Slippers

Some writing from my Japan days.

This is a Frankenstein post.

It has been stitched together out of several sessions of writing and over the course of several days.

Last night I slept in a tent. In my own apartment. It’s right behind me. I will sleep there again tonight. I am doing this because I am at war. I have been at war now for some time, and the war I have won. I am at war with mosquitoes. They have my apartment. They will never have my blood.

I’ve sold my car. Last week or two weeks ago. Just in time for the rainy season. This morning I woke up at my usual time of around 5:30, to my usual serenading by Tamanaga san’s rooster. That rooster does his job well. Too well. He cock-a-doodle-doos for about two hours longer than he needs to. He just has nothing better to do. He’s crowing for his harem, perhaps. His diminishing harem. I was picking berries with the Tamanaga children and the eldest, Riku, told me about his recent experience beheading one of the chickens. His younger brother didn’t want to hear any of this story. He’s a tough kid; he described to me the chopping and the boiling and the spurting of blood and he might as well have been describing to me how ice cream was made. This rooster though, I noticed some months ago, whenever I would wake up in the middle of the night to take a squizz, I would open my bathroom door, and he would let out a wild cock-a-doodle-doo! (Which is kokkigokko in Japanese, by the way). Every single time, he would do this, and he still does. And I think, does this man not sleep? Is he really ready to flex all 24 hours of the day? He must have incredible hearing, to be able to hear that door. My window doesn’t fully close, it just kind of closes, as it’s covered with a series of slanted glass plates, that I can open or shut, but it’s not airtight. Still it’s quite far from him. I told Tamanaga san about this recently, and Tamanaga san said, “Oh, he thinks it’s another rooster.” The squeak of my bathroom door does not have, to me, even one-tenth of the vigor of that rooster’s kokkigokko; but he will tolerate not even a peep of challenge.

While I’m talking about my bathroom….

Let me ask you this – have you ever wanted to watch yourself pee? Have you ever had the desire to stare yourself down while you took a nice tinkle? At some point before me, a vain tenant, a well-meaning landlord, I don’t know who, but someone had this desire, and they affixed a small, square mirror, at eye level, above the toilet. Every time I go into the bathroom to pee, I have to make the choice to either look myself in the eyes when I let my stream loose, or look somewhere else. They put it right in front of my eyes, so it is more effort to look away, and it is also instinctive to want to make eye contact, and so if I go into that bathroom not wanting to stare myself down when I pee, and I don’t, I have to find somewhere else to look. It irritated me to the point that I finally tried to take it down, and I found that whoever put it up was so confident in their decision that this was a good idea, that they had it welded to the wall. The mirror stays. Do you think that’s ridiculous? Is it just me? I think that’s ridiculous. I don’t need to watch myself when I use the bathroom. I don’t need to watch myself at all. I think mirrors might be making us narcissists. Phone selfie cams most definitely are. I already think about myself enough. Don’t put a mirror in my bathroom. That’s like putting a mirror above your bed. I don’t need my first thought in the morning to be a reminder of how crusty I am.

I will tell you about selling my car. There is a reason why I brought up the car. I woke up this morning, to the crowing of Tamanaga’s rooster, at my usual time, 5:30, to grey skies. The skies are only ever grey now, and will be that way for a month or two. I like rain, so I don’t mind this time. Today was a day at my special needs school. That meant two hours of biking today – one in the morning, one in the afternoon. I leave at 7:20. Somewhere in between that window, the torrents begin. I sat on my couch, eyeing the downpour, and played with the idea of just calling in and saying, hey, uhh.. not today. This was the first time I’ve biked in such a rain, and it went as expected. Halfway through I was soaked. Not from the rain, but from my own sweat, as the amagappa (rainsuit) is so good at what it does, that no water enters, and no water leaves. I sat on the bench, in front of the changing station, the one that does not exist in American establishments, perhaps in no other country’s establishments than in Japan’s, the outdoor-shoes-for-indoor-shoes, or vice versa, changing station. Do you know about this? At the entrance of every Japanese household there is a space, called a genkan, where you change out of your outdoor shoes, and into your indoor shoes, which are typically a pair of slippers. You can walk around in socks, if it’s a house. That’s fine. When you get the bathroom, then, you change out of your indoor slippers, and into the bathroom slippers. In some bathrooms, such as bathrooms that are inside of a building where you can walk around in your outdoor shoes, there are slippers for your shoes. These are the best kind. You just slide your shoe right in. I think for this reason, ease of transition, the act of getting into and out of a shoe, is of great consideration to the Japanese. They choose their shoes with the fact that they will be performing this act daily in mind. I think they also just have some innate talent for getting into and out of shoes quickly – for anywhere we go, if I am with Japanese people, and we have to do the shoe to slipper swap (or just take the shoes off, which is common at restaurants that have elevated seating, where you all sit around a table lotus-style, criss-cross applesauce, I like this), if it comes to any shoe business, I am always the last one finished, as there will usually be some staggering around involved, perhaps a sitting or squatting down, to struggle through laces, to jerk a resistant shoe off, and by the time I stand back up again, I am alone. Only Austin, the Ozu yakuba Kansas boy, has got me beat. One time he took so long to put on his boots, that even I ran out of witty comments to make, and the restaurant hostess and I were both resigned to watching him struggle through his shoes in silence. I got a good kick out of seeing a thousand parents, at Ozu High’s graduation ceremony, dressed in their best suits and dresses, from head to ankle – because after the ankle were the slippers, and it seems that either no one has yet capitalized on the formal slipper market, or no one cares enough to want formal slippers, for the footwear for this occasion was an anything goes slipper bonanza, and it was all there. Linen beach slippers, fuzzy pink slippers, slippers of a more athletic bent. It was like Ozu’s graduation ceremony had a theme every year, like how we have 80’s themed or Halloween themed parties, and the theme for this year was slippers. And of course, they didn’t come there in the slippers, or else they couldn’t be wearing them in the auditorium, and so every person was supplied with a large plastic bag, that they carry their outdoor shoes in, while they were slippered up. I’m writing about the slippers because up until today, I have had to wear a pair at Kuroishibaru, my special needs school, and it was terrible. I only go this school twice a month, and so I had always made due with the guest slippers they gave me. The guest slippers are the lowest tier of slipper. You wouldn’t think this would be so, given the Japanese’s exacting standards of hospitality. It may just be that guest slippers in the Kumamoto school system are the lowest tier of slipper; but at the three schools that I’ve been to where I had to change into guest slippers, my experience has been the same with all three pairs – too dang small.

We’re pivoting again here.

Last night was a strange night for me.

I felt like I was in the Twilight Zone. I’ve never been in the Twilight Zone, I haven’t even seen the show, but I imagine that what happens in the Twilight Zone is what was happening to me last night. There were just too many odd occurrences happening in such a short period of time that I couldn’t help but feel that I entered an alternate reality. The feeling was exacerbated by the fact that it was in the middle of night, where all sense of time vanishes, and I was only vaguely conscious. I was woken up by something. It could have been stomach pain, the buzz of a mosquito, a need to urinate. These things all did plague me in that Twilight Zone of last night.

I can’t say what it was, but I woke up last night, having not even a guess as to how long I’d been asleep. I was hot. It’s been hot here, and humid. The rainy season is here. I know this because it’s raining every day. And when you check the Apple weather app, and see rain forecasted seven days in a row, you get it. Rainy season is here. It will be raining almost every day for the next two months. It will also be incredibly humid. This is torture for some people – for me, it’s alright. I don’t mind a little sweat. Probably because I’m Swedish. I’m quite hairless. It is an annoyance, to be streaming sweat, to be moistening in your crevices, from the act of simply sitting – but some people have it much worse than I do. I’d take sweating over frostbite and dry skin any day. The real torture of this season is the mosquitoes. Evil, evil creatures. It probably started two weeks ago, that was the start of the real hell season, mosquito season. One night, as I slept peacefully, I was awakened by a high-pitched whining in my ear, like the whirring of an incredibly tiny, powerful drill. That was the beginning of mosquito season. I am now assailed by mosquitoes on most nights. Last night was one of those nights. I say mosquitoes, but I think it is always just one. That’s my feeling anyway, that just one of these hellions manages to sneak into my apartment every few nights, and engages in a dangerous game with me, trying to sneak that precious lifeblood out of me. The mosquitoes are winning. You can see that by the number of large red welts that mark my left forearm and right bicep. We are not prey for any other animal on this earth, not consistently, except for mosquitoes. They still devour us. I wonder how many hundreds, how many thousands of gallons of human blood are sucked up by mosquitoes daily. That would be a powerful statistic to use in any good destroy-all-mosquitoes campaign. They just released genetically modified mosquitoes in the US for the first time, this week, I read, in Florida. There are something like seventy-three species of mosquitoes and not all of them feed on humans, so we don’t need all of them to go extinct. Just the ones that stab and drink us like we’re big monkey juice boxes.

Anyways, last night I was plagued with diarrhea. I’m sorry if you’re eating anything right now, like chili. This is the second night I’ve woken up with such extreme gastrointestinal discomfort. I know the source. I have a bean problem. The problem is that I eat too many beans. I think we’re going to have to go our separate ways. This is very sad for me, because that means I have to find another source of protein, and I don’t know if I can find something as cheap or convenient as black beans. I was cooking up half a kilogram in dry weight of those babies every Sunday, in what I called the “death pot”, would freeze them all, and secure a week’s worth of daily bean rations, to utilize in my quest to become a mukimuki man. That has been one of my recent genius, is picking up the adventure again, in the quest to become a mukimuki man. I’m working out at the Ozu school gym with the soccer players. They think that I am the strongest man alive. It’s incredible, going from my local gym in Indiana, being at the near bottom of the totem pole of muscular men, to being number one, the king, without having to have really done anything at all except fly across the world. It’s all relative. Surrounded by hulking American men, I am weak – surrounded by puny Japanese high school soccer players, I am Hulk. They’re not puny, I’m just kidding – especially in the leg department, many of those guys are stronger than me. But weightlifting culture is not big in Japan. It’s fledgling, I would say, although that implies that it will be growing, and I’m not sure if it will be any time soon. When they first started coming to the gym, they would see me lift my weights, and it would just blow their minds. They would huddle around me, and make exclamations, “Wow! Wow!” “Oh my god!” “Very, very strong!” and cheer me on. It’s been a great ego booster. Recently in class, they asked me if I’d be in the gym that day, and they were excited to tell me they would be too, and they asked me what my max bench press was. The time before, they had asked me if I could bench 50 kilograms, and I actually laughed, and they said, “5 times,” and I was like, they’re gonna like this. (For the Standard Measurement users, you know who you are, (Americans) one kilogram is 2.2 pounds). That’s about 125 pounds or so. Even for me that is laughable. I laid out on that bench and just started pounding them out. I may as well have been lifting a barbell with stuffed animals on the sides. And with each rep, they’re realizing my true power, realizing why I laughed at 50, and they told me at fifteen, “Ok, ok.” So in class, when they asked me what my max bench was, I said, “I don’t know, maybe 200.” You should have seen their faces. It blew their minds. And these kids really think I am so strong, that they believed it. That’s 200 kilograms, almost 450 pounds. Obviously that is impossible for me. But I’m truly flattered you guys think I can do it. Really, imagine that you go to the gym and struggle to pound out your six or seven pull ups. You’re probably following in the wake of some lean mean pullup machine who just cranked out fifty for a warmup. You step up, and you’re doing okay, until you get to the fourth, or the fifth, and now it hurts, and your form is falling apart. The sixth destroys you, and you fall to the floor with flaming arms. The imagine of the lean mean pullup machine is fresh in your mind. You do not feel strong. Now, go to my gym at Ozu high. Ask if you can do some pullups. You may have seen a group of young bucks standing around it, eyeing it cautiously, perhaps one of two of them with courage having just given it a go, struggling through a few, probably with terrible form, doing the fish-flopping thing, where you buck your legs to give you extra momentum to lift yourself up. You now step up to struggle through your measly six or seven reps. On only the first rep, you’ve caught the attention of anyone watching. On the second or third, they are now openly commenting on your pullup strength, turning more heads. Sugoi, sugoi. By the fifth, they’re all in, cheering you on, many oh my gods have been exclaimed, someone has probably started counting for you. On your final pullup, they are enthralled, they will beg for one more, and you will fight for it, and you will fall to the ground; and this time, you fall down as a hero, a champion, to the cheers and celebrations of onlookers, who are thrilled to have just born witness to such a remarkable feat of physical strength. This is what it is like to workout at this Ozu school gym. When I sit down at the lat pulldown machine, I move the peg from somewhere around 20 kilograms, to double that. The soccer players see this, and their eyes immediately widen. It’s really incredible.

It has been a great way to get closer to them. Some of these guys have excellent English, and some of them don’t even speak enough English to use the escape card, “I don’t speak English.” when I start talking to them. It’s bad enough that I have to try and gauge the level of the student before I approach them, because it might be that to whatever I say, they will have absolutely no response at all. But it’s easier to bond in the weight room. Sports have that power. Last fall I played in a little Japanese-Vietnamese-American (me representing America) international soccer scrum. Those Vietnamese guys spoke almost no English and close to zero Japanese, and we left good friends.

Typing “believe” makes me want to share something I spoke with a friend about yesterday. We were acknowledging the nightmare that is spelling in the English language. That is one aspect in which Japanese has English thoroughly beat. Japanese is consistent, and the only problem I have with Japanese spelling is whether there is a small つ or an extra う。For the Japanese it’s obvious, but for non-native speakers, it’s not. English speakers learning Japanese have it much easier than Japanese learning English. They have to struggle to discern even between letters of the alphabet. It is nearly impossible for a large percentage of my students to tell whether I am telling them to write b or v. When you make a v sound, if you do it right now, you’ll notice that you do a little buzz with your bottom lip. It’s fun. Try it. The Japanese don’t have this, and so they can’t pronounce v, and if they can’t pronounce it, it’s very hard for them to hear it. The same is true for the th and l sounds, among others. So, that is already a hurdle, and then put the fact that English has all kinds of nonsensical and inconsistent spellings, that it is pretty torturous for the Japanese to learn to spell anything. I showed you before how many different ways they could incorrectly spell frog. (Like, a million different ways.) Blue and vegetable are two other ones that frequently devastate my students (and the greater Japanese community, for at many restaurants, where they have their menu written on a chalkboard, which is a popular thing to do, if they’ve written “vegetables”, 98% of the time it’s spelled wrong). I am sympathetic to all of this. I think English speakers all recognize that English is a bastard sometimes. Look at tomb and bomb – it took me less than five seconds to think of such an example. Another one – close. How did you pronounce that? Close can be pronounced two ways, two words with entirely separate meaning. Japanese is at least consistent. But anyways, my friend, while we were bonding over the horror that is English spelling, asked me if I had any problems with spelling, and I am proud to say that at this point in my life, I’ve worked out almost all of the kinks (one that was kinking me for a long time was restaurant, and when I spell this word I now actually pronounce it incorrectly in my head to confirm that I have it right, as in, I pronounce the staur as you would the saur in dinosaur) but there is one that still kinks me, and that is the dreaded ie vs. ei debauchery. What reminded me of all this just now was that I typed believe, and I actually typed it wrong the first time, perhaps because my core has now been shaken and I am now subconsciously evaluating every ie ei word that I use. I think you all probably know what I’m talking about – is it theif or thief? It’s thief, but I often want to spell it theif. That one is a fifty-fifty for me, but the worst, is receive. I have made the mistake of writing recieve and correcting it so many times that I fear it is now engrained in my muscle memory – for me, writing the word receive is an act of writing receive and then thinking, “Is that right? That doesn’t look right.” And then rewriting it correctly. And it’s a bastard because you have relieve and believe, achieve, sieve, basically everything receive, conceive.. I know, it’s “I before e, except after c.” I know. I just hate it. I’m just pissed about it. But I guess that does solve our thief problem. I before e except after c.

Here are all of the ways that I have seen blue misspelled by my students: bleu (common), bool (only once), belu (common), brue (surprisingly uncommon), blu (uncommon), bloo (uncommon), and blow (only once). And I think this illustrates exactly why English spelling is so evil. To an English speaker, three of these would be pronounced nearly identically with blue: bleu, blu, and bloo. They’ve never written it, but there’s another, blew. You could also write blueue, couldn’t you, if you queue is a word? Bastard language. To the average Japanese who does not attempt to model true English pronunciation when they speak, beru and brue are also correct spellings of blue, in that it models how they hear the word.

On the beans.. I am not sure if I’ve adapted. I am sure that I’ve had to eat less of them, and to tell you the truth, I don’t want to eat them at all. I’ve come to even be afraid of them. It is a certain fact that if I consume any amount of black beans, I will have stinky farts the next day. But I have a dream, a dream that I will be a muscular, mukimuki man, and if I have to make such sacrifices, I will. The protein is too high, for too good of a price, and the convenience is hard to beat. I can whip up half a kilogram in dry bean weight, what I have called the “death pot”, and freeze it all, and now have a week’s worth of daily bean rations. My main protein sources are, along with the beans, soba, tofu, soy milk, peanuts, and a small fish called いりこ (iriko). I think they’re sardines. I eat soba every day, and I often tell this to Japanese people, when they ask me what my favorite food is, or what I usually eat. Soba is a perfect food. It is a perfect noodle. It has outmuscled every other food because it is simple, it is healthy, it is easy to make, and it has an incredible base flavor and texture. Direx has all but lost my business because they don’t carry it. I stopped at Direx this last week on the way home from Ozu High, to pick up some soy milk, which is ten yen more expensive at Direx than Trial (Direx losing on all fronts), and I checked, with very low expectations, as to whether there was yet any soba on the shelf, and there was none, and I left disgusted. Goto sensei, my old tantosha, who I really miss, gave me an amazing 図鑑 (zukan) (kind of a picture encyclopedia), meant for elementary school students and detailing all of the most fundamental aspects of Japanese culture, and it was actually thrilling to me to find that there were two pages devoted to soba, and the making of soba. How soba was made was something that had been sitting in the back of my mind for a long time, like many things, that I’m curious about, and would really like to know about, but just not so much that I’ll sit down and look into it on my own. This came to me, finally, and in the form of a beautiful, detailed, meant-for-children picture book, perfectly matching the level of my interest with the level of the explanation. Because you know, there are so many degrees of knowing something, as I could say, “Yeah, I know how soba’s made!” But if you asked me to make it, obviously, I can’t, so do I really know how soba’s made? Don’t push me on it. What I can tell you, which is what the zukan told me, is that the secret of soba’s power, being full of magnesium, and fiber, and protein, mainly comes from the ground up fruit of the soba plant. They take the fruit, which looks like (based on the zukan illustration) some tough ass raisins, grind ’em up, take off the shell, mix them in with a paste made of flour and yamaimo, a kind of root vegetable, roll it out, and chop it up into noodles. And viola, you have Japan’s greatest noodle.

Ubuyama 産山村/Life With The Lord Scrumpillion Wombus

This post details the events of May/June 2022. I have no idea how to write this like a normal person.

Shoutout to Derek Tepe for inspiring me to finish this post. Without him I don’t know when I ever would have. Thanks Derek and I hope you enjoy it.

Did you have fun today?

Make sure you have fun today.

Yesterday I got my fun by declaring that I would twist Mr. Parker Junior’s nipples every time he scratched himself. He’s been wearing shorts up to the mid-thigh, and all that exposed leg is being devoured by insects, and is now covered in bandaids because he can’t stop scratching his bites. In the ten or so minutes between declaring my intentions and moving on with life I got to twist his nipples several times. When I twisted them, he would curl up into a defensive ball and cry “Stop!” and then offer many and varied explanations for his unhealthy behavior, as is his custom. I would not have done this if I had not made a conscious decision then and there that I was going to have some fun, however I would get it. I did, and it changed the trajectory of my day. Sometimes a fun-jection is just what the doctor ordered. So, make sure you’re having fun. You’ve gotta have it. You should play every day.

I have recently spent several weeks of my life in the remote recesses of the mountains of Japan, in a lonely home with a wild Australian man, learning bird calls, following boar trails, hunting for owls, turning all faucets to the right, and unplugging all appliances when not in use. This home was located in a small town nestled in the hills of Kuju, Ubuyama, or the full name, Ubuyamamura, which means Ubuyama village. The kanji for Ubuyama is 産山, which could be interpreted as “Birth Of The Mountain”. I stayed under the good graces of James Cool, who we will henceforth refer to as Scrumpillion Wombus, or in full, The Lord Scrumpillion Wombus, as it is a perfect mix of regality and preposterousness that is the man himself. Scrumpillion Wombus was a gracious host – as long as I did not breathe too loudly, walked on the edges of the stairs so as not to make them creak, did not talk to him more than once every three days, set all faucets to the right and unplugged all appliances as mentioned, kept the royal laundry pole hanging, properly hid myself from the neighbors, showered at regular intervals, and blew my nose when necessary, I was free to do as I pleased, and come and go as I pleased. That is, until that fateful day when he said to me, “Well this has been fun, hasn’t it? You have until the 6th.”

A heavily edited view of the Kuju mountain range from the baseball field adjacent to the house
Ubuyama is right up around Kurokawa Onsen, a famous onsen town, and Mt. Aso. (This is an image of Kyushu.)

I lived in the other room on the second floor of The Lord Scrumpillion Wombus’s fine estate. The room that was not The Lord’s. Prior to my arrival it had been Scrumpillion’s workout room, where he would carry out a variety of royal workouts, such as shadow-boxing, tabata, and manic cleaning, and where he would hang his laundry from the royal laundry pole. He graciously gave me this room for my stay, on the condition that I keep the aforementioned pole, a long metal rod precariously resting on protruding edges of wall near the ceiling. This request I of course initially obliged, and continued to oblige even after the laundry pole had fallen, entirely to my fault, as I had forgotten to lock it in place with the royal safety hangers (hangers hooked onto the pole at the ends between where it rested on the blind racks above the windows – if you attempted to slide the pole off, the hangars would keep it in place, stuck between the bars of the blind rack) (an ingenious security system that none less than The Great Wombus himself could contrive), and it had crashed into my enormous, precious new photo-editing monitor, that thankfully was built with resistance to thick steel laundry pole attacks in mind, this being one of the main reasons why I was attracted to it in the first place – even after this incident I continued to oblige, now having been instructed in the ways of The Lord’s failsafe hanger security system, that immediately failed, as I went to open the blinds and released the hanger, and the pole fell down onto the only spot in the room that it possibly could have landed between the mounds of camera gear, computer equipment, human craniums, and precious monitors, to strike absolutely nothing, and I took this as a sign from the divine, a being higher than even The Lord Wombus himself (if there really could be such a being), that for the remainder of the duration of my stay, the royal laundry pole really must go.

During this wild recursion at the Lord Wombus’s great estate, my best friends and greatest source of amusement, Scrumpillion aside, were not actually human. They were the feathered, flying, frenzied denizens of the woods – the avians. Yes, there is a whole ‘lotta bird goin’ on over in them mountains of Ubuyama. I could talk at great length about these birds, and I would love to do so, but I fear at the risk of alienating myself from those who are not as interested in these whimsical featherballs, like for example The Lord Scrumpillion Wombus, to whom I attempted to speak with about birds on many an occasion, and who would, in his very keen, very sharp intuition, understand immediately on what topic I came to him to discuss, and would upon perceiving it, reply, “Bird! Bird!” But, somewhat surprisingly, he did assist me with my bird investigations by sharing a find with me, when he sent me a photo of a bird that he dubbed the “fat stupid bird”. The bird that Wombus discovered was none other than the kojyukei, and I was personally aggrieved that in all my searching I was never ever able to find this bird myself; but alas, The Lord’s partridges reveal themselves only to The Lord himself.

The fat stupid bird (kojyukei – Chinese Bamboo Partridge)
The fat stupid bird flees, undoubtedly from the Lord’s overwhelming splendor

I didn’t see this bird, but I heard it many times. This was a common with the birdfolk. You would hear them every day, hear them all around you, right outside the window, and yet, try as hard as you might, you may never see them. This particular bird, the kojyukei, I heard almost every single day that I was there in Ubuyama, and tried to track it down countless times, and never did I succeed. Then Scrumpillion, who couldn’t care less, see them, not only once, but several times, on his way home from work! What a scoundrel.

Had he known then the sounds this fat stupid bird is capable of, he may have labelled it a fat stupid shrieking bird instead.

Iconic kojyukei call
Kojyukei scream, similar to the aogera, the Japanese Green Woodpecker, which was also around

We’ve now come to the point where I show you all of my bird pictures. These photos were almost all taken from The Lord Scrumpillion’s estate grounds.

Oriental Greenfinch – カワラヒワ
Ashy Minivet – Sanshoukui
Ashy Minivet – Sanshoukui
Yamagara – Varied Tit
Mejiro – Japanese White-eye, looks like male and female
Mejiro with a big catch
Mejiro call
Soushicho – Red-billed Leiothrix
Don’t know this one, think it was a baby
Enaga – Long-tailed Tit
Enaga call
Hashibosogarasu – Carrion Crow
Gabichou – Chinese Hwamei
Shijyuukara – Japanese Tit
Ooyoshikiri – Oriental reed warbler
Hoojiro – Meadow Bunting
Kogera – Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker
Aobato – Whistling Green Pigeon
Aobato call

There is a story behind every one of these shots. Some stories are short. “I saw the bird and took a picture.” That would be the Wombus way of storytelling. Some stories are longer. One of these such stories is the Aobato story. The Aobato is the Whistling Green Pigeon. The Whistling Green Pigeon was one of my favorites. For one, because it’s a green pigeon. Do I need to say anymore? When all you’ve ever seen are the classic grey pigeon (we did have these in Ubuyama, I was surprised to see them), seeing a green one feels like finding a shiny version of a Pokemon. (Shiny Pokemon are a rare version of the Pokemon that has a different color scheme and is of course, shiny.) However, as if being green wasn’t enough, these pigeons also have an allure in they they are extremely shy, and will never show themselves to humans. They sing their iconic songs all throughout the day, just to remind you that they do exist, and they are out there, you’re just not allowed to see them. You can see from the photo however that not only was I able to see one, but I also snuck a photograph, although I will not say I was allowed to do this. That little green pigeon absolutely did not want to be seen by me, and as soon as it realized it had been discovered, it jolted up, and flew off in a hurry. I have never seen a bird more startled or panicked by my presence. I had really given up all hope of ever seeing this bird, after so many forays into the wild in search of it, and in the end, I had found it through a new bird-sighting technique I had developed after many such unsuccessful hunts. This technique I call looking-for-birds-by-not-looking-for-birds, and I will explain what this means. Of course, it’s not really a good name for the technique, and it should probably be immediately renamed, because the whole point is that you are in fact looking for birds. The secret of the technique lies in how you approach the looking, and I can give you analogy that you don’t need because this is very easy to understand, and I just love analogies. Instead of walking around your house looking on every counter and under every pillow in search of your keys, with this technique, you simply sit on the floor of the living room, and wait for your keys to come to you. Obviously this does not work with keys, (although when you stop and think about it you’re probably more likely to remember where you put them) because birds are really nothing like keys. Birds move around a whole lot more, and birds are more perceptive than you and I, and have better eyesight and the higher ground. They will always see you before you see them, and they will probably hear you too. So, I learned through experience that looking for birds by walking around and saying, “Here birdie birdie birdie!” is pretty useless, but if instead, you pick out a nice spot on the ground and sit there and wait, you will have great success. That’s how I found the aobato, and a whole lot of other birds. I would go out into the meadow behind the Lord’s estate, and sit somewhere where I could survey all, and just wait. I would do this in the mornings, most often, when the birds were at their chirpiest and most active. It was amazing an amazing place to be, on these mornings, to see and hear the incredible whirlwind of bird activity, and it really was a whirlwind. It wasn’t always at the same time of morning. Sometimes it was the crack of dawn, as early as 4 am, other times they seemed to take it easy and relax for a few hours into the day before starting up, but whenever it happened, when it was decidedly bird party o’clock, they were all in, and every bird in the forest was a part of it. All the action happened at this time, and you knew it was happening because it sounded like every single bird in the forest was singing its little lungs out, and all kinds of different birdies would be shooting across the meadow every which way, perched in the trees, flittering in and around them. It is an incredibly joyful thing. It’s really hard to watch a bunch of birds in their morning joy and not be delighted. On one morning, I was truly awake for the very first call of the day. It was the morning of my first solo camping. A major achievement, and I had successfully survived (at one point in the night I had doubts if I would), and I had woken up even before the dawn, the pre-dawn, and watched the sky brighten through the tiny screen in the apex of the tent, that I gambled with and left uncovered by the rain flap, so I could do just such a thing, and I swear not a minute after, even thirty seconds after I had the thought, “I wonder when the birds will start chirping…”, right on cue the first chirp came. Soon after that, the Hototogisu came, the “lesser cuckoo”. Then there was singing all night long.

On one of my Aobato forays I found something else that I had been looking for. But really, I should say that it found me. We found each other, out there, two wanderers in the woods. The Aobato (the green pigeon) call is distinct and there is nothing else like it out in those woods. It was also loud, and I could hear them often from the house. I kept my windows open at all times to hear all the calls, and many times I would hear something new or strange and run over to the window, or outside if I had to, to see what I could see, and in this way I discovered several birds, such as the Ooakagera, the White-backed Woodpecker, who I heard, from a tree 30 meters out in front of the house, all the way from my bedroom, by the pure force of their banging into the tree, and the Kogera, the Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, who also has a very cute chirp, and my ears were frequently delighted with both the light hammering and cute chirping of this tiny bird. Actually it was good luck that there are two dead trees right outside the back of The Lord’s estate, both in clear view from the window, and so I got to see woodpeckers too. Woodpeckers like dead trees because they have little yummy bugsies in them. In total I saw three different kinds of woodpeckers – the Kogera, the Ooakagera, and the third, the Aogera, or the Japanese Green Woodpecker. On the second day of my arrival I beheld it in all its colorful beauty as I stood at the window with Scrumpillion himself – and then to my dismay, never again.

Aogera – Japanese Green Woodpecker

This woodpecker was hanging around though, as many of these birds were, even if they didn’t show themselves. I spent many hours waiting at the window, for many birds, but especially for this bird, gazing at my dead trees longingly, camera on the ledge of the window, bug-screen slightly cracked. I had to keep the screen cracked, even at the risk of Giant Japanese Death Hornets (Suzumebachi) flying into my room, so that I wouldn’t scare the birds off when I opened it to take a picture. Giant Japanese Death Hornets did fly into my room, but actually they have never concerned me, because they are so big and giant and deadly that they must have nothing to fear, and are very relaxed and self-assured, and so they don’t care about me. That Aogera never showed itself again, but I knew it was out there, because one day, as I sat in my chamber and listened to various bird calls, when I came to the Aogera, I played the call, and immediately from the woods outside came the same call in response. I probably could have used the call to bait one, but I learned that this is not a good thing to do, as you are deceiving the birds, and that is immoral. (Really it is a problem because birds are A. very territorial and B. looking for love, and so when they hear the call they will either frantically search for the intruder, or frantically search for new love, and waste energy doing so.) If you die in Japan, and have been naughty, you will be sent to one of many various hells as punishment for the crimes you’ve commited in your earthly debauchery, with a creative and relevant punishment to meet the crime. I have seen some of these firsthand as displayed with cutting edge animatronics and state of the art plaster demon sculpting. I can only imagine the tortures one would be submitted to in the Hell of Bird Deception. (They deceive you?)

Ooakagera – White-backed Woodpecker, loudbird that I found outside the house
My friendly local Kogera scouring one of the dead trees
Did you know birds blink?
My first video ever (kawaii chirping included!)

The thing that found me and I found it was a deer. I had wondered if and when I would see a deer. I thought some of these animals would be much easier to spy than they were. The boar included. But when I was least expecting to find a deer, I found one, which is the same with the Aobato, and maybe a general rule in finding things in nature, because you just don’t really get to have your way with nature. I was pursuing the Aobato call that I had heard from on the other side of the hill, down in a valley where some lumber work was being done, and I had just crossed the hilltop with the baseball field and the few homes and estate of The Lord and was descending a steep path that made an S-curve down into the valley. I heard the Aobato calling from here often, as well as the Aogera, but every time I had come through here I had found nothing at all. I was still at the top of this path, having just branched off the main road to the top of the hill, and was squatting there, peering into the trees, as I was currently on the same elevation with many of the upper-middles of the trees, where a lot of the branching begins, and I could see into the branches and up into the leaves, and would be able to see better if any bird flew into them, as that is a difficult thing with birdwatching, and why binoculars are so helpful, because at the bottom of a tall tree, even if you have good enough eyesight to actually spy a bird all the way at the top, you won’t be able to tell anything more than that it is actually a bird. I was just squatting here, peering out into the forest, waiting patiently for the Aobato to land on a well-lit perch right out in front of me and pose for the camera, when I had the sudden feeling that I myself was being watched, and so I turned to the right, looking down the trail, and saw just a few meters from me, coming up over the ridge, a large animal. It wasn’t moving, and it was standing in the shade, so I couldn’t make out what it was at first, and I thought initially that it was a boar, because I thought more often about boars, knowing them to be around, and not as often about deer – but then I saw its left ear flap down, just like a dog’s would, and I realized that it was a deer. This deer was staring right at me and seemed very much like it also couldn’t tell what I was, and was trying to figure that out, so we were both just stuck there, staring confusedly at each other. Only the top half of its body was showing, up over the ridge. I had my super bird shooter lens at the ready, and knew that if I could get the photo, it would be a real closeup, like the whole face filling the frame closeup, but I also felt that any sudden movements would scare this little deer right off, and I would have lost a magical moment, and for no photo, and so I just looked away (wild animals don’t like to be stared at) and continued to squat there. Another second passed, and I glanced over to see how things were going with my deer friend, and saw that not only was it still there, but it had even taken a step up onto the ridge, to get a closer look. I knew it couldn’t be long before it figured out that I was a big scary human and run right away. I decided it was now or never, and went for the photo. I swiveled, raised my bulky super deer shooter lens up, pointed it in the deer’s direction, looked through the viewfinder.. and saw nothing but leaves. I had totally whiffed, and now wiggled it around desperately, trying to catch a trace of brown, of fur, or snout, anything, and was still whiffing. I pulled my eye away to try and reset, just in time to see this deer wise up and bolt down off the ridge, into the valley, and out into the woods beyond. Actually I continued to squat there, both in sadness and in hope, for some time after. Yes, I was sad.. if that’s the right word.. I was pained that I had just had such an incredible opportunity to photograph a wild deer’s face and blew it, but I was also hopeful that it may have run only a short distance off, and then stopped to look back, as a curious creature might, and then maybe I could scavenge something out of the situation. But unfortunately I never saw that deer again, or any other one, in my time in Ubuyama.

Ikaru – Japanese Grosbeak

One of my first notes from being in Ubuyama (I write a lot of quick notes down in a journal) representing a typical Ubuyama exploration session: “Morning うぶやま (Ubuyama, written in hiragana because I couldn’t write the kanji.) explore. Rabbit poop. Spiders. Beautiful rock hill under birch? Not confident that it was a birch with that one plant and ladybug larvae. (Looking back on it this is a confusing sentence.) A grove. Fly? (It was a fly.) with long curved tail, red eyes, yellow stripe on tail. A grove. (Grove written twice, I must have been excited about it.) Crashing out at the end. (I decided to climb down a hill that turned very steep at the end which resulted in me jumping off into some thick bush and grass.) Wanting to poop but not wanting to desecrate the place. Also concerns about wiping.”

The fly was one of these, an Ocyptamus, which I think we can all agree is a pretty wacky looking fly (source: Maryland Biodiversity Project)

Prior to the previous note in my journal was this one: “Set a trap. Got me with the MTG music. (YouTube MTG Arena music)“.

