversations about work go, and I always walk away thinking, jeez.

It’s not just the teachers either.. the students are working too hard. There’s this whole business with cram school (jyuku).. basically sending your middle schooler to like four hours of extra school 3 nights a week plus weekends so that they can do well on their high school entrance exams. I’m like.. do you guys know about diminishing returns? Does this actually work? How do these students survive? I actually didn’t see my host family’s middle school daughter for like 4 months because every time we did something together the daughter was at cram school. Some of these students are also commuting from far away. They might have over an hour of train rides + walking or biking to get to school, then they have club, take an hour to go back home, and then have homework on top of it all. I have had a ridiculous number of students tell me that they get 3,4,5 hours of sleep a night. Those students are suffering. Sometimes as many as one third of the students in a given class are asleep. It’s especially bad at Ozu because Ozu has all the soccer players, who are fatigued from all the practice, but they’re not the only ones who sleep.

I learned about 黒会社 (kurokaisha) recently too. I went bowling with some friends, and one of them mentioned that he didn’t have a job. I asked about it later, and he said that he worked for a 黒会社 in Tokyo, a ‘black company’, which is a company that has terrible working conditions. At least he was smart enough to quit.

So that was a little bit about what I’ve seen of Japanese work culture.. I wanted to tell my BOWL story (not about bowling, but about an actual bowl), but I don’t have time. I can leave you with that little cliffhanger, to give you something to look forward to post #3!

P.S. I have a lot of good bug photos, but uploading here is a pain. It takes wayyy too long. I am thinking about either posting them on Facebook or making a Flickr and putting them there. I will do this someday. Someday..