The Lord Wombus is cunning. At the time of my move to Ubuyama I was attempting to escape the extremely powerful orbit of the planet Magic The Gathering that I had again fallen into. Magic The Gathering is a nerdy card game for nerds. It’s very fun though. The physical card game itself is dangerous, but mostly in that it compels me to play the virtual one, which goes by the name of Magic The Gathering: Arena. The Lord knew that I desired to free myself from this planet, yet we had some good fun in the narrow space between the boundaries of Magic’s snaring gravity and the liberating void beyond. It was dangerous, but would bring me some small thrill to even speak the relevant words (“Magic”, or “The Arena”, or “Mono red”), and I would at times turn to The Lord Wombus and say, “Something something Lizard Blades..” Or, “Something something Experimental Synthesizer..” Or, “Can I play Magic now?” And he would of course say no. But The Lord himself, he was allowed to play, having the rock solid self-control that you would expect of such a noble and lordly figure (there is no weakness in him), and was a fan of card games, and so for some time, before we saw that it was simply impossible, would dabble in it (I had a brief stint as his MTG coach), and so it could occasionally be heard, wafting over from his quarters, the sounds that have become ingrained in me. The sounds of the Arena. One day, and I believe by then we had already established that no Magic was to be had in any possible form, no reference of any kind and no utterance of any related words, I was lounging in my room, safely, with the laundry pole out on the stairs, and I heard something that stops me completely. It is a siren song, piercing down to the very depths of my soul. Its power is overwhelming, and almost automatically I surrender to it, and seek the source. It comes from Wombus’s lair, and so I enter. I see no Wombus – just an empty chair, and a computer in front of it. A familiar sight, a familiar glow. Beckoning. I step further in, and the screen comes into view. I look at it excitedly, anticipatingly. Before me is not the home page of Magic The Gathering: Arena, but instead a YouTube page, with the words “MTG Arena music” in the search bar. The MTG Arena main theme is playing, and I see now that I have been snared like a rat by the cheese. A rat in the full throws of a cheese-crazed mania. In both rage and shame I call out, “You bastard!” Gleeful cackles emanate from the royal poo-chamber below. The cackles of a Scrumpillion thrilled at his success. Only a mind so devious and intricate as his would devise such trivial mischief for his pooptime pleasure.

Kakesu – Eurasian Jay

What I wrote the morning after my first solo camp experience: “I have returned. What did we learn? やっぱり (yappari, meaning, “As I thought”) it got cold. Had no rain cap. (For the tent.) But no rain until the morning. Lucky. Choosing the spot is very important. My spot was not very good. Not flat at all. And despite the thick grass, quite hard. I heard things. Soft squeaking. Thinking it was mice. And at one point something dashed right by the tent. Then there was the boar. Or boars. Hard to tell how close they got but the grunting was unmistakable. Was that 2, 3, 4 am? I was nervous, even scared. Imagined myself in the middle of a curious and aggressive pack, out prowling for the night. I thought about them coming right up to my exposed head and sniffing it, kicking it. (My head was not actually out of the tent but was bulging out of the side because the tent was so small, and so felt very exposed.) Thought about them trampling the tent. About what I should do if any of that happened. Was thinking I could run to that “tree.” Good thing it didn’t come to that because there was no climbing that thing. Went out of the tent headfirst to pee. Not a good way to greet any マムシ. (Mamushi are an aggressive venomous snake living in these parts. The internet says their strike range is about 30cm. We will not try and test this number.) Hungry last night, hungry this morning. Smiling after the first bird [chirps]. (Accidentally wrote chips.) I feel alone in the middle of human town. In that apartment in 大津 (Ozu), in the middle of human world, I was alone. In the middle of the woods, when I am actually more distanced from anyone, and there are simply less people around, I feel completely connected. Because I am. Connected to the source, connected to what I know, what we all know... What you have been doing here, is research. Research into alternate ways of living, research into meaning, research into loneliness; very core, very essential components of the human experience. This is some of the most important research you will ever do. I wonder if putting up boxes would lead owls to come to this area. (I had been wondering if there weren’t owls because there wasn’t anywhere for them to roost.) Last night there was a moment where I realized exactly what I was doing, and I felt deeply, wholly, completely free. And I also felt that I wanted to play guitar.”

Directly before that particularly lengthy summary I have the two short notes. “The unexamined life [is] not worth living.” Followed by, “Black t-shirt fashion. Only black t-shirts.

A Hayabusa (Peregrine Falcon) or Tsumi (Japnese Sparrowhawk) divebombs a Kumataka (Mountain Hawk-Eagle)
Return strike

The difference between hawks and eagles was not confusing enough, and so all-knowing ornithologists created the mighty hawk-eagle, and we all became confused again. The crow-raven is coming.

Kumataka call

I found this action again by listening. I heard this call come in through the windows of my bird box. It was a totally new one to me, and that was rare, now that I’d been here for two or three weeks. I immediately grabbed the camera and raced outside. An incredible scene greeted me. I had learned soon after my move that birds are territorially aggressive and will attack other birds that fly up in their space. Aerial turf wars are very real in bird world. Once when Wombus and I had taken a trip into the big city (that is compared to Ubuyama), Aso, we watched a pair of crows kindly escort a buzzard out of their airspace. Birds have such nice manners. I also saw a Hiyodori attack and kill another Hiyodori.. but Hiyodori be crazy.

Hiyodori – a crazy bird
In English, Brown-eared Bulbul
しゃれとんね!

Actually I have a lot of love for this bird. These are the noisiest and most fidgety birds in Japan. At least in Kyushu.

Hiyodori call
A familiar sound

There were few birds I could count on seeing every single day, and the Hiyodori was one of them. These fiesty buggers were out fighting, squeaking, chittering, swooping, diving, sailing, soaring, and wiggling in the trees and meadow just outside The Lord’s Manor, at almost all times of the day. I couldn’t spot it (although I tried), but I think they had a nest in one of the tall cedars right behind the house. When the other birds had cooled their jets, the Hiyodori jets were still running very, very hot. I witnessed the bird murder at the spot I had chosen for my first camping, in the woods back behind the house, following the sounds of aggravated chirping, the bird equivalent of screaming, and at first only saw a scuffle, and not in clear view. When I walked over to investigate, I thought everyone had flown off, and stood there longer only to play peek-a-boo with what I think was a baby Mejiro. It was a teeny-tiny and unusually curious little Mejiro (but I read that young birds are typically more curious and less shy), who was hanging around and maybe a bit startled by the murder, which had happened right behind me, and I only knew so because the victim then spasmed a death spasm, and I spun around to find, having been initially obscured by low hanging cedar branches, a Hiyodori that was perfectly intact, and with a neck at a ninety-degree angle. That took the Hiyodori from being in my regard the bird with extreme ADHD to the murderous bird with extreme ADHD. I went and searched about this, of course. Apparently male Hiyodori are extra wild during mating season.

For what reason this Hayabusa (the Peregrine Falcon) was divebombing a Kumataka (Mountain Hawk-Eagle) I do not know, but it was happening, and it was a sight to see. The bird equivalent of David and Goliath. This little divebomber was giving big mighty hawk-eagle a heck of a time and big mighty hawk-eagle wanted none of it. Probably the most memorable takeaway I have from this experience aside from just the general emotional imprint that was left on me from witnessing such a bird battle was that more birds than just owls can turn their heads 180 degrees around behind them. And you can in the same photo see why this would be useful. (In that first photo, the Kumataka has turned its head directly around to spot the diving Hayabusa.) I wish I would have recorded some of this scuffle, but I hadn’t learned about recording video yet – that would not come until Ryoka’s great wisdom (“You should take videos!”) and the Kogera.

Luckily my special friend waited to appear until after I was a cinematic master. One day, as I stood in the Lord’s kitchen preparing my daily oats, I for no particular reason glanced out of the sliding glass windows to the right of me. You are extremely unlikely to see anything of interest out of those windows, so thought I, until that day – because what I saw then took my breath away. Right behind the house, in full view, snuffling around the base of a tree, was a large, furry, Anaguma – AKA hole bear, AKA badger. Boom, right there, a freaking badger. This was a lot for me to process. I had not expected to see a badger, I had never seen a badger, I had forgotten all about badgers, and without warning, here was a badger. The all-knowing Kihara sensei had prepped me for this moment by having shown me a video of a badger that she recorded, a badger that frequented her yard, and so I could recognize it at once. Upon seeing the badger, I had two thoughts. 1. badger, 2. camera. This badger had to be digitally recorded in the annals of history. I ran upstairs and grabbed my camera, while briefly debating over whether to change the lens or not, as I had the super zoom lens on (a 400x, so actual photographers will laugh when I call that a super zoom, but still that’s a lotta’ zoom) and I knew the shots would be closeups, but I didn’t know how long I had with this badger (and who doesn’t love a good badger headshot, am i rite fellas) and so I just went with it. I tried to open the window, and the screen, as gingerly as possible. The window was the easy part; the screen was the real challenge. It wouldn’t slide easily and made way too much noise. The scuffling of the screen would have certainly scared away any bird, but this badger was not nearly so timid. Actually, it really did not seem to give a hootenanny. It looked up, which really means it was just looking out. I don’t think that badger could have looked up at me if it wanted to, not without sitting down at least. I at once stopped sliding the screen, holding my breath – and then it went right back to snuffling. I then had a full two minutes, maybe three, to photograph this lovely badger. I think I did pretty good.

AnagumaEurasian Badger
Delicious bark
Gimme this delicious bark

As you can see, it was really liking that bark. In the first photo especially I think our little friend looks almost boar-like, and on showing this photo a few people did think it was a boar, with that bristly fur and long snout. Look closely and you can see a tick on the right ear. It really bothered me that our little friend was being parasitized, but you will be pleased to know that in a photo just a bit later, as it trotted off, there was no tick to be seen. I’m sure that it just felt bad about parasitizing such a lovely creature as this badger, and decided to renounce its bloodsucking ways, as we all eventually do, and definitely did not crawl deep into the ear canal. I’m sure that’s what happened.

The badger mulled around outside the back, enjoyed some stump gnawing and grass frolicking, then meandered off to a thick bush behind the neighbor’s house, and presumably went down the hill and into the forest. I do not let special first time forest creatures go so easily. I pursued this beast to see if I could get any more shots. I was doubtful as it now must have heard me, as stealthy as I was being (not stealthy), but I had to try anyway. I was right that I had alerted it, because after leaving the house, I spied it between a gap in houses, having upgraded from a meandering trundle to a brisk trot, as it trotted along the trail that led into the forest. The way that it trotted, combined with the look on its face, and the fact that it did not bother to look my way, made me feel very much that it was still totally unconcerned with my presence, and had only picked up the pace because it knew it was still probably the smart thing to do. Because, you know, “Humans.” I put that in quotes because I’m imagining the badger rolling its eyes and saying to itself then, as it heard the door opening, and the footsteps on the gravel, and the smell of my musty mountain man self filling its piggie snouter, “Human.” Or maybe it was more of an, “Oop, gotta go!” I adopted a similar air of nonchalance and walked through the gap in the houses onto the trail, looking to the right, and saw nothing. It had ducked off into a patch of thick, tall grass on the edge of the forest, and was safe in badger world again. I would see this badger again, a few more times, before I left. It made me quite happy knowing that I had a loveable creature like that hanging around.

I also saw a cat. Look at those eyes. This is a crazy-eyed killa.

Wild cat

All in all, out there in the Ubuyama wilderness.. there were some tough days, where I was feeling lonely, when the weather was crap and I couldn’t go out, and I was stuck inside. I think that was the second week. For the most part though, I really enjoyed staying at this cabin in the woods, and with my pal Scrumpillion. What I miss the most is how easy it was to make cool nature discoveries. Mostly insects. Never in my life has it been so easy to find insects to photograph. It became a routine with me, that sometime near late afternoon early evening, I would pop on the macro lens and the flash, step outside, and go a’hunting, and after ten, fifteen, twenty forays into the wild, I was still able to find something new, several things new, every single time. I didn’t have to drive anywhere, or make any plans, I just had to walk outside. Having nature so accessible, being right in it.. When I reflect on it, that’s what I miss the most. Going out for a walk and coming face to face with a deer, looking up from your oats and seeing a badger in the yard, having an owl hoot right outside your window, hearing a wild new bird call and wondering what it could possibly be, trying not to step on newts during your stroll through the forest, finding a crab in the middle of the woods.. it’s an exciting life.

It’s very interesting, loneliness. You would think that living with so few people around, spending so much time alone would make you lonely, but actually, even though I was much more removed from human contact during my stay in Ubuyama, I wasn’t lonely. My almost sole source of face-to-face social interaction was Scrumpillion, and that wasn’t much – but it was enough. I did not feel lonely at Ubuyama. It might sound crazy to say it, but the birds and the bugs, the boars and the badgers were my friends. It comforted me to know that they were around. Also the Australian. They sung to me and entertained me. They did tabata and watched meme compilations on 2x speed. Their existence alone was enough to satisfy me.

Jumping spider
White Ermine

There is something certain about nature. Something secure in it. Humanity doesn’t have it. We’re anxious and existentialist. We have emotional baggage. We don’t know what to do with ourselves. We crave meaning. How tiring. I imagine that simply by not having thoughts an ant spends its entire life in some state of Zen. Honestly, that must be pretty nice. And then you get super strength and the ability to feel no pain. Sign me up.

Call it a wrap? We can call it a wrap. Let me do one more scan through the old notebooks.

I really wanted to see an owl. I really wanted to see an owl. A few days into my Ubuyama stay, I heard one hooting. I went back to that spot on many nights, and once on a day, scouring the area for whitewash (white streaks on the trunk of a tree), a sign that an owl is roosting there. Never any luck. And then, on my second to last night, an owl started hooting right outside of my window. There were several hoots. I threw on clothes and raced outside. But of course, the hooting stops, and there is no owl to be seen. These birds were messing with me man.

Before I was brave enough to do the solo camping, I had set the challenge for myself to walk through the woods alone at night. All the way through. There was a path behind The Lord’s estate, that cut through the woods and went down into civilization. (The center of town, which was a school, a post office, a local city hall, a small general store, and like six houses.) Walking it didn’t take long, only about ten minutes. In the dead of night though, the forest is the forest, and it doesn’t matter how far you are from civilization. As you soon as you’re out of range of the nearest home or human, you’re alone in the woods. That was really spooking me, and I wasn’t able to get very far from the house at all before I got the hibee jibees. It was bugging me that I would get so freaked out by these woods just because it was dark, when I had spent so much time in them during the day, and of course you know logically that there’s nothing out here that’s going to hurt you, right. But still I got the hibee jibees. All those horror movies did something to me. But one night, after chugging my red wine and working up a good buzz, I grabbed the trusty flashlight and out I went. I powered through, no fear. Alcohol is a helluva drug. And after that, I was never scared again. I was a man of the woods. Until I tried to sleep out there. I was a little scared again then.

One day, I “went for a jog”. I really meant to do that. I ended up on a four hour excursion deep into the woods. That just happens out there. And once I’m on the trail, I can’t give it up. It’s a little bit addicting that way. I took it all the way to a clearing of trees in the middle of a few sizeable hills, and exhausted, with no clear trail to follow, finally called it the end. Then I spotted the most magnificent tree ever. There are some trees that just hit you right. They are the kings and queens of the forest. Older, bigger, thicker, gnarled, shapely trees. They’ve got a story and some secrets. This was one of those trees. And it was growing right out of the side of the hill, the steepest hill, angled out at about forty-five degrees, so that it could spread its massive branches out into the open space away from the other trees, and become a lord. This tree was an absolute boss, and when I saw it I had an overwhelming urge to climb it. Along that forty-five degree angle of the trunk, not far up there was the first of many thick branches, and that extended out horizontally over the valley below. If there were any big cats around, it was pretty much the most perfect spot ever for a big cat to lay and survey its kingdom, as big cats are inclined to do. I pushed my way through the tough bush at the base of the hill, slipped and slid in the soft dirt while scaling it, and finally monkeyed my way up onto the trunk, where I then, extremely cautiously, scooted myself up to that branch. This was high enough up where if I fell I would almost 100% break something important to me, if not die, and without a phone, would have to crawl pathetically for too many hours to someone who could help, and that was on my mind. It was very slow scooting. But when I got up onto that branch, and layed across it, I felt exactly like a big jungle cat would, secure on their perch in a tall tree, and looking out over all. I stayed there for I don’t know how long, just enjoying that feeling, and it was an incredible one. I was hoping to see anything come down into the valley below, unaware of me, a deer or boar or bird, but nothing did. Then I stayed up there a little bit longer, after I had wanted to go back down, because I didn’t have the nerve yet to attempt the descent. That was much harder to do. I tried to reverse-scoot my way back down, until it got too steep, and then slid the rest of the way down, clamping the trunk with my thighs, and tearing up a good amount of skin in the process. So that gave me something to remember the trip by.

Other highlights.. James gave me his thick canvas jacket to wander around in. It was dark green and had some faux fur hood. That thing was tough and warm, an absolutely perfect adventurer jacket. I’m sure no Australian would be caught without one. Behind the house, in the meadow where I would watch birds and bug hunt, there was some dense, springy grass on the side of a slope, underneath a line of trees. One morning, after going out there to see what was up with the birdos, wrapped in the jacket, I threw up that faux fur hood, plopped down in the grass, and took a nap. That was awesome. And I see how cloaks were so useful. Basically a wearable blanket/sleeping bag. On another foray, I found a crab in the woods. Yes, in the middle of the woods, I found a crab. It was peeking out of some lush grass down in a ravine where a teeny tiny stream ran through. That was an incredible thing, that forest crab. When you think of creatures that you’d expect to find deep in the middle of the woods, does crab come to mind? Not for me. But there it was.

I also spent a rainy day following boar trails. I was prepared to come face-to-face with one or several boars at any time. I stumbled on a trail inadvertently, when I was looking for newts. There were these little black newts with red bellies everywhere. They were very cute, and they liked it moist. Then I found a mud trail and followed it. There was a lot of slipping and sliding. Those boars like it steep. Nothing really interesting happened here. I was on edge the whole time, wondering if and when I would find the boars. And what I would actually do when I did. I knew that they don’t like surprises, and basically any boar that saw me out there would have 100% been surprised. I guess the reason why boars are particularly dangerous is because their tusks are right at about the average adult’s thigh height, so when you get gored, you get gored in one of the worst possible places. My plan to avoid this goring was to attempt to scale something nearby. It was a flimsy plan. I was really able to experience the boar life, traipsing around out here, but I did a very poor job of following these trails. They were low, so I was squatting most of the time, and it often became incredibly steep, and with the mud I would completely obliterate their tracks, turning those parts of the trail from stairs to a pure mudslide. I’m sure they came through later and saw the carnage, and smelled the dirty human, and were like, wtf mate.

I think that about wraps it up – my time in the Ubuyama wilderness. Thank you to The Lord Scrumpillion Wombus for hosting me, and thank you to you for reading all the way to the end!

Okinawa/The Unveiling Of Hakumusu/Look Mom, Photos! – 沖縄

My people.

Santa’s got a brand new bag.

I have returned to you after this long and grueling haitus with an expansive new vision for the future of this blog. It’s been half a year or more now, I believe, and I’m sorry to have kept you waiting, but like everybody, I’ve been busy, and (mostly) I have been putting my time to good use, and it is in your interest, because I’ve spent the past few months enjoying my newfound photography life, and thus I’ve had the brilliant idea to merge my photos with my blog, and this means that I’ve had to do some heavy lifting with this blog, much heavier than you would imagine (than I did, at least), for just wanting to combine photos and writing, but heavy lifting it has been.

Let’s take a moment to enjoy some photos.

Okinawan Shores
East Okinawa Coastline
Black and White Architecture
Cool Black And White Rendition Of A Building That Is A Big Street Butthole
Adorable Akahige (Ryukyu Robin, called Red Beard in Japanese, but, why..? Japanese joke)
Cycad Cliff
A Couple Of Bingle Boys And A Shisa

Do you enjoy them? Please tell me you enjoy them.

This post is long. You have been warned. It is so long that a table of contents has been requested. I’ll put that right here.

Contents


日本人の友達へ。このブログで使っている僕の日本語はあまり上手ではないことは分かっています。将来的に、日本語で投稿をできるように頑張ります。僕の投稿で感動や笑いを皆に届けられたらと思います。でもとりあえず、英語で。頑張って!


Skin

I have stuck with this all because I know that in the end it will have all been worth it, for you and for me, who this blog is both for. I don’t know if I can still even really call it a blog, as I feel that we have risen up in the ranks, because I am now armed with the all-powerful WordPress Business account, and that means I am a business man, and can do all the business things, like download plugins that prevent people from right-clicking on my site to download my photos only to install it and see that it doesn’t work, or buy plugins that will give me really great slideshows and find out that the plugin crashes my site, and I can’t see the photos in the slideshow anyway, because something is wrong with my DNS cache, and all of the photos are grey, which I can fix by going into WordPress classic mode, but then I can’t use the new block technology, and also, none of my edits will save unless I smash the save changes button with my forehead while screaming “Save it you bastard!!” Of course that last part is a joke.. but given all that I’ve been through up until this point, I wouldn’t be surprised if they asked me to do that. And by they I mean the WordPress support, who are wonderful people, and are only a chat away, offering 24/7 support, and you can see why that’d be necessary, because without it everyone would cancel their plans and flee the site after the 3rd incomprehensible popup that tells them “Sorry but you can’t do this thing you would like to do!” I think I am just having a particularly tough time because I have literally no idea what I’m doing. And YouTube hero Tyler Moore made it look so easy… I have stuck with it all, and we are finally going to see the vision played out in reality, a vision which is basically just me writing, but then also with photos. I feel that I have spent so much time “working on the site” and so much time thinking about it, and every time I visit it, I think, how, how is it possible that so little has been done? I am getting a rough introduction into the world of website design, and the larger computer world in general, I suppose. I have to say that I don’t really like it at all, and I wonder if that will ever change. I do now have a great appreciation for the engineers of the world, the digital masterminds, because they are doing the work of wizards.

Before we get into the meat of this real meaty post, I would like to share with you a little episode that happened to me a few weeks ago, to give you a familiar jumping off point, and to show you that while my life has changed in many respects, it also is basically the same, here in my little Ozu town.

I was sitting at my desk in the teacher’s room (big room with most of the teachers, open desks), with Kusuyama sensei sitting at her desk next to mine. She turns to me, opening a bag, and says “Miyamoto sensei brought apples. Do you want one?” And I was very surprised and pleased, because I haven’t had an apple in a very long time, I’m sure many months, could have been half a year, perhaps not since I’ve lasted posted. The reason for that being that apples here are, like strawberries, too pricey for my “poor man budget mentality” (budget is the incorrect word here, as apparently I am not poor, bur rather have the mindset of a poor man (i.e., frugal); as a rich man has recently told me) and so I go to the other fruits. In apple season they’re about 100 yen (one US smackeroo) which is reasonable and I will pay that. Off season they’re more. But this apple was a free and delicious-looking apple and I took it gladly. I said, “Thank you to Miyamoto sensei!” who then at that time happened to be walking right up to our desks. Kusuyama sensei says, “She’s right here, you can thank her now!” And she tells Miyamoto sensei that she just gave me one of her apples. And Miyamoto sensei looks at me, and I look at her, and I say, “ありがとうございます!はだを食べます!” (Arigatougozaimasu. Hada wo tabemasu.) I decided to add the hada wo tabemasu as a little bonus at the end, because I thought it would be fun, and she would enjoy it. I made a conscious decision to do this. However, as soon as those words left my mouth, I had a strong feeling that I had made a mistake. Miyamoto sensei’s reaction, of “Oh, that’s nice dear!” that you may give to a child who walks up to you and starts babbling incoherent nonsense, helped me to feel that, and my knowledge of the Japanese language helped as well; but it did not, however, help enough to save me from saying what I said. The moment passed and I immediately turned to Kusuyama sensei to confirm my suspicions. I said to her, pointing at the skin of the apple, “Kusuyama sensei, what do you call this?” She says, “Kawa.” And I said, “If I say, hada wo tabemasu, what do you imagine?” And Kusuyama sensei, laughing, pulled her arm out, and pantomimed biting it. And my suspicion was confirmed, that I had just said to Miyamoto sensei, “Thank you for the apple! I eat human skin!”

My mistake was that there is a specific word for skin, in Japanese, for human skin, and that is hada. What I was trying to say was that I would eat the skin of the apple, as Japanese people often don’t eat the skins of fruits, and I thought it would be fun, to say that. That I will be enjoying the skin of this fruit. I wanted to try and be fun. What happened instead is that Miyamoto sensei returned to her teacher’s room, and says to the other teachers, “Well, our ALT is a skin eater.” And someone probably replied with, “Yappari.” (I knew it.) And this is why I am still so wary of speaking. I just never know what exactly is going to come out of my mouth. But what I thought was quite interesting was that, if I had not realized my mistake myself, I never would have known I said anything wrong. I feel that Kusuyama sensei has some duty to protect me from making such grave mistakes, but she had already turned back to her work, and Miyamoto sensei had already given me a confused smile, and the moment was over. If I hadn’t personally recognized my error, I would have told Miyamoto sensei that day that I was grateful for the apple and I would be eating human skin, and I would have been entirely none the wiser. It just makes me wonder about all of the similarly incorrect things that have come out of my mouth. They must be innumerable. I have been here now for over two and a half years, and my Japanese is only recently not terrible. That is a lot of time to have been telling people I eat human skin.

So there you go. I still can’t speak Japanese (coherently). Now let’s get to the good stuff.

(For some context, these writings and accompanying photos are all in reference to a seven day trip to Okinawa I took with friends Juicy James Cool and Mr. Parker Junior in the first week of January this year.)

For Reference: Okinawa Bottom Left (The Main Island In The Ryukyu Islands), I Am Living in The Center Of Kyushu

Lessons From Okinawa

On the eleventh day after our return, the trip felt to me like a distant dream. I looked at my photos and felt that I could hardly even remember when I took them. It felt like it could have been years ago, and I think I felt that way mainly because I had by that time fully reintegrated into my standard, pre-Okinawa way of living. That way of living has been, since the start of the covid times, relatively formulaic. The people have changed, some of them, and my work has changed, some of it, and my hobbies, and various events have peppered it throughout – but the scenery – where I live, where I work, shop, play – has all been the same. And so, on this now well-trodden landscape, you could pick out the Okinawa trip, and move it around, at any point on this treadmill, and drop it down, and it wouldn’t really matter. It would still only delineate itself by the primary fact that it just wasn’t here, where I’ve been for so long now, here in Ozu machi, Kumamoto.

I absolutely reveled in this freedom, the freedom that comes with travel. Freedom from the ordinary. From the plain dullness of my everyday life.


I’ve thought about this. I still think about it. In the days coming back from Okinawa, I was shocked. Shellshocked, I’ve been saying. The first night back, I drank a liter of wine. Alone, in my apartment. It was a coping mechanism. I was coping with the shock. You see, I had just tasted that freedom. I had just tasted joy, adventure, excitement, thrill, warmth, stimulation.. I had just spent over a week, ten days, free from this ordinary. Ten days in different places, and with people. Sleeping together, laughing together, exploring together, talking, bonding, arguing, eating, drinking. Doing what people do. I got ten days of it, glorious sociality, and upon coming back to my Ozu apartment, finding that I wanted still more, that I was just starting to find its rhythm, this new way of living, and it was gone, as quickly as it came. The social stimulation was one thing, and the joy of travel, and all the excitement.. New places, new culture, new sights, sounds, tastes, all of this, panoply of fresh experience, to be taken in. Okinawa shattered my monotony. And then, I was brought back. I resisted. I held out for as long as I thought sensible, taking another week of vacation. I schemed ways of escape, of protection, of deliverance, taking more time off, taking every single day off, quitting the job entirely, and getting out of dodge – but I deemed it all too drastic, too desperate, and my old life reclaimed itself, dragging me, at first kicking and screaming, then more dejectedly, back into the normal. It hurts, but each day that passes, it hurts less. So quickly I forget, forget the freedom I felt, the creativity and the imagination and enthusiasm, and richness, that had so infused those days.


In those days, after the trip, I really struggled to understand what it meant. What was happening to me. I reached out to friends for insight. On that first night back, the liter of wine night, I wrote to James and Parker, a drunken ramble, but all true, and with surprisingly coherent phrasing and with correct grammar (proud of this), that I found it just so incomprehensibly strange, that we all just, having spent all that time together, having becoming what I felt was an intimate tribe, that we just separated, and went back to our respective boxes, cordoned ourselves off from each other, us, as humans, social creatures, that we did that willingly, and that it’s not considered lunacy, but the exact opposite, in fact; it’s normal. I woke up the next morning with only a single message in response. “Health check?” I ran this all by Ryoka, the shellshocking, and she told me, “That’s called vacation crisis.” And she’s right. I read about it, that many people consider quitting their jobs after getting away on a vacation. I understand what is meant by vacation crisis. I don’t know if I would call it a crisis. I don’t really like how commonly that word is used. It feels flippant to me. But I do think that that this Okinawa trip laid bare that there are some things fundamentally wrong with my current way of living, and that may be what’s at the root of all vacation crisises, that once we are free to step back, get some distance, and with a fresh perspective, we take a good look at the lives we’re living, and find that we don’t really like what we see. Sure a vacation should be fun, but even at the end of the greatest vacation you shouldn’t find yourself recoiling in horror at the thought of returning to your pre-vacation life. If you do, then you must have a problem. For me, I have come to the conclusion that my problems are two, and common ones: lack of purpose, and loneliness. Loneliness is crippling, as they say – it undoubtedly is what has driven me to drink too much on those worst nights, and living in a small town, living alone, already having tenuous ties to the community as a foreigner (although I have always felt very welcomed and integrated here), and during a pandemic, as we enter a new phase of lockdowns, and yet another state of emergency, and it’s winter, and finding myself with an increasing feeling of uselessness at work.. it’s not a real shocker that I do feel isolated. I suppose the real shocker would be if I didn’t. Simply living alone is enough to put you in a high-risk demographic group: People who live alone have an 80% higher risk of depression. Anyways…

So yeah, Okinawa made me happy. Loneliness is my problem. There is great gaping hole in the spot that human connection is supposed to occupy in my life. In the days leading up to and on the Okinawa trip, that hole was filled right up. I spent ten days paired with companions, ten days surrounded by friends. Before leaving for Okinawa, we had a New Year’s party at Parker’s, and although I fell asleep early, and was woken up, harassed, forced to celebrate, shuffled around, finally landing in the middle of the floor, next to Mudra who refused to share the blanket, on a heated carpet that was too hot, listening to Rossi’s Mongolian drum ensembles, that I eventually, late into the night after all others besides myself had managed to fall asleep, had to turn off, then having to smush myself against the wall to let Daniel through to piss, Mudra now snoring, somehow drifting off, waking up to find heated carpet unheated, shivering, and yet upon waking, still feeling perky enough to join in the morning conversation, where I was immediately shouted down, silenced at once, (my voice being too powerful and masculine and loud); still, with all of that, inconvenience and irrationality, still I preferred it to being alone. I thought of families and communities where communal living was or is still practiced, the Iroquois in their longhouses, and the Moravians that all slept together in one big house, and I thought about how completely different that was from my way of living now, and what it would be like to do that every night, day in, day out. I thought it’d be nice, living in a community like that. And whenever I think about this, I think about a study that was done, a study on heart disease. Doctors were curious as to why the rates of cardiovascular disease were so low in a certain community, probing for secrets that they could take to the world, and what they found was that it wasn’t anything in the diet, and it wasn’t anything in the way of exercise – it was simply that they were all living together, with entire extended families parked together under one roof – and this constant belonging, constant social interaction, protected them more from cardiovascular disease than anything else. We know too that social interaction does more to lower rates of morbidity than anything else – exercise, diet, even quitting smoking – more important than anything else, are people. We have the data. We have the anecdotal evidence, I believe, as I’ve just gone through a period of constant sociality, and returning to my private home, depressed, isolated, and miserable. So why do we isolate ourselves? Why do we not view it as insane, as the actual health risk that it is, that we go off and willingly move into empty apartments and homes, alone? I think we should.

Let’s continue.


Shisa

First impressions of Okinawa. At one point, on our first day there, I said to Parker and James, “I had a dream that I was in America, and everyone was Japanese.” That is how I felt on that first day. Not only that I was in some kind of surreal Japanese America, but also that I was in a dream, or some kind of computer generated, synthetic reality. For as we walked, first through the park, seeing homeless people, many of them, mixed with families strolling right on by, with a man crawling out of his wheelchair to relieve himself in the grass, cats everywhere, coming to a beach, with people playing in the sand, a man with a metal detector hunting for treasure, the water just beyond the beach under an overpass, then walking out into a festival, now, surrounded by people, all kinds of people, the people of Okinawa, dressed in all manner of ways, eating cotton candy, and throwing darts, and frying food, with a woman giving strange eyebrows to Parker and James, then coming into another small park..


The dream. The first day there was like being in a dream. You know how in a dream, it feels purposeless, often, and you’re just wandering, guided by something, or rather something is guiding you, the dream is just unfolding out before you, with no real plan to its construction, or no indication as to why what’s happening is happening, and you’re just kind of in it, along for the ride, wondering where it will take you, and how it will unfold? I felt that way, all day, that first day. I just couldn’t shake that feeling. The gray, overcast sky did much to help evoke it. The lax, unhurried, meandering movements of all the Okinawans helped as well. The strange dress, the cats, the unfamiliar sights, of the man relieving himself in a bush, of a large woman with a metal detector scouring a small strip of beach, of an overpass placed over the water just in front of said beach, from the festival stalls, selling all kinds of treats, games, snacks, the festival filled with all kinds of people, with one of them making strange faces at James and Parker, guesticulating wildly with her eyebrows, to the large family, boisterously sauntering down the middle of the street, fanned out to span it in its entirety, the cousins, aunts, uncles, children, young couple in matching Fila jackets, carrying on as if they were in their own living room, the abandoned bike on the side of the road, the trash, and more cats, and now a procession of people waiting on a long stone staircase, waiting to pay their respects to the gods, some of them in t-shirts, some of them in parkas, short skirts, and suits. This entire time, taking in all of this atmosphere, taking in one strange sight after the other, bizarre and surprising visuals generated on repeat, one after another, I just couldn’t shake the feeling that this just wasn’t real – it was so familiar, and yet so unfamiliar at the same time. Perhaps, if we had just come from America, it wouldn’t have felt so strange, so off, that air of looseness, where nobody seemed to really care what anyone else was doing, as opposed to mainland Japan, which has a much more controlled, buttoned up, constrictive air about it, everyone so consciously aware of the face they put forward. It’s hard to describe this, as it is so intangible, this atmosphere, and what exactly it’s comprised of. Even the architecture was off – the worn, blocky buildings, the pastel colors, the strange shapes and designs, the plants growing out of the cracks, corners, and verandas, so that half of the houses looked like they themsevles were alive. The American, I saw in the homeless people. The variety of fashion, or lack of it – that was American (at least, Midwestern, suburban American). The relaxed air about the people. The large and loud family, parading down the street. The metal detector, even, was American to me in a way, as I haven’t seen one anywhere else. The Subway – American. But then, Japan was on display as well – in the cats, in the shrines, in (some of) the fashion, the food, the large, blank, yellow stare of the smiley face stuck to the side of the Smile Hotel, gazing out over the city. That was all Japanese. So what of the people? And the people, I didn’t know what to make of. Many, probably most were Japanese by nationality, but in behavior, not like the Japanese in Kyushu, or Tokyo, and in appearance, on a spectrum – for some of them looked like any Japanese you would have plucked right off the mainland, but others, if you saw them anywhere else, you wouldn’t have thought they were Japanese at all. And that’s because, I would learn later, many of them are not descendants of mainland Japanese, or are to varying degrees. Many of them are native islanders, the Ryukyu people. Many of them are of Chinese descent, or Phillipino, or Taiwanese, or another Eastern Pacific country. Some of them are American, and they’re often conspicuous, especially when dressed in military fatigue, and some of them are Canadian, like our friend Dan. And it is this strange hybrid of cultures, primarily the Ryukyu, Chinese, Japanese, and American, that forms the bulk of what is Okinawa today.


We got to know Okinawan culture more intimately over the course of the trip. We were quite lucky to have been able to see the people out in force, and to get a good look at them, celebrating the New Year. I learned quickly about the Shisa, as well. I had heard of that word Shisa, only a week before embarking, at a mochi making party with the Higashi family in Kikuchi, our first reunion in a long while. The Higashi family had just been in Okinawa, for the two youngest boys’ volleyball tournament, and in talking to English Number One about it, he mentioned the Shisa, and I said, is that an Okinawan greeting, and he said no, but Makisan laughed, and said yes, and then Eichi struck a pose, like a tiger bearing its claws, and said I had to do this when I say it. The conversation was quick, and I didn’t leave it really knowing what a Shisa was, only that it may be some form of Okinawan greeting, and if I say it the Okinawans may laugh at me. Well, it turns out that Shisa is not at all the Okinawan way to say hello – that’s haisai – but rather, the lion guardian spirit of the Ryukyu people. The Shisa, also called Shishi, meaning lion, come in all shapes and sizes (though they’re always.. lion-shaped, although with some of them you couldn’t guess it) and they always come in pairs, one with mouth open, and one with mouth closed. I would learn more about their history and significance only later – at that time, on the island, I only knew that they were special, they were funky, and they were everywhere. Shisa are stuffed into every nook and cranny of Okinawa, and it brought me great joy finding them; a great Okinawa scavenger hunt. You may wonder, really, how many different ways can you portray a lion guardian thing, and thanks to the boundless fountain of creativity that is the human mind, there are many – although there do seem to be some standard, convergent forms. Two types of Shisa, ones that looked like they were just made from fried clay, and another that had been glazed, seemed to be consistently made in the same form.

A Common Variety Shisa
Another Common Variety, The Blue And Green Glaze
A Less Common Variety, The Screamer (Or The “I Can’t Believe You’ve Done This”)
Really Having A Good Scream
A Small And Wild Screamer
Screaming Into The Void
Beholding The Sun God


You will also notice this beautiful white and red roof, and this also I’ve only seen in Okinawa. Mainland Japan does not have Shisa, not commonly, but their own version of them, the komainu, which are typically seen guarding the entrance of shrines. They are not lions like the Shisa, but dogs. Both the shisa and komainu have their origins in China. Okinawa, or I should say the Ryukyu kingdom, at that time, ended up with the Shisa, and mainland Japan with the komainu, although mainland Japan does have the shishi in its culture, in the shishimae, the lion dance.

The Rooves
Another View
The White Lion
The Hobgoblin
Pokemon?
The Demonic Lion
A Traditional Home (Note The Shisa)
It’s Alive

Let’s take a moment to enjoy some more Shisa photos.

Guarding The Sanitizer
Thanks For Keeping Distance
King Of The Hood
Brother’s Favorite
Squad Pic
Devious Intentions
Green Guardians
Laugh!
Caved
Shellsa
Aquaboy
Birds Of A Feather
Mask Up (鼻出し状態)
Floral

I still felt like I was in a dream when we wandered down to the park under the underpass by the beach. It may not sound like the most likely place to be poppin’, but it was poppin’. Here too I felt strong American vibes. Maybe it was the Blondie blaring from a city PA speaker. Or was it the rollerblades? The b-ballers? It was a hive of activity. Skateboarders, tennis players, slamming the ball against the most indefatigable foe, concrete columns of the underpass. Parker gave a gasp and pointed. “Do you guys see that?” and ran away. We were strolling the beach when he recovenvened with us. “RC cars!”


So yes, those first days were spent in Naha, acclimating ourselves to this strange new place, and its strange new culture.


We got our first real Okinawa schooling from a Canadian. We met Dan as we were checking out of a local supermarket. He started to chat us up, and he asked us where we thought he was from. I made the mistake of saying American. James said I should never call someone an American, (reflecting our standing in the world, at least in the eyes of the Australians), but especially not a Canadian (which Dan was.) In my defense this was early in the conversation, before the “eh”s and the accent started popping out. Dan told us all kinds of things about Okinawa – about where to buy good Shisa souveniers, about why the Okinawans love Spam (they do love Spam, this was a major surprise), about how there is strong anti-American sentiment because of all the crime committed by American soldiers in the 80s and 90s. (I read about this crime, after returning. It seems that not only was there crime, but there was also a lack of justice. Many of the perpatrators were given meager fines, discharge from the army, or got off scot free. Nothing that you could call justice for someone who ran over your four year old. All enforcement and judicial affairs related to American military personnel were and still are carried out by the American military. This has been a great source of tension for the island.) About Okinawa’s economic struggles, being the poorest prefecture in Japan, and being a more popular tourist destination than Hawaii, having some ten million tourists annually, with four million of them being Chinese (Dan’s numbers). As for why Dan was here in Okinawa now: Love, baby. Dan met an Okinawan woman and got married. They spent some time in Canada and then came back to Okinawa. He said he liked talking to foreigners – he struggled to make friends in Okinawa because he doesn’t speak Japanese (which may be surprising to hear, given Okinawa’s diversity, but probably has a large part to do with his age, as in Japan, the higher up you are in age, the less likely you are to speak English).

Bark If You’re My DogSomething You Will Not See On Mainland Japan (American Influence?)
Another Okinawan Sight (Offering Of Fresh Fruit)
Veggies As Well (Health Food For The Gods)
Okinawan Glass Art
えま (Ema) For The Baby God
The Baby Bodhisattva (Buddha?)
An Offering Of Bibs
Maccas Delivery, We’ve Got It
Free PCR Testing Site (Closed At That Time)
Corals Under The Underpass (Growing Over Wavebreakers)
Man Poses With Spam Sandwich (おにぽー、Onipo)

Touching on the history of Spam in Okinawa, will lead us to covering everything I learned about Okinawa’s recent tumultuous history, which was this – the Ryukyu kingdom was subjugated by the Japanese in 1609, and Okinawa prefecture officially founded in 1879. The people of Okinawa were forced to fight along the Japanese in World War 2, to defend the island against the Americans, who were making it the last stop before the mainland, and everybody died tragic, horrific, senseless deaths (at this point in the war it was entirely senseless, for everyone except the emperor and his people, who just wanted to maintain as much control over Japan as they could after the war was over). The Okinawan people were forced to support and fight for Japan, and suffered greatly. I don’t know if I need to recount all of the horrible, gruesome details that I learned from visiting the various war museums, but I did feel that I learned something particularly important, which is that war memorials are necessary, and everyone should go to them. I have thought before, when visiting the Hiroshima and Nagasaki atomic bomb museums, why we need these, why should we keep dwelling on such horror, why keep these gruesome images and facts alive and in our consciousness. And I think I felt the answer this time around, which is that, yes, we know war is horrible, conceptually, many of us – but you need to know, exactly, to see as best as you can, without actually experiencing for yourself, how horrible it really is – the black, charred flesh of crying babies, the journals of the high school girls holding down the arms and legs of soldiers as they’re amputated off, the journals recounting the moment when they were hit by mortar fire, seeing their friends blown to bits, seeing the videos of endless dead bodies and ruined buildings, ruin everywhere, everything black and grey and destroyed, all smoldering wasteland. The photo of the POWs, over a hundred men in a barbed-wire pit of mud, some of them standing, some of them dead, none of them smiling for the camera.


Actual horror. Hell on earth. By the last museum we made a stop at, I didn’t even want to go in. My suffrometer had been maxed out. I couldn’t take anymore.


Why keep the horror alive?


So that we don’t forget.


Because someday, the events of WW2 will no longer remain in any living person’s consciousness. There will be no one left to tell their horror stories. And that is why we need these museums. They’re also necessary, not only so that we remember, but so that we can understand. I think many of us feel intrinsically that war is horrible, and those of us with more active imaginations can perhaps to some degree simulate what it may have been like, or kid ourselves that we can – but I’m sure that it can still never get anywhere near the thing itself. Our imaginations on their own just aren’t powerful enough – but when aided with photos, videos, testimonials, journals.. with some help, we can begin to understand.

What repeatedly struck me was the senselessness of it all. High school girls being blown apart so that the Emperor of Japan can potentially stay in power after the inevitable defeat of his nation. What kind of leader, what kind of ruling party would ever trade power for the lives of their innocents? One who believes they are God, perhaps, and so have a right to decide how lives are lived, and how they are spent. One who is a madman. One who is both.


Yanbaru

Now, let’s take a look at this photo.


This photo won the mystery award from Ryoka. When I showed this in class, all the students would, in unison, squint and lean forward, intensely focused on the screen. I took the photo already knowing what it was, so of course I know what this is a photo of. But I’ve been surprised that most people who look at it can’t tell. What do you think?
If you can read Japanese, there’s a clue for you down at the bottom right. If you can’t read Japanese, or can’t read this yet.. Stevie’s here for you.


It says, “危険!手をふれないでください。マングース防除事業。”

Danger – don’t touch this – death to mongeese.

It’s a dead mongoose in a mongoose trap.


Now let me tell you a little bit about what was one of the most interesting parts of the trip for me.


The animals of Yanbaru are so threatened with extinction for, I think, two primary reasons: land development, and death by mongoose.
In 1910, 17 mongeese, known to science as the Herpestes auropunctatus, the Small Indian Mongoose, were released in Naha, southern Okinawa, to wage war on the Habu, Protobothrops flavoviridis, (a particularly fun one to say), a venomous Okinawan snake. I regret not taking a picture of any of the numerous warning signs placed in the habu hotspots (or the people hotspots, as they were ideal places to share the good word, that these snakes will mess you up), but I do have pictures of habu sake. The students were very interested in this. According to Wikipedia, the habu are often stuffed into the jar alive, and drown, or are stunned and gutted alive. Gruesome stuff.

Habu Sake ($300)
夫婦 – Husband And Wife
Habu Whiskey

Unfortunately for everyone and everything on the island of Okinawa, the habu are nocturnal, and the mongoose, diurnal, and so the two rarely ever meet, and so the people of Okinawa simply added one more problem animal to their list of problem animals. To me this just shows how little we understood about animal behavior and ecology, just over a hundred years ago. Although there may have been people who knew better and weren’t consulted, or someone just really got the idea into their head, that our snake problem could be easily solved if we just brought a pack of mongeese to the island. I do wonder how this ended up happening, but apparently the idea was a common one, because according to a pamphlet I received from the Kuina Conservation Center (we’ll get to this), the Small Indian Mongoose was “introduced into about 70 islands in tropical areas, including the Hawaiian, Fiji and West Indies Islands, during the late 1800s, in order to control rat and poisonous snake populations.” The rats were also brought by the humans, and were also extremely detrimental to island flora and fauna, like on all other islands they’ve been introduced to. Instead of hunting the habu, like intended, the mongeese hunt everything else, and because the top predator on the island was the habu, and no carnivorous mammal like a mongoose, the animals adapted only to defend themselves against the habu, and perhaps birds of prey, and had and have no adaptations against mongeese, and this is the same sad story on so many islands around the world. Feral cats and dogs are an issue as well, on Okinawa, to a lesser extent, but still enough that the government had to initiate policies limiting the freedom of cats and dogs in the Yanbaru villages, and institute a tracking program, requiring all pets to be chipped. The mongeese have thrived since their introduction, and have steadily pushed northwards, until they made it up into the Yanbaru region, where the rarest and most sensitive of Okinawan species live. It wasn’t until recently that people caught on to what’s been going on, that mongeese are eating all their special animals, and this is now an ongoing struggle, between the people of Okinawa, to save their endemic wild things before it’s too late, and the mongeese. When reading about the Kuina, in the same pamphlet, I’d read that it had first been described in 1981, which I take to mean that it was given its scientific name, as the Gallirallus okinawae, and I couldn’t believe it. I thought that must have been a typo, but no, it’s true. So this animal that is now the flagstone species, the centerpiece in the campaign to protect the wildlife of Okinawa, had not even been officially documented, known to the larger ecological community, until a little over forty years ago, which to me seems like just yesterday, as whenever I read about particularly interesting species like the Kuina, they’ve all been documented much longer ago, in the 1700s, by Carl Linnaeus, or some French guy (my history is weak here), and maybe the 1800s, but not EVER in the late 1900s. But so it is, that the wildlife of Okinawa has flown under the radar for so long, and once it got some attention, it must have been found that these animals are in serious trouble, and would be gone soon, some of them gone already (potentially the Okinawa Spiny Rat), without some intervention. The initiative started only in 2000, after 15 years of basic research, when the prefectural government started capturing mongeese, and they’ve since passed legislation, constructed three fences, many kilometers long, and have even started up a real life Okinawan Avengers, the Mongoose Busters. So what you see in the picture is a mongoose caught in what is listed in the pamphlet as a “kill trap”, deployed by the Okinawan Avengers. We found it down along the mangroves, where there were two traps, the first one being empty. When I spotted the second, I saw flies, then a tail, and knew we’d gotten lucky. (The mongoose, not so much.) We were witnessing history, really, a glimpse into the ongoing war between a slinky, furry destroyer, the repercussions of the misguided intentions of over a hundred years ago, and the people of an island, in a desperate attempt to protect their dorky, charismatic, flightless bird (and everything else threatened by the mongoose, like the Okinawa Spiny Rat, the Ryukyu Long Haired Rat, which is actually more a possum, the Ryukyu Black-breasted Turtle, the geckos, newts, frogs). The misguided acts of the past. Ignorant humans attempting to rectify an order that is beyond their understanding.

The Glorious Kuina
A Majestic Bird
A Glorious Bird
He Blinks!


These photos are all from the Kuina Conservation Center. Although I desperately desired it we were not able to see a Kuina in the wild. Thank you to the center for having Kuina on display to satisfy the burning curiosity of animal people such as myself. This bird, I first heard of through the great omnipotent internet. I found, from some very brief perusing of the great omnipotent internet, that there was a forest on the northern end of the Okinawa mainland, and that there were wild things there. On searching Google Maps, I found the Kuina Conservation Center and knew right away that was a place I needed to go. I had to fight for it – after four days of letting James have his fill of parks and museums and McDonalds, when I said that we were going to go see the bird today, his response was, “No we’re not.” His reasoning being that we had already explored Yanbaru yesterday, and I got one day, and one day was enough. I had to put my talons down for this. I said, “James, we are going to go see that bird.” And we did go see that bird, and made friends with a nice man, knowledgable on all things Kuina, and friends with just about everyone in Japan, Kobayashisan, who spoke to us the entire time in good English, answering all of our questions, and educating us on the history of the project, to save the Kuina, and the Kuina behavior, diet, mating, about the Mongoose Busters, and about the lessons he was designing for classrooms around Japan. I felt that the Kuina is in good hands if there are people like him looking after them.

The Only Bird To Wear Underpants (Fashionably Dressed)
Communicating With Party (Kek)
The Small Indian Mongoose
Okinawa Avengers
The Kill Trap Is What We Saw
Trapping Success
Kuina (Okinawa Rails) Recovering Their Range As A Result
The Line Of Defense (Buffer Zone) Using Fences, Dam, And Natural Barriers


Driving up to the center, we saw many signs that warned of Kuina, and at the center itself, a sign that listed how many Kuina had been hit by cars last year, and this year. That is unfortunately another killer of these birds, as well as construction – death via car, and via falling down into places they can’t get out of, like trenches and ditches.


The Kuina is a dorky bird. Something about a bird without the wings is just funny. It is very much a bouncing, bobbing blob. It’s face is entirely expressionless, a face that has you wondering, just what, if anything, could be going on in that round nub of a head. The secrets of the universe. Certainly something is going on in that little nub noggin.


I guess you know I’m a nature lover when I say that the highlight of my trip was seeing a bird.

Did someone say birds?


Birds And Non-Birds

How Can We Talk About Birds And Not Talk About Pigeons
やまがら – Varied TitExtremely difficult to photograph, sneak level high
コゲラ – Japanese Woodpecker – Not difficult to photograph, sneak level low
赤ひげ – The Ryukyu Red Robin – This bird modeled for me. Actually.
イソヒヨドリ – Female Blue Rock Thrush – Chillin’ On A Traditional Okinawan Roof
ちゅうひ – An Eastern Sea Harrier (my guess) – A Local King Of The Sky
クロサギ- An Eastern Reef Heron – There Were Several Out On These Rocky Shores
イソヒヨドリ – Male Blue Rock Thrush – This One’s Actually Blue (Males are blue with red stomachs)
イソヒヨドリ – Female Blue Rock Thrush – This One’s Not Blue (Females are grey)
めじろ – Japnese White-Eye – Note The White Eye (Love This Bird)
むじせっか – Dusky Warbler – Not A Great Photo But I Worked Hard For It And You Will Enjoy It. S-Tier Sneak Level
Thank You For Giving Me This Photo Bird

But I have not shown you the best one. And this bird deserves a story unto itself. First I will show you the photo.

I am sure that almost all of you do not know what you’re looking at. You do not know that this bird is a critically endangered bird and there are most likely less than several hundred left in the wild, perhaps less than a hundred adults. I did not know this, either, when I took the photo of this bird. The story is this (because I have to give you the story) (it’s the whole reason I made this blog): At the end of a three and a half hour hike to a waterfall and back, that could have been done in one, but you know, birds; at the end of this hike there was a trail going off down into a small, clear-watered stream, and we made the call to extend our hike “just a bit longer” (dangerous words) and venture down to it, thinking that we may get very lucky, and find some interesting critters. James had actually already spotted an interesting critter, a large, dinosaur-like newtbeast lumbering across a sandy spit in the stream, from the hiking trail – and that greatly peaked our curiosity. We ventured down to the waters, and immediately started making discoveries, which were, this beautiful butterfly, and these wiggly wet newts. When we had gone down into the streambed, I had noticed a bird fly out from above us, into the woods across the stream. I was hoping to see birds here, (I was hoping to see birds everywhere), particularly a kingfisher, and so was on lookout for them. We had our fun with the newts, a lot of fun with the newts, trying to feed them a sizeable many-legged thing, millipede or centipede, somethingpede, and finding out that it could crawl underwater just as well as it could on land. As we mozied back down the stream, I was constantly scanning the trees, hoping for any sign of birdlife, when I noticed a hole in the tree above where we entered the stream, and I formed a quick theory, that the bird that flew across the stream when we entered lives in this hole, and we probably spooked it off, and it probably wants to come back. And so, I having perhaps the most essential skill necessary for success in wildlife photography, decided to activate that essential skill, by standing still, and waiting. If I am close to getting a photo, or there is an opportunity at hand, I am extremely reluctant to let it go. I will hold out as long as possible. And in this case I had also got into that state. An extreme unwillingness to move. Parker did not last long – within minutes he was heading back to the car. James surprisingly lasted much longer – he is a man of nature but he also has limits on his patience, and when I broke my trance for a second to confirm if it was really alright that we were still standing here for so long, having now been rooted in place for at least fifteen minutes, (that time goes quick), and asked what he was doing, seeing that he was preoccupied with something on his phone, he told me that he was trying to get free Line Points from a bottle he had gotten from a vending machine earlier, and so I knew that we could press forward, both having a mission. Even then, I didn’t want to keep Parker waiting for too long, as I had already made them both wait quite a lot, extending that hike two hours past what would have been the norm if you did not stop to look for birds every ten feet, and so I was feeling so strongly that it was time to move on, but didn’t want to go without the photo, and I was locked in struggle, between acknowledging that I couldn’t stand here forever, and also wanting to stand there forever, and I had just started to move my feet, to leave, when the bird returned. It came right back across from the other side of the stream, and right back to that hole. And I couldn’t believe it, and I’m sure I audibly gasped, and most likely aggresively whispered, “It’s back!!” and whipped up the camera, and started shooting. And I really couldn’t get anything great, nothing pin-sharp, as they say, but it was enough to make out what it was, and that was all I needed, and we left there with a victory. And usually, if you wait long enough, it does seem that you will leave with a victory. I guess that the successful nature photographer really doesn’t leave without one. And so every time you leave, you leave with a victory. I did get lucky then, I felt it, but I didn’t realize how lucky I had been, until several nights after returning, when I started the long, long process of going through the three thousand photos I had taken, and culling them down, to the useable, to the edit-worthy. And that night, I had called it a night, and was sitting on the bed, flipping through some of the pamphlets I had taken from the Yanbaru Conservation Center, looking again at the cast of critters all at risk in the Yanbaru region, and my eyes landed on a bird, the Okinawa Woodpecker, and I thought, “I’ve seen this bird.” I had a strong feeling that I’d seen it. I knew that bird. And I thought, I think that’s the bird we saw at the stream. And I noted a big red CR posted under the picture on the pamphlet, CR meaning critically endangered. So, of course, I thought, well the chances are certainly against me, and I probably did not see that bird. Maybe a close relative. But those eyes looked so familiar. And that night, I went to sleep, wondering if I had really photographed the critically endangered Okinawan Woodpecker or not. Of course I could have confirmed it it right then, but a little anticipation can make things just that much sweeter, and again I thought I was probably wrong. The first thing I did the next morning was pop open the laptop, pull up the photos, and there it was, that I had seen the exact same bird, no question about it. And then I did the research, and learned just how endangered this bird really was, that it is on the fast track to extinction, and is very close to it already, and I had been able to not only see it, but photograph it, and I felt incredibly lucky. According to the IUCN’s Red List site, the number of locations where you can find this woodpecker is 1 (Yanbaru), the number of mature individuals is 50-249, and the continuing population trend is declining. The hole was a telling sign, as to why this bird is going extinct – it is meeting the same demise as so many woodpeckers around the world, that require old growth forests, with the gnarled and holey old trees, to make their nests, and the old growths of Yanbaru have mostly been felled, and so the woodpeckers have nowhere to make their homes. The Okinawans have done the right thing by designating Yanbaru a national park. I hope that they can continue to take the steps necessary to save this bird along with all of their other special critters, because it really is a beautiful bird. My guess is that the one I saw was either a juvenile or a female, as it isn’t as brightly colored as the one shown in the pamphlet photo.

Another Shot – ノグチゲラ, Okinawan Woodpecker
From Pamphlet
The First Page Of Pamphlet Showing Endemic Yanbaruans
ルリタテハ, A Blue Admiral – The Beautiful Butterfly
Anderson’s Crocodile Newt – Listen As Vulnerable On The Above Pamphlet
Fish Mode Activated – Flattening Limbs And Using Tail To Swim

These are the animals of Yanbaru, but there were discoveries all across the island. Particularly, there was one insect that brought me much amazement, and it was this one.

The Mystery Bug

I have never seen a bug like this. I have seen a lot of bugs, but when it comes to bugs, there is always something that has not been seen, even for the bug expert extraordinaires. It is a great beauty of the bug world. This one I found essentially glued to a park sign. I say glued because as I hovered around, breathing all over it, running back to the car, grabbing my expensive and amazing SuperInsectShooter2000 macro lens, then coming back and shoving said lens right up in its face, this bug did not move a tarsus. The appendages, (legs?) that appear to have morphed into horns, were what were really throwing me for a loop. I spent some good time thinking about it. Guesses, anyone?

Top Down (One More Shot For Suspense)

Wow I can’t believe you knew that it was a Pterophoridaen (plume moth)!! Specifically a Stenodacma pyrrhodes!! You’re doing better than me. Actually I was very surprised (well, I was pretty surprised) that it was a moth. A lot of twists in this world of bugs.

Another member of Pterophoridae (credit: Wikipedia)
And Another One
This Is Not A Plume Moth
Nice To See This In January
Very Smol
There Be Geckos
A Common Sight In Okinawa, A Spiny Orb Weaver
Rare Sighting Of A Wild Carted-Smallbeast
Extremely Rare Sighting Of A Wild Furry Parktrawler
Hide Action Attemped: Success
Small Okinawan Tiger In Repose

Humans


James is a very peculiar person. To give an example: After our first full day of adventure on Okinawa, a beautiful day, a day full of new sights, tastes, culturing, adventures.. at the end of this day, I looked over at James, lying facedown on the hotel bed next to mine, and said, “What did you think was interesting about today?” And I thought this was a good question, as we really had seen so much, and I was curious to know what about it had made the greatest impression on him. And James responds, after taking half a second to think it over, “The weather.” (said as an Australian, so, “Tha’ wetha’.”) I said, “Give me more.” This time, a second passes. “Getting the rental car.” Now, I know that I am just as much a peculiar person – but in his peculiarity, James is certainly very different from me, because if you had asked me that question, the two things I would have absolutely not put on my list of interesting events of the day, would have been the rental car, and the weather. What is even interesting about a sunny day? How can you actually even list that as an interesting thing? You may think that James was being sarcastic. He very often is. And a normal person answering in that way probably would be. But sarcastic he was not. I knew James well enough by then to know that his answer was a completely genuine one, and that after our first action packed day on this exotic new island, the two most interesting things for James that day really were the weather and the rental car. I needed more; I pressed further. “What else?” But that was it. “That’s it.” (His reply). And then, as an afterthought, to himself, as he’s already answered the question, done his duty to the outside world, and is now once again devoting full attention to obliterating his Legends Of Runeterra AI nemesis, he adds, “The stone road was nice.” And that was an acceptable answer. The stone road was nice.

The Stone Road


This entire conversation (if you can call it a conversation) was conducted over the sounds, over a cacophony of sword clashings, and spell castings, and customary catch phrases, and other such appropriate fantasy sounds.

A Topic Of Debate

This house, placed along the stone road, represented an aesthetic divide between James, and Parker and myself. Parker and I were on team yes, James on team no, and strongly so. What do you think? Attractive? Horrific?


When it comes to friendship, James can be a demanding individual. I was banned from driving the car because I drive too aggressively. I couldn’t play music because my music is displeasing. I couldn’t lay on his bed because I’m filthy. I couldn’t have a Calorie Mate (a quintessential Australian food) (“Want a calorie, mate?” James once said – not to me of course) because he has to order them off Amazon (for the best deal). Parker has a catchphrase, and it’s “Sheboigan” (not sure if correctly spelled). James has a catchphrase, and it’s “No”. I tried to convince James to start saying “Badabing badaboom” (I thought that would be fun for an Australian). He wasn’t into it. A tangent, but Australians really have an infectious way of speaking, perhaps in part because their words are so fun to say. I say their words, but actually the really fun ones, like Billabong, Diggereedoo, and Kookaburra, are all Aboriginal words. I had never thought of Billabong as being a word having origins in Australia, but after spending some time with James, I fancy that I could recognize it now. And fun fact, (I had always just though it was the fun name of a company, nothing more) a billabong is a kind of oasis located in the Australian outback. Words like wallaby and dingo are also Aboriginal. I’ve noticed that people (at least, Americans), are so tickled by the Australian accent, that when they meet a real life Australian they can’t help but to try it out, that most people when meeting James can’t resist unleashing their inner Australian, and James always takes it in stride. I’ve asked him if this ever bothered him, and he says no. I think he knows that it’s not done mockingly; we just can’t resist it. When with James I confess that something takes hold of me too, and am often seized by overwhelming urges to blurt out words and phrases in the Australian tongue, one of my favorites being “A dingo ate my baby”. Sometimes I’m able to surpress these urges, and sometimes I’m not, and whenver I’m not, James is right there with me, joining in to rant about dingos, and throwing in some “Aw yea”s, and “croikeys”, and other quintessential Australianisms. Once when asking James about Aboriginal words, he started listing some off, and on the fourth or fifth word, I was fascinated, and commented, “Wow.. I haven’t even heard some of these!” and he says, “Well, I was just making them up.” They all sounded like perfectly real words to me, I suppose because they all sounded like nonsense, and not being Aboriginal or Australian, I can’t tell the difference.


Another worthy tangent – James doing karaoke sounds like a horribly wounded animal in its death throes. There are times when you may accurately level the charge of hyperbole at me but this is not one of those times. It is something unearthly. Hearing it will touch something deep inside of you. His favorites are “Breaking The Habit” by Linkin Park, and “You Raise Me Up” by Josh Groban. And this is why James is such an enigma. He is a fun guy, while simultaneously being anti-fun. How does it work? He belongs to a very rare class of people who can pull this off. (Luka is another member of this class; but Luka is for another time.) On the drive home from the airport, I was doing some verbal painting for James, laying out for him a fantasy I was having, of me going to see him, in Okinawa, his future home, where he wants to move (for the weather), where he is now a successful Maccas magnate (Maccas, Australian for McDonalds; James sees great opportunity in opening McDonalds in Japan, “printing money”) and in me borrowing a fancy car from his fleet of fancy cars (he likes cars – flicking through Tinder for the first time, he swiped right on two profiles, both including pictures of cars), and I said, looking over at him in the backseat, “Doesn’t that sound like fun?” And he said, with a light touch of agony in his voice, “Not really.”


At another point on the trip, I turned to James and said, “Are you having a good time?” (At this moment, I was having a good time. It was ideal conditions for having a good time.) James was stoic, as usual, and so it was and is very hard to tell, if and when he’s having a good time. His response: “Better than being at home.” And that bar is very low, because James lives in the middle of the woods, surrounded by empty houses and tall trees and the bloodcurdling screams of deer (I’ve heard these), where he is this winter perpetually engaged in the existential struggle of trying to stay out of a hypothermic state at a reasonable price (the electric bill is quite high in his middle of nowhere).


I’m writing a lot about James here. Our relationship has been a great source of amusement to me, and hopefully not too much of exasperation to him. I am only scratching the surface, the surface of a very large and very fantastic iceberg, and however much I would like to, we just don’t have the time or energy for me to expound on every single peculiarity or instance of peculiar behavior on James’s part – but I can give you one more. James and I had a moment of conflict, of true conflict, laid bare, a moment of us forcing our up-to-this-point dysfunctional cogs into some kind of synchronicity, a more working order, and it was tense, Parker wide-eyed and mouth-shut, and after the climax, and tensions had relaxed, and consessions made, James made a comment, a pained one, one that suggested he had been harboring a deep and dreadful grievance for a long, long time; and James’s comment was: “Please no more jazz.”


Music was one of our greatest sources of tension. We had listened to jazz only once on that trip, as I was only in the mood for it once, that warm, relaxed morning, at the start of our drive up to Yanbaru, and because I had then been allowed to drive, as this was before the ban (I was banned for driving “too fast”) (our car liked to scold, and was quite quick to do so, and this was another great source of amusement on the trip, as Parker in particular did not handle the scolding well, and would respond to the car’s gentle robotic suggestions of “Please slow down” and “Stay in the lane” with a rising exasperation, gripping the wheel harder, and shouting various “God dammit!” and “Shut up!”s, which helped to load him with all those neurochemicals necessary for safe and proper driving, like adrenaline and cortisol), and we had a working rule that the driver got to choose the music (although I did have the ban revoked, and was allowed to drive once more, and yet Parker played the music – funny how that works). I had played jazz, stuff from the Vince Guaraldi Trio, only that once – but out of everything I did, out of all the atrocities I had committed, playing jazz in the car was one of the worst.

James is so particular about his CalorieMate that he knew, after a period of several months, spanning the full length of our history, since I had started making trips out to stay with him in his Ubuyama wilderness, during which I would often request to be fed (it feels weird to even write that, requesting to be fed in a friend’s house) and he would occasionally yield, some frozen vegetables, or a pack of instant ramen, and rarer still, a precious CalorieMate. After several months of Ubuyama visits, I had made a comment about my “consuming” (he likes that word; “All you do is consume!”) his CalorieMates, and he surprised me by stating the exact number of CalorieMates that I had swindled from him, and it was five. He had this entire time been keeping track. They’ve recently gone on sale, I noticed at the supermarket, and I have bought him four, one of each of the flavor’s he’s never tried (he only buys chocolate), to attempt to compensate for my wanton consumption. Around this time James messaged me, unprompted, about their going on sale. (I have since eaten one).

James and I had one more source of conflict, and it was McDonalds. It was not about his future ambitions as a Maccas magnate. I fully support those. Rather, it was about me not wanting to eat there, every day, if I could help it, and him wanting to eat there every day, if he could. James is undoubtedly a Maccas man. He usually would limit himself to Maccas once a week, on Sundays after he goes grocery shopping – but this vacation meant freedom, for the both of us, and for James specifically, it meant freedom to eat all Maccas, all the time. This was in direct opposition with what I had desired, which was to try as much of the local food as possible, as well as that McDonalds, even if I did want to go there, did not have anything for me, besides a pitiful ebi fillet. (Shrimp burger). I consider myself to be a compromising individual (James will laugh at this), so I humored them on the drive to the airport (I say them because Parker was always willing to climb aboard the Maccas train). I even humored them again in Okinawa, curious about whether they had any Okinawa specials, and they probably did, and it was probably just a Spamburger. But then, the second time it was proposed in Okinawa, I proclaimed that I would not eat there again, and so we debated, and settled on the plan, that we would first go to Maccas, where James and Parker would get their fix, and then we would go to a local place, where I could get mine (which was champloo). This was not ideal, but we both got what we wanted. It was a compromise of sorts, but James stayed in the car, for my meal, and it took twice as much time for us to eat, and so obviously was not better than us enjoying something we all liked together. The next time we were deciding where to go to eat, and the suggestion of Maccas was once again floated, potentially even by me, in jest (still a mistake), and I said I will absolutely not go to McDonalds, but if you must, we can separate again, to which James replied, “No more split meals. It makes me feel like I’m with my divorced parents.” And that made me think that while James and I have a great friendship, we probably would have a tough marriage, with such fundamental differences in culinary desires, opinions on the interest of rental cars, and loves of jazz music.

Spending time with other people has a usefulness in that it can help you to round out edges of your personality, fill in gaps in your knowledge, or help you to realize some of your personal quirks or habits that are or are not so useful. I say this because I learned a lot from James and Parker during these ten days, and I think (I hope) they learned from me too. At least I know that Parker made two lifestyle changes as a result of this trip. I have thought for awhile, and so has Parker, that he is too easily and too often flustered, and I thought that this was in some part related to his caffeine habit, which can be summed up as, he is a fiend for the feine. Parker’s natural state of existence had been, prior to this trip, a caffinated one. I had been trying to convince him to give up the caffiene, or at least cut it back, for awhile now, and I think he had tried it once or twice, but on this trip, we really went for it, because I was there to help. It’s harder to police yourself than to be policed by others. So we agreed that Parker would have no caffiene on this trip, and then many, many times a day, (basically at every vending machine, which, because we’re in Japan, was anytime we ever stopped or went out for a walk), I would listen to and weigh the strength of Parker’s relentless stream of requests for a caffinated beverage. Parker came up with many various reasonings as to why he should get his caffeine, including, “What am I supposed to drink?” (implying that he had to drink something and if he couldn’t get any other suitable option it would have to be something caffienated, because of course, he had to have something to drink, and of course it couldn’t just be water) (and this is how he became somewhat of a mugicha man, mugicha being wheat/barley tea, which I really love) and “Well if it does have caffiene, it can’t have much.” (this was for the apple tea, which we weren’t sure if had caffiene or not, because it wasn’t written on the bottle – and after a few days of steady drinking, Parker says, “It does.” He looked it up, after the few days of steady drinking) and “It’s for my can collection!” (which was him trying to get me to let him have a Dr. Pepper, which we’ve never seen in Kyushu, and to which I responded, “You have a can collection?” And he does. We settled on him having a few sips (they were gulps) and pouring the rest of the can out.) And during this trip, as we progressed, I swear that Parker had started to noticeably relax, except when he was in the car and being scolded. Parker also asked me, at one point, when I told him he shouldn’t pick his nails, what he was supposed to do when he sat, and had nothing else to do, and I told him, just don’t do anything. Because he had the habit, like so many people, myself included, the long habit of picking or chewing his nails down, and there was nothing left but destroyed stumps, and I told him about how if you just make the conscious effort to stop, that is half the battle, as it’s something that you picked up a long time ago and are most likely only doing it now as an unconscious holdover, an autopilot function, (although for him having a lot of tension it could still have been a response to relieve that tension), and it is a habit you can break, and he has recently sent me pictures of his new nails, and told me that the other day he scratched something with them, which was an experience he hadn’t felt in a very, very long time. I think that’s a good example of why it’s helpful to have other people around, in correcting bad physical and mental habits, because we fall into these patterns, and carry them out without even thinking about them, and because they’re so normal to us, we don’t realize that they’re not normal at all, or we don’t have the ability to pull ourselves out of them by ourselves, but could with a little help from another, who can see it objectively. Having people with different perspectives around you also helps you to cover some of your personal deficiencies. After spending time with James, and another friend of mine, Ikkei, who are both engineers, (machine people), I see that they view things, especially the machines, in a very different light than I do. Physical, mechanical things just come to them in a different way than they do to me. I saw the true similarity in them when, seperately, in their presence I complained about the issues I had been having with my laptop, and without any asking on my part, or even desire to have them fix it, they were both sitting down with it, having a look, and tackling the problem. I actually asked James, and this is a very rare thing for me to say, when he was sitting there deep into my computer’s bios, or whatever he was doing, “Are you having fun?” Because it seemed like he was. And he said yes. He was. And I realized then, that what is agony for me, which is solving computer related problems (I could see it only as a complete waste of time) is for them an enjoyable experience, like solving a puzzle. I think in part because they enjoy the problem solving component, but also because they just get it. They just get mechanics. And being friends with them has clearly shown me that I don’t get mechanics like they do, but I do see why they like it. I say this because on the Okinawa trip, I had made another comment, about how my boots had been giving me blisters, and I wasn’t sure why, whether it was too much walking, or they weren’t made for that much walking, or they just weren’t a comfortable pair of shoes, and James said, “Just wear two pairs of socks.” And since then I’ve only ever worn two pairs of socks with those boots, and have never had a problem since. I think it was very obvious to James, that it’s a friction problem, and there is too much empty space in the shoe, and wearing two pairs of socks will fill up the space, eliminate the friction, and there will be no more blisters, and I understand that too; but it was much clearer for him.

This makes me think of my newest friend, Luka (we’ve got to him), a big burly Croatian-Canadian bundle of joy and love, who also has the engineering mind, and who, on a drive to James’s for a hybrid Christmas/Thanksgiving party, when I asked about crumple zones, as we were talking about cars, and crumple zones, I think specifically because he had made the comment that old cars were much more dangerous because they didn’t have them, who replied to my honest question of whether a car needed crumple zones with, “Of course you need crumple zones, dumbass!” Of course you do! A car without crumple zones! What a joke! James and Ikkei both probably would not have to ask the question of whether you need crumple zones or not. They would immediately see the value. The mechanical mind.


Worms

There is one more story I can leave you with. Okinawa was a gift that just kept on giving. One night, about a month after, Parker gives me a call. I answer the phone, and can tell immediately that he is exasperated, which is common, but I could tell immediately that in this case he was in a state of flustration of the highest order. I said, “Hey buddy,” and Parker says, in between hurried, panicked breaths, “Oh my god Steven. I think I pooped out a worm.” And Parker proceeds to send me a picture of a long, skinny, pink thing in his toilet. It does look like a worm. He then begins to tell me about how he had recently done the deed, gone off to a friend’s house, and had come back to find this worm in his toilet, that it must have been in his poop, and swam back up. He had come up with the working theory, with some help from another friend, Matt, that this worm was an Ascarid, and he may have gotten it in Okinawa, and he was now filled with them. It was alarming stuff, but still, I played the role of the soother, the de-hype man, telling him, ok, just relax, we don’t really know if you are filled with worms yet, and even if you do have worms, people get them all the time (not that I knew anyone who did), and dogs get them all the time, and I’m sure it’s not a big deal, and everything will be fine. He had sent me a link, to what he thought it was, an Ascarid worm, a type of roundworm, and the more I read, the more I was convinced of the probability that this was the correct worm, and that Parker did have worms. They were common in certain areas, specifically tropical and sub-tropical regions, as well as regions where sanitation was low. Okinawa was a tropical/sub-tropical island, and as far as sanitation level, who was I to say it was sanitary? The trash, the feral animals, the urinating homeless man, all flashed through my mind. It was said that one common mode of transmission was through eating unwashed fruits and vegetables. I thought, “But we didn’t eat any of those did w-“. And then I remembered the starfruit. I had wanted to stop at what’s called a michi no eki, which are fantastic places that carry all of the local flavors and trinkets, produce and sweets and mascots, and while there we had found ourselves the saataandagi, the Okinawa doughnuts that I had been hunting for, and after making the purchase, I had continued to meander, all the way around the perimeter of the store, with Parker anxiously hovering over me, concerned about making James wait for too long, but I was enjoying all of the uniqueness of Okinawa on display, when my eyes landed on some peculiar, star-shaped green and yellow fruits, and you know that I am sucker for exotic fruits, and so I went back to the register and bought them. And I was thinking now, how fateful it was, that I had ended up buying those fruits, the vehicle for our first worm infestation, and had taken them back to the car, and had opened up the back, so excited, offering one to James, who says, no kidding, “Are they washed?” His foresight astounding. I said no, but they had probably, maybe washed them before they gave them to us. “Aren’t they supposed to do that?” To myself, I thought, washed? Ha! My body can handle anything that nature provides. I really thought something like that. Seriously, I can handle a little unwashed fruit. But when I thought that, I was not including the malicious eggs of human-targeting parasitic Ascarids into my definition of nature. I was thinking about some dirt and maybe a dead bug. Me, the biologist. It’s pitiful I know. And so Parker and I happily scarfed those crunchy, juicy starfruits down. And now, flash forward a month, and I read, transmitted through unwashed fruits and vegetables, and I thought, my god, the starfruits! It was just like when Bill Murray eats the egg that he took back from the monkey in Osmosis Jones. The moment of compromise. So we had a vehicle. And I thought, alright, but how long does it take for the worms to mature. Does the time frame match? And it did, to the T. I read, what I did not want to read, on several sites, that it took about four weeks for the worms to mature – and it was just about four weeks since. The prognosis was not good, and I said to Parker, “The prognosis is not good.” I advised that he should go to a doctor the next day, tried to tell him again not to worry, that a lot of people do have this, over a billion people in the world have been infected, and that they’re not dangerous, usually, unless there are so many that they literally block your intestinal tract (I decided to leave that out), that everything would be fine, and try not to think about the small slithering creatures that are now sapping your vitality and infesting your bowels. But I too was now shaken, thinking the same thoughts that Parker had been thinking, but with less certainty – were these worms in me too, now? Just a few hours before I had noticed some intestinal discomfort, and boy it felt like it was really ramping up now. Like the worms knew that they’d been found out, and they had limited time to do their worm work. I gave James a call, and said, “Well, Parker’s got worms.” And I asked James if he had had a starfruit at all, and he said, yes, just one, and he washed it first. And I thought then how foolish I had been, how filthy I really was, going to bed filthy, because I prefered to take my showers in the morning, and being infected with worms, because I ate risky fruits, and how exonerated he was now, standing righteous, a night showerer, a fruit-washer. I said he should check his poo just in case, and then went to bed thinking that night about if, and how many, worms were inside my body. As much as I tried to suppress them, my powers of imagination led me to imagine myself, as I lay there in bed, completely bloated with worms, pushing against the confines of my intestines, as I was experiencing now what I believed to be great intestinal discomfort, and upon waking up tomorrow, going to the squatty potty at the school, and unloading them all, the great big mass, into the trench. I’m sorry to spell out such a graphic image for you but this was really what was going through my mind, and I think it’s only fair that I share it with you. My mind also flashed with images from the worst chapter in my entomology textbook – the chapter on parasites. I thought about the screw worms, the botflies, and the Leishmaniasis, and hook worms, the brain infesters, the wigglers, the burrowers, the devourers, and how one of those parasites that I had read about in my textbook was now giving me the honor of a private lesson, carrying out its life cycle in the most unfortunate host. (Me.) My primary consolation was that I imagined Parker going through similar things. We would be together in this unwanted adventure. And I did also think that it gave us a kind of badge of honor, an explorer’s badge, proof that we had been to exotic and foreign lands (I know this is a very romanticized way of looking at it), and I thought about how I could use it when playing Never Have I Ever, except that game is for things you haven’t done, and I have now had worms, and so actually I had just gotten worse at the game. I also thought about how we had taken a small risk in going to Okinawa, because it was during COVID times, and so all traveling is somewhat of a risk, even if case counts are low, but how while we were there, omicron began its rampant rise in Japan and particularly in Okinawa, and how we started to get messages, from loved ones, and coworkers, concerned for our safety, now being in the middle of the hottest place for COVID in Japan, with Okinawa receiving national attention, and everyone thinking, “Oh, my ALT is there!” and that we would now return from COVIDLAND to spread it all throughout our hometowns. And that was bad enough, dealing with the stress (mainly on Parker’s end) of being in a COVID hotspot, and then having to do the testing, upon returning home, and the quarantining, and that alone may have had us questioning whether it was worth the trouble or not, (I think for Parker, it may not have been, as we were reflecting on what we had learned from the trip, on the car ride back from the airport, and Parker says, “I learned a lot too. I learned that I like Taketa.” This had been his first real trip, which I was very surprised to hear, because I imagined that everyone who comes to Japan is hot for travel, but Parker has kept this entire time close to his Japanese home, which is Taketa, and his comment made me feel that the only thing he really learned from his big adventure out into the world, barring that initial move to Japan, was that he shouldn’t leave home at all.) And now, not only did we end our trip with testing, the quarantining, the concern, that we had been hoping to avoid, but now we really had something to cap it off with, the greatest omiyage yet, our very first worm infection. These were the things I thought about that night, as well as, well isn’t life interesting.

Now, the worm experts reading this, must have quickly settled on their own theory. Having read the clues: worm in the toilet, no excrement, long, skinny, pink; they are now proclaiming, “Why, it’s nothing more than a tubifex worm!” And they are entirely right. It was a tubifex worm.

I am embarrassed to say that I made the critical mistake of not ever confirming what an Ascarid worm actually looked like. But we would not have thought for a moment that we had them, had we simply asked the great omnipotent internet to show us what it was. We would have saved ourselves much consternation and exertion of imagination, had we only done this simple step. But I was duped; convinced, simply from reading, that we had found our worm. I blame Parker for this, having not done this step himself, and passing on his fear and his certainty to me, but when panicked, it is much easier to jump to conclusions, to make lapses of judgment. Because, later that same night, Parker went to a party, and told me that, while he had tried his best not to talk about the worm, that he wanted everyone to have a good time, and not dampen the mood with the lively talk of parasites, he was found out, not having a very good poker face, and his worm problem brought to light, to which his story was, he told me, scoffed at. “They scoffed at me.” (The Japanese). And they scoffed because they knew better. They knew better than us, that while Okinawa is exotic, and is sub-tropical, “It’s still Japan”, and so it would be almost impossible for it to have the lack of sanitation procedures necessary to harbor Ascarids, that it was an insult to the country to suggest it, and that Parker’s worm was probably a worm that someone had heard of that was a common worm that traveled through the sewers and occasionally popped up in people’s toilets. And this was the worm. The tubifex worm. Which to me sounded much more sinister, and is why as soon as I heard the good news, I sent James the message, “Don’t worry James. Only a tubifex worm.” Parker’s call prompted me, finally, to actually search images of the worms themselves, on which I found that the tubifex worm was exactly identical to Parker’s toilet worm, and the Ascarid was not in any way, and seeing the images of the Ascarid actually brought me back to the lab component of a zoology course, where we got our hands dirty with various members of the many-branched tree of life, and this worm was one of them, and I remember it so clearly, because my professor had said that when we cut into it, it would pop, as it exerted a strong outward pressure to match the pressure imposed on it when inside of the host’s body; and it did pop. So, like the pressure inside of an Ascarid when cut open by the sharp steel blade of an exactoknife in the hands of a curious young biologist, upon hearing that at the end of our worm story, none of us were bloated with worms, none of us needed to go to the hospital, and none of us needed to wash our fruits in Japan; we were relieved.

In the aftermath of this I thought about two things, which were 1. That my intestinal pain that fateful night may have been entirely fear or anxiety induced, which is interesting to see the effect that your mind can have on the body, as if my fear of having something in me making me feel bad itself actually made me feel bad, a self-fulfilling prophacy (although thankfully I can’t self-fulfill worms into my body), and 2. That we were lucky enough to not have been parasitized, but now had some small idea of what it actually would be like, which is horrible, and yet for many people around the world it really is a reality; it is happening to them right now, many of them children, and the psychological trauma of knowing that you are actively being parasitized aside, there are also obviously significant negative physiological effects. We were lucky enough not to have been infected, and I felt that this would be a good time to pay our luck forward, and give thanks, and help someone else to feel the relief that I felt when finding out that I was worm free. I made a small donation to Parasites Without Borders, although I really wanted to donate to the Schistomiasis Control Initiative, because they are directly supplying infected people with medicine. The Parasites Without Borders seems to be more focused on education. If you find yourself in a generous mood, and did want to donate anything as well, someone out in the world, many someones, do really have these worms, and would appreciate it. If you are just curious about parasites (hey, some people are) both websites have some good information regarding them. Be warned of course, there are graphic and potentially disturbing images (on the PWB site), especially if this would be your first introduction to Leishmaniasis.

https://parasiteswithoutborders.com/

https://schistosomiasiscontrolinitiative.org/

We can finish with some photos I took of skies and sunsets.


Some Photography

Sky On Fire
Between The Rocks
Double Layer (Triple Layer?)
Guiding Lines

There was also a very interesting building, the big street butthole, that became somewhat of a subject for me. (It was a decorative and magnificent exhaust port for a street running under the channel.)

And I had fun shooting buildings in general.

(Not A Building)
Okinawa Has Great Mexican Food
A Church With A Water Collection Tank (Many Homes Had One)
首里城 – Shurijyo – A Famous Castle In Naha
Naha From Shurijyo
In The Strangely Rocks
The Lion King
A Colony Of Cycads
In The Groves (The Mangroves)
乳首島 – Nipple Island (What I Told My Students It Was Called) (Not Sure If Good Joke To Make In Class) (Looks Like Nipple)

A collection of English sightings.

The final photos (I swear).

Parker Watching
Australian
Left 4 Dead: Okinawa

Ozu Tsuyoi Ne!, The Death of Man In Japan, and The Story Of The Baby’s Gu 大津強いね!, Man In Japanの死亡, そして赤ちゃんのグーの話

I have become a meme.

At least, I hope I have become a meme.

We can start there. Last week, Ozu High School won the prefectural soccer championship. Pretty easily. The game was four to zero. We all sat in the auditorium and watched it together, during the school day, as it was live streamed on YouTube. I told you that Ozu is good at soccer, and that their soccer team is like a small army. I now know that, if the students are to be trusted, which they are not, although when it comes to soccer they’re probably a reliable source of information, that the Ozu soccer team has over 170 members. 170. There are something like eight hundred kids at the school. So about one in five students at Ozu are on the soccer team. And that sounds about right. Some of these kids wake up at 4 am to make the trip to Ozu and be there on time for morning practice, which starts at 5:30, and don’t get home until 8 or 9. I have to respect their dedication, even if I think it is totally insane. I couldn’t do it. These kids work at least 10x harder than me. It is really like being in the army. I’ve never been in the army, I have no idea what’s it really like. I imagine it is to some degree what an Ozu soccer player experiences. But anyways, last week, I was in the school gym, as I often am, working out with the boys, which is a lot of fun, because they think that I am the strongest human that they’ve ever seen. At least they treat me like that. I am stronger than almost all of them, but it’s just because they’re tiny twinks. Compared to them, I am truly a muscle-bound freak. I was in the gym, and I asked them about the soccer tournament, because I knew that that last weekend all school sports had had their tournaments. This is a difference between Japan and the US, where almost all of the sports have their tournaments at the same time. Baseball, I think, may be an exception. So I knew that the soccer guys had played last weekend, and I asked, and they told me that they had a game tomorrow, during the day, and I could watch it on YouTube Live, on a channel called Green Card. I’ll put the link here so you guys can check it out. The next night, after work at Shoyo, I went home, gorged on my nightly soba, and then grabbed my laptop, sat on those steps in front of Nagata sensei’s apartment, hooked up to that sweet, sweet WiFi, and searched up Ozu’s semi-final game. That game was the semi-final, I forgot to say. This was the second time I had ever watched Ozu soccer. They’re a good team. They won that game, 4 to 1, one of the goals being an outside of the box upper-90 shot. Sexy stuff. I was impressed, and I thought, hey, I’ll leave a little comment. I don’t often comment on YouTube videos. I’ve actually maybe never commented on a YouTube video. By the time I get to any YouTube video, there are already about a thousand witty comments or memes, and there’s no need for me to add my far less witty comment to the noise. But on this video, the comment section was just a barren patch of white, and so I thought they deserved something. I just really had an urge to comment, then. So after thinking for about one and a half seconds, keeping it short and sweet, I wrote, 大津強いね!Ozu tsuyoi ne! Ozu is strong! I then closed the laptop, thought nothing of it, and returned to my apartment.

The next day, I wasn’t going to have class, but Atsuko sensei asked me if I would join her. When we walked into class together, I was deep in thought, I’m sure over something incredibly trivial, and paying little attention to anything. By the time I had reached the podium, to set some textbooks down, I realized that I had heard something, something that was meant for me to hear, when I walked in, and that was, 大津強いね!Several students had said this, when I walked in, at a volume slightly above conversational level – not shouting it at me, but loud enough for me to hear. And it took my brain a few seconds to realize, that’s what I had commented last night. Waking up from my trance, and saw seven or eight boys in their seats, looking directly at me, and I said, “大津強いね!” My comment made an impression on them. My YouTube profile is linked to my gmail, and so my YouTube username is my actual name, paired with a clear and unmistakeable picture of me, so it’s obvious that I was the commenter.

I thought that was a funny reaction, but it still didn’t sink in, the scope and reach of my comment, until later the next day. That day, Ozu was playing in the prefectural championship, and we all gathered in the gym to watch it on an enormous screen. In a normal year, we would have all gone to watch the game live, at the stadium, but this was not a normal year. Some of the teachers, the young bucks, had been designated cheerleaders, and were decked out in some electric blue Ozu swag, and I went over to them and said, “Hey, nice shirts.” They said, “Want one?” And so I walked with Dragonball Z sensei (he’s got spiky porcupine hair) to go get one, and as we were walking, he stopped and turned to me, and said, “YouTube.. Nice comment.” And now I thought – ok, spiky sensei knows about it, 1-5 knows about it.. how many people have seen this comment? So after the game, I sat down at my desk, pulled up the video, and saw that that video had 15,000 views (which blew my mind, I had no idea so many people were interested in high school soccer), and my comment had 7 likes, which is by far the most likes I’ve ever had on a YouTube comment, and my comment was still the only comment on this video. So any student, parent, teacher, whoever these 15,000 people are, whoever watched that video, would have seen their school ALT commenting, 大津強いね!And at 15,000, that could be the whole school. At least all of the soccer players would know about it. And the soccer players, especially, but the high school boys in general, really enjoy a good catchphrase. A good meme. They had already memed me with it that day when I walked into class. For my part, I’ve tried to help cement it as one. After the championship game, I pulled up the recording on YouTube, and again commented, 大津強いね! I think it stands a good chance of being adopted.

I say that the students really enjoy a good catchphrase, for this reason. The way that they first sounded off the 大津強いね! in class, in unison and at a level just loud enough to catch my ear, took me back to a time early in my ALT career, a time where my days were filled with the words, “Hey guys.” Or, if the students were really in the mood for it, “Hey guys, we have a gift for you.”

Any foreign man, woman, or child working in the Japanese English education system will be familiar with this phrase. I now know that it is nationwide. In the beginning, this “hey guys” meant nothing to me. In my first classes, I noticed that at the start of class, and sometimes throughout class, when there was individual work or group time, I would hear this, and I could tell the students wanted me to hear this, this “Hey guys.” And at first I thought, maybe they were imitating me, because I did typically refer to the class as a whole as “guys” and when I want to get the attention of the whole class, I would sometimes say, “hey guys”, although I have since switched to “hey kiddos” being more gender neutral, more fun, and less likely to induce a “hey guys” in response. At first I thought it was because of this, but I don’t say hey guys all that often, and the students were saying it in every class, and in the hallways, whenever they ran into me, and it was just too frequent for them to be imitating me, I knew it had to come from something. I just didn’t know what. They would say it, and I knew they were looking from some reaction from me, but I don’t really internet, and so their meme fell short, and eventually, when they saw that Steven sensei doesn’t get the joke, they stopped using it. But sometime soon after I met Parker, which was now many months into being in Japan, he brought this up. He said to me, one day, “Do your students ever say, ‘Hey guys?'” And I said, “All the time.” And he said, “Do you know where that’s from?” And I said, “No.” And he said, “It’s from PornHub.” (Disclaimer: Parker is not a PornHub user.) And that was the day I found out that I was teaching a small army of PornHub fans. Apparently, at the beginning of videos, there is an ad, and the ad starts off with a woman, saying, “Hey guys, we have a gift for you.” That phrase has now since become a litmus test for seeing whether your ALT watches PornHub or not, although now that the meme has spread across the country, many ALTs know about it without having seen the ad. It’s a quick and effective way to try and elicit some kind of reaction from an ALT, and a cheap and easy way to get your lads to giggle. I’m sure it’s thrilling for them, to be sitting them, ALT walking into class, and thinking, “Ok, time to hit him with the ‘hey guys’, let’s see what he does!” I should not have been surprised that all this time my high school guys had been reciting the lines of a PornHub advertisement to me, but given how widespread it was, I didn’t think it’d be something that sinister. It really felt like every damn guy in the school had said it to me at one point or another. I thought it was just a line from a popular video game, like Fortnite or something. But, I still wasn’t too surprised. When it came to crass, I learned quickly with them. I could give a few examples of what I mean by that, involving trees, and hand gestures, and words that I would be ashamed to write here, but to keep this family friendly, I’ll hold off.

You may be thinking, Steven, are you trying to keep your blog family friendly? We’re already talking about PornHub. And I’m not really trying to keep it family friendly, but PornHub is something that will probably come up in your family. Everyone in your family, if they have any access to the internet, and any slight curiosity, must know about it. It’s 2021. PornHub is here and with us. And here’s the thing about PornHub, which is really what I think about when I think about all of my high schoolers being PornHub fiends, is that PornHub ranks quite highly on the list of companies that propagate pain and suffering. PornHub actually profits off of it. Pain and suffering is worked into the PornHub business model, along with straight up illegal activity. PornHub ruins lives. People have committed suicide because of PornHub. PornHub is a horrible company. PornHub is everything that is wrong with capitalism. If you’re interested, read Nickolas Kristoff’s New York Times PornHub pieces. While you could debate about whether free and easy access to porn is a good thing or not, there is no debate to be had over PornHub being one of the worst companies on this planet. So, of course, I’m not happy that all of my students are quoting PornHub advertisements, but I do get it. PornHub being the destroyer of lives that it is, the “Hey guys” thing, it’s funny. They are funny guys. And, they are high school guys. With phones. They’re still maturing young bucks, and they can’t be expected to know (although I would expect them to care) about the evils of PornHub. I did dabble with the idea of letting them know, choosing PornHub as the focus for my next edition of the school newspaper, The Ozu Times, and I even had a great title worked out for it. “Hey Guys, We Have A Problem.” In the small font below the main title: It’s PornHub. I thought that was clever. But I don’t think it was the move. That may have been quite an awkward paper for the homeroom teachers to hand out. It wouldn’t have survived the chain of approval anyway. All of my papers have to go through a rigorous approval process, passing up that long chain of command, from my supervisor, to the head of the English department, and the several head honchos of the school, all the way up to the principal. That would have been a fun conversation to have. Still, someone’s got to educate these kids, and if we ever talk about it again, I’ll let them know what I think. “PornHub, bad company. Very bad company. Black company.” Even those dinguses can understand that.

So that’s why I’d love it if 大津強いね! could become a new catchphrase. It would be a much more wholesome one. It doesn’t have the edge, of the “hey guys”, or the nationwide recognition, or the appeal of being in English, so I don’t imagine it would last, but it’d be nice if it did, if I had inspired a quip to replace the dreaded “hey guys” with.

I now have a little collection of one offs I’d like to share with you. In lieu of any greater story.

I have taken to walking a certain route through my neighborhood. There is a park not too far from my apartment complex, called Shouwaen. It’s named after the Shouwa era (昭和), which was, I believe, three eras ago. This era is the Reiwa (令和) era, the last was Heisei (平成), and then before that, Shouwa. Do you know about this? In Japan, depending on the establishment you’re working with, you may write the date as being, for example, the day I write this particular section of this particular blog post, 10日6月2021年, or, 10日6月令和3年. When I submit paperwork, the year is typically written as the year in the era, and not the, what is it called, the A.D. year. The first year in any era is the 元年 (gannen), basically meaning ‘beginning year’, which I am proud to say I was here for Reiwa’s. That was a fun year, because I got to write 元年 on everything. If I leave on the last year of Reiwa, then it would be a convenient way to convey to both the Japanese and anyone who is familiar with the Japanese eras, how long I had lived in Japan for, if they ever ask me, as I could just respond, “令和”. The park is called 昭和園, Shouwaen, and it’s a nice park. It sits up on a hill, and from the top of the hill, when there are breaks in the trees, you can look out over your dominion, that is Ozu valley, and see all the way to the farthest ranges to the south, which I was admiring the other day, and wondering just how many tens or hundreds of kilometers away they were. They’re so far off that if they didn’t have just a jagged ridgeline, you might think they were clouds. Just a soft blue hardly distinguishable from the sky itself. There’s just something special about mountains. I remember talking to a guy, in Tokyo, and we had a special affinity, both being readers, and wearing the exact same pair of glasses, his name was Patrick, and we were talking about what drew us to Japan, and I mentioned the mountains, and he said that he thought he couldn’t or wouldn’t want to live somewhere where there weren’t any mountains. I’m inclined to agree. And when it comes to mountains, Ozu has a particular appeal. There is just something awe inspiring about living in the shadow of the largest active volcano in Japan. And that reminds me of another conversation that I had recently. On my last day, if I had one final day left to live, I think I’d invite everyone I knew, or didn’t know, anybody at all who wanted to come to someone’s final day party, to an incredible display of debauchery on top of Mt. Aso. Inside of the cauldera, it’s quite flat, and spacious, grassy fields ringed with rock. And inside the cauldera, over in the back, on the north side, is the opening. There must be a scientific word for that. The mouth of the volcano. I would host an enormous party, with a stage, live bands, horse riding, fireworks, copious amounts of alcohol, amateur sumo wrestling, whatever, and then, at the end of the day, I’d give a speech, throw on some leather, hop on a motorcycle, and with music blaring, and fireworks blasting, and to the cheering of all, drive off a ramp into firey doom of Mt. Aso. It is the most thrilling way to die I can think of within 50 kilometers of me. But, in sharing this idea, this is how I learned that in the mouths of all volcanoes are not open pools of bubbling lava. I guess I thought that they were. Apparently a crust forms over the top. You may think that I’m stupid for not knowing that, but I didn’t. I imagined that they were all boiling, frothing basins of red hot lava, and I’m more than a little disappointed that they’re not. I think the distance from the edge of the mouth the crust is so far, though, that I’d still die from the impact, when I jumped off into it. So, it doesn’t totally ruin my plan, but I did imagine more of a burning, melting sensation, in my final moments, then just a sudden splat. For me, it’s more appealing to disintegrate, and leave no trace behind, then to be splattered everywhere. しょうがないね. But it would be thrilling nonetheless.

Going off of the volcanoes not all being pits of flame thing, I had another similar revelation this past week, and one that might be easily used to accuse me of being an idiot. Do you know where your stomach is? I’ve asked several people this question, recently, as I’ve been wondering if this is more or less common knowledge, and I’m the only one who didn’t know, or if there are people like me, who just thought they knew where it was, and were living a lie. Everyone that I’ve asked has known. That doesn’t necessarily mean that most people know. I could just be surrounded by some very smart people. I think what’s more likely is that somehow I’ve made it this far in life without managing to see any of the infinity of diagrams displaying the arrangement of the internal organs in the body, or if I had, I’m sure I had, I had entirely forgotten them, and come up with my own diagram, existing only in my head, and not in reality. The other day I saw one of these diagrams, and had to look at several, because I did not trust that single diagram, as it was so entirely different from my mental one, but they all seemed to show the same thing, that your stomach is about in the middle of your torso. That single fact has blown my mind every day for the past week. It still does. Your stomach is approximately between your belly button and nipples, and situated somewhat to the left. If you had asked me where the stomach was, before my awakening, I would have pointed to my belly button. I thought it was right about there. Because that’s where the sounds come from. The tummy-grumblings. Also, I thought that the lungs were maybe 3x larger than they actually are. I thought that I had just an incredible set of lungs. What really blew my mind, looking at one of those diagrams, was how massive your intenstines are. I really had no idea. I don’t even like thinking about how massive the intenstines are. And the fact that my stomach is nearly in my chest. Don’t even get me started on the kidneys. I should not bring up the fact that I was a biology major, now. But, in my defense, I never took anatomy, and have never been all that interested in anatomy. I did take a zoology course, and cut open a number of poor, formaldehyde-soaked dead things, for science, and I didn’t really enjoy any of that.

So that’s a one-off. You could maybe say that was a two-off. Let’s keep going.

Here, these are all related. I can give you several recent of examples of amusing miscommunications. We can go in order of recency, reverse chronological order, if you like. The most recent of these happened just last week. I spent most of the Ozu High School’s championship soccer game in conversation with Uramoto sensei, who I have brought up before. He is one of the two vice-principals at Ozu. This is a confusing thing. There are two 教頭先生 (kyoutou sensei) at Ozu. I have had many a conversation about what the roles of the three individuals that sit in a row in front of the main cluster of teachers desks, where the normies sit, are, and here they are. There is a 教頭先生 (kyoutou sensei)、a 副校長先生 (fukukouchou sensei), and then another guy (or girl). Isn’t this sad, that I still don’t know, all three roles, and I’m sure I’ve been told many times now. That third role is the head of the teaching staff, but I don’t have the official name of the title. Anyway, the difficulty is in how to say kyoutou sensei in English. Fukukouchou sensei is obviously vice principal. That was obvious, wasn’t it? Well, now, wait a minute. I was going to say that we also call the kyoutou sensei vice principal, and that’s the confusing thing, but now I’m looking at those kanji, in 教頭, 教 being teach, and 頭 being head, and, well.. That certainly seems to be head teacher, doesn’t it.

I don’t want to write about that anymore. Let’s move on.

This is my blog. I don’t have to do that to myself.

I was having a nice conversation with Uramoto sensei. He is an incredibly nice man. I wrote before, I’m sure, that he was one of my favorites at Ozu. This man works about eighty hours a week. Seventy to eighty hours a week. They cut down on cleaning time at Ozu, and now only clean twice a week. But, there’s still trash to be collected in the teacher’s room. So who collects the trash? Yes yes, our man Uramoto. He shows up at around 7, and leaves at nine or ten, each night, and he commutes at least an hour every day. That’s not the only reason he’s working so late. That’s just an example, one of the many. I actually have no idea what he does, but he is always doing something. The BBC recently posted an article about overwork, overwork being the working of 55 hours or more a week, being a greater cause of death than malaria. More people die from overwork than malaria. I didn’t mention this report to Uramoto sensei, when he’s telling me all of this, because I don’t want to stress him out anymore, because I’m sure that would be stressful, to be stressed from working too much, and to then be stressed about your stress, because it’s killing you. But, I’m worried about that man. If anyone dies from overwork, and I don’t want anyone to, of course, but if anyone does, I’d really rather it not be Uramoto sensei. I would like him to enjoy a nice, relaxing, fulfilling retirement, with fingerpainting, long walks on the beach, and bottomless mimosas. I spent most of that game, not watching the game, but rather talking to Uramoto sensei, who was entertaining me with stories of his family trip to see the giant hanging fish (we had both been there on the same day, it turns out) and of eighty-hour work weeks. It came around that I started asking him about 熊本弁 (Kumamoto ben), which I like to ask the older teachers about, because they know some good ben. Ben being dialect. In Japan, there are strong regional dialects, and although they are weakening with the younger generations, I think you can still tell where someone is from based on how they speak, in the vocabulary and grammar that they use, and perhaps in the intonation as well. There is a great video on this, that I watched the other day, of a guy speaking in all 47 prefectures’ dialects, with the standard Japanese (which is, Tokyo Japanese?) captioned below, and I couldn’t understand any of it, including the Kumamoto ben. So, that partially inspired me to ask Uramoto sensei. This is one reason why it is nearly impossible to understand older people here. Another reason, applying specifically to the men, is that they move their mouths so little, and have such deep voices, and speak so quickly, that to the inexperienced ear, their language is not Japanese, but some kind of ancient, tonal grunting. I don’t want to call them cavemen. It’s not that bad. But it might help you understand what I mean. Over time, their speech has just gradually devolved into being the most effecient, with the least amount of effort, required. The higher your rank, in the Japanese world, the shorter your sentences can be, and once you’ve reached the top, you hardly have to speak at all. At least, you’ll never have to form a complete sentence again. I’m getting at the Kumamoto ben, because I asked Uramoto sensei, if he could teach me any, and he did. That day, as it has been recently, was a scorcher, and Uramoto sensei taught me the proper Kumamotoan way to say, “It’s hot.” And there are two ways. One, is a general change that you can make to any adjective, by just dropping the i at the end, and adding a ka, and drawing it out. So, if I say, atsui, which is, it’s hot, I would say, atsuka—–. Or, for samui, it’s cold, samuka—-. Then, there is the real Kumamoto version, which may be an entirely new word, and not an alteration of existing ones, which is, nu-ka—. Only real Kumamotoans know this. He told me. The real ben speakers. After the game was over, (Ozu won 4-0, I think I missed every goal), equipped with my new ben, I mosied back to the classroom, and came over to my desk, and saw Kusuyama sensei in her seat next to mine. As I pulled back my seat, to sit in it, I said to Kusuyama sensei, who is from Kumamoto, I should add, “Phew! Yu-ka—ne—-!” She turns to me, “Yu-ka—?” She was suprised to hear my Kumamoto ben, I was sure. I repeated, “Kyou wa (today), yu-ka—-ne!” She’s not surprised. She’s confused. She’s repeating to herself, “Yuka? Yuka?” And now I’m confused, and give an uncertain, “Yu-ka?” I’m now wondering if either Uramoto sensei taught me something so esoteric that even the average real Kumamotoan doesn’t know it, or I’ve got something wrong, when Kusuyama sensei’s eyes light up, and she says, “Oh, Nu-ka-ne!” And I reply, “Yes, yes! Nu-ka!” And she starts laughing. She says, “Ah, nu-kane. Kumamoto ben, hai, hai. I thought you were trying to say your butt hurt from sitting in the gym. Yuka means floor, ne.” And then I realized that I had just come over to her, and been saying, “Floor! Today, floor!”

Another recent and entertaining miscommunication. I was walking my walk through the neighborhood, returning, when, as I turned the corner at an intersection, I ran into two of my students (or, they seemed to act like my students. At least they seemed to know me, although I couldn’t tell that I’d ever seen their faces.) They said hi, and told me they we’re going to the grocery store. And I said, you know, that’s great, and have fun. And I specifically said the words, “Have fun!” And our conversation was going along smoothly, until I uttered these words. At that, the lead boy, on his bike, stumbled. He looked at me uncertainly. “iPhone?” He replied. I tried again. “Have fun!” He said. “iPhone.” I repeated once again. “Have fun!” He said to me, reaching for his pocket, “持っています.” Motteimasu. (I’ve got one.) He then turns to his friend behind him for help. His friend is just as confused. “Headphones?” He ventures. They look to me again. And I can’t just keep repeating “Have fun!” at them, as much as I’d like to, as I’ve already carried it on long enough, and if they haven’t gotten it now, the chances are extremely low that they will get it, and so I said, “楽しんでください!” Tanoshinde kudasai. Have a nice time. And they said, “Ah! Thank you!” As I was walking back to my apartment, I practiced saying “have fun” and “iPhone” with Japanese pronunciation, and they are similar. I get why they thought that. But, wouldn’t it be hilarious if I was really just standing there, at the end of our conversation, and repeating, “iPhone! iPhone!” That’s as ridiculous as me sitting down next to Kusuyama sensei and going, “Floor! Floor!” iPhone is just a standard American goodbye. We are that proud of them. It’s a way to remind each other of our innovative and enterprising spirit.

Here’s another recent one. These happen often, weekly at least. This was a few weeks ago. I was in the office kitchen. Just two days ago I asked 森田先生 (Morita sensei, Forest Field) what you call this room, because I’d been wondering about it. She didn’t know either. I keep thinking there is a specific name for this kind of room. Is it a staff room? Is it a break room? Is it just a kitchen? Kitchen doesn’t quite feel right. It’s weird to me to say that you have a kitchen in the middle of your office. And no one really cooks there anyways. The most cooking that happens is heating up water for instant ramen. That’s all. So calling it a kitchen is really a stretch, although you could cook there if you wanted to. They have the equipment for it. I should really cook a nice meal in there on one of my lunch breaks. I do get fifty minutes. That’s more than enough time to cook something nice up. I think I would just be in everyone’s way if I did that. I would get an incredible amount of attention, as every teacher who popped in there to get their lunch, or drink, or make coffee, or microwave something, would see me sauteeing some onions in a pan, and ask me, as they shove me aside to open up the fridge door, or squeeze behind me to get at the microwave, what, are you actually cooking something? I could bring an apron and a chef’s hat. They would all get a big kick out of that. This is starting to sound like a really great idea. A few weeks ago, I guess we’re going with kitchen, in this office kitchen, I was in it, and I ran into Yokogawa sensei (Sideways River, 横川) (it’s a small kitchen, it’s unavoidable that we run into each other) (anyone who enters the kitchen with you must be at the minimum greeted, no matter how unwilling the two parties. It’s just the standard etiquette of such a small room. On few occasions I have said nothing and it’s quite awkward. When two and only two humans find themselves together in such close proximity, you really have to make the choice to speak or not, because there’s no way that either of you could pretend at that point that you didn’t notice each other, or were thinking about something else. It’s not a great room for misanthropes, or the socially inept.) I struck up a conversation with Yokogawa sensei, and at one point, unprompted, she said to me, “Today, chili.” Now, this is harder to convey, because I have to type that word, with one kind of spelling, and then you’ll know what she was saying, based on the spelling, but there are two words that she could have been saying, right. Chili, and chilly. Seeing as we were in the kitchen, and I had just finished asking another sensei what they had brought for lunch, and she was herself standing in front of me with lunch in hand, I thought she must be talking about her lunch, and I was shook, because I’ve never heard any Japanese person mention chili up to this point, and I had really almost entirely forgotten about chili, and so the fact that Yokogawa sensei was having chili for lunch, not only that she had made chili, but brought it in for lunch, which was so outside of the standard range of answers when you ask a Japanese high school teacher what they brought for lunch was, that it I shook me, and I said, “What, really? Chili? You made chili? I didn’t know that anyone in Japan ate chili!” And she says, “No, no. Today, it’s cold. The weather is chilly.”

I have more. Here’s the last one, of the recents. I was talking with Ryoka, my Japanese friend in Malaysia, known as “Malaysia girl” to many, about whatever we talk about, and for some reason I mentioned Jeff Bezos. I think I was quizzing her on famous Americans. She may have said that she didn’t know that many. I threw Jeff Bezos out there, and she said, “べーぞ?(Behzo?) Yeah, I know べーぞ。べーぞ pizza, ne!” She thought I was saying basil. And then I thought about two things, which is, one, a Jeff Bezos pizza, and two, a Jeff Bezos, except his name is instead Jeff Basil. What would be on a Jeff Bezos pizza? What set of ingredients suggest world domination? Or maybe each pizza just has a nice full headshot of Jeff Basil posted on the underside of the box lid. It could just be Jeff’s favorite kind of pizza. These are all good suggestions. I should ask her about Elon Musk.

In this same conversation, Ryoka told me a story. This is the story of the baby’s ぐー。(Gu.) I told her that that’s the sound that babies make, in English. The sound of an English speaking baby. Goo goo gaa gaa. The sound of a Japanese speaking baby: ngyaa ngyaa. んぎゃーんぎゃー. I would now like to hear baby sounds in all languages. The story of the baby’s ぐー is this. And you have to write it with that little ー. If you don’t, it’s quite confusing for the Japanese. They won’t know what you’re talking about.ぐー means rock, and it also means fist, and is used in rock paper scissors (グーとパ、別れましょう!) I think that’s what they say, although I’m now wondering why they say that, because they’re saying, rock and paper, let’s pick one, and why would you ever pick rock in such a situation, unless you are a true rock man, or you would like to lose. I’ll have to ask about this. (Here’s the answer: This is used for dividing teams. And that makes sense, because 別れる means divide up, and there are only two options. 説明 (setsume, explanation) courtesy of Mr. Parker Junior.) But, anyways, グー is fist. Babies are born with closed hands, I guess, with closed fists, and in each fist, they are holding something. In one hand, they hold the name of the person who will be the most important to them in their lives. The name of the person who will have the greatest influence on their life. The person you marry, for example. Or Shia LeBouf, if you’ve been particularly struck by his “Just Do It!” video. In the other hand, they hold the name of the Pokémon that will lead them to become the next greatest Pokémon master. Ash, or, Satoshi (Japanese name) for example, was obviously holding the name Pikachu. I’m just kidding about this. In the other hand, they hold their dream. Their future dream. Their greatest achievement. So it could actually be the name of the Pokémon that will guide them to absolute victory. I think that’s right, that they hold their dream. I was tickled by the idea of all Japanese people being born with the name of a spirit Pokémon in their hands that I may have forgotten how the legend really goes. This is a Japanese legend (is this kind of thing a legend?), and I thought it was interesting. People spend their lives then trying to catch what they let go of when they were first born. Just a few days ago, while I was on the phone, I caught a mosquito one-handed, and I was so startled that I may have just caught a mosquito one-handed, pretty nonchalantly, like you might reach out to pick your watch up off your desk, that the first thing I did, before even giving my hand a squeeze or anything, was just open my hand back up, to confirm that I really had caught it, and as I watched it fly up and out of my hand, upon opening, I knew that not only had I just caught a mosquito one-handed, but I had also just let it go. And this was in my apartment, where I am now sleeping in a tent, on some nights, to protect myself, although it has recently gotten so hot, that inside of that tent I am being cooked alive, and now have to make the difficult choice, every night, of either falling asleep in an uncomfortable pool of sweat, or while slapping myself in the face and head every five, ten, fifteen minutes, until finally becoming so fatigued that mosquitoes are allowed to drink even the blood of my face freely. I think they are learning, though, that if they just fly down to my feet, my legs, even my arms, they can have a free meal, and avoid all potential danger. This is a long story, the story between the mosquitoes and I. But why I say this is because, if I do end up catching my dream, however I end up catching it, I hope I don’t do what I did with the mosquito, and find myself so startled that I caught it, that I open up hand to see if I did, and end up letting it go. Maybe it’s better that I didn’t kill that mosquito.

The above is a recording of Malaysia Girl imitating a Japanese baby. I thought you’d like to have the audio. Actually, you kind of need it. I really have no idea how you read ngyaa ngyaa to yourself. I read it the way I hear the baby voice, but I already know what the sound is, and now you do too. You can compare this to the sound you thought the baby was making, when you read that ngyaa ngyaa. Were you close? This is the sound of a Japanese baby. I’m really proud of including this audio file, by the way. This is a major milestone in this blog’s history. A groundbreaking post.

You know what, here is the American version. This is me. It’s not fair that my American readers get the Japanese baby, and my Japanese don’t get the American. This is the sound of the American baby. The first audio files uploaded to this blog are twenty year olds making baby sounds. That’s the kind of blog we’re running here, I guess.

We’re doing good, here. I think I’ve told you a lot of good things. We’ve made some baby sounds. There are only two more things I think I’d like to tell you before we wrap this post up.

I am changing the name of my blog. $30 is the price that I have to pay for being an uncreative and unoriginal monkey. I came up with the name for this blog, ManInJapan, using about the same amount of time and energy it takes to sneeze, and am being punished for it. I can’t stand searching ManInJapan and seeing tens, hundreds, of other ManInJapan accounts, and being reminded that I am one of them, one of this horde of incredibly uncreative and unoriginal men, who realized that yes they are a man, and that the words man and Japan sound nice together, and they are in fact a man in Japan, and so man in Japan is obviously a great name, except for the fact that basically any man in Japan can put this together, and then only the ones who are not totally uncreative or unoriginal realize that everyone else will use this too, and then opt for something better, that takes a little more than a single second to come up with. ManInJapan was the first name I really thought of, and while it does have a great ring to it, I see my options as being only this: either I continue to exist among this horde of ManInJapan accounts, and achieve ultimate dominance, establishing myself as THE true ManInJapan, or I simply change my name, to something that is just slightly more specific to me, and distinguishes me in some way from the ManInJapan army. The second option is just easier, and I also can’t really stand being ManInJapan anymore, and so I’m going to change the name to hakuchoumusuko. 白鳥息子. This is, 白鳥, being swan, hakuchou, white bird, and musuko, 息子, being son. This is my last name. We can argue about how much more creative this is or isn’t. I think it’s still more creative than ManInJapan. It’s also personal. And, this is one of the most reliable jokes in my self-introduction lesson, which has now become a half standup comedy routine, as something about it just really gets the Japanese, me converting my name to Japanese, the way that I convert theirs to English. I’m lucky enough to be one of the very few who can do this with their last names. Yet more evidence that my relationship with Japan is a fated one. I say it like this, in class. “And my last name is Swanson.” And some of them will say, Swanson. And I’ll say, “Do you know what a swan is?” At higher levels, hakuchou is said immediately. At lower levels, it might take a few tries. At the lowest levels, only silence, and then if someone gets it, they are immediately recognized by the class as being the new representative English guru. Then I say, “How about son?” And at the higher levels, musuko is usually said. At the lower levels, taiyou is said first, which is sun, and then my Japanese sensei sidekick will say, no, not that one. At the lowest levels, again, silence, and if anyone does know it, English guru. Then, once they know what we’re talking about, the punchline. “So, my name is Steven Hakuchoumusuko.” And cue big laughs. The first time I ever told this joke, it was entirely spontaneous, as these all are, it popped out after probably the twenty or thirtieth self-intro lesson, and it got big laughs, and even a compliment by one of the senseis after the lesson. “I liked your hakuchou musuko joke.” And I thought, “Was that a joke?” So I knew that was a keeper. I think the evolution of my self-intro lesson parallels the evolution of an organism, or really, the evolution of anything at all. Evolution doesn’t change. The process of evolution. Evolution itself is obviously quite dynamic. I try it over and over, making small alterations, spontaneous mutations, and if they are effective (get laughs) they stay, and if they aren’t, they don’t, and over time, my lesson is improved. Actually, my first self-intro lesson was just a pathetic mess, compared to what we have today, but it took, what, some 70+ runs to get the point where it will reliably entertain the average high school aged Kumamotoan. I’ve heard that some standup comedians have a no phone policy when they perform at weekly clubs, when they’re trying out new material, because they’re taking risks, and they don’t know if something will bomb or not, and they don’t want it getting out and bombing on the world stage, the internet. What we see in their final performances, their tours, their TV specials, are the products of a long period of tempering. My self-intro lesson has gone through the same process. I’m glad there are no recordings of my first run throughs.

Now that we’re on jokes, we can tie this last thing in perfectly. Parker recently told a good joke, when we were out planting rice a few weekends ago, as we do. Well, as he does. Once in awhile. You don’t have to plant rice all that frequently. Just a few times a year. We were planting some rice, and having some nice conversations, with our new friends, Tomomi san, and Tsuki san, and Osajima san, and Parker, at one point, asked Tomomi san, “What’s your favorite soda?” Tomomi san is quite a bubbly person. Really, she’s just a like a soda. It seems that her natural response to any interaction is laughter. When we first rendezvoused, in a Family Mart parking lot, made our introductions and had a short conversation, and were heading off to go to the scene of the action, I remember that Tomomi san was laughing, still laughing, as she opened her car door and sat down in the driver’s seat. She was still so tickled. It also struck me that she seemed to think her thoughts out loud, and I say all this just to give you a sense of why and how she responded to Parker’s question, “What’s your favorite soda?” with a lengthy, vocal, internal debate over whether she liked soda at all, and what constitutes as soda, and out of those, what she did like, which all culminated with her saying, “In America, I had a strawberry drink. I think it was strawberry.” And Parker says, “Fanta?” And she says no. “Strawberry..” They’re standing, and here, I’m kneeling, taking a rest, staring down into the deep chocolate mud of the rice paddy, listening, and I also thought it must be Fanta, and so if it’s not Fanta, well, it could be Cherry Coke, which has a similar fruity taste, right, and it’s a good one, at one point was one of my favorite sodas, and so I say, “Cherry Coke?” And she says, “So so so!” (Yes yes, that one!) This all took at least thirty seconds, and some several back and forth exchange, and you can tell throughout all of it, that Parker really just wanted Tomomi san to say a soda, any soda. He says to her, again, now that we’ve found our answer, “So what’s your favorite soda?” And Tomomi san says, “Cherry Coke.” And Parker says, “Souda.” そうだ。Do you get it? Is any joke funny if you have to explain it? Not really. That might be why this joke is failing so hard on the student circuit. But I’ll explain it. It is more apparent to Japanese speakers, or it should be. そうだ (souda) can mean, “Is that so?” Or “That’s so.” depending on your intonation. So, you know, you ask what their favorite soda is, or favorite anything is, just ask any question, and souda is a common and acceptable response. Except in this situation, you know, it’s also soda, and that’s what we’re talking about, so you’re responding with the same word.. yeah, you get it now, you must. Is that funny? I think that it’s funny. I like it a lot. I’ve liked it so much, that I taken it into the classroom. Every class I have, we start off by just saying hi. I try to warm them up a bit, give them a little pre-lesson entertainment, if I can, just check the pulse of the class, give them a little energy if they need it. It’s a good time to try and make them laugh. If you can secure a laugh right at the beginning, that’s big. I had found major success with a joke, recently, this joke, “What is Michael Jackson’s favorite color?” Everybody knows Michael Jackson. I give them a few seconds, to float their random guesses, and potential explanations, before hitting them with the punchline, “Ao!” Said like Michael Jackson in a Michael Jackson song. You can imagine it, right. This is funny because that sound, ao, あお、is blue, in Japanese. It’s a good joke. It kills. And this has been hard for me to nail, this Michael Jackson Ao! sound. Sometimes the sound that comes out of me is just so strange. And sometimes my voice cracks. It’s also hard for me to get the volume right. I don’t want to scream it at the kids, but you need a certain amount of vocal energy to make a sound like that. Following up that joke, this past week, I’ve been trying the soda joke. Already, this joke has a problem, in that most students don’t know what soda is. So, they look at each other, saying, “Soda? Soda?” Someone might know. They will come to a general understanding, and my sensei sidekick or I will explain, and already the joke is losing steam, and answers will start to trickle out, but it’s all uncoordinated, and the students may not be listening at all, now, when I start trying to reply, “Souda.” to them. It’s impossible for me to tell whether they understand the joke or not, as well, when I reply, “Souda.” because they almost never laugh. When it has all gone off perfectly, and I’ve asked the question, and a student has understood, and has given me an appropriate answer, and at an appropriate volume, that the class is aware of what’s happening, and I can then reply, “souda.” even when all conditions are met, this joke has failed. It brings at most, feeble chuckles, or some grins. Nothing at all like the success I was having with the Michael Jackson joke. It’s not the reception I was expecting. On the second day of my telling of this joke, of me running it through the circuit, I was at Ozu, and it was my third class of the day. I said, to the class, again, “Can I ask you guys a question?” They say, yes. Some students don’t know what that question in itself means. Usually they do. I only need one student’s permission to go ahead with it. I say, “What’s your favorite soda?” This class, again, needs to know what soda is. Some students start talking to each other about it. Some students are looking at me in complete silence. Some students are thinking. Very few students mumble answers. No one speaks confidently enough for me to reply to so that the class will catch the joke. I ask one student in the back, then, after this initial confusion phase has passed, and we are all on the same page, that I’m asking them about soda, and what their favorite soda is, and they’ve had time to think of an answer, I ask one guy in the back, my man Nakamura kun, who I know can give me a straight answer, I ask him, “What’s your favorite soda?” He says, “No soda.” He’s a soccer player. I think, dammit Nakamura kun. I’ve wasted enough time at this point, it’s probably already been five minutes, and I’m supposed to be doing some kind of lesson, with a plan and purpose and everything. I turn to the front, looking down at the girls right in front of me. I recognize a girl (don’t flame me, I don’t know her name, I’m sorry, but we’re good friends, I swear) who I’m good friends with, have had many a conversation with, told many a joke to, pulled many a weed with, during cleaning time, and who is not a shy girl, thinking she is another surefire, and I ask her, “What’s your favorite soda?” And suddenly, this girl freezes up. You would think she just stepped out on the stage of Japan’s Got Talent and was asked to perform something. She’s looking straight down, embarrassed. She will not be giving me the name of any soda. I cross the room. I’m desperate now. Soccer player in the front, he’s an outspoken guy, he will give me an answer. I ask, for the sixth or seventh time now, “What’s your favorite soda?” He thinks for a second. “Mmm, water.” God dammit. I almost threw my hands up in the air. I think I did, actually. I look at a guy in the center of the room now. Someone has to answer this question. We’ve come too far to let it go. He is another soccer player. We’ve worked out together in the gym. We’re bros. He has to answer this question. I look at him, with a look that says, “Just say a soda, kid. Please. Just say the name of any soda.” And he says, “Ramune.” And that is the name of a soda. And finally, I get to do it. We can do the joke. And I say, just to confirm it with everyone, that his answer was an acceptable one, that it was a soda, “Your favorite soda is ramune?” And he says, “Yes.” And I say, “Souda.” This is the big moment. How hard did the joke fail? I look around. There are a few snickers. Some realization of the joke. One or two smiles. Most students seemed to have resigned themselves to the antics and are waiting to be told when it’s time for the real lesson. Ramune boy lets out a small laugh. Compared with previous classes, this class loved it. I let out a massive sigh. I’m just glad to have gotten it out, at this point, and we could move on. But, I had to let them know, I thought they deserved a little more of an explanation, about what I had just put them through. I said, you know guys, I’ve told this joke three times today. And in the first two classes, not a single person laughed. And of course, that made them laugh. A surefire way to get a class to laugh at your joke is to tell them about how other classes didn’t laugh at the joke. I will do this often when I have a joke that fails. In this way, even if your joke is an utter dud, you are still guaranteed to get a laugh. In failure, it succeeds. They could tell I was frustrated with the failings of this joke, and one student offered his reasoning for it, saying, sympathetically, “難しい.” Muzukashii. It’s a difficult joke.

I told this joke again, completing the circuit, this Friday, at Shoyo, with Kaneto sensei’s first year class. Kaneto sensei is a new teacher I work with. He’s a fun guy. Likes soccer, and drinking beer. He’s a graduate student at Kumamoto University. We get along well. I told the joke to the first years, was met with again, what could be described as a lukewarm reception at best, and Kaneto sensei, in wrapping this up, says to the class, “American joke.” And this is a funny thing. When I tell a joke, and the joke fails, my Japanese friends will often respond with, “Ah, American joke, ne.” What I think this is, even if the joke isn’t American, as in this joke, the favorite soda joke, because you know, this is not an American joke at all, this is totally a Japanese joke, because no American who doesn’t speak Japanese would get the joke, I think it is their way of trying to make the joke teller feel better. If I can conjecture to capture what they mean to express by saying this, “American joke,” they’re trying to say, “This joke is not funny to me, or us, Japanese. But we’re not saying it’s not funny. It probably does great with the American crowd. Just not with us.” I appreciate that, even though none of the jokes I tell them are really American jokes, and in truth they’re just bad jokes. But they’re giving me an out. Yet another example of how the Japanese are a very courteous people.

Blog post end. That’s it for this collection of one offs. It’s 27 degrees Celcius here, 蒸し暑い (mushiatsui) as hell, (humid), and I can’t sit here and sweat any longer. When I sit, my legs get so incredibly sweaty. This is the season where I spend every day at work wishing I could wear shorts at work. I tried to tell them once, that I’d like to wear shorts, (the head honchos) but I accidentally used the word for pants (I was a different Japanese speaker then) and they must have come away from that thinking, well, Steven really enjoys wearing pants, and it’s interesting that he’s asking us about wearing pants, because he is wearing pants at this very moment. He is just an interesting guy.

Final quote. I don’t know where it came from. I think it was from Emerson’s Essays. I also don’t know who Zoraster is, but he’s got a cool name. But I like it. And in these times, we could all use an extra dose of perseverance, I think.

“‘To the persevering mortal,’ said Zoraster, ‘the blessed Immortals are swift.'”

Jya mata ne! じゃまたね!

On Cars, Bikes, and Following Your Genius 車、自転車、直感を従うことには

Update from the future: Just to give you a preview of what is in this very long post: I am basically writing about my decision to stop using my car that I eventually did sell, and how I came to the decision. That’s basically it. If you’re looking for funny stories about farting and misspoken Japanese they’re not in this one. If you’re looking for quotes from transcendentalists and a dissertation on the advantages of bikes over cars, look no further.

Alright gang. We’re back.

I know, I know. It’s only been a week! Steven, you just wrote such a doozy, and now you’re coming right back around and giving us another other one, not a week later?

And to that I say, you bet your sweet bungus I am!

I’ve got things to tell you! And like I said, “A squid won’t cook itself,” well neither will a blog post write itself, and these things must be written, lest the moment pass, and they are forever gone. I believe, this is true with ideas, that with all ideas there is a certain window of action, that you have where you can seize an idea, and do something with it, make something out of it, or let it pass, and its moment will be gone. And perhaps you will have another chance at it, or perhaps not. This idea, the one I want to share with you now, is a fruit that has been maturing for some time, and I think it is now as ripe as it will ever be, and the time is as good as any to pluck it. So sit back, get comfortable, maybe grab a snack, some nice squid hearts, maybe a squid soufflé (I actually don’t know what a soufflé even is) and let me tell you about my little experiment in following my genius, and deciding to live life without a car.

The first thing I need to get at is the following your genius thing. I am not a genius, but I can follow it, and that is why I decided to stop driving my car for the month of March. Motorless March, I called it. I actually almost sold it, and even went to the length of calling up my dealer, taking it in to him, having him look it over, and then coming to his question, “Do you really want to sell this? Do you really really want to sell this?” and promising him that I’d really think it over, and after two of my close friends recommended that I try out a carless month first, and see how it goes, as a trial experiment, before fully plunging myself into the world of the no-car, only to find that it does not suit me all that much, and I am pained to go through the process of getting a new one, or to suffer with the ramifications of my poor and impulsive decision. But, while I did at their suggestion hold onto my car, prior to starting this experiment, I strongly suspected that I already knew what the outcome would be, and here we are, at the end of the month, and I can say that I was entirely correct in my suspicion. After an entire month without my car, I can say that not once, not a single time, did I think, “Man, I wish I could drive!” But what I did find myself thinking, time and time again, was the exact opposite, that I was glad that I didn’t have one. And so I will give you some examples, but you have already seen some, if you read my last post. On embarking on this experiment, somehow I had not even considered all of the merits of my decision to ditch the car and walk to school, but that came to me as I was writing that last post, and is even further support for the case of going without the car. So, I will give you some concrete examples, and what I’ve learned from this experiment, and the goals of this post then are two-fold – if this can be a lesson for you on following your genius, or a piece that challenges you to see your car in a new light, then I think I can say that this was a successful one!

First, on following your genius. I have mentioned genius a few times now, and what am I talking about? I am using genius in the way that our man Henry David Thoreau uses genius. I usually end my posts with quotes, but for this one, I need to give you a quote now, because this quote, primarily, along with some of Thoreau’s other compelling words on genius, was the catalyst, that brought me to cross that critical threshold between thought and action. So here is the quote:

“If one listens to the faintest but constant suggestions of his genius, which are certainly true, he sees not to what extremes, or even insanity, it may lead him; and yet that way, as he grows more resolute and faithful, his road lies. The faintest assured objection which one healthy man feels will at length prevail over the arguments and customs of mankind. No one ever followed his genius till it misled him. Though the result were bodily weakness, yet perhaps no one can say that the consequences were to be regretted, for there were a life in conformity to higher principles. If the day and the night are such that you greet them with joy, and life emits a fragrance like flowers and sweet-scented herbs, is more elastic, more starry, more immortal, – that is your success. All nature is your congratulation, and you have cause momentarily to bless yourself. The greatest gains and values are farthest from being appreciated. We easily come to doubt if they exist. We soon forget them. They are the highest reality. Perhaps the facts most astounding and most real are never communicated by man to man. The true harvest of my daily life is somewhat as intangible and indescribable as the tints of morning or evening. It is a little star-dust caught, a segment of the rainbow which I have clutched.”

It’s long, I know. Thoreau writes like this. Emerson does as well. Perhaps that’s why I am so enamored with them both. Thoreau is a man who catches star-dust, who does greet the day and night with joy, who felt bad for his jailers, when he was put into jail, for not paying taxes to the state of Massachusetts for something like seven years, because he did not support slavery, and Massachusetts was profiting off of and enabling the slave trade, at that time, and he felt that his jailers, after imprisoning him, thought that they had him confined – but he could not be confined, because in his heart he was free, much more than they, because while physically confined, spiritually he was as free as a bird. Actually, he thought they, and the state itself, were entirely pathetic, after that incident, as Thoreau was, taxes excepted, as good of or better than any citizen you could ask for, and was not in any way a threat to the state, and yet they imprisoned him. Thoreau lives by his genius, truly; that is one example, and another I could give is the whole fact that he moved out into the woods and lived there alone for two years, because he felt like he should, and he ended up writing the masterpiece, that this quote is from, that is Walden. I included the full length of this quote because I thought that, given that he includes them in the same passage, there must be a link between following genius, and catching star-dust, and when I think about this experiment, and even the outcomes of my walking to school, that there is a connection there.

So like I said, this quote is ultimately what got me to embark on this little carless experiment of mine. It is the reason why I pulled the trigger. About two or three months ago, I did something I had been meaning to do for a long time, and had never got around to, which was actually figured out exactly what my income and expenses were. Prior to this, I just knew that I was making more money than I was losing, and that was good enough for me. But I could only stand saying not being able to answer questions about my life financials so many times before I felt like it was necessary that I got the answers, and so I did, and I found that I was spending about 2万円 a month on car expenses, (about $200). I thought at that time, entirely jokingly, “Hey if I didn’t have a car, I’d save 2万円 a month!” And then this thought was followed by another, “But, of course, I need my car.” I can say now that not only did I not need my car, but in the same way that I was better off walking to school than driving, I am better off living without a car in all other aspects of my life, than having one.

In the days after I did that little, getting my affairs in order business, that thought of getting rid of the car kept coming back to me. I thought about all of the reasons why I needed my car – there weren’t many. I thought about all of the reasons I should give it up – there were many more. Why did I think I needed my car? Convenience, was one. Convenience on its own is hardly a good reason to do anything. Another, was freedom. Paradoxically enough, I found that I had more freedom without the car. That’s really it, in a nutshell. Why did I think I should give it up? This list is much longer. Obviously, for the environment. Also, for the savings. Those are good enough reasons, but there are other, more powerful, and less apparent reasons. I thought that, like walking to school, going without the car would put me outside of my comfort zone. After being here for as long as I have, as anyone inevitably finds themselves becoming after doing the same things for an extended period of time, I have gotten quite comfortable in many aspects of my life. I’m happy I can say that’s so, but if we take Emerson’s words, “People wish to be settled: only as far as they are unsettled is there any hope for them,” to heart, then it’s wise not to get too comfortable, and so I felt that this would be a good way to shake things up, raise the difficulty level on my life a bit, you could say. I will get into this when I talk about public transportation, of which, as a result of ditching the car, I now have many stories. The other of the more subtle reasons, I would say, was that I thought that getting rid of the car would force me to better prioritize my time. Having a car is a luxury, for me, and not a necessity. With it, I could visit my friends in the neighboring towns and cities on a whim, I could make trips to the grocery store, to the mall, to the 100円 store, when I felt like it, and I had many times come away from such trips thinking that they had not been all that necessary. Without a car, acting on impulse suddenly becomes much more difficult, in that sense. And so, the bar, or the activation threshold, for me embarking on any mission, quest, escapade, what have you, was now much higher, and I thought that, and I found that this was true, that it would force me to make better use of my time. And reflecting on it, I find that the same thing is true with my internet usage. I have no internet in my apartment. When I’m lucky, I can connect to my neighbor’s WiFi, but that WiFi is fickle, and will more often than not allow me to connect once a night, only to give me the results of my first search, and then dry up and return no more. When on that tenuous signal, I am aware that at any moment it could vanish forever, and that alone keeps me from attempting most internet activities, but often when I do try them, the internet will teasingly flicker on and off, and I will quickly lose patience with it, slam my laptop shut, and quit whatever I was doing. And this happens, the quitting, because whatever I was doing in the first place, was not all that important. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have tried to do it from my apartment in the first place, where the internet is so unreliable (I say the internet, it’s not even mine. I should say her internet, Nagata sensei’s.) When I really want to use the internet, I will either go visit Nagata sensei, or I will sit outside her apartment on the steps, where I can enjoy free-flowing, uninterrupted internet, and do my business. And I keep my business quick, because I’m most likely sweating, or shivering, with a sore rumpus, from sitting on a step of solid steel and concrete, and craning my neck down to look at the small, dimly lit screen on my lap, and so I am, because of all of these hindrances, efficient with my internet time. Unfortunately, as much as I would wish otherwise, I do have relatively low self-control, and if I had ample internet access I may not even be writing this right now, but would instead be watching English Premier League highlights on YouTube, or searching about how Rogain serves to promote hair growth (for a friend, of course), or something like that; something that I could be doing, but probably don’t need to be. By significantly raising the threshold for the ease of doing something, anything, you have to put in more effort to do it, and the decision to put effort into anything becomes more meaningful the more effort that is required. Thought, as well. Because now with my excursions, like with using the internet, the effort to action threshold has been raised, and I now have to spend a little more thought, and potentially a lot more energy, on whether I want to do something or not, and I think that this has been an incredibly effective way at delineating what in my life is worth my time, and what is not. I have turned down invites that I would have accepted if I had a car, because I didn’t. How interested was I, really, in going then? I have gone through the trouble of taking the time to learn how the busses work, and riding them, to get to the city to play soccer with some friends. That then, was clearly important to me. But not only has it forced me to weigh more considerately what is important to me, and what is not, but it has also forced me to plan out and be more efficient with my time. Before, I would go to the mega-superstore Trial. Trial is up on a hill and is out of the way for me. Because of the fact that it’s up on the hill, and I can’t even bike up that hill, in this entire month I’ve only gone to Trial once. Instead, I stop by Direx, as I pass there on the way back from Ozu High. I’d rather go to Trial, yes, and especially because Trial has my soba, and Direx doesn’t, and I’m actually pissed at Direx, because the last three times I’ve been there they haven’t had my soba, and I’m worried that they don’t even carry it anymore, and I’ve wanted to grab one of the store workers and say, “Hey, don’t you guys know that people like soba! You’re going to lose people’s business! Order more soba!” But even in my soba-rage, I can’t dump Direx, because it now just makes good sense for me to stop there. It is the most economical and efficient thing for me to do. Another point – I wanted to go to Kaldi, at the mall Hikari no mori. This is about a fifteen to twenty minute drive to the west. With a car, I would have gone. I wanted to get my natural peanut butter, which is way better than unnatural peanut butter (isn’t it weird to say that? But if what I get is natural, what else is the other kind but unnatural?) and my muesli (how do you pronounce this word?). Now it is an ordeal, and I had been mulling over when I would make the bike trip out there, when I was struck with the brilliant idea to ask Goto sensei, who I know lives in the Hikari no mori area, and frequents the mall, if she wouldn’t mind picking those things up for me the next time she goes, and I’d pay her back. And so, last weekend, after waiting a week, I got that sweet sweet Line message, “I’m at Kaldi!” And then I had my natural peanut butter and muesli, and I didn’t even have to go to the store. And when I say that paradoxically, I had more freedom as a result of my decision to ditch the car, this is partly why. While could be seen as now an increased reliance on others, I see it as a forced, economical restructuring of how I go about my business, and that restructuring has resulted in me coming away with more time, and less distraction. I can and will rope decision making fatigue into this, because why not – I’m even saving myself from having to make such decisions, about whether I should go to this or that store, to this or that event, to do this or that thing, as anything that I could, or would only do with a car, is immediately ruled out, and I consider it no more. You would think that because I don’t have a car, it takes me longer to get places, and so I would spend more time in transit, and would come out of this all with less time, but I have actually come out ahead, through virtue of the increased effort to action threshold (I keep calling it this and other things, I am not sure exactly what I should say here is, I keep thinking back to the concept of activation energy, in chemistry, which is the amount of energy that has to be supplied in order to make a reaction occur, and in this analogy, my action is the reaction, and the energy required to take the action consists of whatever might factor into the taking of the action, for example cost, time, benefits, etc.), and the fact that when I travel now, it is an experience, and so is never time wasted. That is another major point to be made about this, but I feel like I’ve mostly already made it in my last post, when talking about all of the beautiful things I get to do and see on my walk to Shoyo, that I don’t get from the drive. Whenever I go anywhere now, I go by either train, bus, bike, foot, or another’s car, and in any of those save the bike, I am not required to do anything but confirm every now and again that I’m still headed the right way, and then I can go back to fully engaging my senses in whatever capacity I like. In driving, you are a pilot, and while you can daydream, and sightsee, and enjoy the radio, or have a conversation, you can’t commit yourself to any of these things fully. On a bike, you do have to pilot, but that’s different than riding a car – that’s more sport than work. Riding a bike is exhilarating, especially in Ozu, where there is almost no level ground, where the roads are so narrow that you are almost crushed to the wall by passing cards, where the maze of cracked sidewalks and side-streets and street signs keeps you weaving, dodging, ducking, panting, coasting, endlessly engaged. And another perk about the bike is that you’re almost always in motion, and when you’re not, it’s simply a nice reprieve. Highways? You pass under them. Crosswalks? People stop for you. Traffic lights? Button you push, and turn green they will. (That’s a Yoda quote. It could be at least. I wonder if I thought to write that sentence that way because Yoda is green. The human brain is a mysterious thing..) When you finally do just have to sit it out at a light, you’re about ready for a break anyways. And the bike is the other reason why giving up the car brings more freedom. On the bike, you are truly free. You do still have to find a place to put your bike, that’s true – but bikes are much smaller than cars. I biked right into the heart of the city just yesterday, right into the heart of what they call the machi, the network of narrow streets, tiny stores, a densely crowded spot – I biked right up to the street that had the two stores I wanted to visit, and I leaned my bike up against a wall, and I stepped out onto the street, no worry about finding a place to park my cumbersome car, and at no expense. And on the way there, I passed car after car after car, stuck in waiting, mired in limbo, and I would fly right on by, with the sun in my face, with the wind rustling my shirt, with my heart pumping, and a medium grade sweat on my shins, because I wore thick sweatpants, and it was way hotter than I thought it’d be. As I passed them, I couldn’t help but think with smug satisfaction, “Suckers!!”

One thing about the car – the car keeps things out, but it also keeps you in. It insulates you, and that’s alright, when you need to be – but how often do we need to be? I’d rather be thrown out into the chaos of the world than snugly shielded from it. (Typed while sitting in a comfortable chair, at a comfortable desk, in a comfortable apartment, at a comfortable temperature, in some comfortable sweatpants..) But you get what I mean. I don’t want to be snug all the time; there’s not a lot to be learned in being snug – I want some action. When I made the decision to start biking, I knew I would have to be biking in the rain. This was something that would often come up when someone tried to suggest to me the folly of selling my car. “What about the rain?” They would say. Well, what about the rain? That would be a problem, if we weren’t living in the 21st century, and didn’t have such beautiful products as entirely waterproof synthetic body suits, but we do. This is what you see the students, the bikers, the motorbikers, wearing, in inclement weather, fully shielded from the elements of Earth like astronauts from the elements of space. I took a trip to Handsman, and got myself a similar suit, after trying on several, and deciding which country, of the pack of body-suit-producing, atrocity-committing countries all vying for my yen, I would give it to – and out of China, Myanmar, and Vietnam, I settled on Vietnam, as while they’re communist, I hadn’t yet heard about any recent atrocity committed by the Vietnamese. In this suit then, I am entirely impervious to whatever the wicked winds of Kumamoto want to blow my way, although large balls of hail would still take me out. When we talk about freedom, again, here is another example. As no one, under normal circumstances, naturally wants to be soaked by the rain, we tend to avoid it, and an umbrella helps with that, but you still have to deal with strong winds, if it is windy, and stepping in puddles, and finding a place for your umbrella, and making sure you don’t forget it, and if you do, making difficult decisions about how to get a new one, or waiting for a break in the rain, or biting the bullet and getting drenched in it. When you have a full body waterproof suit, none of this matters. You don your armor, and out you go, and there your worries end. In fact, what would before have been an annoyance, is now a joy, as it is incredibly joyful to walk about in the pouring rain, without a care in the world, to be completely impervious to it, to be able to laugh at it and revel freely in it. That is freedom, and it strikes me in similarity to that feeling I had on top of the mountain, standing there and looking the blizzard in the face, or in the onsen, finding warmth and moisture in the dry cold of winter – it’s a feeling of turning the tables on the elements, taking them head on, embracing them with open arms, defying them; and you can’t help but come away from such encounters with a little more life in you.

I talked about following genius. I had the thought then, coming back to me, that I should stop using my car. I did some pre-experimentation. I knew that the only real thing that could be a pain for me, without the car, was going to my special needs school, which is about a twenty minute drive from my apartment. Before going fully into the no car life, when I was yet still mulling it over, I had a free Sunday, and so I decided to make the trip then, and see how bearable it was, if it was something I could do twice a month, how long it would take, how sweaty I would get. On that trip, something happened, something that I took as a sign, that really affirmed that this was genius that should be followed to its ultimate ends. On the way to this school, I take a road west, for about fifteen minutes, then I turn south, pass through a neighborhood, go a bit down another street, and I reach the school. At that turn, from going west to south, at around that point, there is an enormous hill. This hill is striking in the same way that Mt. Fuji is striking – this hill is a mini-Fuji, because the land all around it is so flat, and clear. I have always wanted to climb this hill, and I look at it longingly whenever I make the trip. That day, as I came back from biking to the school, I thought, why don’t I climb it now? And climbed it was. I met an old man, who showed me the path to the top, I found a secret lake, I walked along ridges and up and down winding trials, leading me who knew where, but I had no place I particularly needed to be, and could lose myself entirely in the exploration. And when I got back, I thought about this. I had passed by that hill so many times in my car, and had always wanted to climb it, and never did; and I pass by it once on my bike, and it gets climbed. What more needs to be said? I think, for me at least, yet another fault of the car is it restricts spontaneity, rather than increases it. Having a car, you have to find a place to park it. You have to put gas in it and think about the gas in it. You have to get into it and step out of it. You have to turn it off and turn it on. You have to open and close the door. And while they sound like little things, I think all such little things, and especially cumulatively, form a barrier to spontaneity. On the bike, rather, you are encouraged to be spontaneous. You’re in motion, you can park almost anywhere, you can hop and off at a moments notice, nothing has to be turned on or off, you are the gas, you are not bound by streets, or even logic. That logic that keeps you bound to the fastest routes, to the most efficient paths planned out by Google Maps, does not apply on a bike, when you can turn down any road you like, on a whim, because it looks promising, where you can slide through back alleys with ease, change course without hesitation, stop at any moment to get your bearings, and readjust your course, or to go ahead and allow yourself to be lost. So, with Thoreau’s words, to follow my genius, and the climbing of the hill, to encourage me to keep following it, I decided that I would take that step, and go from thinking about giving up the car, to doing so.

I have yet to write about any of those moments where I was glad that I hadn’t biked, except with the climbing of the hill. I haven’t given you any specific examples. I haven’t told you about the impact that I’ve had on others, and I think this is always an interesting thing, when you try things like this, when you make these changes, that you will affect not only your own life, but consequently the lives of the people around you, without you intending to do so at all. I find this happening often as a result of being a pescatarian, and it was happening here, is happening here, too. Lewis, who replied, “Indoor human.” when asked if he was an indoor or outdoor human by my friend Kento sensei, told me two days ago that he biked to get groceries; Emily now wants to buy one, and was asking me this week where I bought my bike and how much it cost. But I want to touch once more on the genius bit, because I think you can see clearly that in this instance, for me it was entirely the right decision to follow it; but how did I know it was genius? I think the true skill does not lie so much in carrying out the genius, because once you begin to carry it out, the events and consequences of it will unfold naturally, as a matter of course. The hard part is discerning what is genius, in the first place, and then choosing to act. I can’t say that I have a real answer for knowing what is genius or what is not, what is a good idea, what is a proper intuition, an inspiration, that should be heeded; but somehow, I knew that this was so. That may just be the magic of genius, that it just comes to us, and if we give it the time, and the consideration, and the conviction, to carry it out, seeing not where it would lead us, and crushing it not in its infancy, giving it fuel, allowing it to light, instead of smothering it out of fear, uncertainty, comfort, laziness, or one of the many other such extinguishers, then it can have the power to take us to new heights, to expand and enrich our lives. All it may take is the simple asking of the question – what is your genius saying to you now? And that may be what gets you on, and if you don’t have an answer, then what will get you on the hunt.

I could say more about my dabbles in public transportation, about the fear in the eyes of the girl sitting behind me on the bus, when I turned around in my seat and started speaking to her, to try and ask her if I had missed my stop or not, and how I had in fact missed my stop, as I discovered as I got off of the bus at the end of the route, at the main transport hub in the city, about how I tried to get on a fancy express train and was politely told to get off, as I didn’t have a ticket, and hadn’t reserved a seat.. but I think I’ve more or less made my point, with one final addition. I mentioned that there were many situations in where I found myself glad that I hadn’t used a car, and none where I wish I had, and here’s one of them. I had been regularly playing soccer with some college students at a college in the city, (Kumamoto city, I realize I keep saying “the city”, and you might be thinking, what city, Steven? What city?) and the school year has ended, and they’ve all graduated. We had our last session, of soccer, sushi, then Fifa (they all wanted to play me, I think I played seven games of Fifa then, nonstop, more tiring than the actual soccer) and then a final going out to dinner. And if I had driven a car, we would have said our final goodbye there. But I hadn’t driven a car – that day, like the last time, I had come into the city by bus (unlike last time, successfully), and for this reason, they gave me a ride home that night. I ended up giving them a tour of my apartment, re-gifting almost all of the alcohol that I had stockpiled through various adventures onto them, talking about our futures, and otherwise having a real, proper, final goodbye. Not that it wouldn’t have been if we had ended things there, in that restaurant parking lot, after the dinner – but it would have been different. It just would have been a different ending, the car ending, and I thought about this too, in the passing days, about how that was yet another situation, that turned out for the better, through not having the car. This, then, would be an example of something that I could not see, when deliberating over whether I should or should not pursue this genius, and I think this is prime example of how, when following your genius, things will happen that you could not have predicted.

Well, I think we’re at the end here. This engine is out of steam! I hope that I’ve convinced you to follow your genius – I will keep following mine. You might be wondering, what will be the end of this car saga? I do still have the car. I think it would be at the dealer’s now if I hadn’t been told that I may be going to Aso to teach again, and if that happens, I then will be forced to own, and use it, out of necessity. But the lessons have been learned, and cannot be unlearned, and even if I go back to a life with a car, it will never be the same.

Update: I’m coming back to this after two days. I wanted the instant gratification, but I thought it’d be better for both of us if I gave it some time to sit and see if any more thoughts popped into my mind afterwards, to be added in. About the car, there isn’t much. I think another interesting point about it is that there was some resistance to this idea, some questioning of it, some “Why would make life harder for yourself?” “What if you regret it?” “Please don’t do it!” and I am glad I ran this idea by my friends because they 1. gave me the idea to do a trial run of the no car life, instead of outright selling it, and 2. they showed me that my idea was solid enough, as I was forced considered the merit of their concerns or arguments related to it, on top of my own, and after that, I still ended up following through. So, even if your genius is met with resistance, and perhaps it always will be, don’t let that stop it!

I want to add one more thing to this post, because in this post I’m trying to share a little insight I feel I’ve had recently, about the following your intuition to good ends, and here I have another small insight, or lesson, that I’ve learned, and don’t know where else I’ll put it, and so here it is. Do you know about the dongle? That little white piece of metal and plastic, that can connect two differing types of ports? My dongle was an AUX to whatever that small charging hole in the iPhone 6 or 7 is called. It’s about an inch long. Well, everyone knows that dongle is a piece of garbage. Such a thing really has no right to exist, but exist it does. It is an incredibly inferior product, by design, being so bendable, and thus vulnerable – but I think it is also probably just made with the lowest possible quality ingredients imaginable, so that it will break as soon as possible, and you will be forced to either waste your money on a new one, or finally out of frustration upgrade your headphones to ones that are not AUX, and match the new port. Until they switch the port on you again, and then you have to get yet another pair of headphones. Soon the port may be a thing of the past, with wireless charging and headphones, so that might not be a concern.. but that doesn’t matter to me at the moment, because I have a pair of headphones, I’ve had a pair of headphones for about 6 years now, and they are an incredible pair of headphones, and I don’t want to stop using them, and so I buy dongles, to connect them to my phone, and after buying the third dongle, I will never buy another dongle again. But the lesson is that, I should never have bought the second dongle, let alone the third, because I knew that they would break, and the problem would never really be solved this way. I complained about the weakness of dongles, as I searched for my third, a few weeks ago, about how stupid it all was, but yet I wanted it now, because I wanted to have my music, and I didn’t want to do the work to find any other way to solve this problem. After my second or third run with my new dongle, after making it about a hundred steps from my apartment, my headphones were filled with a hellish, grating, metallic screaming, the sounds a robot might make in its death throes, and I knew that it was done, and the fact that I was an idiot, confirmed. Putting band-aids over a deep wound will not help it close – at some point, you need stitches. Every time I bought a new dongle, I was just buying a band-aid, and not stitches. This was a poor temporary solution to a problem – it was never a permanent fix. And why bother with temporary solutions, if they will only cost you more time and energy in the long run? If you have a problem, and you have to choose between temporary and permanent solution, unless for the time being you have to choose the temporary, to get to the permanent, then never choose the temporary. That is the lesson I learned from this dongle business, and I’m thinking I might just tape it to my wall, next to my notice that I had gotten a package, that was being held for me by a local shipping company, that I procrastinated on, until one day I finally made the call, and was told, “Huh? That was a month ago. We sent that back.” I will always wonder what was in that package. That slip is a reminder to me, not to procrastinate, and especially not on the receiving of packages, and my dongle will be another reminder.

And now, we are officially finished! Will you ditch your car? Will you follow your genius? I don’t think I mentioned it, but the train line, that goes all the way from the west to the east end of Kyushu, is about a ten minute walk from my apartment, and the bus stop that goes into the city is about a two minute walk. That, with the bike, and having friends, made it significantly less daunting to go completely no car. But, even if you couldn’t go all in, any time you could trade your car in for the bike, or the walk, give it a try, and you might find that you benefit as much as I did.

So.. As they say in the Looney Toons, “That’s all folks!”

じゃあーまた!

“Do you eat squid?” 「イカ、食べられますか?」

My friends.

I hope you are living your best life, and if you’re not, I hope you’re working your way towards it.

I feel obligated to start this post with an apology. I’m sorry. I know that we had a good thing going, some consistency, in the length of my posts. This is why I’m apologizing, because now I’ve gone and written one that is about three times longer. Prior to this, every post had been created in a single, heroic, instantaneous outpouring of spirit – but not this one. As I sat down to write this, time passed, the hour drew late, and I realized that finishing this story in a single sitting would just not be possible. And this distressed me, somewhat. Up until this point, I have never left anything to be come back to and continued the next day, or in a few days, let alone had a work that was pieced together over the span of several sessions, and I think up until this point I had avoided doing this for two reasons, the first being that I was afraid I would lose some consistency, that I would come back to the story having a different feeling or having no idea how to pick it back up again, to find those past threads of thought and start weaving them once more; and the second, that I am a sucker for instant gratification, which is what you get when you start, and complete, something in a single interval of time. I thought about these things, when I realized that this post was going to take more than a single day to complete. At the end of the first day of working on this, I had to end the day knowing that I had not yet finished, and had yet more work to do, and I didn’t like it – but the next day, as I was walking through the school parking lot, J.R.R. Tolkien came to mind, and how he spent a total of seventeen years working on The Lord of the Rings, and I thought, you know, if he can do that.. I can probably spend a few days working on a single post. And there was no other way to do it, as this story just didn’t want to be told in fewer words, and I would not forcibly restrain it. I had also written this one again by hand, meaning it is fully-baked, and so I couldn’t see how long it would be, and am surprised that it’s come out to the length it has (I measure the length by the time WordPress tells me it takes to read my posts). Up until now, they’ve all been at around 15 minutes, and this one’s coming out to 35. And that’s why I’m apologizing! Because I’ve gotten you used to the short and sweet, and am now setting this beast of a post before you, and asking you to read it all. Well, I’m not really asking. You don’t have to read anything I write, obviously, you’re all here by choice. But I want you to feel good about the choice you’ve made, and so I hope you do enjoy it, as long as it is. And I recognize that every word I type in this preface is serving to make an already long story even longer, and so I’ll shut up now, and let you get started..


In the last post, I told you that I had another story for you. About another food that starts with an s. I told you that it was squid. I am not going to do to you what I did with the bowl story, which was to tell you that I had a bowl story, and that I’d tell it to you soon, tell you that it was coming, and to keep putting it off, letting it hang, promising, next time, next time, before eventually conceding that next time was a lie to you and me, and that we both needed to accept that it would be told at an undetermined point in the future, and leave it at that. No, I won’t do that again. That was just as annoying for me as it probably was for you, because I knew that I had made a promise, and the burden of fulfilling it, and the acute awareness that it had not yet been fulfilled, and that each of my subsequent promises became hollower, and flimsier, and the thought of the bowl story started to fill my thoughts, hanging over me and haunting me with visions of an actual bowl over my head.. I won’t make the same mistake. You get the squid story here and now.


It’s also just better to tell it now, while it’s still fresh. In that way, the eating of a squid, and the story about the eating of a squid, are not so different. So, the squid story.. where do we start?

I guess we start with the day. It was Friday. Last Friday. At the time of me writing this, it was last Friday. At the time of typing, it was last last Friday, and incredibly enough, at the time of me posting, it was now last last last Friday. At the time of you reading, it could have been any number of Fridays ago. And none of that really changes anything, does it? I’ll still say it. Friday is a Shoyo day (Shoyo High School), and that means I walk. It takes all but seven minutes to walk to Shoyo High School. On the way there, I go uphill. On the way back, I go down. I make a total of three turns, on this walk, the third being the turn onto Shoyo school grounds. It’s an easy walk. You might imagine, then, that there would not be any need to drive there, and you’re right – yet, for probably the first year of my ALT career, I drove to Shoyo High School. Why? One, I guess, is because I could. When you have a car, you drive places. That’s just how that works. Two, and this was more of an excuse to justify not walking over anything else, is that, on that uphill walk to Shoyo, there are about fifty to one-hundred students, a small student army, marching rank and file along that road; pilgrims making their daily pilgrimage to their temple of learning. By giving up the car, you must become a pilgrim, a priest among the pilgrims. This reason is sufficient to keep at least one of the Shoyo teachers living in my apartment complex, Nagata sensei, and perhaps all, from making the walk to school. “I’d have to walk with the students!” She tells me. There are three other Shoyo teachers in the complex, and, whatever their reasons are, they don’t walk either. I have a fantasy, a mental image that I think would be pretty funny if we played it out, that at least once, one morning, we all met up outside of the building, said, “Morning. You guys ready?” And we all made the pilgrimage together. It would be a spectacle, absolutely. I think we would also build some nice camaraderie. Anyways, horde of students be damned, I started walking, after I had the thought, “Why the hell do I drive?” And it turned out that the decision that thought inspired, the decision to walk, was one of my great decisions. Some dominoes, when you push them over, will knock over one, or a few, maybe a handful of dominoes, as a consequence – and some dominoes will activate Rue-Goldberg machines. This domino was the latter, for the number of interesting things that have happened as a result of my decision to ditch the car were as many as that of taking that first step in the Rue-Goldberg sequence.

Off the top of my head, here’s what I can list. When teachers would ask me how I come to school, a popular question back in the day, I’d tell them, “I walk!” And they would always reply, “You’re so healthy!” This, paired with the fact that I’m munching on a steady diet of nuts, seeds, and raw fruits and vegetables throughout the school day, leads them to think that I am healthy person, and possibly the kin of some small furry mammal or bird. Of course, giving my fellow senseis the impression that I am the epitome of health is great. It is, however, a relatively trivial thing, compared to the number of incredible bug-related discoveries I have made along this walk. You would think that over the course of a seven minute walk through a semi-rural Japanese suburb, there could not be all that many incredible insect-related discoveries to be made; but you would be wrong. On this walk, for example, I saw my first ever ゴマダラカミキリ, that is, a gomadarakamikiri, named after the large white spots that pepper its black back, resembling goma seeds. I saw this enormous black and blue beauty, clambering up one of the tall, thick blades of grass in an undeveloped lot in my neighborhood. The moment I laid eyes on it I froze, whispered “Oh my god..” softly to myself, and ran back to my apartment to get my camera (my good camera – of course I took some precautionary shots with the trusty iPhone). And upon returning, and not seeing it, I was nearly frantic, until at the last moment spotting it trudging around down in the thick bases of the blades. I was a bit late for work that day, but I made up for it by enthusiastically showing anyone who made the mistake of showing me any shimmer of curiosity, any flash of interest in me or my camera that day. “Sensei, I’m so glad you’re here, you’ve got to see this, you must see what I found this morning.” To which the responses were, “Good Steven sensei, good!” (Shota Sensei) “Is it a bug? No, I can’t look.” (Nagata sensei) “Ah, it’s ゴマダラ虫ね.” (gomadaramushi,ne) (Hase sensei). And it was because of this sighting, that when I saw that they had one day cut down the grass in the lot, I was aggrieved, and complained to my neighbor, Tamanaga san, “But what about the kamikiri!”
I also saw a スズメガ (su-zu-meh-ga) (I’m writing this in Japanese because I don’t know the English for it), a brown, feathery, fighter-jet-esque moth, adhered to the sheared dirt wall of the hill that the road cut into, blending in sublimely with a smattering of dying leaves and hanging roots (I don’t say perfectly because I did, after all, see it). And I think the only way I had been able to spot it was that I had now had a trained eye, having had taken in several hungry local boys (voracious, fat, orange and yellow spotted black caterpillars, with sharp, switching tails) and being curious about what they would become, and not having the patience or desire to wait until I could see it for myself, looked up their final form. I ended up raising two different types of caterpillars, last year – and that was an experience that helped to get me through the early days of the corona era, and is a story unto itself. There are several other bug experiences I can name – spotting assassin flies, not knowing at all what they were, only that they were big, menacing, and had white butts, and finding a massive ant den, nested in the side of a vertical, stacked rock wall, with the boundary of the den lined with miniature pink and white flower petals. But, bugs sightings and good impressions aside, there was yet another positive to come out of this seemingly small decision to walk, and it was by far the best – joining the pilgrims.


Every morning, then, unable to section myself off, cloak myself in metal and glass, and dash past them, I was now a part of them, a part of it, that procession – coming up and out of my neighborhood, stepping out onto that perpendicular road, and merging into the flow, joining the uphill march. In the beginning, the students were surprised to see me; so much so that some of them would jump up, put a hand to their chest, and cry out, “Oh, びっくり!” (Surprised!) Although, I suspect this was due less to seeing me, and more to hearing English. The girls in particular are slow walkers, shuffling their feet, carrying on conversations, and I like to keep a brisk pace (I’ve got places to be you know, mainly, the school) and so I would often find myself overtaking them, and tossing out a genki, or sometimes not so genki, “Good morning!” which would so often startle them. Again, whether it was the unexpected sight of Steven sensei, at 8 in the morning, or an unexpected hearing of English in the wild, or the fact that they are shuffling their way to school in a sort of half-dazed stupor, driven by instinct like a zombie to new hunting grounds, and are being shocked back into the world – or a combination of all three (this is probably the answer), I don’t know. Some days, that would be the extent of our interaction, the students’ and I’s; but some days, I would find myself falling into stride with one, or two, or three students, and we would walk together, and have a nice conversation. These have been some of the most relaxed conversations that I have been able to have with the average student. They also give me the chance to connect with students who would otherwise have no engagement with me at all. For most of them, that was a welcome opportunity; but my mind is taking me back to a boy who said the words, “Oh no.” as he saw me and realized I would be walking with him, and talking to him, on the way to school that morning. He was unfortunate enough to be the only one around on the way to school then, and so it happened that he became my buddy for the walk, like it or not, and he didn’t, based on the look on his face and the number of times he would say “Oh, oh no..” after I would ask him a question, or really just say anything at all. That conversation was a struggle for him, and I could actually measure how much of a struggle it was, because he had a habit of repeating my questions, or what he thought were my questions, to himself, in Japanese, which I would understand, and think, “Ah, close!” or “Yikes, not even.” But he tried, which is the only real thing I can ask of any of my students, and I saw him visibly relax when we finally reached the school and parted ways.

One of the most interesting conversations (if you can call it that, and I think you can) was just recently, with a girl I will call Translator Girl. Translator Girl was walking ahead of me, as we were going home, walking slowly, on the other side of the street, and as I neared her I could hear that she was singing. She was completely oblivious to my presence, until I was about right across the street from her, when she noticed me, giving a little squeak and an embarrassed giggle, and putting her hand over her face. I thought that was cute, and I crossed the street and asked, “What are you singing?” And she pulled up the song on YouTube and played it, and sang a bit. I said, “It’s a nice song. Why is he singing about a cat?” (The song was called neko (cat), and the only thing I really understood from it was that the singer thought his friend had become a cat) And Translator Girl holds up a hand and says, “Sumimasen,” and proceeds to type out a lengthy explanation into Google Translate. And I’m standing there thinking, you know, this is fine, song lyrics are difficult to explain and she wants to get it right. She finishes, and holds up the phone, I read it, nod and say, “Oh, ok!” And then I ask another question. And she again says, “Ah, sumimasen,” in a very soft voice, and goes back to the phone. It was the third time she turned to Google Translate that it dawned on me – I was not going to hear this girl speak any words to me other than sumimasen. And so, from that point, until we got to my apartment, as she was walking to her complex just a bit deeper into the neighborhood past mine, we carried on a conversation in this way. Together, taking a few steps, me, asking a question, us, stopping, her, typing out her response into Translate, holding up the phone, me reading it, acknowledging that I’d read it and understood, and us, taking a few more steps. When we finally reached my apartment, I said, “Well, this is my apartment!” We stop, and I wait for her to type out her goodbye. She holds up the phone, and it reads, “Sorry, I’m shy.” And the final message, “But I really enjoyed walking with you today.” Flash forward to the next week. You would not expect a girl who cannot carry a one-on-one conversation (verbally) with her ALT on a walk home from school to be his ally in the classroom, but she was. That week, I had class with 1-4, the fourth class of first years. A difficult class, unresponsive, apathetic, one of the (fortunately) very few classes I have where trying to get them to answer any question or talk to me in any way is like trying to pull teeth; a class where your “Good morning!” Is met with one good morning in response, and the follow up, “How are you today?” with complete silence. When even the customary, conditioned, introductory “How are you today?” is met with silence.. you’re in for a rough time. As the class dragged on, and my 100% answerable, I-know-you-know-the-answer-questions were met with increasingly greater resistance (What is the driving age in Japan? When can you drink alcohol? When can you vote?) there was one girl willing to speak up, and to my surprise, it was Translator Girl. We had bonded on that walk, her and I, and now, in the middle of this unforgiving lesson, she wasn’t going to let it flounder, not too much. She had my back. I was benefitting from that lesson I had learned early on, through my participation in all the different club activities, festivals, and events – good relationships outside of the classroom translate to good relationships inside the classroom. My walks with the students were even inspiring enough to prompt Ms. Shizuku to write, as her comment on a class’s collection of farewell letters to me, “When I met you on my way to school, I was happy.”


The final of the great things that started to happen when I ditched my car, was the fact that I started seeing my neighbors, the Tamanaga clan, much more frequently. I wrote a bit about Tamanaga san before, my first Tamanaga friend, living in the house across the street, posted up on the hill, in front of my apartment complex. He lives there now with his wife. His son, daughter-in-law, and two grandkids, Yuta and Riku, young bucks around the ages of five and seven (I think, I’m not good with kids ages) were all under the same roof, until maybe a year ago, when they had a new house built a little further up the street (you could throw a rock from one house to the other)(or something less dangerous, but still firm enough, like a marshmallow, or a Nerf football). And the household divided, like a cell that has undergone mitosis. Naoko san, the “Momma san” (Japanese people do say this) is often out in the morning, getting ready to take the younger buck, Yuta, to school, at the same time that I leave for Shoyo, so I often pass by them when they’re coming out of the house, or getting into the car. Sometimes I’ll see Yuta sitting in the passenger side car seat, looking down, and I’ll stand in front of the car and wave until he notices me. Sometimes I’ll catch Naoko san and we’ll have a short conversation, and wish each other a good morning, and I’ll tell Yuta to have a good day. All that good neighborly stuff. On the way back, then, I’ll often run into Riku, who will be walking to or from his house or his grandpa’s, Tamanaga san’s, usually wearing that iconic, bright yellow hat that Japanese schoolchildren wear, and I’ll hey, “Hey Riku.” Sometimes he’ll just say hey, and sometimes he’ll tell me a short story, that I either won’t understand, or won’t understand why he’s telling it to me, but I always appreciate it either way. I can understand him a lot better now – I remember our first hangouts, where he would spew forth enthusiastic torrents of totally unintelligible Japanese, and I would turn to Naoko san, or Tamanaga san, and say something along the lines of, “What is this child saying to me?” And they would often respond with, “Wakarimasen.” Even they did not know. I also often bump into Tamanaga san, out and about, and sometimes Tamanaga san Jr, his son. It feels a bit strange to call him Jr, because he’s younger-middle aged and totally built, almost as wide as he is tall. He has the exact same build as his dad, in that way – they’re both solid squares of power. But I don’t know what else to call him, as I don’t know his first name, having forgotten it like almost every other first name that I’ve only been told one time. This was actually causing me some trouble, when I was first getting to know them, because I was calling them all Tamanaga san, and finally Naoko san said to me, when I asked where Tamanaga san was, “Steven, you can’t call us all Tamanga san. It’s confusing. He is Tamanaga san.” And she pointed to Tamanaga senior. I know all the other names, but not the Dad’s, and someday I will learn his too. But for now, he’s Tamanaga Jr. The only member of the Tamanaga squad that I don’t usually see is the Mrs. Tamanaga (Okusan, wife), at least not out in the street. This all means that, on any given day, if I am going to Shoyo that day, there is a very high probability that I will find a Tamanaga on the way. It’s nice to know your neighbors, to be on friendly terms with the people living around you, to know who’s inhabiting these buildings, who’s tending these gardens. It gives the neighborhood some personality. It makes me wonder what it’d be like to live in a small settler town, where everybody knew everybody, where you couldn’t go anywhere without bumping into people you knew, or what it’d be like to live in an old medieval town, taking your goods to the market, passing everyone by. I imagine some of those little interactions would be welcome, and some would be dreaded, but at least you knew who these people were. Compare that to the gargantuan, multistoried apartment complexes, full of hundreds, if not thousands of people, all living in a space of several thousand or hundred thousand square feet, sectioned off into their own little boxes, all, or many of them, strangers. There are many ways of living, many different kinds of human experience. But to get back to it, last Friday (we are now talking about last Friday again, although it was actually two Fridays ago, or depending on when you’re reading this, possibly many Fridays ago, if you care at all) the Wheel of Tamanagas was spun, and this day it landed on Tamanaga Jr.

I told you, the man is thick, a walking slab of muscle, and so it was not surprising to find him that day, walking to Tamanaga san’s place, wearing a T-shirt and shorts, and looking quite comfortable, even though it couldn’t have been more than fifty degrees Fahrenheit out – although it was sunny. I trailed him for a bit, trying to avoid breathing in too much of the smoke coming off of his cigarette, before catching up to him, giving him a nod and a “こんにちは。” He looks up, replies in kind, and then looks back down. Knowing that this is more of an American greeting than a Japanese one, but not knowing how else to initiate a conversation, I followed up with a “Genkidesuka?” (I say this is more of an American greeting than a Japanese one, because it is similar to saying “How are you?” and that’s just not a typical Japanese greeting, although they certainly do say it. A similar point.. Americans often like to end an interaction with “Have a nice day!” And I would often say this, and I still do say it at times. But after I was once met with total confusion by a cashier at a home improvement store, and was laughed at by one of my coworkers, and was told that “Japanese people don’t really say that,” I have learned. My friend tells me though, that, as a foreigner, I can say it and it’s cute – so I still use it.) Tamanaga Jr, to my genkidesuka, while still looking down, replies, “Genki, genki.” It seems that he’s thinking about something, and a moment later, he looks up and over at me, and says to me, “イカ、食べられますか?” “Do you eat squid?” I don’t know why he’s asking me that now, but I do know that I eat squid, and so I say, “Yes, I do eat squid!” To which he replies, “Chotto matte kudasai.” (Wait a minute). He heads back to his house, with me following behind, and invites me in. I’m standing in the entrance space, admiring pictures of the kiddos posing in some traditional Japanese dress, and the most recent of their artistic creations, and soon he comes back, says, “Sorry for making you wait,” and hands me a plastic bag. And this is how I found myself returning from my walk home from Shoyo, that Friday, with a bag containing one squishy, slimy, freshly-caught, football sized squid.

Ok, maybe it wasn’t quite football sized – but it wasn’t much smaller. I actually thought, based on the size and weight, it must have been at least two squids. People often give me things – things that I have to cook, things like daikon, and Roman Broccoli, and bowling ball sized citrus fruits, things that I am immediately intimidated at the sight of and would never buy at the store, and I know the people who give such things to me never realize how stressful it is for me. “Oh you know, you just chop it up, add a little so-and-so, it goes great with so-and-so, just do X for 5 minutes, then some Y for 20, and finish with a little Z, and you’re done! And don’t forget to wrap it in wet paper towel! At least, this is what it sounds like to me, when they’re explaining it, and this is in English. In Japanese.. What? What did you want me to add? What am I supposed to do? And for how long? What is this thing even called? Who even are you? In such situations, nine out of ten times, I will fall back on a tried and true tactic – the re-gift. This is one of the top-tier strategies that I have developed for coping with my life in Japan, and is particularly important if you are living that life as a minimalistic, clean-eating, not-cooking human being. The re-gift is a total win-win-win. The person who gave you the gift is happy, the person you end up re-giving it to is happy, and most importantly, you’re happy. That is, as long as you didn’t have to go to any extraordinary lengths to do the regifting. I tried this strategy out with some wasabi packets I had been coming into. I can’t say it was really regifting, because they weren’t gifts, but rather I had bought them, as they came with the Direx sushi I was fond of buying, along with packets of soy sauce, but those I did use. At first, I never thought anything of it. When I didn’t use a packet, I just would empty it out, clean it, and recycle it. But after doing that a few times, I couldn’t help but feel that it was just wasteful, and that there must be someone in this school who would like to have this wasabi packet – I just had to go through the effort of finding them. I am true to my convictions, and so the next time I had a wasabi packet, instead of washing it down the drain, I took it the teachers, starting with, naturally, the English department. I first tried Goto sensei, my tantoshya, who sits right next to me. If she took it, I wouldn’t even have to stand up to get rid of it. I asked if she wanted some wasabi. She was eating onigiri. (Is not usually paired with wasabi). She declined. “Umm, I don’t really eat wasabi with onigiri.” Then, leaning over, and extending my voice to Kawasaki sensei, at the desk one over from Goto sensei, “Kawasaki sensei, wasabi?” He pulls out a packet of his own. “I’ve already got some, thanks.” I now have to stand. I get up, and walk into the larger office (we’ve separated ourselves as a coronavirus preventative measure). I try Hashimoto sensei. “I’m ok.” Hayashi sensei. “I don’t like wasabi. Too spicy.” Finally, Chestnut Mountain. “I’ve already finished my lunch.” Desperate, and having now exhausted the low-hanging fruit, the English department, I turn over to Sanaoka sensei, the tall guy who didn’t laugh at my Kumamon-falling-off-the-train video, and say, “Sanaoka sensei, how about a wasabi packet?” And he laughs. “No, haha. No, no.” This was significantly more difficult than I imagined it would be, and I was now tempted to consider this a failed endeavor, not worth the time, and that I already tried anyway, and this little wasabi packet was destined for the sink, and subsequently the recycle bin – but then, as I walked my way back across the office, I noticed Fujimoto sensei, and I knew I had found my man. You see, Fujimoto sensei is my kouhai. The kouhai senpai relationship is an integral part of Japanese culture and any school-related Japanese anime. It is complex, and yet, it is simple. Kouhais do what senpais tell them. That simple fact, and the fact that I also hardly ever talk to Fujimoto sensei, meant that the chances of him rejecting my wasabi packet were slim to none, regardless of whether he likes wasabi, is allergic to wasabi, or the food that he was now eating was wasabi friendly or not (it wasn’t). I walked over and up to his side, and announced, “Wasabi for you!” And set the wasabi packet on his desk. He looks down at the packet, and, after taking a moment to realize what is happening, that Steven sensei is at his desk not only talking to him but also giving him a packet of Direx sushi wasabi, he replies, “Oh.. thank you!” And it had been done; the re-gift was a success. This was certainly the greatest length that I’ve ever gone to find a use for something so insignificant, out of principle, and was also the only time that I’ve ever abused the senpai kouhai relationship. After that, I made it much easier on myself – I just set the wasabi packets on Goto sensei’s desk, along with some choice motivational words. “Hey, keep up the good work.” Wasabi. “You’re doing great today.” Wasabi. “You rock.” Wasabi. Realistically, all this really meant was that the wasabi packets were being stockpiled in her desk instead of mine, but that didn’t matter. I had done my job, I had passed the burden, I was now relieved of all the responsibility of ownership that came with that packet. I think that at the time of me writing this, it’s safe to say that there are between four and seven packets of Direx sushi wasabi sitting snugly in the top right corner of her desk, unless she’s thrown them out. And I do think she’s even used one before.
So, what I was getting at here.. when I’m given something, especially something that I don’t want or have no idea what to do with, there is a stress. Tamanaga Jr.’s squid fell into the second category, and on any other day, the acquiring of that squid would have been a crisis for me. That Friday, however, it wasn’t, because of, coincidentally, another mollusk; or rather, a girl with the name of a mollusk, Maimai.


Who is Maimai? Maimai is a friend of my friend Emily, an ALT living in Nishihara, a small village to the south-east of Ozu. Emily and Maimai are best friends, and go on many adventures – in particular, surfing adventures. Being good friends with Emily, it was only a matter of time before I was roped into their adventures, some being fun (camping out on the beach, stuffed toe to head in a tent meant for two, being accused of “manspreading in my sleep”, spending the day being destroyed by giant waves while choking on sea water) – and some not fun (camping out on the beach, trying to spend the freezing night in a tent with no blankets, as I forgot to bring blankets, and that is slowly filling up with water, as I forgot to put that seemingly trivial pyramidal flap called a rain fly on over my tent (“I wonder what this is for?” I at one point asked myself), so I ended up moving to my car, which wasn’t any more comfortable, only less wet, and attempting to sleep, being at regular intervals shocked awake by especially violent shivers, and waking finally to find that the ocean that day is furious, and will not be accepting any surfers who are not willing to drown for their thrill) (I needed at least two weekends to recover from this one).
So, Maimai is adventurous. She is the reason why Emily, and inevitably, I, started going these grueling yet enjoyable weekend camp-surf trips. She is a lover of nature, and the great outdoors, traveling, taiko, and carpentry. She lived and worked in California for a few years, and so, we can actually have lengthy conversations without my brain melting. As the Japanese say, she is very perapera when it comes to English, and a commonly spoken phrase between Emily and I, as we discuss the machinations of the Japanese language and the fascinations of the culture, “We’ll have to ask Maimai.” Her name is actually not Maimai, but Maiko; but I immediately took to calling her Maimai. “Does anyone call you that?” I had asked her, to which she replied, “One of my friends does, but I don’t really like it.” I didn’t know it at the time, but I found out later that maimai is another word for snail, and is made up of two of the same kanji put together, the kanji for dance, 舞舞 In other words, the word for snail is “dance, dance.” Things like this are why I love the Japanese language. Maimai claimed that she doesn’t like being called Maimai, and for awhile her initial response to my use of Maimai would be met with, “Don’t call me that.” But that phased out once she had discovered her retaliation: Sven Sven. Maimai crafted this after Annie, another ALT in the group, living to the east in Aso, the town with the largest active volcano in Japan towering over it (they also have really good milk), and Emily attempted to dub me “Svenny”. It had something to do with my Swedish heritage and the name Sven being a popular Swedish name, and getting a kick out of saying “Sven Svenson”, “Sven”, or “Svenny”; I didn’t understand any of it and I genuinely did not like it, and Maimai picked up on this immediately, and pairing the uncomfortability of Sven with the repetition of Maimai, Sven Sven was born. It has gotten to the point, where, like a dog, or a child, or anything ever that has been named and is aware enough to realize it has a name, I’m now trained to respond to it, automatically, as I did last week, riding my bike home through the center of Ozu, on my home from a day at Ozu High, and I heard “Sven Sven!” called out to me from above. I looked up and saw Maimai standing on a second story balcony, waving with one hand, and holding a hammer with the other. Maimai enjoys carpentry, but she also gets paid to do it, and carpentry was the reason why, along with a proposed exchange (copies of Studio Ghibli movies for Japanese classic novels – she settled on Akutagawa Ryunosuke’s Kumo no Ito) Maimai was coming to visit me, that Friday afternoon. And her coming to visit me, that Friday afternoon, was in turn the reason why I was not, like I would have been on any other day, not in crisis mode, after receiving a slightly-smaller-than-a-football sized squid from Tamanaga Jr. And Maimai did not know it then, but she was my saving grace, my guardian angel, my ace in the hole; because Maimai was going to help me cook this squid.

The rest of this story is essentially a case study in what happens when you give two people of moderate cooking experience and adventurous spirit a squid to cook, and let them go at it. Being the surfer, carpenter, outdoorswoman that she is, I knew that Maimai was not afraid to get her hands dirty – and yet even then I was surprised. Before she had finished replying to my question, “Have you ever cooked a squid before?” (The reply was, “No.”) She had it on the cutting board, already halfway torn apart, body cavity open, and organs spilling everywhere. Before I could finish thinking my next thought, moving on from “How the hell do we start?” to “What the hell do we do with all these guts?” Maimai was saying, “It’s pregnant!” And showing me a hundred tiny golden eggs – like squishy, ovaloid balls of tapioca (my high school girls would not appreciate me making this reference). There are two kinds of people in this world. There are people who, when given a squid to cook, waste no time in tearing it apart; and then there are people who spend more time thinking about how to tear it apart than actually doing it. Typically I am a adherent of the try-it-and-see-what-happens method, but in the face of this squid, not so much, and I suspect that time I dissected a squid in a college Zoology course had something to do with it, for I was trained to look at organisms in a more anatomical sense, than a culinary one. The next thing Maimai shows me, as I’m struggling to collect the copious amount of organs, eggs, and unrecognizables, is the beak, as she hands me a small, black, dense sphere, and says, “The beak!” As I peel back the flesh to get a better look at it, and not a second after I’ve satisfied my curiosity and set it down, I hear Maimai gasp. “すみだ!” (Ink!) I look over and see that, after a particularly aggressive rend, the body cavity is now flooding with black. Our squid is now bleeding ink. Vigorously. As the surgeon cuts, and the blood overflows, so the surgeon requires a quick aide, to clear it out, and give them an unobstructed view. I instantly recognized my role, and I performed it well, moving the squid over underneath the spigot, applying calculated, periodic blasts of cold water, filling up the sink basin with jet black ink. Had we known about the sumi before, we noted, somewhat regretfully, and with all the pragmatism of a surgeon surgeon-assistant team, that we could have saved the ink and used it for calligraphy. But even professionals make mistakes – especially when they’re not professionals, have never even received any training, have never even attempted to do surgery before, let alone on a member of a different species. Maimai was fast, the squid was surprising, and I could hardly keep up, but somehow, at the end of this flurry of slime and dismemberment and evisceration, two things had, like magic, materialized: a cutting board with a heaping mound of tentacles, body flesh, and mantle, and a bowl with everything else; everything else being the hearts (yes, hearts – squids have multiple; three in fact, as genius Google is telling me now – two branchial hearts, on the sides, and one systemic heart, which is central) eggs, gills, stomach.. with the head neatly placed on top, to cap it all off, eyes facing out, scowling eyes that watched us the whole time and said, “If you don’t make me delicious I swear to God..” And I ate those eyes, but not at first. First we had other business to attend to. Sashimi business.

We had a lot of cooking to do, and we did the easiest of it first, which was, no cooking at all. We ate it raw. Needless to say, after all that disembowlment, (there are an amazing number of words related to destruction, and the destruction of an organism) we were quite hungry. As we worked, Maimai had given me a piece to chew on, and even raw, the squid had plenty of flavor, even a bit of sweetness. However, paired with soy sauce and wasabi, like most other raw, savory delicacies, it’s full flavor potential was unleashed. As with all things that achieve such a level of deliciousness, it was gone too soon, and we were on to the next question – what to do with the rest of the body? There were some bits that were too thick to be eaten raw, comfortably, and that we had to find something to do with, something that did now require some culinary skill. As we enjoyed our hard-won sashimi, Maimai had listed off a few possibilities, and they were all impossible, given the fact that, depending on how many days it’s been since I made my last trip to the grocery store, there are anywhere from one and nine different ingredients in my apartment (excluding spices and Tabasco, of course – you know I keep a well stocked spice shelf). All impossible, that is, except for one. I don’t know what the appropriate cooking-related Italian word to use here is, of the myriad cooking-related Italian words, but it was one of those, plus squid. A little tomato, onion, garlic, butter, and tentacles, and bada-bing-bada-boom, we had ourselves a five-star Italian squid dish. A nice glass of red wine would have complemented it well – but we would have had to finish it quickly, because with our next dish it would not have paired as nicely. For the last dish, as far as dishes go, is where things got interesting. The flesh had now been consumed in its entirety, and what was left? Nothing but the naizou. The guts. And the hearts. And the gills, and the eyes, and the eggs, and.. you get it. Throughout this adventure, Maimai had been asking me, “Should we eat all of it?” And my answer was the same, every time. “Mottainai.” No waste. If it can be consumed, it will be. This did not really stem from a desire to eat squid eyeballs, although there was naturally some curiosity there. As I am an inquisitive person, so I am also an inquisitive eater, and it’s not often I get the opportunity to add something really exotic to the list of interesting things I can say I’ve eaten (some things I’d put on that list: sea urchin (bad) chicken brain (not bad) chicken eyes (bad) jellyfish (neutral) raw horse (good with soy sauce) natto (fermented soybeans, worst)). But the desire to waste nothing was not a matter of hunger, or curiosity, as much as of respect. This squid died so that we could live, and I felt that eating it was the only way to pay it proper respect. Eating all of it. Here Maimai’s knowledge of squid-related recipes came up a bit short, offering only one solution – marinate it and make a soup. Marinate is not a word in either of our cooking vocabularies, but even if it was, we did not have the time, or the ingredients, or the will; and so we did what I do with anything that you don’t boil, microwave, blend, or eat raw – we chopped it up and fried it. Now, here’s a culinary tip for you: How do you know when your squid guts are done cooking? When they smell enough not like squid guts that you can stomach eating them. Another tip? As you cook your squid guts, consider (properly) removing your squid’s ink sac. The choice to do so or not comes down to whether you would prefer your finished product to have a nice grey, grainy, charcoal-like glaze and texture, bathing in a pool of black darkness, or not. And here the difference is, surprisingly, mainly an aesthetic one, as the ink doesn’t much change the flavor profile; or at least, that is what your tongue will tell you, even if your brain finds it hard to believe. Squid organs are surprisingly palatable, although they need some good spicing, as without it are quite bland. The eyes may be hit or miss. If you imagine eating a savory, saltier, but just as explosive cherry tomato, and that sounds alright to you, I’d say go for it, and make sure your mouth is closed when you take that first bite.


In the days following this squidly experience, there were a few things that really struck me. One was how willing Maimai had been to dive, hands first, into the world of squid cooking. There was no fear, there was no hesitation, only swift and decisive action, guided by intuition. There was, to use a phrase Maimai has recently adopted, no dilly-dallying. (and she taught me the Japanese, ザボっている, zabottieru) Maimai operated on a modified version of that old truism, regarding doubt, and working: When in doubt, cook it out. The second thing that I found myself left with was the lingering and acute awareness of having just consumed an entire animal, from head to tentacle tip. Think about it – when was the last time you had, by your own hands, butchered an entire animal, opened it up, laid eyes on its fresh, raw organs, reduced it down to little bits, fried it up, and ate it? Prior to this, I would have answered “Never.” to that question. But all of the meat that we eat starts off this way, as a whole being. And to get to the point where it’s a beautiful red patty, or link, or thigh – it has to go through this process. If not by your hand, by another’s. It’s a whole different way of seeing things, to have squid sashimi served to you at a kaitenzushi restaurant, arriving via conveyor belt, appealingly placed on a small round plate, sitting atop a perfectly sized bit of rice, looking trim and beautiful, as you sit and teach your friends about American dad jokes, versus having squid sashimi served to you at home, served by you, after having just dismantled the whole squid, and hacking off those bits of sashimi yourself. Either the way the end result seems to be the same: they’re both food. And yet, one of them feels much more like food than the other. After feasting on any number of my favorite kaitenzushi sushis, of which there are many, I have never felt inclined to say thank you to the sushi, to neither the fish, the rice, the seaweed, nor the mayonnaise (you might be surprised to hear that there is mayonnaise on sushi – Japanese people like mayonnaise) that make it up. But after eating that squid, I felt, and still feel, a total gratitude towards it. The Native Americans, after a successful hunt of their prey, the bison, and the deer, would pray after a kill, and waste none of the animal’s life, because they felt this too. Logically, conceptually, I know that the piece of squid sashimi that adorns my kaitenzushi sushi at one point came from a living, breathing, inking squid; I know that the shrimp in my ebi fillet was at one point several pink, scuttling shrimp. And yet, I really knew nothing about how it got there, what that process entailed, truly, or how it would make me feel, until I had done it myself – and I will now never look at a piece of squid sashimi the same. I have long thought, if I had to raise, catch, kill, and prepare everything that I ate, how would I eat differently? How would it change me? How would people change, if everyone had to, before they could be allowed to eat a certain animal, hunt and kill one themselves, or see it happen? Should you be allowed to gorge yourself on animal flesh, having never had to yourself face all that was necessary for it to arrive at your plate? Would you want to? In the way that the cooking of this squid did, I wonder how I would change through the experience of butchering, let alone hunting and killing, a pig. Imagination, words, facts, even video – none of it is comparable to lived experience.

The third thing that struck me was this: I am living in Japan. Of course, I know I’m living in Japan. I’m reminded of this every day, by the thousands of juicy orange spheres (mikans) at the grocery store, by that enormous active volcano spewing ash off in the distance, by the illiteracy. I know I’m in Japan; but there are still some moments that stand out to me as being even more Japanese, as rising above the daily average of Japanese-ness, as extraordinary, distinct moments, that really grab me by the shoulders and shake me and say, “Hey, hi, hello, it’s me, Japan! Still like me?” The earthquakes are good at this too, because they have the power to do it literally. (We had an earthquake in my area here a week ago that was a 4.2. When it started I was home, and I first thought that there was an enormous truck passing outside of my apartment, or a train, but then I remembered that neither of these things would be possible, and so, “Hey, this is an earthquake!”) The squid was not so much of a shoulder grab moment as an earthquake; or say, last week was, where all of the teachers at Ozu High gathered together to watch a live broadcast of the Prime Minister, Suga Hideyoshi, and the Emperor, Naruhito (who, fun fact, most/many Japanese people don’t know the name of, because they typically refer to him as Tennousama, emperor) leading a.. what do you call it.. a kind of national grieving, a memorial service and a reminder that ten years had passed since the Touhoku earthquake, the 9.0 earthquake and subsequent tsunami that leveled entire cities and triggered the Fukushima meltdown. This was more subtle, but it was another such experience all the same. People just don’t give out fresh squids in Indiana. And while that may seem like a small thing, all of these small things summed up are what equal my life here, and are what make it so interesting to me, and that keep me here, and make me want to stay longer.


The day after our feast, the first thing on my mind was the squid. Maimai and I had wondered how our digestive tracts would handle the squid’s, and mine handled it just fine. I woke up with an empty stomach – the squid was no more. At least, not in the form that you would consider it a squid. It had been eviscerated, macerated, then disintegrated, and was now being absorbed, and re-appropriated, becoming me (or, what was not absorbed, soon to be leaving me). Whether it was destined to be a part of the one who it had fed, or to be recycled back out into the greater ecosystem, where it would all end up eventually, its duty was done; its part was played, and the cycle of life, upheld. For this, along with going the extra mile and giving me a good story, I have to say thank you, squid. I think I also have to say thank you, Maimai, for without you the squid would have brought me considerably more panic, and certainly a less compelling story, and to Tamanaga Jr., for giving me it in the first place. And I think then the only person I’m leaving out is his co-worker, who caught it for us, and thought to give it him.. but if we go down that road, we would also have to thank his friends, who helped him catch it, the captain of the boat he went out on, the makers of said boat, the various crabs and fish that fed the squid..

And the squid story is finished! The end! We did it!

This took a real toll on me. The typing, more so than the writing. I hope you enjoyed it – maybe you’ve been motivated to go out and try cooking up a squid of your own?

For the time being I really have nothing left to say, if you can believe that. I am all written out. But, like I’ve been doing, and want to keep doing, I’d like to leave you with another quote. It just seems like a good way to wrap this business up. I don’t have any quotes related to squids, unfortunately..

This quote is again from Ralph Waldo Emerson (when I first typed this I typed ‘Walph’ and instantly thought of Elmer Fudd). And it’s short, and short is good, right? Easy to remember.

“Power ceases in the instant of repose.”

If I could apply this to the story and make it relevant: “A squid won’t cook itself.”

That’s it! I want to say one more thing – I said that this story wouldn’t be written in less words, and that is true.. but I was encouraged to spend more time working on a piece in part because of all of the good words that I’ve been getting from you all, and without them I don’t know if I would have been so willing to do so. To everyone who’s been reading and enjoying these posts, and has told me so, your words mean a lot to me – and if we ask how much, apparently enough to get me to write almost three times as much as usual. I write with all of you in mind, and it wouldn’t be the same if you weren’t reading it. So thank you!

皆様ありがとうございます!

Until the next! Jya mata ne!

My special secret is: I’m happy 僕の特別な秘密は、僕が嬉しいということです

Howdy ho buckaroos.

This title was inspired by one of my student’s responses on a worksheet I gave them. It’s the end of the year and we’re doing About Me Bingo. The students had to fill out some things about themselves, the basics you know, favorite color, artist, food you like. One of the questions was, “What’s your special secret?” This got some good answers, and I enjoyed reading all of the students special secrets, like “I have an older sister,” and “I don’t like English,” but the one that really tickled me was, “I’m happy.”

And these days, I am happy! The Happy Light is here, the White Knights have made their charge, and the Cruel Mistress is vanquished. Today it was a bright and sunny day. My friends and I were sweating in the sun as we played soccer. The first trees are starting to bloom, the plum trees, and I am blooming with them. They resemble sakura but they bloom earlier. Last year I actually did mistake them for sakura, not knowing any better. As the days grow longer, so my mood is uplifted. It’s amazing how much of a difference a little bit of light can have on your disposition. We are not so different from the plum trees.

There’s a lot going on in my mind these days, and a lot of it is scattered, and is not so much good story material – but I think that enough time has passed and I owe you guys something. Every day that passes I feel a stronger urge to write, and I think that at this point there’s no better way than to just start and see what happens.

I’ll try to tell you some interesting things..

One thing that has been a fixation of mine for some time now is fasting. Like a fly buzzing around my head, it has floated around in my thoughts, always popping up during those periods of time where I’m free to think about whatever I’d like to think about, and my mind is wandering. In the beginning I wasn’t thinking about fasting. I was just doing it. I had gotten a little chubby, had a nice chub-chuberoo going on, and I had pretty much gotten sick of looking at it and talking about how I should do something about it, and so I did. Losing chub is not complicated – I started burning more calories and eating less. This was around November I believe, and I’m sure I also ate less because of the effect that winter has on me. I went from eating a hearty amount of food, as I acquired a habit of eating larger portions as I went through a muscle-building period, because I wanted to look like Captain America, to eating probably half of that, and spending a good deal of time hungry. And after awhile, I noticed that I had started to feel sharper, mentally and physically. I hadn’t given that much more thought beyond, “Hey this is interesting!” until one day, when I was at Shoyo, and I ordered the bento lunch. I used to eat the bento lunch every day at Shoyo. I would give the office 400円 in the morning, and at around 10:30-11am, I would find a big, beautiful bento sitting on my desk. (The hungrier you are, the more beautiful it is. In actuality the palette is a rather lackluster spread of grey-brown-white, not the most visually appealing thing to eat). I stopped eating the bento, partially because it was pretty lackluster, and partially because I was trying to cut down on food. But one day, I came in and had forgotten to bring anything for lunch. I knew I would need to eat something, and so I ordered the bento, and when it came, I did what I always did, like what everyone does, and I ate the whole bento. And why that was significant was because after I ate that I went from having a mind like a razor sharp katana to a should-have-been-thrown-away-three-months-ago disposable razor. I was a souped-up sports car who had just driven over a spike strip. Basically, my mental acuity, along with my productivity, was completely obliterated. And I thought, holy crap, what is actually happening? I used to eat that bento every day! I wondered if I had always felt that way after eating the bento, or if it was just because of the sharp contrast between my two states, going from fasted to stuffed, and it left a lasting impression on me. That was really the moment when I realized that there was something to this.

So, that was my anecdotal evidence. After that, what kept rolling around in my brain was a single sentence, coming from Obama’s “Dreams Of My Father.” After moving to New York, to study at Columbia University, he briefly mentions some of the habits he had adopted during that time. One of those habits was fasting on Sunday. There was no explanation as to why, and that kept coming back to me. Obama’s a smart guy – why’d he do it? That stuck in my brain, and so after this had simmered in my mind long enough, I took a dive and did some research. What I found was pretty interesting.

When I first had that epiphany, the bento-inspired one, I had done a bit of research, but very surface level. I got as far as the words “intermittent fasting” and popular fasts. I got a list of the reputed or empirically supported benefits, I thought, seems good, I’ll keep eating less, and so I did, and that was the extent of it. I knew that it was good, but I didn’t know why. Apparently that wasn’t enough, because fasting continued to stay on my mind, and so last weekend I sat down and I took a deeper dig. Quickly, I found my way to a TedX talk that I believe is about eight years old, by a researcher for the National Institute of Health in the US, named Mark Mattson. This fifteen minute talk was totally fascinating to me. People knew that eating less was good for them as far back as 3800 BC, based on an Ancient Egyptian quote, “Humans live on one-quarter what they eat, and on the other three-quarters lives their doctor.” But what people couldn’t do back then, that they can do now, is understand the biomechanics of why. I won’t say much here – I think it’s worth it to watch the talk – but I’ll say a bit. People have known for some time that restricting calorie intake results in greater longevity. Mark Mattson became interested in fasting, because his primary area of research is age-related neurological diseases, like Parkinson’s and Alzheimer’s, and was looking to fasting as a way to help treat or prevent such diseases. What he found was why fasting does have a significant positive effect on the body and brain. To my understanding, this is why. Your body stores glycogen in the liver, and uses this as a primary energy source. It takes about twelve hours for your body to exhaust this glycogen store; less if you perform rigorous exercise. People who are relatively sedentary and eat three meals a day almost never exhaust this glycogen store. When you do, your body needs a new source of energy, and it turns to ketosis. Maybe you’ve heard of that before, that might be what the keto diet is all about, I haven’t done any research on that. Ketosis is a process where your body turns fat into ketones, and it turns out that ketones are really good for your brain. Ketones are used to produce what are called neurotrophic factors, which are, to my understanding, proteins that stimulate mitochondrial activity in the neurons in the brain. They also stimulate neuron growth, and do good things for your synapses and dendrites (increase the number of connections or increase connection speeds perhaps, I’m not sure exactly). Basically – you get smarter. This is not the only benefit of fasting – another benefit is that it encourages apoptosis, which is programmed cell death, which is where your body kills off and clears out old cells, making room for new ones. Mark Twain wrote, “A little starvation can really do more for the average sick man than can the best medicines and the best doctors.” That may be why! There are other measurable benefits as well, reducing inflammation in the body is another I can think of. Inflammation is a primary cause of cardiovascular disease. Who doesn’t want to reduce a little inflammation in the body?

When I learn about things like this, it just makes me realize that I still have yet so much to learn, that we have so much yet to learn. I just wonder, how much is out there that if I knew about it, it would change the way that I live, now, today? I think about all of the things that are already known, that are already discovered, but are yet undiscovered to me, things that I’d love to know, and have yet to find out.

I have now adopted an intermittent fasting strategy that seemed appealing to me – I’m eating from eleven in the morning to seven at night. I was already not eating breakfast, so this has been easy to do, I just delayed when I started eating by a bit. What’s really interesting is how at first I would find myself so hungry in the mornings, and now, while I do still find myself hungry in the morning, it passes quite quickly, and I can go on without a problem. It seems that our bodies tell us we’re hungry more out of habit than out of true need to eat.

The other things I’ve been thinking about.. I’ve been dabbling in public transportation and I hadn’t shampooed for twelve days, until today, as I got a haircut. I thought about telling Funai san, “Leave off the shampoo,” but in the end I let him suds me up. That’s another thing – the shampoo. Apparently there has been a “no-poo” movement around for a few years. I guess I’m doing that too.

I could keep writing… it’s been an eventful time. I can tell you a little story – there has been a little bit of drama in the prefecture in the past week. On Friday morning, I was at my desk at Shoyo, and I was greeted by a genki older teacher, in his usual genki fashion, saying “O-hayo!” He is the only teacher who greets me with an Ohayo only, as it’s more casual, and the way I understand it is he’s older and he’s earned the right to say Ohayo to whoever he pleases. And this reminds me of a joke that I also learned recently, from Sakamoto sensei, who is also a sensei of great interest. Sakamoto sensei is a kind and caring teacher, but he has that special talent that might be bestowed upon all kind old teachers, where he can put a third of the class to sleep within the first three minutes of class (these are the students who have decided from the beginning that it was nap time) and the next third to sleep by the end (the students who tried valiantly to stick it out, but succumbed along the way). I think only the final third survives with my help, or by having a true love of learning and/or the English language. Sakamoto sensei has a peculiar trait where he will start the class with a greeting that is totally unpredictable in its cadence, intonation, and volume. I have thought long and hard about why this happens and I don’t have an answer. It may just be an uncontrollable outburst of the raw joy he feels at being able to start another English Conversation class. When I first had class with him, this initial proclamation would burst out in such an unexpected and irregular way, but with such enthusiasm, that it was nearly impossible for me not to laugh, and many of the students would. It’s generally a variation of a phrase like, “Good morning everyone, how are you today?” And it would come out in a way such as, “Good morning everyone, how ARE you today?” with the ARE being the climax of a curve of increasing enthusiasm, or the crest of a wave of vocal energy within the sentence. Or perhaps, a “Good morning everyone, how are yoU TODAY?” Starting off seemingly normal, but ending with an explosive finish. What is even harder to catch in writing is the way he will stagger the phrase, on top of the already random surge of energy within the sentence. Comedy is funny because it’s unexpected – Sakamoto’s class greeting is comedy for this reason, coupled with the fact that he is so completely unselfconscious. To all appearances, he does not recognize that he is doing a humorous thing, and the fact that he struggles to read his crowd may be a big part of why so many students fall asleep in his class. But he does mean well, and his heart is certainly in the educating of his students, and he frequently will bring props into class (recently he brought in his new shoes, they were about six different shades of brown, he scored them for about $20) as topics of conversation, or focus on local or global news. Anyways, as we were walking to class, I told Sakamoto sensei a joke I had learned recently, and he chuckled. Then he surprised me by responding with a joke of his own, and here it is: A man says, “Minnasan, Illinois gozaimasu!” He meant to say, “Ohio gozaimasu.” Get it? Let me break it down. Ohio is one of the only states that most Japanese people know, along with New York, California, Texas, and Los Angeles (one of the most given responses when I ask a class to name US states), because ohayo gozaimasu is “good morning” in Japanese, and it sounds like Ohio, so it’s like there’s a state named “Morning.” Minnasan means “everyone”. Minnasan, ohayo gozaimasu is a common way to start a morning class or meeting. Illinois gozaimasu is what you say when you get the state mixed up. You can insert any state, Illinois, Kentucky, Florida – but you’ll have more success if it’s a state the Japanese person you’re telling the joke to knows; otherwise there will only be confusion.

Alright, that was a tangent. Where were we..

I’m at my desk, teacher comes up, says his “Illinois!” Shoot, I mean Ohio. (funny?) He says, “Ohayo!” And I reply with the usual diligent, “Ohayo gozaimasu!” And as that’s usually the end of it, I turn back to my desk – but then I notice, he’s hovering. This is a very rare occurrence. Perhaps only once before he’s stopped to talk to me after the ohayo, after many an ohayo. I turn to him, seeing that he wants to talk. He’s looking down, and I give him a “Genki desuka?” (how are you) and he quickly responds, “Genki.” And I can now see clearly that there is something on his mind. He looks up at me, with a somewhat somber face, and says, “Ima, toraburu.” (Now, there’s trouble.) And of course, whenever someone comes to me talking about trouble, they’re talking about America, and so I immediately reply, “America?” And I’m already steeling myself to have a conversation about the latest American atrocity. He says, “Yes. ALT.” And now I’m really on alert. So there’s been trouble with an American ALT. I’m already thinking of what and who it could be. My mind conjures up a list of names. As far as American ALTs in Kumamoto, I know most of them. I’m thinking, oh boy, do I know them, are they a JET, and what did they do. He tells me it’s big news, on the front page of the Kumamoto newspaper, and he’s got my full interest, and I tell him I don’t know about it. He looks around and asks if anyone has a newspaper, and then tells me he’ll bring me a copy of his, and then leaves me momentarily to my imagination. I realize that I could probably find this online, and so I turn to the computer and search up the Kumamoto newspaper, which I had never thought to look up online before, but will now be checking it frequently, and I found the article, #1 on the ranking of popular articles. I scan the headline, but the kanji are difficult, and I can’t read them. I give the article a click, read it through, and come up with this: he was a guy, he was working at Luther High School (a private Christian school in Kumamoto City), he hadn’t been in Kumamoto for long, and he wasn’t a full time teacher, so he wasn’t a JET, and he had imported 3 grams of something. What that something was, it was now time to find out. I copy and paste the first four kanji of the headline into my dictionary, and I come up with two words: liquid, and marijuana. Yikes.

Right after that, Ohayo/Ohio sensei returns, and shows me the newspaper, and sees that I’ve just looked it up. And then, I didn’t really know what to say. I said, thanks for telling me, I didn’t know him, and it’s a good thing it wasn’t me right! I thought that would get a laugh, because I think it there would be few things I could do that would blow the mind of my coworkers more than be arrested for importing liquid marijuana; but he was taking this all somewhat seriously. Marijuana in Japan is totally a no-go, so this guy really messed up. He will probably go to prison. The only thing I know about Japanese prison is from a conversation between the friend of the dad of the 6-year-old main character in the manga I’m now reading and the main character, when she told him that her dad had banned her from riding her bike because she rode without a license. He said, “It’s good that you didn’t get caught riding without a license, the police would arrest you. Do you know about prison?” and she says, “The place where you eat cold rice every day..” and he says, “Oh, you know about it!”

So that was my drama for the week! I wanted to write a bit about kanji, but I think this is where I’ll wrap it up this time around. We can save that for next time. We have all the time in the world to talk about kanji! Here is the link to Mark Mattson’s TEDx talk. If you’re interested in what I was saying about fasting, you should check this out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UkZAwKoCP8&ab_channel=TEDxTalks

And that’s it! I hope you’re surviving winter and if you haven’t seen the White Knights yet they’ll be there soon! I’ve just finished reading Thoreau’s Walden and.. man. Some books just find you at the right place, at the right time, and this was one. I could write a whole post, a whole series of posts on my takeaways from it. It seems like I found myself quoting almost every page. I can’t give you all of them, but I can give you one.

“Rather than love, than money, than fame, give me truth. I sat at a table where were rich food and wine in abundance, and obsequious attendance, but sincerity and truth were not; and I went away hungry from the inhospitable board.”

(Two updates I’d like to make)

Good article I found yesterday: https://jamesclear.com/good-bad-intermittent-fasting

I was asked how long a fast can be before it’s detrimental to your health, and so I looked that up, mainly out of curiosity (I’m not trying to test that out; 18 hour fasts are long enough) I’m not sure what the exact answer is as far as when fasting is doing more harm than good – it must depend on the person, and when your body starts to break down muscle; but it struck me that in the opening lines of the article, the author is, just like I was, referencing Obama. He brought the big BO in for another reason; he was touching on the power of the fast as a way to reduce decision fatigue; yet another reason to give the fast-life a try! But I wanted to add a little disclaimer: I spoke with my friend Madeleine about intermittent fasting and she brought up a good point that the author also briefly touched on, that women, and specifically menstruating women, may have a different experience when fasting, and possibly not a good one, as it can affect their hormone levels. She mentioned to me that most of the studies that have been done on fasting have not focused on women, and so that would be worth looking into.

Another update: There is one more thing I want to say about Sakamoto sensei. Along with his glorious class greetings, he has another particular habit that’s interested me. Whenever he’s done working for day, before leaving the teachers’ office (the teachers work in a shared, open space) he makes a point of coming over to my desk and saying to me, “Goodbye Steven sensei, I’m leaving for the day!” Of course, the other teachers say goodbye to me, and I say goodbye to them, but unless I catch them on the way out, or in the hall, it’s not a personal goodbye, but rather a communal goodbye, an announcement to the entire office. Sakamoto sensei goes out of his way to give me a personal goodbye, at the end of each day. And I quite like that. Only Sakamoto sensei does this, and I think this act is a Sakamoto specialty.. but now that I think about, it could also be because literally no one else leaves earlier than I do. This is something I often feel very guilty about, my early leaving time. It’s hard not to feel guilty as I look out across the sea of hardworking teachers and give my “otsukaresamadesu!” (this is often translated to ‘thank you for your hard work’, and that’s more or less accurate enough) and they respond in kind, and I know that they will all be there for possibly several more hours, grading their papers, holding their meetings, while I am a free man, walking my five minute walk home, making myself a hot bowl of delicious soba, putting my feet up, going for a leisurely run, cracking into a good book. If any of them then, at that moment, think to themselves, as they give their otsukaresamadesu in reply, “Oh Steven sensei, leaving so soon! You must be tired after your long day of bingo and preventing students from getting any work done during cleaning time!” I have no defense. The life of the ALT is a blessed one indeed. My close friend Matsunaga sensei assures me that no one despises me for it – I hope that’s true. It’s probably true. Whether they do despise me or not, Sakamoto sensei certainly doesn’t.

One day, on a day where I left not soon after him, I thought, “I don’t do this for anybody. It makes me happy. It will probably make other senseis happy. I should give it a try.” And I hesitated for a moment, as I was struck with a counter-thought, “Ah, it’s not worth bothering anyone over. You’ve said your otsukaresamadesu; you’re a free man.” But after I had taken a few steps past that sliding office door, I wavered again, and Sakamoto sensei’s influence won out. Someone was getting a goodbye. I walked into the adjoining office, up to Matsuzaki sensei’s office, like I have many times before, to ask about a lesson plan, or to tell her thank you for a dekopon (delicious sour orange), or try out a new joke, or ask a Japanese question – but this time, I just said, “Hey. I’m going home! Have a nice night!” And she was happy!

オオカミと白い騎士 Wolves and White Knights

Major Update: This post was written in the winter of 2020. I have just passed through the winter of 2021/2022 almost entirely unscathed. Kept my stride the whole time. I wrote in this post that I would have to live with SAD my whole life. But I have this time around made an incredible discovery, and that is light therapy. By blasting 10000 lux of light into my eyes every morning this winter I was able to get the light that my body needs so desperately in the winter, artificially, and it made a huge difference. I used a product called Luminettes, and would highly recommend them to anyone struggling with SAD, or who just feels that they could use a boost to their energy levels, or struggles with waking up. They have been truly life-changing for me. If you are SAD, do not hesitate to bring light therapy into your life in some form!

For the one seeking redemption for their cursed soul, there is the church. For the one seeking water to cure their parched lips in the waterless desert, there is oasis. And for the one searching for life in the middle of a bleak and desolate winter, there is onsen.

I’ve been in a strange, tense state.
I blame it on the winter.

I’ve been unable to relax, unable to unwind, spending every minute striving, enduring, or otherwise holding myself hostage to a certain strictness, and for what purpose, simply because I can’t find it in myself to have any “wasted time”, since I’m not doing what I want to do, even though I haven’t the slightest idea what I want to do really is. I only have a vague, ceaseless, unyielding dissatisfaction, and my answer to it seems to be spending every ounce of my dissatisfied energy on anything that I could consider to be concretely productive, that I can feel justified about doing, and I’m starting to wonder if perhaps I’m getting some kind of masochistic satisfaction out of denying myself any pleasure, or perhaps I’m just angry that nothing seems to be bringing me pleasure, or satisfaction, or if it would, it’s for the wrong reasons. At any rate, although I haven’t had much fun this winter, I can say that my Japanese, as a consequence of this self-imposed period of monasticism, has improved tremendously.


Yesterday, I bought a book, titled “Wolves and Wild Dogs”, replete with full-page graphics of lean, menacing, sharp-toothed hunters, pulling down boars and bulls alike, and I think that what may have drawn me to this book was that there was something in those images, of the shocking, wet white fur of the Arctic wolf, artfully bounding an ice floe, of the matted white and grey, brown-tinged Eurasian wolves, with their piercing gazes, posing boldly out in the frigid tundras and snowscapes, something in them stirred up something in me, and maybe I felt that I too, was like these wolves; gaunt, hungry, hunting.

The alternative to this mindset, for me, may be depression, and that I won’t do.


Again, I blame this on the winter. I have no doubt that I am a fortunate benefactor of that aptly named illness, SAD, seasonal affective disorder. It’s something I’ll never escape, only something that I will learn to live with, considering most places bar the equator have seasons, and one of those seasons will be Winter, that cruel, grey mistress.

If it were possible to do so, I would wholeheartedly like to step into the ring with Winter, and take it down, dominate it, physically express my pent-up disgust and dislike of it, as relief for me, and punishment for it. But Winter I cannot dominate. And Winter I cannot escape. And so, I can only defy.


While Winter is crushing in its oppression, there is yet a place where she holds no power, and that place is the onsen. What everything Winter is, the onsen is her antithesis. It is the only place where one can go to escape the iron chains of chill, the smothering blanket of unyielding and endless grey, the savage spell of flesh-cracking aridity. It is sacred ground, the onsen, and from the minute you step into its domain, you are freed like a citizen of East Germany taking their first step across that dividing line. Winter, be damned! you’re free to declare, as you brazenly strip off your armor, and stride forth, naked, utterly exposed, something that is completely unthinkable, could not be tolerated by the cruel Mistress, but again, this is not her domain, and it must spite her to no end, knowing that all her hard work is being in an instant undone; for the moment one steps into that steaming, sacred bathhouse, one is restored, and the icy grip of Winter’s clawed hand, shattered and melted, dissolved and replaced with a vigorous, shrouded aura of vitality, of life.


It was not in the summer that I understood onsen’s power. For in the summer, one has an altogether different, much inferior enemy, the eternal and omnipotent humidity, and a steaming hot bathhouse doesn’t do much in that battle. But against Winter, onsen is an impregnable fortress, one that the enemy, try with all her might, cannot take, one that undoubtedly frustrates and infuriates her, as her foes, her oppressed subjects, return to it again and again, to be protected and restored, re-equipped and reinvigorated, given new life to continue the fight.

If only I had an onsen closer to me, that I could seek its splendid shelter every night! Were I a wolf, then the feeling that takes hold of me when I walk into that onsen must be akin the feeling a wolf has of securing a hard-won kill. For they are both a matter of freedom from oppressors. Freedom from that sharp, aching, gnawing oppressor, hunger, for the wolf, and freedom from that silent, looming desolation, Winter, for me.


There was one other place, one other time, when I have felt in full defiance, stood in absolute insolence of Winter. On top of a mountain, fully equipped for battle, with a slicing whirlwind whipping about me, blasting my eyes and howling my ears, with the monochrome palette of white earth, black rock, and grey void before me, I could then shout, Winter, you are nothing to me. And in that moment, it was absolute truth. I could look her right in the face and lay down a direct challenge, and take a resolute stand; I could fight, on my own terms, a direct fight. I could step into the ring with her, for once, or so I felt. But this was me, trying to dictate the terms of our engagement, and Winter smartly declined them. No, we fight on her terms, and it is not a fight that she will have decided by a single, all-forces-mustered mountaintop brawl; it is a fight to be won through endurance, through enduring a series of grinding skirmishes, attempts at gradually whittling, crushing down the main forces into nothingness, occurring over a period of hours, days, weeks, months. Or, like the garrison of a castle town, too strong or too costly to be overpowered, who has found themselves surrounded and under siege, by a vastly superior force, and who has no choice but to endure, to hold out, to send out the messengers and pray that reinforcements come. But unlike many of the answers to the prayers of the inhabitants in a besieged city, reinforcement from Winter is certain. There is no doubt that it will come; the unfailing Spring. Like a thousand glittering steel-clad knights, astride their gallant white horses, coming up over the hill and into full view of all, radiant in the shining sun, Spring will come to strike fear into the heart of the fiend Winter, and recognizing that her attempted conquest is at its end, she will draw off, and the siege will be broken, and the people, liberated.

The white knights are close. I can feel the warmth of their horses’ exhalations in these new, daring, spells of sunlight and warmth. I know their arrival must be soon, I can count it in the passing of the days. The people are ready for liberation! They hold the image, the soon-to-come sight of hooves trampling over the hill, high in their consciousness, lighting a fire in their souls, raising their clenched fists to the sky, crying out, Come, O’ Glorious Knights, Come!

(I am now reading Moby Dick. Clearly Herman is rubbing off on me. It’s a good book. At this moment I would rather be cooped up in the quarters of a whaling ship in the middle of the ocean than in an apartment in Ozu Town. Although as I type that now, I imagine that it’s at least warm and sunny out on the sea – but when Ishmael and his crew embark on their whaling adventure, it’s the middle of winter. Which is quite fitting, isn’t it.)

(This is entirely unrelated, but if you are as blind as I am, do not buy clear glasses. Can’t find them when you set them down.)

(Happy New Year to everyone, we will have a great 2021!)

The Bowl Story – At long last, and fully-baked 茶碗話

From The Future, A Preview: This story is about my buying a bowl from a local noodle shop. I use this bowl every day that I am home. I eat everything out of this bowl. It is a big bowl in my life. This is the story of how I came to acquire this magnificent bowl.

Alright. We’re back.

Yes, it’s finally here. What you’ve all been waiting for. Maybe you thought it would never come. But it’s here. The bowl story.

Let’s go.

Right off the bat, I have to tell you. For this post, I’m trying something new, which is why it feels weird to be calling this a post. I’m writing this post out entirely by hand, instead of typing it out first, as I usually do. I’m doing this because of something that our good man Barack Obama said, when he was talking about how he writes everything out on legal pads (his medium of choice – for me, it’s scrap paper that I’ve accumulated at the school and taken home, failed or overprinted copies of worksheets and whatnot). He writes first, he says, because it helps him to avoid “half-baked thoughts.” That stuck with me, and as I don’t want to be writing half-baked thoughts, and posting half-baked posts, I thought I’d try doing it Obama style, this time. Although, if blog posts are anything like cookies, half-baked may just be best.

Without further ado, then, let’s get into the bowl story.

This story is really about a bowl. I eat out of this bowl every day, usually several times a day. I have four bowls. One I made, two I inherited, and one I bought, and it’s the bought bowl that this story is about.

The story takes places many months ago. It was the day that James, the Ubuyama JET, was leaving Kumamoto. He has since been succeeded by another James, from Australia, who I had met for the first time on Christmas Eve, at our small Christmas party. He’s from the Gold Coast, is allergic to nuts, and raw strawberries, and tomatoes, had never seen snow before coming to Kumamoto, has a different pronunciation for merry, Mary, and marry. He comes from an area of about 800,000, to a town of, what, several thousand at most. His new house is surrounded by trees, with only two neighboring houses, where the school administrators stay when they don’t want to go back to their real homes. His closest grocery store is about 20 minutes away. His car has immediately failed him. The engine light came on, and when he got it checked out by a mechanic, the mechanic plugged his computer into the car and said, “Well I’ve never seen this before!” Which is always what you want to hear your mechanic say. He will probably have to buy a new car. So Australian James is having a nice welcome to Kumamoto experience. We did try to give him a proper welcoming, and show him a good time, American Christmas style, and he tried snickerdoodles and cinnamon rolls for the first time. I asked my friend Ryoka chan if she had had cinnamon rolls before and she said, “Yes, of course. Why?” And I told her that my new friend James hadn’t, and she was shocked. Her words: “What? How does this happen?” Which is a great question that I will ask James about the next time I see him – how and why are Australians not eating cinnamon rolls.

At the party, we played a round of rock-paper-scissors. That is, we played the American version. Now, you may be surprised to hear this, but there are other versions of rock-paper-scissors. Other variants. The Japanese have two. They have the Japanese version, which is jyan-ken-pon, and then they have their English version, which is rock-scissors-paper. For me, who’s spent my whole life playing it rock-paper-scissors, who has known nothing else, this just feels wrong. Australian James (I think we’ve found our nickname here. Australian James has a nice ring to it. Like Indiana Jones. Who is known in Japan as Indy Jones. I discovered this when I was telling my classes that I was from Indiana, which unsurprisingly almost no one knows about, because it’s not Texas, New York, Florida, Hawaii, or one of those big cities in California, and when I would say, do you guys know Indiana Jones, they would stare at me blankly, and then I would sing the theme song, and then they would say, “Indy Jones!!”) Australian James taught us yet another way, the Australian way, which is paper-scissors-rock. Somehow this one is more palatable to me. I think I don’t like ending on paper. I’m writing about this because when we told James about the other American version, rock-paper-scissors-shoot! He said, “Yep, that’s just like Americans.”

Annie, Emily, and I were taking American James out to lunch, before his flight to Tokyo. He had taken a new job in Saitama, teaching kindergarteners. This was last April, I believe. Annie gave James a ride to the Kumamoto airport, which is a ten or fifteen minute drive from my place in Ozu, and so we had lunch in Ozu, at a place that Emily’s predecessor (the ALT before Emily, in the JET world we call them predecessors; some people call them ‘preds’, but the first time I heard that I immediately thought, ‘predator’, so it hasn’t really caught on with me) had taken her to before he left. This place is よも麵 (yomomen), a small, unassuming local noodle shop posted up next to the Ozu public library.

Our squad shows up at about 2 pm on a Sunday. We walk in, are greeted, and directed towards to ticket vending machine on our left. This machine is frequently found in noodle shops. They will take your order and your money, and issue a ticket in return, that details your order, that you then give to the staff. I really enjoy these ticket machines. So we turned to this particular ticket machine (I’m now wondering what this thing is actually called in Japanese – I know vending machine is 自動販売機, jidouhanbaiki, or 自販機, jihanki, for short) and started to peruse the menu. At this time, I took it upon myself to read what was written on each of the buttons, and explain the meaning, to my friends, who are all at least as Japanese savvy as I am, James much more so, and so they could quickly point out all my errors. “See here, these are the hot noodles. This means hot. And these are the cold noodles. That means cold. And these are the happiness noodles. This means happine-” “Those are spicy noodles.” And here, in my defense, was a mistake that anyone could have made. The kanji for happiness and spicy are dangerously similar, as is the case with many kanji. Here’s happiness – 幸い、and here’s spicy – 辛い. Tricky, right. And here’s two more tricky ones – 士 (samurai)土 (ground). And then there’s 末 (end) and 未 (not yet). I guess this is what happens when you have tens of thousands of these things. There’s just gonna have to be some trickery.

I do like the idea of happiness noodles and I think someone should be selling them.

So anyways, after reading almost every label on the machine, mainly to myself, as the friends stopped listening awhile ago, it was my turn to order. I had decided that for me, I didn’t need to know what I was ordering – I just needed to know the price. I was incredibly hungry, and so I just wanted max food, and at a noodle place, this means whatever is the most expensive. So I found the most expensive option, all the way down at the bottom right, put in my money, pushed the button, and got my ticket. I handed it to the nice looking store owner, a younger-middle-aged woman, and sat down at the end of the row. And so this was the beginning of what would become an unusually eventful restaurant experience.

It turned out that out of all of the tickets, I should have read mine, because right after sitting down, the woman came up to me and said, hesitatingly, and in good English, “Um.. Excuse me, but, this is takeout. Do you want takeout?” My friends are amused. I look at the ticket, and it says, お持ち帰り, omochikaeri (literally meaning, “take home”. It’s definitely takeout. I tell her that I want to eat in the restaurant, and that I chose this because I was really hungry, and it was the most expensive thing on the menu. She understands, and asks me if I want hot or cold noodles. I think about it for a moment, and tell her, cold. She gives me some money back. She turns and starts to walk away, when I suddenly remember to slip in a, “肉なし、できますか?” Nikunashi, dekimasuka? Can you make it without meat? And she turns to me, in confusion. After a moment, she replies. “But, this is a basashi restaurant..”

I’ve mentioned this before, about how every prefecture, even every town, has a specialty, or multiple specialties. Oita has the toriten that I told you about (the rare chicken), and it has yuzu, a green citrus fruit, and Kumamoto has ikinari dango, and basashi. Among other things. Basashi is horse meat. They eat it raw and they eat it cooked. I’ve had it both ways and cooked is definitely better. Being a specialty, you don’t eat basashi often, and you can’t just get it anywhere. Most people usually only eat it for New Years. It’s a delicacy, you could say. So you can imagine what this woman is thinking, when this guy walks in here, to her specialty basashi restaurant, and tells her, leave out the basashi, and this after ordering the most expensive thing on the menu without reading it, because he’s hungry. Whatever she was thinking in that moment, she had no problem accommodating me, and after confirming that I was fully aware of what I was asking of her, she set off to make it. So, our relationship was already off to a fun start, her and I’s.

Now my friends and I are sitting, talking, waiting for the food, and after a few minutes, Annie’s bowl comes. I could say that Annie’s noodles came, but in that moment, the noodles were the farthest thing from my mind. What was on my mind, then, was not the noodles, but the bowl, because the second that I had laid eyes on that bowl, I was struck with a thought, and the thought was this – That is a really nice bowl. On reflection, I realized that I have never been struck by a bowl in this way. I wonder if I ever will again. But this bowl, as soon as I saw it, I was aware of it, it’s quality, it’s shape. To me, it looked just like the shell of a conch snail, like the queen conch I had spent some time working with on my study abroad in Belize. It was large and layered and spiraling. It was a nice bowl. And I comment on this to my friends. “That’s a nice bowl!” I say. They look at it, and give some slight nods of agreement, a pretty muted response. As Annie goes in for the first slurp, and I’m still watching it. I say to them, “It looks just like a snail’s shell!” Annie looks at it one more time. “Yeah..!” She says, noncommittally. It’s clear that I’m the only one so moved by this bowl, but it does not frustrate me. I think more about the bowl. How I’ve never felt this way about a bowl. It is a fine piece of craftsmanship. Where did it come from? Custom made? Did they make it themselves? My bowl comes. I then note the size – it’s a sizeable bowl, larger than any of mine. A great size. As I’m eating, I make yet another comment to my friends. “This is such a nice bowl!” And then I added, half-jokingly, “I wonder if they’ll sell it to me!” And Annie replies, “You should try!” And at first, it wasn’t a serious thought, not entirely. But after her response, I realized – I should try. This bowl could be mine, and all I have to do is ask. The shopkeeper must already think I’m somewhat ridiculous. I would only be living up to the first impression I’d created for myself, by straight-up asking her if I could buy this bowl. I have nothing to lose, and a bowl to gain. And so, the next time she walked by, I caught her attention. “Excuse me..” “Yes?” “This is a really nice bowl. I was wondering, uh.. can I buy it?” My friends are now laughing, but I’m not – I’m completely serious. The shopkeeper is unsure what to say. She thinks about it for a moment. “Well, I’ve never sold a bowl before.. and they’re all used. Is that ok?” I reply, “No problem.” She thinks for another second. “Ok,” she says. “Just a moment.” She goes into the back of the store.

I am surprised. It’s farther than I thought I’d get. I turn to my friends. She’s going to sell me the bowl! And now the question is forming in my mind. What will I pay for this bowl? What is my maximum? What can she get me for? I try to come up with a good number, if she asks me for a price. I want the bowl. Clearly, I am moved by it. I am impressed with the quality, the design. I am also not a man who knows anything about pottery or bowl-making, and so I have no idea what the real worth of this bowl is. 1000円?4000円? I can’t tell, but I settle on 2000 being my maximum (that’s about $20), although I probably would go for 2500, if it came to it. If she asks me to give a price, I don’t want to offend her, either. If I go too low, maybe she’ll think I’m not even worthy of having the bowl after all. I’m not trying to rip her off – I want to give her a good price for the bowl. I’m thinking about these things when she comes out from the back and walks over to me. “Ok,” She says. “I have a bowl. It’s used. You’re ok with that?” I say again yes, and then I ask the question. “How much?” Hoping she doesn’t have me name a price. Wondering if I’d really hold to my maximum. She thinks for a moment, then says, tentatively, “Mmm, 500円?” And I couldn’t believe it. “Really?” I said. For that price, I’d buy five, ten of these babies. I almost told her then that I’d pay more for it, and part of me felt like I really should give her more for such a magnificent bowl.. but I said nothing more than an emphatic, “Yes!”

For having never sold a bowl before, she knew how to wrap it. I walked out of there with my new bowl, bubble-wrapped and encased in cardboard, feeling like a brand new man. As we left, I said my many arigatougozaimasu, and promised that I’d be back. Bowl aside, the noodles were incredible. And I’ve since been back, and I made sure to thank her again for the bowl, and to tell her that I use it every day. I think like me she must have a fond memory of that day, because it can’t be often that one of her customers orders takeout without wanting takeout, requests basashi-less noodles, and asks to buy a bowl, all in the same visit. I told Mr. Parker Junior about the bowl, and the story, and when he finally got to see it, I said “What do you think?” And I don’t think he was too impressed with it. But whether it impresses anyone else or not, that doesn’t matter. It will always be a special bowl for me, not just because it is functionally and aesthetically flawless, but because it also has something else, something better: a story.

So, that’s the end of the bowl story. It came out to be about eight pages of fully baked thoughts. I feel like a weight has been lifted off my shoulders. This is a significant moment, an achievement, a milestone in this blog’s history. The day the bowl story was finally told!

I’ve already written so much. I wanted to talk a bit about the clothes. I don’t want to write much now. My hand is cramping. For now, I’ll just say this. I am investigating. This is a complex issue. I’ve since bought a sweater and a pair of pants. Expensive, somewhat. Made in Japan. The pants were 100% cotton. Where does the cotton come from? The sweater was 66% synthetic fiber. On synthetic fibers – 35% of the microplastics in the ocean come from synthetic textiles (according to a report from the International Union for Conservation of Nature). We absorb toxins from these textiles through our skin. Not good stuff. There is a lot to consider. I also bought some secondhand clothes. Did you know that only 10% of the clothing in secondhand stores is sold (as of 2015)? I’m starting to acquire a lot of little facts like this.

Anyways, that’s it for this post. It’s the holidays! Ho ho ho! I should be writing about Japanese Christmas. I can sum this up in a single paragraph. They like Kentucky Christmas (ordering KFC takeout on Christmas). Last Christmas and All I Want For Christmas Is You are the two most popular Christmas songs here. Japanese snowmen have two balls in their body. None of my students know the name of the reindeer with the shiny red nose. They also don’t know that Santa lives in the North Pole, or that he’s married. Most of them don’t know that bad children get coal for Christmas. Some of them know that people give Santa milk and cookies. Some of them know that the toys are made by elves. (When I pose this question to my students, “Who makes the toys for Santa?” I often get the answer, “Small human.”) Only kids get presents, in Japan, and the parents usually put the presents on their pillows, even when they have a Christmas tree. Some people put up lights and decorations on their houses, but not most. They do not know about gingerbread houses or gingerbread cookies. They do know about stockings, and snowball fights. I have told my students that they should get presents for their parents for Christmas, and I don’t think anyone is going to take me up on that suggestion. Home Alone is popular. I guess that’s a Christmas movie? I didn’t know that. I’m not a movie guy. I have surprised more than a few Japanese people by telling them that I haven’t seen Back To The Future.

Ok, this is the end for real. I hope you had a Merry Christmas and are gearing up for a fantastic New Year. Happy Holidays, and unless the hot fire of inspiration strikes me before then, see you in 2021!

Part 2 – The Fall (Destruction of the Back, moving on with life, chilblains, Kappas) 背中の破壊

Howdy ho buckaroos.

I think about you guys. That’s really why I’m writing this post right now. As opposed to say, in a week, or a month from now, when I might finally get around to writing because I feel worked up about something and want to spin another story. But this time, I’m writing because I feel a bit guilty, I suppose, and because with time passing, there will be no difference in the outcome of the post regarding “The Fall,” and so I need to just get on with it. I also think I should stop making you guys so many promises about future stories, but maybe just for my sake it’s a good way to keep me accountable, and not let too much time pass between posts.

So, I promised you a part 2, and here we go! (Don’t ask me about the bowl story, one thing at a time now.)

The Fall. I tried to write about this twice, actually, and each time I sat down and wrote a few hundred words or so, attempting to craft an epic, full of irony and intrigue and life lessons and cultural education and yada yada, and both times it just wasn’t working. And I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s just not going to work, that way, and all that really needs to be said is this: I threw out my back while playing in the sensei handball tournament. And there you go. Throwing out your back sucks. I couldn’t move for two days without going, “Ohhh!!” or “Ah!!!” And the people around me would turn to me in surprise and concern. Almost every sensei I knew was in the building that day, because out of the four schools that I teach at, three were there, and so they all bore witness to my thrown back. The senseis who weren’t there, of course, still found out about it, because someone felt the need to announce it at the all-hands meeting (at least at Shoyo), or they had a spouse who was playing (at Kuroishibaru) and so all day I had teachers who weren’t even at the handball coming up to me and saying, “Your back.. ok?” And finally I asked Nakamura sensei, who is a charming home economics teacher, how did she know about it, and she told me it was announced at their morning meeting, I guess as a heads up, so that no one expected any piggyback rides to class, or wanted to have a quick passing period wrestling match. I was treated very well by all teachers, and I do feel extremely lucky to have such a supportive group of people around me. Everyone was bringing me treats, asking me how I was, telling me their personal remedies for thrown back (in Japanese, ぎっくり腰 (gikkurigoshi, another word I will never forget, like shorui, the special papers), and sympathizing with me. Last year, the handball tournament was a moment of peaking for me, scoring many goals, and having a good time bonding with the teachers, and demonstrating my worth, physically, winning the ganbaru trophy in the end (remember this word?). This year, I spent almost all of it on the floor, shivering, surrounded by small children, who became my good friends, by the end of the day, and I thought, that’s really just fitting given how totally wacky this year has been, compared to my last year. It’s hard to imagine that I’m still in the same place, at the same job, as I was just a year ago, because it feels so different, but I know everyone is going through this, the corona days, and we just deal with it how we do. And going on about the shivering on the floor, the floor was ice cold, I may as well have been laying on a sheet of ice, and I was the only person who was stupid enough to wear shorts that day, which I noticed when we took to the floor to warmup, and I have to admit I felt a little superior, like a, well I’m just strong! type feeling, although it was really just because I only have a single pair of sweatpants and I had run in them several times already, and they were not clean in any way, and so I just thought I’d bear it out in shorts, but that turned out to be the wrong move, as I spent the rest of this day on an ice cold floor. And with each shiver, I would groan with pain. And for the next several days, the moment before every sneeze was a moment of terror, and the sneeze itself, pain. But, what I wanted to get back to again was this, that the senseis are incredibly considerate, and they took pity on the poor American that they had inherited, and saw how he shivered, in his pair of shorts, and found all the spare warm things that they had, and by the end of the day he was clothed in Fukukoucho sensei’s jacket, Kawaguchi sensei’s pants, and Nishida sensei’s jacket and blanket.

I had made friends with several small children that day, who were one of the sensei’s kids, and who continually brought me treats. The first time they brought me treats, they approached me very cautiously, like one might approach a starving, wounded bear, and placed the treats at a distance where I could reach them if I just stretched out for them, coming no closer. I asked the youngest girl, who had just turned five, what her name was, and her mom told her to say her name, and she says, “Yuna.” And then I said, “Thank you Miss Yuna.” And her mom whispered to her, “Say you’re welcome!” And the girl just shook her head. But the third time that they came to me, she looked at me, summoning a bit more courage, and smiled playfully, and said to me, “Do you want to play tag?” And this just blew my mind. I could only laugh. It was so innocent. I was laying on my stomach, because it was only slightly more comfortable than being on my back, and I was craning to look up at her, and I felt like some sort of enormous turtle, washed up on land, hardly able to move, and as I am craning up laying belly down on this freezing floor, she asked me if I wanted to play tag. What she really asked me was, “Onigokoshitai?” Which is, “Do you want to play Oni Gokko?” Which is the Japanese version of tag, where someone is the oni (demon) and the other kids run from the oni. And after a second of just wondering how to respond to her, I said, “Yes, but I am not a very strong oni.”

After the tournament Nishida sensei did take me to a massage. It was the first massage I’ve ever had. Professionally. It was 1500円 for 30 minutes, which is crazy, right? So cheap. I’ve been meaning to go back, but I can’t seem to justify it.

That’s about everything I wanted to say with the destruction of the back, “The Fall.” I have to say that I do feel like it was a positive thing in that it brought a lot of other people enjoyment. And I can now sympathize with everyone who’s ever had a thrown back. I told all of my classes that I had gikkurigoshi, and that I don’t recommend it, and I asked them all if they’ve ever had it, and they were like.. no. Which I’ve also done recently with my frostbite, because yes, I’ve gotten frostbite.

Winter is here in Kumamoto. The season has been here for a while now, since early, mid-November you could say that the season had really begun to shift. It’s very interesting how our bodies respond to the shift. For me, personally, I’ve noticed that I hardly play piano anymore, I read much more, and I eat less. The eating thing is also partially because I made a conscious decision to lose some of this chub I’ve acquired, and because I’ve found that fasting gives me a little bit of a cognitive boost, and I’m exploring what that’s all about. Winter in Kumamoto is interesting. Kumamoto is at about the same latitude as Los Angeles or San Francisco (just glancing at my trusty Google Maps). It has a warm and temperate climate. Actually a website has told me that it is most similar to North Carolina. Right now, there are still many flowers in bloom, although it has gotten significantly colder in the past week or so. The sun sets earlier and earlier, and is now setting at around 5 o’clock, which is damn early. I don’t like this season, but there is one thing about it that almost makes it all worth it, and that is the sunsets. The dusk sky here is absolutely incredible. Almost every night I’m thinking to myself, my god this is the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen. It really is that beautiful. The palette of colors is just unbelievable, every shade of pink and red and orange and yellow and purple and blue and light blue that you could imagine. My pictures never do it justice. It does make me think that we are really missing out on something by not being able to see the full, raw majesty of the night sky, every night. I have seen the night sky in its full beauty once, and I still think about it. I wonder how that would change us as people, if we could look on that every night, once again. I am really serious about that. When I look at that setting sun, and the way it paints the entire sky in this incredible array of colors, I feel comforted, and small, in a good way, like there are things in this universe that are just bigger and more beautiful than me.

Then, later in the night, I check my phone, thinking it must be about nine o’clock, and it’s only six thirty, and I think, wow, this is just terrible.

Another thing I wanted to get at about differences in winter in Kumamoto and Indiana, is the way that the people deal with it. Winter in Kumamoto is not that bad. It only snowed a few times last year, and it never stuck. There are no icy roads, there’s no snow days, or closures due to dangerously low temperatures. Now, combine that with the Japanese spirit of gaman (endurance), or ganbaru (perseverance, fighting, I mentioned before) and you will not be surprised by what I am about to say, which is that when it comes to the winter there is a great deal of just, endurance. The insulation in my apartment is horrible. The schools are not heated, usually. The girls are still wearing skirts. They actually are required to wear skirts until December. Meanwhile, I’m wearing my Uniqlo heat-tech thermal underwear, and my sweater, and sometimes my coat. Everywhere is colder than it usually is, because the windows are all wide open, to bring in the fresh air, a preventative measure against corona. I sit right by a window, at Shoyo, and all day yesterday, as I sat at my desk, I was having a nice, comforting, frigid winter breeze blow over me. And also, from yesterday, I can give you a great example of this spirit of endurance, which is, from this example, perhaps indoctrinated into the students while they’re in school. Yesterday was the Shoyo high school’s culture festival, and for that, we gathered all the students, and sat them down on the gym floor, in front of a screen, to watch recorded performances, for almost two hours. All of the doors and windows are open. The gym floor is ice cold. It is a cold day. And all of the students are sitting there, on that ice cold floor, in their thin ankle socks, and the girls in their skirts. And here I am in all my cold-gear, and I’m still cold. And everyone is saying, samui! samui! (It’s cold!) We’re all in agreement about this fact. And I’m watching them, sitting there, shivering, reminding me of my recent experience with a cold gym floor, and I’m thinking.. why are we doing this? What is the point of this? There is a better way.

So I tell you this, so that you can see that while winter in Kumamoto is not as cold, and does not have the same problems, it is still winter, with it’s early darkness, and bearing the cold, and waiting it out. And, with the way things are here, you may find it easier to understand how I’ve been able to get frostbite, here, and have never had it once in Indiana, where the winters are much harsher.

The frostbite story is basically this – at the beginning of this week, my left foot started getting itchy. On Tuesday, it was bad enough that I noticed it, and thought about it, several times in the day, and would wiggle my toes around, but not to the point where I had to scratch it, or thought much about it, as in that there could be something actually wrong. On Wednesday, however, it reached the point where my entire concentration would be disrupted, by the severe itchiness, and at one point I thought, actually, what the hell is going on down there, and so sitting at my desk, I took off my shoe, and sock, and took a good look at my foot. I noticed that my toes were red, shiny, and just the slightest bit inflamed. With the amazing power of the internet, I had a potential answer in less than two minutes – I just searched, “itchy toes in winter” and I found what appeared to be my problem. At least, the toes in the pictures I was looking at were perfectly identical to the toes that were attached to my feet, and so I thought, this seems to be it. However, genius google said that my problem was chilblains, which I’m not sure if is exactly frostbite, or a symptom of it, but either way, it sounded like something that happened to people hundreds of years ago, living in wooden homes, or adventurers out in the arctic, or mountain climbers, and not to an English teacher in Kumamoto, who has lived in a much colder place, and has never had it before. So, one of the perks of working at a school, I walked right downstairs, and asked the nurse about it. She took a look at it, and she said, do you know about shimoyake? And I said, no. And she went over to the computer and typed it in, and she said, “Furosutobaito.” (Frostbite.) And that was it. She gave me some magic cream, which really helped, and she told me to go buy a pair of slippers, because my apartment was too cold, and my feet were too cold. And I was quite surprised, because I didn’t think it was that cold in my apartment, to the point where I’d be getting frostbite, because you know, I still associate that with snow, and ice, and mountains, and such things, but that night when I got back to the apartment, I realized just how damn cold my floor really was, and that my poor feet really must have been frozen, and have been freezing. And I promptly bought a pair of slippers, and when I take them off I’m struck again by how cold the floor is.

I again told all of my classes about this. It went the same way as my gikkurigoshi story. Recently I’ve gotten shimoyake. Or, in English, frostbite. Have you ever gotten frostbite? And they all just look at me like, no, Steven sensei, and what are you doing in your life, that you’re having all these problems?

To me, chilblains just sounds like a word out of a totally different era. I’ve never heard that word before. I’ve never heard of anyone having it. It comes from a time when people put coal in their furnace, or had milk delivered to their door in bottles, or rode a carriage to town. I do feel kind of special for having had it, now.

I know I’m writing a lot here, and I’m not sure if this is all that interesting to you. This will be the last thing I write, for this post, and maybe it will be interesting, but please don’t judge me too much, for this, because I’m going to tell you this in confidence.

On Friday, I was at Shoyo, and I was talking to my friend, Hiroyuki sensei, who is a geography teacher, a young buck, who will be going to teach in Tokyo after this year. He is slender, likes English, has large glasses, and is always teaching me interesting things, and we both like history, so we have good conversations. He is very cat-like, to me, and it’s hard for me to offer a lot of concrete examples of what I mean, here, but you know what cats are like, so just imagine that Hiroyuki sensei is kind of like that. He approaches my desk in the way that a cat might approach you when you’re out and about, one that wants pets, but is alright if it doesn’t get them, or one that is just curious in you, and is coming up to get a better look, and may want to be petted, if it likes what it sees, or if you’re interested, in giving it a pet. Not that Hiroyuki sensei is wanting to be petted, but, you know what I mean. He is cat-like, alright? Anyways, I was talking to him about some Japanese authors, and why Japanese commit seppuku (an honor suicide through stabbing oneself through the stomach with a short sword and then being decapitated), and then Japanese suicides in general, and he was telling me about Kawabata Yasunari, a Noble Prize winning Japanese author, who tried to commit suicide three times, succeeding on the third time, and how in one of his interviews, he made the interviewer cry just by staring at her. Which is when I learned the word, 目力 (mejikara), literally meaning “eye power.” The next day I asked Goto sensei about this story, and she told me that, apparently he stared at her for about thirty minutes, without talking, and then she finally broke down crying. So, it goes without saying, I’d like to read some of his work.

But, in a lull in our conversation, and Hiroyuki sensei is wondering if he should get on with his business, or let me get on with mine, it strikes me to tell him something. I say to him, Hiroyuki sensei, I have a secret. And he goes, oh. I know I can trust him with this secret, and so I tell him, that I’ve been wearing the exact same clothes every day this week (it was Friday). He laughs, and offers some surprise, but mostly interest. I tell him a lot of strange things, so I think he isn’t all that surprised by what comes out of my mouth anymore. I told him about how I don’t really have a lot of clothes, especially warm clothes, and that now that it’s winter, my clothes don’t dry in a day, so I can’t just wash them at night and wear them the next day, and how my suit has gotten a little too small, and how I can pull this off because there are no days where I go to the same school two days in a row, and so I have now found myself wearing the same pair of clothes every day. And he offered that, because it’s winter, we’re also not really sweating, so you don’t smell bad, and I agreed. And then he asked me, what are you going to wear tomorrow? Which is exactly what I had been thinking about earlier that day, because that did present a little bit of a problem, as I would be coming to Shoyo two days in a row, and then it’d be a little risky to wear the exact same pair of clothes to the same school, and so I did have to make a change, somehow. And I ended up wearing jeans, which was the first time I’ve worn jeans to the school, but it was a special day, and they were nice jeans, and so it went well. But that got me thinking, as well as a recent conversation with my mom, who was horrified by this story, that I should probably buy a few more clothes. And that is my goal for today. But, as a final bit, I’d like to explain why it is that I don’t have many clothes, because you might think, like my mom, that I don’t care about my appearance, but that’s not true, because I do. I’m actually very conflicted about clothes, and the wearing of clothes, and so this has become somewhat of a confusing issue for me, and has lead to some paralysis, I would say, on the issue. I seem to be able to come up with points arguing for and against the necessity of clothes, and I go down a path that ends up leaving me with no answers. For example – frugality is a virtue. It is good not to be wasteful. And it is good not to have more than you need. Right? To only buy what you need, or what will really benefit you. I think about that, and I try to live that out, although I think I could be doing a much better job of it. So, I have to ask myself the question, do I need new clothes? And that’s actually a tricky question to answer. You can see that I can wear the same clothes every day, and get away with it, although I might totally be an idiot here, and everyone has noticed that I am in fact wearing the same clothes each day. But then, is there anything wrong with that? Inherently? No, right? I don’t smell. They’re clean. I look presentable. They’re nice clothes. So, why should I change them every day? Now, here we get into the realm of, it’s for the people, to keep up a good impression. I don’t want anyone to think I’m sloppy, or that I don’t care about my appearance, or whatever judgement they may draw from this. So, clothing is certainly important, in striking a good impression others. But, at the same time, how good is it to judge another based on their clothes? How good is it to judge others based on their physical appearances at all, for that matter? I think it is true that you can make inferences about someone based on their physical characteristics, but those inferences may turn out to be totally false, and so in that case, is this a good habit? Now, reasonably, most people probably do not go so far to assess whether their impressions of another based on their physical characteristics are accurate ones or not, and that would really be impossible to do with everyone anyway. You meet so many people, and some meetings are so brief, and it is important to be able to make judgements, to navigate through the incredible amount of information that we’re trying to process at any given moment, and you have to have something to go off of, and many of your judgements are subconscious anyway, and can’t even be really scrutinized, not readily. So then, it is good to dress in a way that you you maximize that chance that someone will have a good impression of you, because, it’s just smart. But, at the same time, if we only judge based on what we see on the surface, we may judge incorrectly. I suppose that I don’t want to fall into any habit of thinking that someone is in any way superior to another just by the way of their appearance. So this is one thing that I think about, when I think about clothing, along with whether or not I even really need the clothing.

I would also touch on that everyone, or almost everyone, must feel good when they wear new clothes, that make them feel sexy, and confident. And of course, those are good things. And humans have been dressing themselves for a long time, and appearances are important in signaling your status, and health, your good genes, really. But, is confidence inspired through clothing, true confidence? Is it well-placed confidence? What has really changed about you, except that you now are going to be perceived as being more attractive, or say, more successful, or however you will be perceived, or however you think you will be, because I suppose what matters more is how you think you’ll be perceived, rather than how you are, in terms of self-confidence. You see what I mean, right? Is confidence based in clothing any kind of true confidence? What would happen to you if your head was shaved and you were dressed in rags? Would you be able to carry yourself with the same dignity? But inside, you are the same person, are you not? So I don’t how I should feel about buying new clothes just to look good. Now, that is the more detached way of looking at it, or, non-emotional, and it doesn’t do anything to change the fact that I feel fresh when I get a good haircut, when I swap out my shoes for ones that I think are cooler. And, I wouldn’t go as far as to say that anyone should feel guilty, or shouldn’t feel confident in their new clothes either. And I do think that dressing is a form of expression, and that is a way to show some personal style, artistry. I guess, looking at it from that standpoint, of self-expression, then it becomes something more.

So, I think about these things, and don’t come to any definite conclusions, and this is before I’ve even set out to buy new clothes. Now let’s say that I’ve decided to get some new clothes, because I want to change the way other people think about me, strike them in a different way, perhaps change the way I feel about myself, shake up my image. I know you can say that it’s just fun to buy clothes, too, but that can be a double edged sword, right. Now actually, before we buy the clothes, there is something else to consider about needing new clothes and about deciding if you really need new clothes. When you get clothes, they have to come from somewhere. The material has to be grown, or made. That takes a field, or a factory. Someone has to put your clothes together. Who is that someone? What kind of wages are they getting? What kind of rights do they have, as a worker? What are their working conditions? Are the clothes you’re buying perpetuating a cycle of suffering, or are they elevating someone out of poverty, giving them economic opportunity? This is thinking about the person – then, think about the planet. How much of an environmental cost went into making this product? What kind of land was cleared for the field for the material? Or for the factory? What volume of greenhouse gases were emitted in the act of bringing this product, and all the different pieces of it, all of the steps that were required to assemble it, to you? Is it worth it, then, for you to buy it? Are you doing net good, or net bad, with this purchase?

Should you buy secondhand? You can circumvent all of these considerations when you buy secondhand. But, what if I don’t want the secondhand? Or, it takes too much time? It’s hit or miss, right? Or what I want is something I just can’t find at a secondhand store? Well, you can still buy something new, but it has to be done with care, doesn’t it?

So, it’s much easier to avoid doing any harm, or headache, for me, by not buying. If we had organizations, government bodies, responsible companies, that we could trust were being fair to the worker, were supporting environmentally responsible practices, materials, etc., then it’d be much easier to buy new things. (I know they’re out there, those companies, and I mean to do some research, but for these companies you probably have to buy online to get their products, and then you can’t try the clothes on, or if they don’t fit you have to send them back, a whole other can of worms.) If the transport chain wasn’t helping to destroy the earth. If my buying these things is also my buying into a culture that tells me that I need more to keep up cultural or societal norms, a culture that is complicated and that I am still not sure about, but am learning more towards, it’s not a good one. In one of my school’s English textbooks, I was reading about the lives of Japanese people living during the Edo period. I believe it was the Edo period. 1603-1868. Edo is the old name for Tokyo, also, fun fact. It was a period of time where people made use of every little thing that they had. People repaired broken things. People reused, recycled, their food waste, their old tatami mats, even their poop. Actually, their poop was regarded as highly valuable, because it was some of the best fertilizer. I think about that, and then I think about how, when I was a substitute teacher, I would watch a third of the kids in a class throw away their breakfast without touching it. A sugary, crap breakfast, made with plastic. I think about how, when I used to work at Menards, I watched them throw away bags of dog food, door locks, mattresses that might have been used once, just because the packaging was damaged, or it wasn’t new, and the employees couldn’t take it (policy), and the store could write any such good off with the distributor, without considering it a loss. I think about how our wanton use of fertilizers has led to massive algal blooms, that consume all oxygen in the shore waters, and lead to massive die-offs of ocean life, and we are not immune either, as the poisons infiltrate the food chain, our water supply, and end up tucked away, nice and safe in the recesses of our bodies, where they can wreck our sperm counts, cause cancer, and deform newborns. I am all for progress, but I want responsible progress. I don’t want to contribute to, to be a part of a culture that so shamelessly and recklessly wastes, poisons, and destroys.

I think about all of this, and then it becomes very hard for me to want to buy anything, beyond what I really need. I wish it was easier to do this, but this culture is kind of a core feature of the systems that are essential to our lives. When I buy my groceries at the store, I take my avocados as they are, I don’t put them in a plastic bag. If I go through the cashier-assisted checkout, they’ll put my avocados in a small plastic bag, if I don’t stop them. Why do they do that? There’s no point to it.

I guess we’ve just totally perverted things. Our way of living is totally out of balance with the natural world. I know that you could consider humans a product of the natural world, and so by extension, it’s impossible for us to do anything that isn’t natural. It’s all natural. So maybe, a better word to use isn’t natural, but healthy. And thinking not just in terms of human health, but in terms of planetary healthy, ecological health. And to think that our health is not tied to the health of the natural systems that we live in, is hubris, right? I’m thinking back to how we can’t see the stars at night. What are we sacrificing in the sake of progress? In the sake of convenience?

I will be thinking about all of this when I go out to buy clothes today. I now have talked myself out of what little desire to do this I had – but the thought of another week of wearing the same outfit is driving me onwards. If you have any thoughts about these issues, because I’m sure I’m not alone in thinking like this, please comment or say something to me. Anything that strikes you or you’d like to bring up.

Anyways, that’s my little Sunday post. I really have to get going on. It is a really beautiful day today. I was just talking about my frostbite, but’s warm enough today that you could almost get away with being out in a t-shirt. At least, I’m sitting outside in a flannel and jeans and feeling a bit warm. There probably won’t be many more days like this until the spring, soon.

I will leave you with this promise – the next post, I am going to tell you the bowl story. Yes, I really will. Whether you’re tired of me talking about it or not, I have to make this promise, for both of us. So I will. Until then!

UPDATE: I went shopping. I bought two pairs of socks. Made in Japan. I found a shirt that I really liked. 100% wool. Made in China. I didn’t buy it. I met one of my English club girls, Green peas, as I was leaving. She’s cute, always laughing. She tried to get me to speak Japanese with her, I wouldn’t do it. They don’t have many opportunities to speak English with a native English speaker, and I’m going to make sure they do it. Also, it’s fun for me to play dumb.